A quick and easy DIY video on swapping the ABS brake booster on your prized Land Cruiser 100 series or Lexus LX470 truck! In this video, I'll guide you through a step-by-step process, enabling you to take control of this crucial brake component replacement.
It starts with a hissing noise around the pump area, then come the ABS warning lights and the dreadful nonstop beeeeeeeeeeeeeep! A couple of times it comes and goes away and you're thinking oh well, the truck is 20+ years old so that's ok....Eventually it fails and let me tell you, when it does it sucks! YOU HAVE NO BRAKES!
You can buy a brand new unit from the dealer but that will run you at least $1400 OR you can check out the UZJ100 Facebook group and ask for Andy Le and he'll hook you up with a refurbished unit which he guarantees for a year! $800 with a core exchange worth $200! that's a GREAT DEAL
I have tried to put as many details as I could in the video. It's not really a complicated procedure if you take your time and watch a couple of videos (hint hint!). I'd recommend getting a set of flange nut wrenches to disconnect your brake lines and then bleed your brakes. On the subject of tools you really don't need much to be honest. Here is what i used:
10, 12, 13mm 1/4" and 3/8" sockets shallow and deep
1/4" and 3/8" Ratchet
1/4 and 3/8" drive universal joint adapter
1/4" and 3/8" drive wobble extension
small pic tool (to help disconnect the various electrical connector) - a.co/d/0PWzI0P
needle nose pliers (to help disconnect the vacuum hoses on the evap canister)
bleeder bottle (a.co/d/27beiRF)
Brake Cleaner spray - to clean your mess after bleeding the brakes
3 bottles of DOT 3 brake fluid
Fluid Extractor (To empty the old reservoir prior to removing it from the car) a.co/d/gBMWNpq
A fresh brake Booster firewall gasket (mine was fine but I put a fresh one anyway) www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/l...
Shop paper towel (you'll need to use some to protect your paint as some brake fluid spillage is inevitable and ultra corrosif to paint!)
#### PROTOCOL TO PRIME THE PUMP AND BLEED BRAKES #######
After you are done swapping the booster and everything has been reconnected and you are ready to get on with the business of priming the pump and getting the bleeding procedure done, take the steps outlined below and you should be fine. Although some people thinnk that techstream is necessary to do this, I can confirm that it is NOT NECESSARY and that you can achieve the proper priming and bleeding without.
1- Fill the reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid (you will want to have at least 3 large bottles of fresh fluid on hand because you will flush all the lines off of the old fluid while you bleed)
2- Reconnect the battery
3- Turn the key in accessory mode (it's the position right before you crank the car!, it energizes the car and turns all the electrical systems on)
4- The ABS lights and alarm will trigger at this point but don't panic it's normal. You will hear the pump cycle on and off many times as it primes itself and eventually the alarm AND lights will stop! Note that the many cycles of the pump coming on and off will drain your battery so you might need to crank the car at this point to let the alternator push power to the pump as it continues to prime. keep the car running...
5- Once the ABS warning light and the alarm stop you will need to press the brake pedal all the way down slowly and then let it go back up and the pump will again run and push fluid through the system. DO THIS 25 TIMES in a row to reset the computer (ECU)!!! REALLY IMPORTANT steps.
6- turn the car off
7- Turn the key in accessory mode - don't crank the car
8- Start the brake bleeding procedure and you will need to have someone help you for this! go under the car and at each caliper put the hose of the bleeder bottle in place and using your 10mm flange nut wrench crack open the bleeder valve, have your helper push the brake pedal all the way down and while the pedal is still down, close the valve and let the pedal come back up, the pumps will come on and then stop. Repeat this sequence until no more air comes out of the line when you push the pedal down. Once no more air comes out of the line, that corner is done and you can move on to the other corners until you have done all four.
Keep an eye on the fluid level inside the reservoir as you might need to top it off since you are circulating fluid through the system and it is being flushed out.
Once no air comes out you should be good to go, tighten all the bleeder valves and clean up any mess around the caliper with brake cleaner fluid.
The brake pedal should be firm and you should be able to go on a test drive! CONGRATULATION!
DISCLAIMER: YOU ARE DOING THIS AT YOUR OWN RISKS, IF YOU DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE DOING THIS THEN DO NOT DO IT AND LET A PROFESSIONAL DO IT. I AM NOT A QUALIFIED MECHANIC! JUST A DO IT YOURSELFER GUY TRYING TO HELP.
28 окт 2023
