A shave with a newly Restored/Replated 1964 Gillette J3 Slim Adjustable Razor 

Second 1/4 1967

That is a 1967, made in the second quarter (April, May, June) model.

For future reference, I use the date code guide on Razor Emporium's website. As long as you have an idea of what razor you're holding, you're good to go!!

Had it been the shelf (and this local drug store stocks Clubman), I would've picked it up.:)

Hi, FirstName Ivermectin. I sent the razor on January 18, 2021 nd it arrived in my Mailbox on February 11, 2021. While in process, Chris sent me photos updating me as to the status of the razor while it was being replated. And thanks so much for confirming how wonderful Chris' replating service is. I'm certainly sending him another razor or two.:)

Michael, I agree.:0 With all the razors I have, the Slim would definitely be in the Island group.:)

Thanks, Tito Forest Shittaker Perez.:) Yes, agree. Wonderful piece of history.:)

Alex, the main reason I decided to have this replated was due to a deep-cleaning as part of the process. The twist-lock mechanism was troublesome. The deep-cleaning solved the issue and the replated razor looks great!:) Really beautiful!:) I have a Fatboy that has a lazy door and could use a bit of a tune-up. But, along the lines of your thinking, I feel that that lazy door is part of its charm.:)

@@MarkSzorady That makes sense. I will probably just have my razor get a tune up service through razor emporium. For me, there is just something cool about the patina of an old razor and the years it took to get to that patina. Anyways, good video mark!

@@alexangel8284my pleasure.

@@alexangel8284 here's some information I received form Chris Evat regarding the mechanics of the Slim, etc. This is one of the reasons why I opted for a deep-cleaning and re-plating of my Slim rather than having it taken apart and physically cleaned. The deep cleaning (done with equipment that Chris has) flushed out all the gunk and build-up without ever having to take things apart. ====== There are a lot of guys that will take apart a Slim. It is not rocket science, It is done frequently. It is a process, however, by which many Slims have been ruined by failed attempts. The removal process involves the crimped retainer cap being pushed downward on the rod (deeper into the handle of the razor). Doing so will "widen" the cap enough to allow it to fit over the end of the rod and be removed. This is generally done with a small socket (as would be used with a ratchet to remove bolts), The razor is secured with the TTO-end facing up. The small socket is placed onto the crimped retainer cap. The socket is given a tap by a hammer to force it downward on the rod (to widen it). The crimped retainer cap has then been "widened" enough to be removed from the rod. There are a couple of issues that must be managed during the removal process: 1) The crimped retainer cap must not be disfigured or damaged by the blunt force put upon it during the procedure. It must be re-used, because there are no available replacement retainer caps (unless another Slim serves as a parts donor). 2) There is a spring (under tension) that is secured on the rod by the crimped retainer cap. Care must be taken to prevent the spring from rebounding and launching the "widened" retainer cap across the room (with the spring sometimes following). Once these two steps are completed, the crimped retainer cap is off and the TTO-rod and door assembly can be removed from the razor. This makes the interior area of the handle open for manual cleaning. The TTO rod can also be cleaned of anything that has built-up on it. This process does NOT, however, open up the adjustment mechanism. That is a completely different (and more advanced topic) that requires that the head of the razor be removed from the shaft of the handle. The adjustment mechanism and the head of the razor are "press-fit" into the handle. If disassembly is to go to that degree, after these components have been removed from the handle they must be "pressed" back in-place when reassembling the razor. This is typically done with a vice. When reinstalling the crimped retainer cap, the razor is, again, secured with the TTO-end facing up. The spring is placed back in-place on the rod. Then the crimped retainer cap is placed on the rod. The "widened" crimped retainer cap is too loose to hold anything in-place at this point, so it must be re-crimped. Most guys will use needle nose pliers to re-crimp the retainer cap. This process involves forcing the crimped retainer cap downward enough to compress the spring and to get the retainer cap in the proper location so that it can be re-crimped. The crimped retainer cap was originally crimped on four sides. In order to be as secure as it was originally, it must be re-crimped in the same manner. Remember that this crimped fitting must be put back in place such that it is tight enough and secure enough to withstand the force of the compressed spring that is below it. There is ALWAYS tension on this spring - even when the razor doors are open. When the razor doors are closed and the TTO is turned tight enough to "set" the final 1/4-turn, there is substantial tension on the spring. If the crimped retainer cap is not adequately re-crimped, it will not be able to withstand the force. The retainer cap will fly off and the razor comes apart. The challenges that must be managed during the installation process: 1) The crimped retainer cap must not have been damaged during the disassembly process and also must not be damaged while being re-crimped. 2) The tension of the spring must be overcome while the re-crimping is being done. Basically, the spring is trying to push-off the retainer cap while it is being re-crimped. A slip-up can result in the cap and spring launching across the room. 3) One must be able to adequately re-crimp the cap in a manner that mimics what Gillette originally did. Anything less than proper re-crimping on all four sides will result in less than stable and less than dependable conditions. It is easy to see why the earlier Fat Boy (generally D thru mid-F date codes) threaded-on retainer cap was the cat's meow! The threaded-on retainer cap had slots to insert a tool and the cap simply "unthreaded" from the rod. This allowed for easy disassembly for routine cleaning, servicing and such. Unfortunately, the later versions of the Fatty received the crimped-retainer cap (cost-saving measure for Gillette) and ALL the Slims had the crimped-retainer cap. Hopefully, this information will flesh-out the details and provide a better understanding of the downfalls of the crimped-on retainer cap situation.

