This guy is awesome! Did he say he's in an apartment, in a 1-car garage? That is initiative! That is doing whatever it takes! This Is following your Bliss! I want to be like this guy when I grow up.
I knew it could be done, but I've never done it, I wasn't sure if it would dry darker or not, you gave me the confidence to try it. Thank you. You do great work.
I find it best to pour the glue first into the holes and then compress the wood dust over until it soaks it up. Repeat as necessary until filled. But don't mix them. When dried, sand it all down, and it'll blend with the wood. Always use the exact species though.
Thank you! A wood dust and glue filler really should be a luthiers first port of call every time. There are 44 decorative gold and ebony rings around the body, it's a birthday guitar :)
pissed i fell through my parent G Plan glass top table, teak surround, managed to get a replacement glass top, when i fixed it i had teak saw dust so i needed to make a filler, thanx for you're advice. get well soon! Love ade
This is the only filler which I have seen match the wood which has been filled , without doubt the best thank you , and wear a mask I see you wore an ear protector wear a lung protector , 😊
I would be tempted to try and push the gap closed and re-glue with thin superglue, however, it certainly would be easier (and safer) to fill the gap. Don't try messing around with plastic though either use dust to match the fret-board or buy some dye and mix it with epoxy to match the binding..
I stopped watching at 3' 50" . . No, but seriously, I was so pleased to hear your comment for those of us who are just about capable to work it out from there on. So many videos (more often than not, from across the pond) are ill-prepared, with the presenter thinking out loud, and with loads of pregnant pauses etc leading one to believe that (a) they're terrible at presenting videos, and (b) they haven't bothered to do a dry run to check out things like lighting and sound quality. Thankfully the videos presented by Crimson Guitars are excellent, considering they're probably done on a fairly tight budget. Well done sir!!!
I'm going to have to test it out with rosewood dust to see but I suspect if you put more dust in the mix the final result will be lighter and closer to the original wood..
Hi, My description of the consistency would be the change from cream to paste. Excellent tip, nice looking guitar. A late uncle of mine used to make classical and flamenco guitars back in the '60s and '70s.
That is a very crafty tip sir. I've used traditional filler that I've stained to best match my application, but one is never quite happy with the results. That job is very nice. I feel a bit stupid for not having thought of it myself. xD Keep it coming please
great job! I put a new top on a guitar with the binding already in place and ended up with some thin gaps between top edge and binding. I'll try this as filler.
I used school glue(white glue) with spruce dust to fill some gaps after I put a new top on an acoustic guitar. It matched perfect where yellow glue with spruce dust was too dark.
These videos are really cool and insightful! Love your work, its funny that I don't even build guitars but I love to know all the little facets about building! Great stuff!
Thanks for this - great tip! I am a fledgling wood sculptor and I am going to give this a whirl on a beautiful cross section of maple for a piece I am working on! Your work on that guitar is beautiful! :-)
Pretty much! I would really like to find a way to use my saw dust and shavings in a new guitar without having to use environmentally suspect this like epoxy etc. But with the right glue we could certainly 3d print using dust as the main substrate.
Hope you illness gets well a little more quickly that it has to date! Take care, I know you usually use breathing gear, and even with the sander you used and any with a collection bag, other than a length of tube which goes through to another room or a dustbin (literally) outside preferably undercover so you can choose to use the thing for solely dust collection or to be disposed of completely, of course, but a really good
I am currently stripping and re-finishing the body of a stratocaster. The lacquer has been stripped using a hot air gun and a scraper. I believe the body to be made of alder - there are quite a few dents and gouges in the wood that need to be filled. These dents can be up to 15mm by 10mm and up to 3 - 4mm deep. Would this technique work or would I be better off using a ready made woodfiller?
I'm curious about this method. I have tie it before on projects and when finishing it, more particularly stain, it wont accept it. But that's stain, I'm not sure about natural finish. Thaks for the video, this will come in clutch.
dude, you got some awesome videos! I am building 2 guitars now (using some of your tips, by the way). As soon as they are done I wanna show them to you! Peace, man! and thanks a lot!
Thanks for the tip. I tried this with oak and either my wood glue was somehow incorrect or this technique doesn't work on light tone woods. I ended up using water based Varithane urethane floor finish instead of the white glue and it dried completely clear and finished up perfectly after sanding
The channel cut into the walnut was indeed made by a worm. I carve staves and stuff and have caught the little buggers in the act of making just such channels. It amazes me how fast they can ruin a piece of beautiful wood- ...as little as over night or the weekend!
thank you for the details. Do you think I can do the same for fretboard? I am converting fretted bass to fretless. But seems like amny are saying the proper way is to put an actual wood. It is a kala ubass
Hi CrimsonCustomGuitars, Very useful tip indeed. And where 'pore or grain filling' because the whole surface is covered a different colour sometimes lighter, or darker can be used which as an all over finish becomes just another grain colour variation, though this is best done on more or less even colour shaded surfaces, this process can still be used as bands that follow the wood colour so some dark and some lighter will look as if it is much more like the surface is before you start?
I've done small fills with dust and super glue for the same results, indistinguishable and quick settings. It's workable in a matter of minutes. I'm curious as to whether or not anyone has done larger scale fills this way.
You do some amazing work, man. I appriciate the time and effort you put into these videos. They've helped me a lot. What are your feelings towards oil finishes? I've been thinking about applying a tung-oil finish to the back a neck on one of my basses, after I strip it, of course. I've read in various places that an oiled neck may lack "stability", leading to a warped neck. In your experience, have you ever noticed this?
