For those that might be wondering, this type of system would work well at a miter saw station also, I just don't have the right setup at my miter saw to show you.
It does for sure. We use this method at the miter saw station all the time to cut our face frames for cabinets. We set the saw once to overall width of frame and use actual drop pieces of the stiles and the rails to space in between. Works great. Thanks for sharing
Heh glad you said that because as you were setting up the table saw I was thinking how could I do this on my Kreg ACS and then it hit me... just do the same thing with a stop set to 6" and the two spacers at the miter saw! Good stuff.
I'm surprised how you make anything with that funny, wierd ant totaly not precise metric system! Three eights of inch!? I just imagining mesuring surfaces with big math calculation!
For those of us that do not have a perfectly zeroed table saw,: Get two blocks that are each a little smaller than the inner width of the box, hold them together so they span the inner distance, clamp them together, then use it as a spacer between the fence and the saw blade.
I would like you to demonstrate the correct setup for doing this at your miter station. I don’t want to give you the "big head" or anything but this suggestion as well as several other recent videos are pure genius. You are an amazing asset to our community. Thanks and I look forward to more.
Very nice, thanks for sharing. I think it was Norm Abram who said "theres a construction rule that says measure twice, cut once. The woodworking rule is dont measure unless you have to."
This is the way I do when building my stuff. I would add that you can use the box itself to set the fence from the blade. That way even if your fence scale is not calibrated precisely, it will still work. Thanks for your usual to-the-point video.
@@launchpadw9379 Put the box plus two scrap pieces against the fence. Push the whole lot up flush to the blade and lock the fence. Remove the box and clamp the two scrap pieces against the fence
Great video! To completely eliminate the need for a ruler, you can bring the box to the table saw and use it to set the fence location. Just place the box next to the blade and adjust the fence to be snug next to the box. Then, once the fence is set, clamp the two pieces of wood to the fence as this video showed.
I gotta say this, Jody, you are a maestro at showing ways to... "Think Outside The Box!" I've been butchering wood for damn near seventy years now, and I've learned more from you in the short time I've subscribed to your channel.... Thank you, my friend..........
lol, pretty much every other channel keeps telling me to "like and subscribe" ... and your channel I subscribed to ... not because you told me, but because the content is so good. Also signed up to your patreon as a thanks for the content! Cheers
Thank you sir, I worked in commercial construction for 40+ years and struggled with this issue many times.. Would have been nice to learn this way back then..
I was taught that over 50 years ago. Works every time. Wish RU-vid was around then, watching videos like this brings back information that was forgotten. Not everyone knows all the tricks and people like you put that information out there.
Thanks for the tip. Dimensional lumber is usually cut pretty close to the size labeled, plywood, not so much, so it’s best to use this method to measure when using certain materials.
I don't understand where this dumb myth originated in USA. For a country which invented the internet and all kinds of technologies the people there are unable to look beyond their nose. Most industrial manufacturing happens with the metric system. As does plywood. Plywood comes in 18mm Or 19mm thickness. The 19mm plywood is more popular. For gods sake take out your calipers and check the thickness of your plywood before mouthing off lame myths.
If the most accurate scale to measure is tipped, even a little, the angle of that ruler must be included in calculations. Measuring using your method is an easier way, that seems to be most accurate. Thanks for your video.
This makes so much sense, so easily, that I feel a bit stupid for not thinking of it myself. Thank you for posting! I learned something very useful right here.
Super. So, even if my saw was not as tuned as yours, I could set my distance by placing the width between the raised blade. Then add the two scrap side material like you did. That is so cool. Thanks. Be Well and Good Journey Richie
Great technique. I have found myself with a piece of wood that is just a bit short, even after spending more time than necessary with measurements. Me and math disagree often. Thanks for helping me remove the math.
Another way is to use a really sharp pencil, and trace the inside dimension onto the materiel you're cutting. Then you can dial that in for a perfect fit by making incremental cuts, closer and closer to the line. Takes a bit, but it works.
A even better way to ensure your inside piece fits its to use a making knife to mark it directly from your box onto the piece you are cutting. This eliminates ALL measurement errors. And the knife line is more accurate than a pencil line.
Your solution is a very good one. Just a couple notes about measuring for your viewers. A tape measure should measure accurately both push and pull. That is why the end it loose - it compensates for the thickness of the hook. In order to make sure you get accurate measurements with a tape measure don't use the hook at all. Start your measure from one inch and use the tape lines. Don't forget to subtract one inch from your measurement.
Julie, I worked in a cabinet shop in the late 70's, and every Monday morning the foreman religiously had everyone check their tapes against the shop ruler and adjust them if needed. The hook tab at the end of the tape can be bent to adjust its overall length for accuracy. But most, if not all, tapes don’t provide a way to adjust for and changes due to wear or damage in the length of the slot that the hook tab slides in. This slot compensates for the thickness of the hook tab when changing between inside and outside measurements. Because of this, care should always be taken when closing a tape to insure it doesn’t slam against the hook tab which will eventually elongate the slot. You can adjust the hook tab to compensate for it on the inside or outside measurement, but not both. You probably know this, but some might not. 😉
I have used what I call a dead block attached to my fence short of the saw blade so I could get the right size cut and to be able to use my miter square but never thought of what you just showed. Glad I watched.. !!!
Great technique, will definitely try that out next time. Now there is only one measure needed >> set the table saw to the desired width. Means if the box or inside piece doesn't come out where it should be the table saw needs tuning ... or upgraded. ;)
I would just set the fence once (for the length of the sides, then use the spacers as you show. One setting, perfect fit. For the inside parts, just use 4 spacers from the outside measurement.
Ha! , , , ‘Typically, I found this too late, otherwise my averagely finished little box project would’ve been at another level! Strange how the tiniest errors magnify and leap out at you- my old carpentry teacher used to say “You may have the biggest nose in the world- but if you have a tiny pimple on it, that’s what people notice!” - I think I’m going to revisit my boxes! As ever, great vid, thanks Jody 👍