Making Raised Panel Doors The Easy Way 

I used to work in a cabinet shop. This guy knows what he is doing. His attention to detail is awesome.

The little tips like the jointer pass and not ripping your parts until after applying the profiles are amazing.

This is an excellent demonstration and thank you for thorough explanation step by step. Absolutely love this !!!!

Great example of craftsmanship,a joy to watch.

Thank you for sharing your expertise!!!! I'm making my first set of raised panel doors. You video has brought up some ideas. Hopefully mine will be as easy as yours!!! Thanks again!!!

I feel like every time I was one of your videos its like my grandpa sharing his wisdom, I appreciate it very much.

I have been looking at videos all over the place to learn how to build cabinet doors (and other stuff, of course). This is *by far* the best method of making doors, with clearly the best tips on making better doors.

Been working in a cabinet shop for a little over a month now - was supposed to be doing real estate appraising but there is no work right now, so a friend hooked me up - the amount of prep, wood putty, and sanding really gave me appreciation for WHY you take so many carefully planned out steps because MAN, when those doors go into someone's kitchen, it's immaculate! For the newbies like me, when you 'break an edge', one or two quick swipes with the sanding block is all you need. My first set of doors I was a bit aggressive. The other thing, you can never clamp your doors together too tightly! You'll see once that first coat of primer goes on.

Informative, clear, well explained. Calm and well paced without being condescending. If I had a father or grandfather who explained virtually every aspect of everyday living to me like this I’d be a decent, well adjusted person. Thank you SO much for this!

I am as new as they come to building any of this. I saw to rail and stile bits and literally was wondering what they were for. Yes. That green. Your video not only showed me what they were for the explanation of the much more stylish door was extremely helpful. You advice is very helpful also. Many videos fly through so fast, they leave me wondering "how did they do that?" Thank you Wes.

I'm interested in doing a room with raised panel wainscoting or perhaps full wall paneling. This was a wonderful introduction to that. Thank you. Subscribed.

I like the jointer tip. I’ll definitely do that on my doors.

Thanks for sharing old age and nut-shell of life long experience. I think belt /drum sander is not necessary yet it gives a smooth finish in short time ( time saver ) you are lucky to build a hightech workshop. love your work.❤

Wes your the best….I can tell your years of experience has made you a true professional….love your videos

Great technique and an excellent video, great job as always Wes!!👌👌👌👌👌👌

Saw this video after a router mishap while working on some raised panel doors(all fingers still attached, just a nice gash from my workpiece and not the bit!) moving forward I will be using this exact process! Thank you for this video! Instant subscriber! I shared with a friend and said, it's probably best to take woodworking advice from an older gentleman (read that with the utmost respect intended!) with all their fingers!!

I now wanna go get some tools and build a kitchen, great job door looks fantastic

Yup, that sander is the thing. I use a stroke sander. I super liked your video because that is a pretty cool way to make doors and panels!! Those doors you were making look exactly like the ones folks pay for when they buy high end. And from what I seen in your video, your door looks so much better!! Great Job!! Great Video!!🕶

Outstanding tutorial. Delivering in a calm steady pace, certainly made me able to catch the information in one run through. Love the router table vs. trying to sell me one. The table has plenty of "real estate" to handle pieces safely and providing stability. I seldom subscribe to channels, but did today and I will take a long look. Love the wide belt sander by the way. First one I have ever seen.

I must let you know that I learned something good from you today I was about to buy me a router table but the cost of it is so much money but when I look at your table give me an idea so thanks again for helping me save some money

Beautiful job Wes! Would like to see the next step in finishing them with paint.

That is awesome! Thanks for sharing. Be safe.

Outstanding work God continue to bless you.😅😊

Very good explanation how to make panel doors. You're a good teacher.

Amazing job. Thanks for sharing sir.

You're video was great and full of tips and tricks. Very professional and calm and easy to follow. You should include how you setup the router bit heights for the rails and stiles though. Also, I was wondering why you have a mammoth flat sander in your shop but built a stick/plywood router table.

Nice job Wes

Master i learn lots from u!! Now im doing works and make good money!! Thank u!!

Wonderful video! You are an awesome resource, thanks so much for posting and inspiring!

Great video Wes, and thumbs up for the discussion and technique! Based on my experience, I don't recommend using budget router bits, such as the Yonico. On the first pass of the third white oak panel, the Yonico ogee raised panel cutter shed one of the cutter edges with a bang. Fortunately, it didn't hurt me, but the router was immediately out of balance and shaking violently until I hit the emergency switch. The panel was ruined, but I didn't see any damage to my router or router table. I replaced the Yonico cutter with a Freud raised panel cutter and have been using it with no problems for several years.

Great Video. Just starting my first project of cabinet doors. This will be useful.

