AC not blowing cold, then it works fine !?!? What could cause this ? 

AC guy with a few decades under my belt. Train and test for AC 608 and 609 certification.. Do maintenance and repair as well as theory training. This scenario will be tough. Simply replacing the valve, and really the dryer at a minimum means this system will absolutely grenade itself again in short order. When you see that black coating and gunk in the TXV valve like that it is contamination. Likely this one has had a small leak (service port cap left off, schraeder valve leak PUT THE SERVICE PORT CAPS BACK WHEN YOU ARE DONE!) resulting in topping the system off several times. Refrigerant leaks out, air gets in whamo bammo add more refrigerant, it cools OK, for a while. For you see when moisture gets into the POE or PAG oil (likely this is PAG) the oil absorbs the moisture (hygroscopic just like hydraulic brake fluid) turning into a dirty slimy gel like you see in the old valve. Anything we do in good intentions now given that we will likely NOT be able to flush this thing out (Thanks EPA for forcing car makers to be more environmentally "friendly" using more compact heat exchangers) This car needs it all, valve, dryer, evap, cond, lines and oil. This one will only die again SOON and cost more every time. And BTW so of that gack we see in the valve probably has fine metal in it given the age of the car showing us the compressor is on the way out too.....Remove the filter dryer and dump the oil out of it...bet you see more slime and metal.....I would hand this one back to the customer with explanation and a NO SALE invoice labor only for a diagnosis this is a non fix unless you do it right.

This man fixed the problem and that is all that matters, you can truly tell he cares as well, god bless you.

Man the most valuable part of this video is how you got that bolt out!!! That’s a 4-5 hour task

Great video - including the explanation of the expansion valve and what it does. Thanks! Having driven a 2002 Altima for 262K miles and fixing a lot of things myself, I felt a little twinge of PTSD watching this video. Working down near the firewall (ABS, A/C, etc.), I had my fair share of cut knuckles and fingers, and streams of profanity.

Great video. The description of the video title is what brought me in as I have the same issue. Thanks!

Thanks Kenny .all music to my ears .enjoy all you’re vids .thanks again.👍👍👍👍👍✌️✌️✌️

I am very impressed by your diagnostic skills

Can you imagine you didn't get that torx out?. Awesome video it helps a lot thank you.

Debris inside the expansion valve is from the compressor. Many times it’s the compressor that causes the entire system to fail. When a compressor fails, you usually have to replace everything. Condenser, compressor, lines, etc

That's a lot of knowledge you gave us. Thanks for the video,on the Nissan. Cold A/C. Everyone loves.😉☮️🤙

Thank you for such a great video.

Your a fine mechanic I don’t say that very often I’ve been turning a wrench for fourth years, I’d bet your quite fair charging your customers I would have tagged around $125.00 labor plus parts so keep up the excellent work my friend Victor j

Great job Kenny enjoyed the video you do fantastic job and love how you explain what you’re doing and why things happen 😊

Awesome video it helps a lot thank you

Watching as many videos as possible & learning more with every video.

Nice job 👏👏👏👏👏

Good evening,great explanation on task done,great description on what needed to be done n all the troubles coming as the job was moving forward,a doctor of the @/c system on vehicles,I'm confident to say,the Mr has gotten some good schooling learning n understanding on how this job works,thumbs up to you n my hat off Mr ....

appreciate the video. My civic is doing the same thing. Wonder if thats it. Props to you for getting that bolt out, what a PITA that must have been.

Great video. Thanks

Very informative. I just replaced my compressor and condenser. Bought the car with a seized compressor. Now my clutch kicks on and off as I drove home from charging my system. I did notice that i had lack of power like the compressor had alot of load on it and its a v8 shoulnt be struggling on the freeway. So this really narrows it down for me. Im going to do another thuro check to make sure this is my issue which im already 100% sure it is

Excellent video

As an hvac tech. I prefer a good ole piston metering device over a txv anyday. Expansion valves have moving parts that just fail. A bored piston will never fail.

Thanks for another great video, kenny .

Luckily you didn't have to take the evaporator out. Good job sir.

Learned alot,!

