Good morning Chris!!😀😀 Stainless steel is definitely the way to go when it comes to outdoor furnaces. My Hardy is 100% stainless inside and out. We have been burning it for 24 years without a problem. Take care buddy!!😀😀 Logger Al
I have one of these for more than 20 years and it's still work like it did when it was new. Just do the required maintenance and it last for a very long time.
I have owned and operated a mechanical company for 35 years specializing in hydronic heating systems. We have installed quite a few of these boilers piped in with a secondary fuel system that automatically switches over. The last one being a gasification unit that is now getting removed. The problem with these units start with heat loss. The heat loss of a unit with 180 degree water inside, a R10 insulation and an outdoor temp of 10 degrees is substantial and is easily figured. The unit there is 200k BTU. That requires that you move 20 GPM at a 20 degree delta T. If you install the unit 100 feet from your building you have a 200 ft pressure drop to contend with plus the pressure drop of the plate exchanger and yes you will need one as these units are open systems. This takes a sizable circulator to move this much water, again heat loss through the piping system is very high. Next problem is going out in pouring rain or 2 feet of snow to load the damn thing, not a fun thing to do. The gasification units require dry wood to operate or they go out especially on warmer days where they start very infrequently. The wet wood thing just allows the BTUs to go out the stack as steam. Another problem is people like to start these things in the summer to heat domestic water or maybe a swimming pool, the problem is in the summer close neighbors have their windows open and will soon complain and you will have to shut your unit down. My advice for people considering one of these is to keep it under roof and preferably in a insulated out building with ample space for your wood. The heat being lost through the jacket will heat the building and dry the wood and because you decreased the delta T there will be less heat loss. Keep the unit as close to the house as possible to reduce circulating heat loss. It is our experience that you will use 2 to 3 times the amount of wood as compared to a couple of modern indoor wood stoves. Although hydronic or hot water heat is a much better and controllable heat when used with radiators or floor heat it only makes up 2% of American systems and this usually means you will install a hot water coil in your furnace to distribute the heat. This is a much better way to burn wood with an endless amount of free feed. You only need to dry your chips so they dont spontaneously ignite which is fairly easy to do. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kvRK0lC1UKk.html
Chris...Went to the Suncoast website and the CB is a coal burner. There are only two wood burning boilers (X Series) listed for that manufacturer. Not sure what the constructions differences are, if any. The smallest wood boiler (200 X) heats 5,000 square feet. If you have access to wood at a reasonable cost this is definitely the way to go!
You can burn wood in a coal unit. I believe they had to market as a coal unit for epa requirements. I like the desing due to base gets filled with sand so you get less creosote buildup on bottom from condensation.
It’s simple. The more water in you wood when you burn it, the greater the proportion of the heat energy of the wood that is used to drive off the water when you burn it. The cooler the burn, the less efficient as the VOC’s are driven off as less flammable compounds that reduce the amount of heat produced and line your fire and flue. There is no free lunch. Either you condition you wood properly before you burn it or you will pay the price when you dry it when you burn it.
The demand probably shot up when getting propane even delivered was a chore. I remember even emergency management in Wisconsin was involved so people could find propane. Not sure what year that was.
That was a very informative video, Chris. Thank you! One question about burning the same volume of wood either as a round or split into pieces. Wouldn't both the round and the splits need to be at an equal moisture content to produce the same number of BTUs? Your thoughts? Keep up the great work!
Good morning Chris, have you seen the top loading wood furnace? Can't remember the name but they are made in Canada . It'll take a 6ft log 🪵 up to 28in width. The top is manually opened or it has a remote control load it with a tractor or skid steer.
It doesn't have to be that size. Just the thought of your wood not being perfect is a time saver. And dealing with tree service wood, it can be any size or shape. Could benefit not having to cut and process as much.
@@aaronjackson5862 I get that it may save time, My question is how much time is wasted burning wood that is not dry thus reducing the amount of potential BTUs therefore having to actually cut and process more wood.🤔
I wonder how many potential BTUs are lost by using the fire itself to dry the wood versus air drying? coming at it from the fire suppression side there are formulas for figuring out how much water converted to steam expansion rate is required to knock down X size fire, water converted to steam 1700:1 is more efficient at reducing fire temperature vs just water.