Awesome Video

Nice tips. I really like the idea of making the rails/stiles double wide (plus some) and cutting them in half after the routing is completed. As you said, easier to handle on the router table. Not sure I like the idea of wearing gloves while routing as it seams a bit risky and could get caught in the bit IMHO. I invested in a couple decent push blocks (I love the MicroJig Grr-Rip Blocks for the router and jointer).

great work

Really enjoy your videos thank you

SuperMan.Super work🎂

like that tip on running thru jointer to get better (chipless) looking edge on stile/rail thanx rick

Great job thank you for sharing that was very helpful

Great video! Thankyou.

Great explanation! 🎉

I love the idea of using carpet or floor mats to hold wood and protect underside at the same time. I experienced underside damage from small little defect in workbench so I just had put a thick towel down. this is the first video i have watched of yours and I don't know if mentioned it before. If you haven't you should in a video of little hacks /ideas like that.Could call it "Cheap over looked idea's to save time and money"

Nice job and enjoyed watching. Appreciate your sharing. Subbed.

Very good video

All the years building doors and I never thought of cutting rails and stiles double wide. I have to try that next time.

Clearly explain 💯💡👍

Great Video. You earned a sub.

A great video, I had never thought of doubling the rails so they are easier to handle on the router table; to be fair I always use feather boards. I really have mixed opinions on the router bits from Amazon though; on the one hand I can't argue with your results but on the other the set I bought went into the bin to be replaced by considerably more expensive bits from Rutlands and I have definitely had a better experience with them. I am certainly down the route of getting what you pay for, that said I still use an orbital sander from Lidl that I absolutely love after 10 years.

Wes, excellent video as always. Would it be possible to do a video on how to make your router fence. Thanks in advance.

Thanks 😊 👍

Brilliant video sir! I’ve worked site carpentry here in the UK for a few years and I noticed on one job that all the doors were developing cracks at the joints just a few weeks after being installed. I’ve never heard of those space balls before but I bet that problem was caused by something like that missing from their process. Looking to get into joinery and I’d kill to have a mentor like yourself!

Nice work Wes, could you do a shop tour sometime?

yes, this does work for me !! Thanks for the reply. Recently found out by "experimenting" that using a drawer edge bit & then, like you say, glued together. Have not tried either of these methods yet but will try. Never thought of using 5/8", will try that !!

Mr.Wes i did watched hundreds of woodworking/carpentry videos you are THE BEST so far and really enjoying how you are explaining the process of making stuffs , plus the voice when you are talking is very relaxing. One Question whic type of BITS did you buy from Amazon. Keep doing great videos Mr.Wes.

Nice!

Nice

5:40 I think an easier technique for those of us who don't own a jointer is to not make the full depth of cut on the first pass. Make the first pass about 1/32" shallower on all pieces, then follow with a final pass. Adjust the router table fence so the bearing is about 1/32" behind the fence (keeps eh cuter from cutting to the full depth). Eliminates one machine operaton. 7:50 That's a very good technique. Routing then ripping that ensures exact width of rails and stiles.

Well done Wes .I'm planning to build our new kitchen cabinets, we prefer the look of raised panel but worry they will look dated with the more popular shaker style. I wonder what your thoughts are on this? Thanks again, Jake

Great tutorial! I really enjoyed your explanation. I do have one question. I'm building a few doors and am trying to match other doors in the same room. I need to use an edge-forming ogee bit on the inside of the frame. I get how to do that on the rails but what about the styles? Thanks for any suggestions you might have.

This is helpful, I have a large project on my calendar requiring raised panels. How much thinner should the panel be then the rails and styles?

Nice video and great tips. I'm wondering why you don't have a dist collection box on the back of the fence? I have a set up similar to yours and have a box with a dust port and hose connection that i can add to the fence with clamps. Works real good. I set up my fence about a you do and I am wondering how you readjust the fence to the 1/32 of an inch??? Your table saw blade seems to be overly high. i don't have but about 1/8 of an inch out of the wood I am cutting. Just enough to clear the top of the board. I never take a full cut with any panel bit as I find that taking shallow cuts will get me a better final face and I will have less sanding to do. Have been making doors for 50 years and I always put a bit of glue in the middle of the top and bottom of the insert to keep it centered. I was taught that the panel will swell and shrink in width and this will keep the panel in the center. It has not failed me yet. Also, as long as you finish all surfaces of the door, the expanding and contracting will be to a minimum. I always put a barrier of some kind between the pipe and the wood because I have seen staining where the wood and the water from the glue will at times stain ( ever so slightly ) the wood where the pipe touches ... Wish I had, or had access, to a wide belt sander!!!

Wes I loved the video, very helpful. What was the little round sander you used on the contour of the panels after you routed the edges?

great video i make all my cabinets few years using red oak now my wife wanted to paint all cabinets white question what can i use to fill the wood grain i looks smooth before i painted thanks in advance

Mr. Wes, I am new to this. I was thinking about making the doors out of hard maple. I was told that a wider piece for the raised panel would cup. They said I would need to join 2 narrower boards to keep this from happening. Any ideas? Is there a different wood I could use for the wider panels? Thank you very much for the great video!!