Hi Ben -- got a "wood question." Working on a parts Tele; the front isn't bad, coming along all right, but the back has "checking" in several areas. I can sand 'em down smooth as a baby's bottom, I spray primer, and ridges rise right back up again. Most recent act of desperation: sanded it all down to bare wood, putting a couple light coats of deck sealer on it. Won't know until tomorrow if that has any effect or not. (It's not like a "hole" or crack, both of which are easily filled; you can see the "cross-hatch" in the wood grain, if ya put yer glasses on and take a close look.) Got any bril advice?
He's right Ben, somehow it must have been edited out. As I watched the build progress and watched you work on the neck, I said to myself, "What, no truss rod?". Shortly thereafter, you could see that it was already installed. Rich
wow looks awesome mate. cant tell the difference :) just got to ask through, what are the gold rings ing the side of the body? look like string through ferrules. do they serve a purpose or are they just for show? cant wait for the next build mate. bloody awesome
I know your comment was a year ago so you may already have learned this by now: Ben pronounces sound that way because he of South African origin. I thought the same as you at first :)
I have hairline crack in the fretboard binding on my Guild Bluesbird.Do you think a similar method to this would work if I were to use powdered plastic?
Hi I tried to do the technique with wood dust and titebond but I used titebond 3 and not 2 the result was a very hard surface Difficult to sanding. the instuction titebond 3 say that i can sanding can tell me what I've done wrong? thank you very much
I used the same glue with rosewood dust, for covering slight errors on the rosewood fretboard... the compound turned very dark, like as if it was wet! did i do something wrong?
will this filler method work with laquer, stained, or dyed finishes? I know that some finishes react poorly with wood glue and wont allow the stain/etc to get into the grain, often leaving spots
bad as mine, if that a double negative, you get the gist, work in short spurts giving time to get your breath back may be a better even if unnaturally as a way of working. You will probably say as others have that I am saying the obvious, but if me saying this helps one person if not you then I have done as good as I can. Hope you are properly well ASAP, and this doesn't leave a permanent problem. You mrbluenun
Question. I need to fill in a hole in the wood on my guitar. It's where the holes are for the bridge, and I need to fill in the hole and drill a different hole but it will be about halfway through the old hole with the filler. Do know of any filler that I can drill through and it'll still stay put?
"...That's going to furniture restoration territory. And I've got nothing but..." (we're not worthy gesture) "admiration for people that can ..." Well, that pretty much summs up how I feel watching your videos, sir.
I have a question i have a guitarron which is the kind of bass guitars mariachis use and on the sattle they made the string holes to high so the action is very very stiff and bad. Could i use this technique to fill those hole sand make new ones?
Since your guitarron needs a lot of structural strength on the bridge, it wouldn't be a good idea to fill the holes will a filler. Drill out the the holes clean & square to a slightly-larger size, and glue in hardwood dowel to fill them. Don't use the splined dowels. Finding matching dowel may be difficult, however, and you could use maple or any other hardwood. Use Titebond red or blue label, not hide glue. That way, the new holes could partially overlap the old ones with no trouble. You can darken the maple with brown leather dye to help conceal the light-colored wood, or leave it as is for appearance. Narrow-section dowels are sold in hobby shops & craft stores, for only a few bucks for a lifetime supply. Some are as small as 0.1 inch in diameter. I'd be remiss if I didn't suggest that you first rule out any other possible causes of the high action before modifying the bridge. These could include the need for a neck reset, too much fretboard relief, a lifting bridge, loose bracing, or a bow or warping of the top of the instrument
vacuum of the shop and a good exhaust fan + a good mask even when using auxiliary filters as you used today on this video, you should 'be bothered' and use another personal breathing mask with a minimum of 2 microns acceptance. I have Asthma and know these things are not the easiest and most 'comfortable things to wear and use, I have the problem all the time, not to say your current problem is not as
It never going to match quite right....because what you invariably end up with is an end grain patch and that will always stain darker.......obviously if going with a natural finish
hardly look old enough honestly to get the annual Flue Jab, but it is something that may be a joke to some, but for those whom seem prone to any problems with their Lungs, and this lingering of your problem tends to tell me you are a likely choice for the flue jab, even if the first jab might and that is might make your chest a little worse for a week, it has not
Might I suggest working out what you want to say and demonstrate first or edit your videos down to a shorter timeframe? I love your work and you have some great tips but I find myself ignoring your videos. I don’t have time to watch 15 minutes of a 3 minute video. Check out Stewart MacDonald’s RU-vid channel as a reference. Not that you have to cut from various camera angles, but as least a brief explanation and then get to the repair. I too was guilty of this on my own videos until somebody “kindly” suggested that I join the MTV attention span method of video posts. I did more talking that demonstrating. I’m a bit OCD and detail oriented, which puts off most people. I was even told that I must need to get X amount of words per day to make myself happy. See, I’m talking too much now, hahaha. You’ll get more likes and subscribers if you chisel down your video times. Just my 2 cents worth.
Good vid! May I ask please? Are the tattoos on your knapper a result of battling gay realization, manifesting itself as anger turned inwards please? Btw, can you use the sawdust technique with epoxy resins please? Kind regards, kc
dude, put a mask on and you won't have as many problems with your health... and it is 7 hours from 3pm to 10 pm... lol thanks for the tip, I am going to use this for grain filling here in a few minutes...
done that to me, and as the flue vaccine changes all the time, the current vaccine is of necessity a 'guess' of the infectious strain, as the chemists try to beat the Flue at what it does best, that is changing quicker than the chemists can make a vaccine you know? Again get well, VERY well soon and get vacuuming everywhere, around the doors, frames everything then you will be working and breathing is as clean a place as possible. mrbluenun