I've had to change the TXV on my old Honda Accord project car a couple of times, the exact same symptoms. If you just start the car up cold, the a/c would blow super cold and show normal pressures with the proper charge level. But after you drive it for 2 or 3 mins, it would start cycling all the time, and lugging the engine super hard. I have to do some work to actually drop the evap case out of the dash though, the TXV on mine is inside the evap case, and it uses the style with the long temp sensing tube. Not a hard job per se, just annoying having to work under the dash board. I think debris in the lines or system caused my TXV failures, I finally got a pretty good deal on a complete new system through Rockauto for about $230 dollars. Best money I ever spent, new condenser, new TXV, receiver/dryer, compressor, and I already changed the lines and flushed the evaporator.

Great job. I recommend replacing drier anytime system is opened. Also break vacuum with nitro rather than with atmosphere. The oils used with R-134a are hygroscopic meaning they have an affinity for moisture. It cannot be removed by vacuum only with desiccant in the drier. If TXV stops feeding the evap then low side will go into a vacuum. You are essentially pumping the system down and stacking liquid up into the condenser. That reduces the surface of the condenser and causes high discharge pressure. Hope that helps you some.

Ahhh ha! Having the exact same issue with my 96 corolla, we figured it could have been a blockage in the receiver/drier (low side was far too low when it was refusing to work, dad left high side adapter at work, so we couldn't check that) but what confused the hell out of us was that it would sometimes work. He ruled out the expansion valve for the same intermittent operation-reason, but the corolla uses the same style of TX valve as shown in this video, so that's evidence that it's the tx valve imo.

Nice work

Awesome!!

All these videos are good videos, but actually are really simple to diagnose.That really good problems are when pressures are normal ,compressors not cycling On and off and still, you get warm air , those are the the things lot of us have issues .where everything seems normal yet it's not cooling, it's not. Pressures are normal yet not cooling, or why not power to compressor while fuses are good, Those are really simple things.

Excellent video my car is doing the same thing it's powering down on the engine and the air conditioning isn't what it used to be thanks so much for your help

I had a problem like this years ago and it was the evaporator icing up and the blower motor wasn’t blowing through the evaporator and then it would stop blowing cold. The drain was dripping but was a little clogged which allowed the water to back up and freeze… Cleaned out the drain hole and the problem was solved…

That black in that expansion valve is from a pump. Be it that pump or from another pump, it's a sure sign of a pump failure. Some systems can't be properly flushed because of parallel condensers and they need replaced, so many people just shove a new or rebuilt pump on it and call it good. If that's the case here then the pump will fail prematurely. Probably also why that expansion valve failed, it's corroded up with that black stuff and it's hanging up.

Outstanding presentation, I like your style. 👍🏼👍🏼

new sub, great vid, when do you ad pag oil, just did a evacuate and recharge but did not think about oil. there were no parts replaced just very low, empty on refrigeran, did hold vacuum for 45minutes and took recharge, thanks again

Vim tools are not bad for the price? Have a Lisle Master Torx set, it's impact rated and great, but the detent for the ball lock isn't machined into the drive side of the sockets, and the sockets just fall off the extensions.

How do you attach Harbor Freight gauges without damaging the high and low Schrader valves when you screw them down?

Can you spray some WD-40 on this Torx Screws and letting them sit so the WD-40 can penateate some before trying to unloosen them? Or would rhat interfere with the Unit since its not AC oil?

this confirm the same problem I have with my van where the ac tech put water in my system after he vacuum. As a scam to get me to keep returning the particles is more likely rust from the flex plate where as mines show small rust spots.

Good

Hi buddy. My chevrolet Sonic just keep cool air for a week then just Hot air get in the cabine, when I check the liquid line is Cold and the suction line is enviroment temperature so, do you think it is a expation valve problem or lack of freon due a some leake? Thanks in advance.

Did you replace all the orings when doing the expansion valve, the ones on the lines too or no ?

Good job Kenny, I have a question / What reason for the evaporator freezing up? I really want this answer, Help me, please Kenny. Thanks

Did you use anti lock back on those bolts

good video. i have a Subaru Legacy 03, and i have a problem with the AC, it is run good with cold air and sudendly start blowing hot air , i check the compresor is good , the relay is good too, probably i have to replace the valve

Well for using a vacuum during when you fill the refrigerator is a most right ?