Can you help me with the machine / bit used to get those panel edges done

great video. making the table and I purchased a Bosch raised panel bit. question. do you lower the speed of the router and do you take small bits to make the profile, or can you do it in one pass once the thickness is established? thanks

Wes, thanks for sharing your knowledge--you have some great tips in this video. One question: What brand and model of wide belt sander do you use in this video? Thank you!

I like the way you did this. One question, how thick is the center panel?

Question? When you ran the door through the big sander you put them in at a angle. I'm sure you do it for a purpose but was wondering what that was. I'm new to this hobby learning what I can as wood cost so darn much now I don't want to wast to much because I was stupid. LOL I have a scrap pile already big enough.

How would you clean up that edge without a jointer?

Thank you Wes. If you were building a standard shaker door would also use the router setup or would use the table saw? I got rid of my big Unisaw and my dado set to downsize and I am not convinced the contractor saw will do well with the dado set but I enjoy making cabinets and doors and the router setup might be my best option.

Thanks for the video. I am just starting out with benchtop router table and s4s from store. The s4s is not super straight, typically exhibiting a minor cup or bow. I don't have a jointer or planer. My question is should I go ahead with this mindset and continue creating these doors or is it absolutely required to get a benchtop jointer and planer? My biggest reason not getting them is that I don't want the thickness to be smaller the 3/4" stock for the doors. I also experienced kickback from the raised panel bit with backcutter on the cross grain cut and wasn't sure if that was purely due to a slight warp of the panel or due to white oak hardness.

Hi Wes, I really enjoy your videos I would like to know why you ran the raised panel door through the wide belt sander at an angle and not square?

I know this is red oak. Is this cabinet grade plywood or true oak lumber? Will plywood deliver a good finish as well?

I can’t finger out how to make my panel flush with the stile and rails. My panel is always proud.

My 1.75 horsepower router burnt out today making raised panels. Right after the first one I made. Should I upgrade to a 3.5 ?

Space Balls!!!

wes - looks like in your door glue-ups you are using shop fox 24 inch bar clamps that have a very deep throat depth (4+ inches)....the heavy duty bessey have a shallower throat depth (like 3.5 inches). does the added depth actually help, or would the bessey clamps do the trick just as well?

What kind of router are you working with Thanks for these videos they are interesting

Hi Wes, Really nice work Can you please recommend a router that I can buy that will be able to do this???

Hi, I'd like to know the name of the router bit you are using when you were making your stiles and rails (3:32) Nice and helpful video 👍

What are the names of the router bits used to make the door.

Great video, Wes! 1 question, wouldn’t it be better to sand and finish the panel’s outer edges before assembling? Otherwise, if the panel moves, it won’t show an unfinished/unsanded line…

I’m trying to match the profile of an existing drawer front. Is there an easy way to do that? Or what would be the best way to accomplish this. Thank you

would like to build cafe doors, but, with raised panels seen on both sides. I thought of using 1 1/2" stock or 5/4" with back cutter used on one side & removed for the other side. Would this work ? Any suggestions would help as I am a novice, thank you in advance.

Hello. Love your video. I need some advise. I built a cabinet using ordinary plywood, about 1/3 inch thick. It was just a big box. No shelves or anything inside. I used ordinary nails to hold them together. I used a hinge on one side to serve as the door. But over time, the sides began to curve or bend. Is there a type of wood I could use that doesnt bend or curve over time? Thanks.🙂

Damn, no dust collection? Savage

How much space to you leave for contraction and expansion for the panel? I’ve tried following Freud tool’s directions for expansion, etc.. and couldn’t get the space balls to fit on both sides...

Some great tips in here. I like the 1/32” jointer tip. Never thought of that. I’m trying that on my next doors. How do you accommodate the space balls? Do you build the doors and extra 1/16” wider or ?

please provide information on the bits to buy

Can you share the link for the bits please.

Darrel Gray Wes, great video as always!! Could you tell me the name and model number of the clamps you use on the router. Thanks

What are you doing prior to prep the boards? Lumber yard doesn’t exactly sell flat/parallel and true pieces…

Just a simple router table and bits you bought from Amazon. I have a simple router table, but then you pull out the professional level woodworking shop to do it. Love your shop but was hoping for the "with only a simple router table" video. I don't even need the raised panel I'm putting smoked plexiglass in the back.

What kind of wood is this ?

Cho hỏi máy soi bao nhiêu w thì làm được bạn

So, for us beginners who don't own a jointer, how would one solve the edge issue so it doesn't show up after its painted?

I like to do that wood is my life question get settled in one country wich is colombia I’m in london at the moment but when I got on holiday I try to put together my shop is not easy here you can get tops tools i costly but I just loved in my country I have best hard wood to work any way I like you program and you good teacher thanks

You make it look so simple. One question....Say you need to make a door that is 15" wide x 22" tall. You cut your rails and stiles that lay out to be that size, but I'm assuming when you do all the routing, you've decreased the footprint of the door right? Is there a standard length that you add to the rails and stiles so that after routing, you're left with the desired size door? Sorry if this is a dumb question.

How can I make a cheap frame?

Was the stock thickness for the styles and rails the same as the panel? Or was it a 1/4 inch less?