I'd love to see a "Meet Barry" video where you tell us more about yourself and your background, etc. Your technical skills shine through every video, man. Well done.
I really enjoy your reviews and the realistic view you have of products. There are far too many people who seem to jump on the "Oh my god there's a rubber bumper that came off, REFUND 0 stars!" wagon. Truth is, as you say, no big deal. Thanks for your time and effort Barry!
Have you experienced any humming from the unit, or clicking noise when either applying the brakes too hard, or when force feedback is strong? In ACC, I get a constant electrical humming from the unit even when driving straight. It gets louder when I turn the wheel. I turn the intensity down to 50%, and it's quieter, but still loud. Not sure what to do, or if my unit is damaged?
Thank you so much for updating this review!!! I just got my Accuforce in the mail a few days ago and I’m so excited to use it as soon as my new rig comes next week. SRG reviews are always the best!
I am retired with time to fill and adequate (?) funds. I was lucky enough to drive a very high end sim rig at the consumer electronics show in Vegas and I really enjoyed it. My buying guide is "If I buy the good stuff I will buy once". I am reviewing many sim racing videos to determine what a good sim rig will cost in the US. In many videos I see sim wheels, pedals, and other previously used equipment hanging on the walls. To me that equipment represents funds that should have been directed towards buying better equipment the first time around. This video had a big surprise for me. It is the first video that showed extensive configuration menus which I found a bit intimidating. Other than an overall intensity setting or turning a feature on/off, I had incorrectly assumed default settings would be fine which is essential for someone like me that has no real or sim racing experience other than 1/4 mile drag racing many years ago. While I do have funds, they are not unlimited. It didn't take long to realize I could not justify building a rig similar to yours or the sim rig I drove in Vegas. I can still build a high end pc, 3 screens, Next Level Racing seat for motion, Fanatec Club Sport pedals, and the Accuforce V2 while staying in budget. I still need to find current videos offering advice for selecting the steering wheel. They appear to be pricey so I will likely have to limit myself to 1 or 2 steering wheels. The last item I need to investigate is the software setup. As I mentioned before, the extensive menus for configuring the AF V2 were a bit overwhelming. I don't know anyone with a sim rig so I need to be confident that I can handle the setup before I start ordering equipment. BTW, how does anyone choose a racing seat? When I buy a chair for my house, I sit in it to see if it fits and feels comfortable. Oddly enough there are no racing seat stores near me so I cannot check for comfort. Some seat vendors offer a dozen seats to choose one. The one that looks great might not feel so great. How do I confidently select the right seat so I buy only once. Are there any conventions in the US that have a high sim racing participation? It would be great way to purchase all components at a single event.
I agree with the majority of this review I love my V2 but I do get a bit lost with all the settings...beautiful driving wheel. Great review as usual here Barry. Thanks for your reviews and work to keep us informed!
Great review! I purchased mine bout a year ago after burning up 2 Fanatec v2 bases. Love this wheel. Don’t understand all the criticism from some others here regarding the power supply. Who cares? I have mine mounted on the floor and as you stated...plenty of cable to run to my SIMX Stage 3 motion rig. At the promo price point, these are currently half price of an O.S.W. base.
And Fanatec fan boys who have probably already pre ordered that companies DD wheel at a much higher price point - and likely lower build quality - Barry will tell us how they compare in good time.
Thanks Barry, really good tip running foundation mode in AC. I kind of hated this sim before for delivering FFB that makes me suck at it and with Foundation it feels a lot more like the others and start loving it:)
Seems the software is hugely better over its competitors, IMHO with a DD wheel you need good software & you need it updated constantly which simxperience seems to do.
You’ll be happy with your purchase. I went from a clubsport v2 and was worried that I wouldn’t notice a major difference but I absolutely did. The accuforce is a great wheel with an extreme amount of adjustments to make it feel how you want it to feel.
I have never owned any other direct drive wheel other than the accuforce V2 but I have come from a thrustmaster t500 as well as a G27 and will say it is as good as any wheel on the market
Got this wheel two weeks ago and absolutely love it. An OSW at double the price or more for minimal added effects and extra power that you will never use just isn't worth it unless you're a professional racer that needs that kind of extreme detail. No way in hell anyone needs a 30nM+ DD wheel, thats just not realistic by any stretch of the imagination. This wheel puts out more Nm than you will ever need, enough to break your thumbs off if you want it to. One thing you didn't mention which I think is important since you emphasized the sim commander tuning is that you can actually download other peoples shared configurations. You simply check off which hardware you have, select the game (you can even select car/track but its not required and you will get far less results) and click search. It will populate a list of all the configs you can download, and some people will even have a description about their config, and what in game settings they use with it etc... There is one I got for PC2 that I did a bit of tweaking with and it is just incredible the FFB I get from this game. The detail you feel hitting kerbs, burms, grass, gravel, other cars, under steer, crashes, wheel lock etc is just incredible. The one I got for iRacing is decent as well but I have not put in as much time with this game yet. Dirt Rally has also been incredible but I am waiting for my hand brake to arrive before I really dive into this for obvious reasons. I have not had a single issue or complaint with it and its built like a tank so I don't foresee having any for a long time.
some open wheelers without power steering do reach steering forces of 30nm and more (indycar is one example). there are even some road cars without power steering that require 10nm or more. while 13nm is probably enough for most people, there are definitely cases where more power is realistic.
