Thanks for this video. It is very well done and will be very helpful to me and others who do not have router tables. I will be building some cabinet doors in the next couple of weeks and will try your methods. I know I will have to modify them some, but you have provided me with a starting point. This will be my first effort with a router, so wish me luck and thank you, again.
Good video. I found it very clear especially given that English is obviously not your first language. The thing for novices to take away from this is that it really is worth spending the extra €25 to get the router with the micro adjustment knob. And while I wouldn't want to use this technique to make an entire floor. It is very useful for gluing up planks into wide boards. Makes it much easier to get the alignment correct.
You sir certainly have shown some of the best craftsmanship I've ever seen in my 3 yrs of watching woodworkers on youtube. Most show off their collection of expensive tools as if the tools work themselves. You're a wonderful inspiration to me (and should be to ANYONE) who doesn't need to fix something every now and then. I dearly appreciate you sharing your skills Thanks again. 👍🏾
Very nice video, long time I looking this kind off video for making wood floors tips. I got today big tips from your video. Thank u for your video. God bless you.
Don't understand people saying just use some other, usually expensive, piece of equipment. Woodworking tools are very expensive. Some people have to work with what they already have.
This would be a fantastic fix for all of those cuts from hardwood floors. I can’t believe the amount of wasted simply because the tongue or groove has been cut off the end when the floor plank was fitted. The time it would take to make route a new end would more than make up for the horrendous cost of hardwood.
Thank you, I will be using this method until I can afford a router table. Love watching you're trial and error way of doing it; a very important and informative way of learning. Thanks. I have subscribed. :-)
Impressive video. May I suggest that routing tongues would be easier with a bearing guide. Not all routers have that option, but it is an attachment to guide along the edge on curved surfaces. For example the Makita RT0700 comes with it. I am sure you can figure that one out and make your own attachment. With that you could just use a straight plunge bit to cut tongues
Super simple and super effective! Doing a complete floor takes some time but when you get some method to the madness you can just put music in the headphones and route away and you're done before you know it ... hopefully! Can also be very boring haha! :D
Thank you . I want to do a tongue and grove ceiling and can get the tongue and grove pine boards from my Uncles saw mill half the price of Home Depot but I want the ends of the boards to have tongue and grove also. So I need to get a router and can see I need to put 6 boards together or so and router the ends at one time. Still think it will be easier than Sheetrock by myself and look nicer in the end. Thank you👍
I am an experienced carpenter, and you have shown/reminded me how many steps it would actually take in practice to make a tongue and groove floor for my entire house. I will consider abandoning that idea.
I’m thinking that having two routers set, one for tongue and one for grove would be ideal. I want to do my ceiling but I want the ends of the boards also tongue and grove. Ugggh. Still easier than 5/8 Sheetrock taping and mudding by myself
Instead of adjusting the router height for the tongue, why not add a flat metal strip on top of the plank to elevate the router for the first pass? Then you can just remove it for the second pass and keep the same router depth setting for cutting all the tongues.
Hi there. I purchased a Freud adjustable tongue and groove bit set (99-036) for my ryobi plunge router however the router doesn’t go down enough so I can make a groove in the Centre of the 3/4” stock. My question is Can you insert the shank about 50%of the way into the collet so I can get the bit to go down further or is that dangerous to do? Also do you have any videos or know of any that explains how to assemble the bit set when adding shims to adjust the depths of the cuts. The set is supposed to be adjustable but when I added the shims I ended up ruining the blade because the top and bottom cutters ended up touching each other. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks so much.
Mounting your router to trimmed sheet of plywood to create router table would help to make the tongue and groove cuts quicker. A wood fence could be clamped to the plywood to make a fence to guide the wood.
Which router is that you used in the video, and what router bit and router fence did you use? I have a cedar greenhouse I am building with rough cut cedar, and one by six tongue and groove knee boards, and from the thickness of what you were using, I think the stuff you used in there, including the bit would be what I need to purchase. Any suggestions are very much appreciated, thanks!
Cool jig, but I think it's actually cheaper to buy the flooring pre-made. I put real nice pre-finished 3/4" hickory in my family room. Total cost was $3/sqft (which is basically 1 board foot). I don't think I could get rough cut hickory for much less than $3, not to mention all the labor and wear & tear on my tools.
Hi Sergio,that was a great video,im new to routers,and lately i bought a router which it takes 6 and 8mm shank bits,i tried to buy a bit like the one you used in this video,but i can not find the shank size of 8 or 6 mm,as the 1/4 shank is 6.35mm and does not fit in my 6mm collet and in the 8mm collet its too small..what size of shank bit did you use to cut tongue and groove please?looking forward to hear from you,in the mean time i wish you all the very best with your work.
I do not yet have a Router or -table. So Sergio what is best? I have seen Triton and some troubles. I like Bosch and Ryobi I could get. Black and Decker I used on many drills but found Bosch much better. I am not safe as You and need to learn from the Masters. Being scared is a bit of a problem.
I think one can make much more with a router table. But it is way more expensive, and you must take care of your fingers. Some pushers are helpful 😃. But for some tasks, like routing a mortise, I prefer my plunge router instead of the router table.
Could you also do this with a fixed base router, just using the depth adjuster instead of the plunge feature of the plunge router? :-) Oh, and "rout" or "router" in this context is generally pronounced r *ow!* ter with the "ou" pronounced like "ouch!" ;-) Awesome videos, and wonderful jigs! Thank you for sharing them with us.
Sergio Acuña Padin oh, sorry, a "fixed base" router is a router that cannot "plunge" like a plunge router. You set the router bit depth (how deeply it cuts into the wood) before you turn on the router. Like an oversized trim router, I guess? Thank you for replying! :-)
Great if your just doing this for yourself with a lot of spare time on your hands.....Otherwise crazy amount of wasted time and energy...but we are all rooting for ya.
It would save a lot of time to invest in a tounge and groove router bit or slot cutter set that way u would only need one pass and it comes out a lot cleaner
Yes, sure that would save time. But I am very happy with what I got using these simple router bits 😃. Also, I got very clean groove and tongue joints. Thanks for watching 👍