Thanks, THG.:) We'v talk about how to adjust these razors on the Monday Morning Mailbag. Always good to review especially for those who have newly acquired one of these razors. So thanks for confirming. Köszönöm!

Thanks, Mel. Yes, thse razors are great! made very well and will last for generations. Chris did a superlative job. It sounds like your dad has taken very good care of his razors .

Thanks, The Scentsless Shaver.:) Appreciate the kind words.:) I have, I think, three Clubman after shaves...Clubman Pinaud, Whiskey Woods, and Virgin Island Bay Rum. I need to try a few more, though. I thinkClassic Vanilla will be next.:) And yes, trying to not scoop too much.:):) LOL!:)

Mike, those razors sound awesome!:) Great shaves ahead!:)

he chose nickel, mentioned in the vid.

@@germanshepherd13 thanks for that ... I must have missed that part while working:-) i am considering the same now for my Fatboy

Apologies, I don't quite understand.

@@MarkSzorady the razor, you hawe restor or not on the video

@@brijanjekodzonija985 Yes, replated by RazorPlate.com: www.razorplate.com/

Thanks, John.:) The razor is an absolute delight! I'm so happy to finally have the 1/4 mechanism cleaned and working properly.:) Simply adds to the enjoyment.:)

Link is the second sentence in description. I don't think it became embedded. But it's RazorPlate.com. www.razorplate.com. I'll correct so it becomes clickable.

Thanks, Sig.:) Nice! 1965!

@@MarkSzorady 🤙

Thanks, Jason.:) The Nivea Vanilla & bourbon was a nice find.:)

Yes, I do believe the new nickel plating makes it smoother.:) And yes, the 1/4 turn really locks things down.:)

Great looking restore and shave! I have three slims: H1, I1 and a J3 like yours! All in great shape and for $12 each from an antique store! I have two fat boys and I admit I prefer my slims over the Fatboys. The head geometry, slimmer handle are just more comfortable and the shave is effortless . All my slims shave great and I have no desire to buy any more razors (well we’ll see!)

Massimo, agree.:) Every wet shaver should have least one Vintage Gillette razor in their collection.:)

Thanks, Jerry! Agree, Chris did an awesome job! Thanks for recommending.:)

I have a 1962 Slim Adjustable that could use this. What does the pricing look like and who does the work? Thank you.

@@nickcase2635 Chris Evatt at razorplate.com does the work. The price for mine was $55.00 plus shipping. :)

Aaron, got an email showing your comment for the Sunday Shave video. yet, I cannot find it. Apologies.

@@MarkSzorady No worries! IAMCDB has been having the same issue. It was a crack about the volume of soap you used - enough to shear a sheep! Also my SOTD: Gem Micro-matic Clog-Pruf and Stainless GEM blade, Sterling Coniferous. 2 pass BBS, which no DE I've used can do. No post-shave for me, otherwise irritation and/or acne result; just warm water followed by cold water.

@@zekehall Thanks.:) I got the comment in email, it just didn't' post in comments area. I put the comment on the list for possible MMMB topics.:)

@@MarkSzorady Good idea, as a proactive measure. It's caused some channels headaches (commenters upset because they feel like their comments were deleted by the channel, when it was really a RU-vid glitch). Happens to comments even if they have no material banned by YT, and seems random regarding users it affects.

@@zekehall thask for the insight and background info on this.:)