End result, seriously professional looking tool holders. Nicely done. No lathe in my shop, unfortunately, otherwise I'd have to be building a set of my own.
Love it......you are an inspiration for others....next up on my list is a Precision Matthews Lathe and also a PM milling machine.....10/10. Regards. Rich...UK.
Very nicely done. What thread pitch did you use for set screws? I think the piston type tool post is not the best design. If your cutting tool bits are optimal size the piston ideally will be pushing in the center of the tool holder to lock it in place but what if you have variety of tool bits range in size from 1/4 to 1/2" like I do? You need to adjust the height and now the piston is pressing somewhere in the top or the bottom of tool holder which is uneven pressure. I think I am going to save money and get wedge type tool post and make tool holders myself like you did.
Nice job on the tool holders! I particularly appreciate you showing all the steps--often the machinist gurus assume we don't want to see that "boring" stuff and leave it out. I, for one, then don't know what it really looks like or how long it might take to do it.Thank you!
Hey man that stock will not be square doing it that way. You need to have a floating lead Edge after you square off one at you place that to the back of the vise and then to float the front edge put a piece of brass brazing rod in between the front edge and the Vise Jaw that way it will bring the top into perfect square you keep doing that and then flip it over to do the opposite side. It's hard to describe how to do this I believe there's probably a lot of videos about doing this. But when you clamp something up in a vice you're transferring it's out of square surfaces to the one you're cutting.
Those tool holders, and the post both came out beautifully. Also, i'm new-ish to machining and never thought to align your cutting point with a center in the tailstock, so thanks for teaching me that. I usually get my turning tool aligned by eye (with skim cut), then scribe a line with it to align the others.
Oh !! Good Job are you doing In the past i have an problem with my wobbling Toolpost, and i am very agree off tem So i make the same as You with max 1/100 gap and i am very Happy.
Good stuff. Advice from experience, never cut both sides of a dovetail at once if you can keep from it, use plenty of coolant or cutting fluid and use an insert tool if you can get one (pricey unless you know you’re going to cut a lot of dovetails in the future). You did a great job as is so feel free to ignore me completely. 😁 Edit: I love that you layout your geometry before trusting the computer.
Impressive and inspiring work. I really like that you left your mistakes in the video - helps those of us who are starting out realize that everyone makes them :) Keep up the great work, looking forward to more videos!
Good work, which is the material you used in the middle of quick change tool? It seem that is steel but you used some parts in aluminium and I have a doubt about this...
To saw off stock I can recommend the carbide cold cut circular saws over band saws. They are faster, much less bulky with the same capacity and cheaper. The carbide tips will strip if the work twists during the cut. So clamp it down securely.
Just buying a wedge type tool post would have been a better solution. Piston type post will dive when taking heavy cut due to the gap in the dovetail. Wedge type not so much as the dovetail area is filled by the wedge. Much like locking a slide via the gib when maximum rigidity is required.
Mm yes thanks that is a bit expensive for inferior quality plus the OZZI dollars is only 70 us at least they were a good template again Chris a Great job well done l wish I had a mill.cheers Keith.
I've watched this a few times now, I see how the pins are pushed out by the cam, but once you pull the handle and lock in the tool holder to the tool post, what mechanism keeps the entire unit from twisting left or right? If there were two handles, one for the cam that pushes the pins out, and the other that screws down the center bolt. How does the center bolt lock down at the same time the cam is locked?
Chris, I'm late to the game here but watched with great interest thinking, I need to make some of these. I use BXA holders so I started pricing normalized 4140 flat bar for 5 holders, WOW! Then I have to machine it, harden it, blue it, maybe grind it. There's something to be said for DYI but how far does one go? I can buy BXA #1 holders, made in USA (CA), hardened and ground, for less then $20 each to my door. No way I can make them for that. The cost of 4140 is outrageous. My local suppliers only have it in 1" thickness. Shipping makes online prohibitive. Life sucks. Oh, loved what you did here.
Den blöden Hebel oben habe ich abgebaut der wurde irgendwann krumm und fiel dann ab. Hab mir die obere Etage auf eine Schlüsselweite 27 gefräst und kann seitdem ordentlich anziehen.
gh778jk Haha, the music has gotten better over the months. It's very difficult to get music that won't get your videos taken down automatically by RU-vid's ContentID filters. :-/
The fundamental mechanical design of this type of tool post is very sound: Female dove tail in the tool holder, and male dove tail on the tool post. Some very high end manufacturers reverse this arrangement, making it a less rigid design. The only thing open to criticism is the holder's clamping arrangement; which pushes the holder out and away from the post's largest locating surfaces, putting the dove tails under tension. From a stress and accuracy point of view this arrangement is not desirable. A better arrangement is the sliding wedge type, but is much more difficult to produce in the home work shop. An alternate, and most satisfactory arrangement is to provide for a finger clamp that pushes against the rear inner dove tail surface of the tool holder. This would pull the holder tightly into the front dovetail slot, bearing on the wide and angled surfaces. The tool holder is also forced tightly against the large rear locating surface, making for a very rigid and accurate/repeatable assembly. Another improvement is to put a thin roller bearing thrust washer under the head of the post's clamping bolt, bearing on the top surface of the post. This reduces the likelihood of the post's turning while tightening this bolt. It also reduces the required tightening torque on this bolt (or nut) tremendously! One more improvement is to use 1/4-20UNC square headed set screws for tool clamping, thus eliminating picking swarf from the screw sockets. Strangely I found this little task particularly irritating. I've built such a tool post which has been in use for 30 years now.
I understand what you are suggesting, however it makes a certain amount of sense, at least to me to leave that operation till the time you decide what sort of tools you are going to mount in the holders. Hope that makes sense. I have just come in from my shed, I spent the day making holders for the QCTP I have just completed for my Lathe. They are all without final machining until I work out the tool I most need. Then I can machine to suit. Just my thoughts. Cheers from John, Australia.
Nice work Chris. is that for a Chinese mini lathe? I too had a band saw problem so I got a used Milwaukee portaband and am working on a stand for it. They are good for small stuff 5x5 is the area of cut. Guess that will be next project. Thanks for vid
Grab one of the Grizzly dial-type height gauges, as they are quite affordable. Or if you want an American-made one, they seem to come up quite frequently on the Facebook Home Machine Shop groups' pages.
+ac3r787 The plans are available online for free here: www.wilmontgrinders.com/Pages/EERFGrinder.aspx Or you can buy a kit from Polarbearforge like I did for less than what a local shop with a water jet would charge me JUST to cut it out; I'd still have to buy the steel. www.polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit_order.html
Ahh the endless cycle of upgrading your toolholders because your current ones can't handle your lathe, just to upgrade your lathe because now your toolholders is handling it no probelm.
Okay so you copied the old QTPC and you made a great work...but.. There are two systems of QCTPs the ones that push the holder away from the main body and second the ones that hold him towards the main body to clamp him like Multifix and all the pro' s ones...the second ones have the best repeatability... If you think about it at the first way forces work all on the one stud behind the holder he can be as strong as he wants on the second way the forces divide on the whole main body and that's where good rigidity comes from. I was in the same situation as you i bought the aluminum one and wanted to make a steel one... but a buddy hes a professional explained me the difference... There are several free plans on the internet of QTPC working with clamping the holder towards the main body.. Always look when you see a QTPC which system he has and then you know how good his repeatability will be.. I ended up buying a Multifix from Germany... But..there are also good ones with dovetails... As long as you work with the mini lathe the forces are normally not that strong and this system could be enough especially when repeatability isn't so important for the things you do. Nevertheless good work dude...
