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This is absolutely the BEST and only good video on how to install this! All others did not mention the double tapping and I was yelling at my laptop, LOL This one is obviously done by a professional and the steps are all well synchronized, perfect tempo and detail!!!!!! Nice, no need to make another video on this subject. This one is the standard!
I love this! Straight to the point. I may not be doing the work but when I have my split A/C unit installed, I'll know what to look for and how to expect it. Thank you.
you make it look easy and you explain so clearly and straight forward.. I went to my disconnect and I don't have a surge protector so im going to have one installed...thanks
Kind of weird that a white wire is being used as a ground, no? I see it came that way on the surge protector but I would think it would at least be marked with a green pen or something. Not claiming you did anything wrong, just surprised the surge protectors ship like that.
Just installed Intermatic surge protectors for both my condensors. I would have double tapped, but your video was spot on. Project took only one hour. One thing that I did differently was that the wires on the Intermatic were very long and I used those to create the pig tail connections rather than a 10 gauge sold wire. Is that Okay? . I also used electrical tape to wind around the wire connectors just as an added precaution from them loosening. Thank you for a great video. Your diagrams were very helpful.
Awesome 😎 video and diagram 👍 I'm going to do this because I had to have the ECM motor on the air handler replaced ($876). Unit is only 2.5 years old. I paid $590 extra for a surge protector when the unit was installed (company is out of business). but the technician who just changed the motor said there is no surge protector. 😡
Usually it's not the motor itself but the module that goes on an ECM. Mine beat you by 6 months. My 2 year old Carrier X13 bit the dust. Motor was covered labor was not. They wanted for $700 labor so I bought the motor myself for less than $300. It took me less than an hour. I would put in Rectorseal surge protectors. They have added technology ( gas tube) that takes the hit before the mov's. In english that means if the surge protector takes a a hit and the mov's blow you need a new surge protector. Rectorseals protect the mov's and have a lifetime warranty should they blow. Seems like a win win. My X13 wouldn't shut off BTW. Some die like mine. Some won't turn on. Some on and off. It's always one of the 3. They are known to not last like the older but less efficient PCM motors.
From what I have seen. If you are installing a surge protector in an electrical panel, you need a two pole breaker that you would terminate the leads from the surge protector on. You could double check the instruction from the manufacturer. If I were installing a surge protector in an electrical panel, that is how I would do it.
What's the difference between double tapping at the lug as opposed to the pigtail? I get that only one wire is going into the lug with the pigtail, but curious why two can't go there, but they can at the pigtail? Thanks!
Lugs are rated for the number of conductors they may secure. If you "double tap" a lug which was not designed for it, you can cause issues with the connection. What can happen is the connection will come loose since it wasn't designed to hold two connectors, when a connection becomes loose it can arc which causes overheating and then lead to a fire. The few times I have seen double taping allowed is with equipment grounding conductors (the green or bare coper wire), the panel will have specifications that outline if, how, and when a lug may be doubled tapped. For example in some service panels the equipment grounding conductors lugs may be double tapped but never the hots or neutrals. In my service panel the grounding may be tripled tapped if using #14-10 wires, but only if they are the same size and materials. Always check the manuals and labels for your panel and follow them. The reason why grounds are allowed to be doubled tapped is because they are not meant to carry the full load continually, the equipment grounding conductors are designed to carry the rush of a ground fault just long enough to cause a breaker to trip.
Since it doesn't matter which side you put it on in terms of effect, why not put it on the load side so when it needs to be replaced you only need to pull the disconnect to do it safely.
It does matter. You misinterpreted what he said. He has a 240v system so 2 hots on the line side. He meant the wires didn't matter to which hot on the line side. This type does not go to the load side.
Typically line is on the top. The wires that feeds the disconnect are your line. The wires that leaves the disconnect to feed the compressor is your load. Hope that helps you.
How would the wiring work if you have a 120 mini split (12/2 gauge 1/B, 1/W, & 1/G) ? Do both Black wires on this surge protector go to the (1) line and the White wire goes to Ground Bus Bar or to the White/Neutral?
The 2 blacks from the SP go to the hot (120v) and the neutral. The white from the SP goes to ground just like if it was 240v. The only difference is instead of the second hot it goes to neutral.
line side from house Black (hot) Red (hot) Bare Ground wire from surge Black(1) Black (2) White (Ground) Pig tails Black (hot) Red (Hot) White (Ground) so the White wires should have been rewrapped with green tape
Hey buddy just came across your RU-vid channel, I have to say your videos are really informercial and it really helps in DIY Projects. I was wondering if you can guide me how to install INTERMATIC COMPRESSOR DEFENDER - MODEL # CD1-024R. I do understand on how to connect to the Line side. But what's really confusing is how do I connect to my Compressor wiring.? I was wondering if you can help me through the process. I am talking about how to connect the BLACK and the RED wire that connects to the Compressor side. I would appreciate if you can guide me through it. I am happy to send you any pictures if you like. Please advise.
Others are right that double-tapping is against the electrical code for any connector that's not designed for multiple wires. The twist-on wire connectors like those he uses are color-coded based on the number and size wires they can join. He uses tan-colored ones rated for up to three #10 wires, which is probably what you'll be joining. I'd wrap electrical tape tightly around them to keep moisture out.
It says in the install instructions .Under type 1 and type 2 installation . Ensure conductor lengths are as short and straight as possible for best performance . DO NOT COIL EXCESS WIRES.90 degree bends will reduce efficiencey . '' CUT ALL LEADS TO CORRECT LENGTH "
Please don't do this. Never put wire nuts on 240 volt ac unit they will fail. If you want to use pig tails use metal lugs and tape them up. They really recommend not cutting those leads because the factory figures on them being that length