Mr. Kenny I have a similar problem with my Toyota Corolla 2011 LE. I took it to the mechanic and he told me it was a low pressure from my Compressor. But after whatching your video it made me think it could be the same thing from your video. My problem is when I'm in the highway the airconditioner works fine but when I'm in the city in stop and go traffic the air stops blewing cold every once in while and then starts again once I maintain a steady speed. Would you have any idea what it could be?

Now I know how to get to my expansion valve on a 2015 altima 3.5L there's no cold air but compressor engage and the low pressure gauge stays low all the time

i have a 2010 civic and the car ac blows cold when i have it in the garage but when i leave it outside in the sun it only blows air. the clutch kicks on, fans turn on and relays are new. can this be a bad valve as well or the condenser

Would be a good idea after recovery to add a slight 2/3 psi of dry nitrogen pressure, if you have gone into vacuum, so that the system doesn’t suck in the humid air when disconnecting lines rather a slight puff out. Make sure you have goggles on you don’t want the oil spat in your eye 👁️

Can you imagine you didn't get that torx out?

I got a f150 2009 5.4L got everything new the compressor, condenser, fan clutch, evaporation valve literally everything when I’m driving it gets cold but when it comes to an idle or I stop at the light it gets cool not cold any suggestions

I have replaced the evop charge the sys still blowing hot air do you think that's valve has to do wit it

Did the new txv have adjuster on the end? When I install them I try to check and adjust the superheat by turning that screw in or out. In gives more superheat and out gives you less.

That system was probably wet. They make test kits for the refrigerant. I wonder if the system was opened and it didn't get pulled down sometime in the past.

I have similar problems any thoughts I’m on 2019 Hyundai in a minute cold then start blowing hot

I replaced my Snap-on alan tools and replaced them all with Mac Tools R.B.R.T. drivers because of rounding off even on good parts.

Is there a reason why the mechanic would leave that flat pin with two holes that looks like the letter Y just laying inside my hood? I just had the evaporator replaced.

I'm facing hot air blowing for few minutes especially in summer. Usually it will cool after I manually reset AC button. Is this is same problem?

easy in no such thing , man that's so true .

Hi brother thanks for your videos I'm a subscriber. Question please... I have a 1995 Lexus LS 400. The radiator fan is not activating. It does work because i tested it. I disconnected the connector that's connected to the receiver drier and the radiator fan turns on and stays on continuously the whole time. But when I reconnect the connector the radiator fan turns off. I'm trying to fix the fan so that it turns on when I turn on my air conditioner but the fan does not turn on when I turn on the AC. I feel like it has something to do with that connection but I'm not sure. Do you think I might have a bad sensor that's connected to the receiver drier? Thanks. Anybody knowledgeable please reply soon.

The low side should have gone into a vacuum if the TXV was stuck closed. The high side would go up but should not have pegged out. Usually if the high side goes that high it is a lack of air flow over the condenser, either from a faulty fan or a plugged condenser.. Tip; always use an anti-seize on the TXV bolts.

Thought the txv receives high pressure gas and changes to a low pressure liquid....heat from evap changes to a low pressure gas...back to the compressor.

I had this exact problem with my system and doing this replacement did not fix the problem. Ended up being a faulty low pressure switch.

I'm unfamiliar with the term "Pin." I would assume that the gauge indicator is maxing out and hitting the limit pin. Is this correct?

May you please tell me how you knew it was the expansion valve and not the pressure switch. I am having this issue. Thank you.

👍

Where are you located? Florida? Haja😊 my Saturn vue 2009 .sometimes it reads engine hot a/c off but after a while its clicks back on cold a/c

Hi ... Kenny I have a 97 4runner and the freon went out and it was blowing warm air so I took it to a mechanic and he recharge it, but it was cold for a couple of days and went warm again so i took it back and the mechanic tested for leak, but it seem to be fine no leak was detected so he determine it must be the ac condenser under the glove box for the 3rd generation 4runners and so he replace the ac condenser and the expansion valve, but now when I turn on the ac it didn't blow many cold air and we trace the coldness of the freon going through the pipes and found out that the freon was only getting to the expansion valve , but will not pass through to the ac condenser so the air was only blowing cool, not cold and every time I turn on the ac the compressor would turn on and off repeatedly just turn on and off on and off after it turns on for a couple of seconds than it would turn off again will you tel me what is wrong with my ac system I needed help, but couldn't find anyone knowledgeable around here and the sshop wants and arm and a leg for them to just look at it. please help me to get my ac running correct again.

