Our friend Gregory Paolini gives us a walk-through of a raised panel made on the SawStop table saw. This video was created for SawStop's friends and fans on Facebook. Follow us on / sawstop . Learn more on www.sawstop.com.
I watched this before I made eight doors for some built-in's, and found that I used all your advice and tricks. Really appreciate the great video, quality work.
From the video vault: Our friend Gregory Paolini gives us a walk-through of a raised panel made on the SawStop table saw. This video was created for SawStop's friends and fans on Facebook. Enjoy!
I have been making raised panels on my table saw for many years. I just use my tenoning jig which has all the ability to create a bevel on the panel and your hands are away from the blade. Much simpler and I don't have to waste my time building another jig that I do not have room to store in the shop.
Thanks for the awesome video, as well as excellent use of SAFETY! Now I know exactly how I am going to give my kitchen a "facelift" with new doors. Thanks!
thank you very much. yes i did some sanding and it came out fine however my problem was the thick blade and it wasn't that sharp. on my second raised panel i had a new thin kerf blade and it was perfect.
From the Video Vault: Our friend Gregory Paolini gives us a walk-through of a raised panel made on the SawStop table saw. This video was created for SawStop's friends and fans.
Great! Got several good ideas from this video. I will now use MDF for my paint-grade panels instead of the much more expensive pine. And I love the fence jig that he uses for the panel cuts, which will also work well for the mortise and tenon cuts.
I know Im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account? I was stupid forgot the login password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me
@Maximo Briggs Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
I have a question,,maybe one of you more experienced woodworkers can answer; I made a few raised panels this way, using just a table saw. But I do not know how to figure out ,how I determine the "border of the field" or center area.. around the 1:30 time mark, he describes it.But i wasnt sure why he chose 2 inches in, is that a standard measurement? or is it based on the panel size he is using.? THANKS in advance guys.
Very clear video. I have one question though. The panel edges are 3/16" per your video. What is the size of the grooves in the frames so that fits nicely with the panel?
Would love one of those saws, just isn't in a disabled cops budget. I will give hints at Christmas though. Thanks for the video on how to make the raised panel, I am working on some cabinets and today is raised panel youtube day.
I have a SS Tablwsaw (contractor Model with 52" Fence) and would like your recommendation on Getting the Overhead Blade Guard/Dust Collector Arm from SS or the After Market, or not at all. MY MAIN OBJECTIVE IS THE SAFETY ASPECT OF GUARD, DUST COLLECTION IS SECONDARY.
Tired of silly comments made by naysayers, let’s see your videos? The fellow is putting out a free professional educational video and gets criticized by idiots. Been woodworking for 37 years, excellent video all around.
Does the SawStop machine have a capacity not to shorten or lengthen the board length when you change the blade tilt slightly? My old Delta Rockwell would change the board length when you changed the tilt of the blade and I would have to go back and test the cut to arrive at same board length. This would have changed the thickness of the raised panel in the dado of the rail and style you are cutting and introduce a poor fit in that dado. Some Euro saws keep the same length of board with changes in blade tilt. If tilt changes fence to blade distance then the SawStop is like an old design with a finger sensor added. I believe it goes back to the trunnion design which can allow the blade tilt to not affect the cut length
Thank you for the question. Our saws are designed in a way that no adjustments or compensation needs made for cuts at various angles. Just tilt the blade and cut.
Just want to say I watched several videos scattered over youtube and your demonstration put it all together. Just two questions. 1. Is there a standard depth for the grooves in the rails and stiles . 2 Is the 10 degree angle carved in stone? Some other videos said to use 15 degrees. I used the 10 degree you said and it came out perfect, but I just am curious. Thanks for your information.
Hi, can I ask maybe a stupid question, I’m about to build a work shop for myself at home now I have some space. My question is- why do people position their table saw in the middle of the room? Isn’t it better placed off to one side as the fence will only go as far as the end of the table?? Cheers
It's been a while since this video was made, but I will answer from my shop. I have my saw in the middle mainly because most of my long stock is cut down before it makes to the table saw. ie Like in half or on my miter saw. Hope that helps.
You want plenty of space around your table saw. If you want the most out of your saw, you will want 8' on either side of your blade. Table saws only bevels in one direction. You also need room in case the wood you are cutting binds and kicks back. Miter saws, jointers that don't need the room in back of the machine go against the wall. Also you need to think about placement. Which saws will you use first, second, etc. Place them accordingly to save as much time as you can.
Very good video. I too have a question. The doors I am trying to make have raised panels on both sides, do you have a video for that? This is a standard 6 panel door. The ones I have a hollow,, very flimsy and my dogs, have made them walk through doors, they torn them to pieces so that is why I am trying to make them out of solid wood.
Make 2 raised panels, as shown in the video, then glue the resulting panels together or add a middle layer if necessary to bulk the panel up to the desired thickess
You need to check your blade to make sure it's razor sharp. Also, thin kerf blades reduce the amount of burn you get when cutting at angles. Finally, with it being awkward cutting tall pieces on the saw, make sure you are moving it through the blade quick enough. Even though it's awkward, you still have to move it through at normal speeds. However, SOME sanding is inevitable...especially on the end grain. Good luck mate!
Nice. I like the idea, for those without the resources. Yet, any established wood shop should already have a shaper to perform these raised panels. I'm a weekend warrior myself and I have a shaper and 1/2" shank bits that tear up this kinda job. You look to have a serious shop and I don't. Think about dropping $500 and expanding your shops' ability.
am I the only one who thinks the push blocks are totally useless in this case? Hands are super far from the blade, no way you can hurt yourself unless you are drunk
I understand the need to teach hand safety by pushing the wood through with the paddles...... but you payed $5000 for a saw stop you should be able to push that board through with a new born puppy without fear of a cut......
While I agree you shouldn't be as concerned about getting a cut, I would be very concerned about wrecking my blade and having to buy a new brake. That's some serious money being paid out for being careless.
Very informative video. However, it would have been easier on the ears if you did the video on a Sunday when you can cut out all of the other work going on in the background.
raised panels are ugly as shit, every freakn door made in north america is a raised panel of some sort. come up with some different design people, this is no longer 1973.