It takes 180 BTUs to take 1 pound of water from 32 to 212 it then requires 970 BTUs to take 1 lb of water from 180 to 212 steam. In a normal steam system we collect that steam as condensate and reclaim our 970 BTUs per lb. In a wood boiler it just goes out the stack. If you weigh your wood and do a moisture test you can easily calculate the lbs of water in a given lot. Burning wet wood is a fools errand or an act of desperation.
Oh boy…The wood boiler saga. Heatmor and central boiler were two powerhouses in this space of the conventional owbs for many years. They work yes but are the most inefficient way to burn chunk wood. An indoor old style conventional hot air central heating furnace is more efficient. However there are mfgs out there that knew how to burn chunk wood efficiently in a boiler system for over 40 years. Garn comes to mind🤔😁. The Europeans have known this for 50 years. Glad these US/Canadian Mfgs have adopted the secondary combustion of European design but they are finicky and I’ll die on this hill that thermal storage makes any chunk wood boilers combustion more efficient…Problem I see with these new high efficiency owbs. Garn figured this out 40 years ago.
@@austindenotter19 I agree. Lots of fuel that could be useful. The particulates don’t bother me but what runs hand in hand is the more efficient combustion (i.e. secondary combustion, thermal storage), the more heat is recovered per cord in turn less particulate emissions, less wood, less labor. Less emissions is a positive side effect of more efficient combustion. Think about it…when does a new diesel regen?? Stop/starting/idling? Or when running constant full out?
Yup, nature will always win as far as fuel to burn in the forest if not used...wildfires are a natural and normal way to clean and start over...man is the bump in the road...unless forests are managed.
I don't know if i agree. I'm glad to see this video to hear that Wisconsin does not have the EPA regulations makes more sense now in listening to Chris's previous vids. I would say that boilers are very efficient if you are heating with wood especially the newer ones. My house used to be 80 degrees in the living room by the woodstove and cold in the other end of the house. Now every room is a consistent 68. And there's barely any ash because it burns so completely. Secondary burn boilers are finicky from time to time but manufacturers started using this method because of the phase II regulations and requirements for cleaner emissions. I love our boiler.
My Central Boiler CL6048 has the Duel Fuel prep option. bought in 2007. The second Fuel option goes in through the side. be it Propane, Natural gas, Fuel Oil, Corn/Pellets The Pellet/Corn burner can be had with a Huge hopper than can hold over a months worth of product.
I love my Heatmore!! 15 years now on a 100CS. I have replaced the door gasket, the blower(old one still worked-just to have a spare), and the door hoses. Might get a 200 and heat another house.
No, they are available now but depending on what happens regs might get lifted lightened or they might come down like a 10 pound maul on your hand....it could get worse???
It might be a good conversation to have about WHY the EPA are concerned about particulate emissions. I'm in the UK and a year or two back out stove industry had to 'up their game' to design (and test) any new woodstove to conform to the 'EcoDesign' regulations which mean the stove is even more efficient and clean burning than older 'Clean Air Act' DEFRA-approved stoves (of which I have two, made by Clearview). Particulates (smoke) are unburned wood, so they are wasting the fuel you bought/cut-split-stacked and these particulates (PM10 and PM2.5) are damaging to health. In the UK, most particulates come from internal combustion engines, mostly diesel engines, but woodstoves also contribute a lot. So having DEFRA-approved or EcoDesign stoves reduce our impact on the health of our communities, AND save us energy/money etc.
Do they also test the wood the end user is feeding the woodstove? can you only burn dry well seasoned wood or can you feed the stove green wood and still meet emission standards?🤔
@@iffykidmn8170 The local authority is permitted to respond to complaints of smoke emissions and can come and inspect your fuel stores and stove. If you had chipboard or painted wood or damp wood over 20% moisture, they could prosecute you or serve a notice on you to stop creating a statutory nuisance. If you were found to have NOT complied, there could be a fine imposed by courts.
We have one at tree company and burn the wood got a lot of seasoned wood but if splitting in winter time take garbage wood up and burn it had burner 12 years no problem maintenance every 2 weeks clean out heats the shop and office for free no cost for wood burns green are seasoned green on stuff already burning in my case don't have to buy firewood so that is a savings then in summer put a bucket over the smoke stack which is 35 feet tall got a good one when bought it double doors and insulation water heated with antifreeze take care of it it takes care of you like a automobile that's my experience with one 0:00 and they can burn 3 foot peices of firewood fill up set damper and let burn 0:00 0:00 0:00