Hey i got a 2011 eclipse and look like there is freeon on the system and my compressor clutch used to engage but it woult turn on and off but when car was at a stop or light clutch wouldnt engage only if i would be driving About a month ago we got to 85° and clutch wont engage ac comess out hot but still freeon on the system Found out evaporator or expansion valve are leaking so im about to replace both and the pressure sensor and blow the drain tube, you think that could fix my ac? If it dont work im out of ideas

I have a problem in my bus in the night time is good cool but morning after 8:00 am no cool what is the problem sir...

I realise this is an old video so my comment may not be read ,Here in AUS every time we recharge a system the TX valve as we call it is replaced as a preventive measure Cheers.

I have a 1993 Chevrolet suburban, 94,000 miles. My A/c compressor started rattling and the A/c stopped cooling. I took it to a repair shop and they replaced the compressor and other A/c components. It lasted 3 days before the compressor started rattling Again, BUT it was still Cooling. I took it back and the shop replaced the A/c compressor and whatever , that repair lasted 4 days before the compressor started rattling again-- still cooling. Took it back , now I’m on my third compressor. It lasted 3 months and it’s RATTLING AGAIN . Looks like I’m taking back again ( 04-20-2023 ) . Regardless WHAT could be the problem. Basically the only time it stopped cooling was with the factory compressor. Thanks

Hey Kenny, like a dumb dumb, I power-washed the front lower half of condenser, (UGG, will NEVER DO that again)...anyway, there was a VTEC issue previously and oil all over the passenger side of engine (03 honda accord 4cyl) So, fixed that. And replaced a shredded harmonic balancer and crank seal...getting to my question. If I damaged the condenser, are there other things I should do as well as a result? Clutch is not locked up, but not engaging either. Hot air flow in cabin. Both fans work. At this point because the system's has high and low sensors on condenser could have ohm'ed out, I have to 'run ac' to keep fans cooling engine bay (hot air) to keep from over heating, which it is not doing but could if I dont turn fans on manually by commanding AC on in cabin. Again, a new or good used condenser with dryer, is my first step? Either way I will vacuum and recharge. Think I will test the compressor, a destroyed condenser which could have created an arc or killed the ac compressor/clutch. There is pressure in the line. but yet to hook up gauges for an actual read. Your video is excellent for this, Thank you!!! And i may open at firewall to peek at expansion valve, before I recharge for any visual contaminants. Honda's do not like running with out AC system working. Throwing CEL and p0442 (small leak in vacuum actuator)...any other suggestions as to what other part a destroyed condenser may have caused? I really think the compressor does not need replacing, but it is a 2003.

What about a system that has a high low side pressure and the high side doesn’t budge from 100?? (New ac compressor and sensors)

I've had bad experiences with aftermarket expansion valves,always use oe

😂😂😂😂😂 “I think we have a junk Altima out back…..” that’s a redundant phrase, u could just say “I think we got another Altima….”

Any idea what could’ve caused the expansion valve to fail?

What’s the case if it’s blowing cold while driving but not while stopping on traffic signal for example?

Looks like you have a compressor that's on its way out. Seen that black stuff on other worn out compressors

Interesting??? Went to the dealer last week they said "for some reason it would hit high pressure then push hot air through one side" the wanted 1200.+ for a new compressor. Now I'm wondering 🤔

That compressor is slowly dying

Refrigerant, not freon

Does any one help me find the issue Ac compressor doesn’t turn on .. new Ac compressor new Relay new high pressure switch but compressor doesn’t turn on … but when I put paper clip on the relay compressor turn on ..

isn't this just a band aid to the real problem? where did all of that gunk come from? It can only come from the compressor, correct.

Peg or pegged.

Looks to me like you have more problems with a contaminated system

Need help KENNY

Why are you checking it at idle? Needs to be checked at 1500rpms. Low side around 40 to 45 depending on temp. The expansion valve may have a nick in the slide where the valve is and it's sticking like a thermostat would. Low side pressure is the most important factor in cold.

Could you get a holder for your camera? We want to see the work not narrated!

Hey man who cares if the machine is old run it

Again you won't show the good stuff! You jump around way too much

What freon? There is no freon , your delusional 😂