Could you site a source for that 30nm figure? I regularly see people quote these crazy high nm figures (that would utterly exhaust a human being that doesn't hail from planet Krypton in mere minutes) yet no one ever seems to back it up with verifiable figures. I've done some searching and the only thing I can come up with is this: Autokraft Midget = 6.0 Nm (55 in-lbs) No power steering, 380mm (15.0”) Ø steering wheel. Lola T332 = 5.5-8.5 Nm (50-75 in-lbs) No power steering, 318mm (12.5") Ø steering wheel. Dodge Viper SRT-10 = 4.5 Nm (40 in-lbs) Power steering, 350mm (13.7" Ø steering wheel. Lotus 20 = 4.0-4.5 Nm (35-40 in-lbs) No power steering, 330mm (13.0") Ø steering wheel. Lola T190 = 6.0-7.5 Nm (55-65 in-lbs) No power steering, 318mm (12.5") Ø steering wheel. The highest on the list is the non-power steering Lola T332 at 5.5-8.5 Nm. The Lola raced in the Formula 5000 series and is at least aesthetically very similar to an Indycar. However, at 8.5 Nm it's still nowhere near 30 Nm. I'm genuinely curious about this, because at 30 Nm I suspect drivers would loose nearly all fine motor control almost immediately.
i wasnt able to find the article i was originally talking about, but i found a similar one. this one is about the japanese fomula series (formula japan/formula nippon) and their switching from unassisted steering to power steering from 2009 to 2010 (use google translate). similar to formula 1 and indycar, they use very light cars with a ton of downfoce. the maximum force for the unassisted steering is listed at 75nm. sites google com/site/fnarchive2010/2010fn/round5sugo/kikaku/fnno-pawasutewo-o-benkyou-shi-masho-u (replaces the spaces between sites, google, com with dots)
Thanks for your quick reply. Also, thank you for linking that article. While it's an interesting article, I think something must have been lost in translation, or it's simply flat out wrong. 75nm translates to approximately 663 inch pounds of torque. I doubt that even the strongest man on the planet could reasonably cope with this sort of torque. Even 30 nm translates to about 266 inch pounds of torque, which is pretty obscene in itself. Given the limitations of the human body, these numbers simply don't make any sense to me. I know that increasing my accuforce past the 70% or so mark basically renders it unusable for me - after two or three turns I'm ready to tap out. One other thing I don't understand is why some of these cars would have so much more resistance on their wheels. The Lola T332 was a 1970s non-power steering race car that could hit at least 190 mph. Why would these much newer Japanese cars have nearly nine times the resistance on their wheels? Were they pouring locktite in the steering mechanism? Cars with increased steering resistance would be at a huge disadvantage against cars with lighter steering resistance. You'd think that they'd try to avoid heavy, driver exhausting steering resistance at all costs. I wish there was a clear answer to this somewhere, but there doesn't seem to be an abundance of readily available info. Regardless, thank you very much for your response, and if you come across anything else please let me know. To amend this comment: The newer Japanese formula series would likely have cars with a higher down force than the Lola, which might in part explain more steering resistance. More down force = more steering resistance. That 75nm still strikes me as extreme, but who knows. It would be nice if we a pro driver who had experience with both the real life cars and sim steering would drop in to settle this...
I would buy this but I already have loads of Fanatec gear, so I might have to opt for the DD1 instead. It would be cool to see a comparison of those two.
Im a OSW owner and I agree Barry. If you are on a budget and want a DD wheel, this is a no brainer. BTW has anyone managed to get Assetto Corsa FFB to feel right on a DD wheel? I have spent a lot of time with it, with no results and that is the sole reason I never run that title.
Have you tried this guy my friend ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JqhRPbl4Pp0.html Looks like he knows what he is doing. He has video's for us DD owners for all the top sim titles. If you have already seen his videos but don't like the FFB then i don't know where to send you. I have only had my small midge 20nm OSW for a few weeks so am not qualified to say what is best. I have tried his setup for AC and it feels very good to me but then again i was using a G25 for 9 years so this is a MASSIVE step up for me. His RRE is also very good. Have a look if you haven't already. Hope this helps you
For the longest time, I couldn't get FFB that was satisfying in AC. Watching the Granite firmware forums, and Barry's review video of the Simucube system, helped dial in some settings that are actually quite enjoyable. Not quite Automobilista level---but just almost good, such that AC is one of my favorite sims now. I'd suggest, as a first step, downloading the excellent utility Assetto Corsa Content Manager. It is free---with a donation to unlock the full version. But all you need for now is the free version because it enables you to adjust FFB settings that are in obscure ini files while in the same screen with the conventional FFB settings. If you'll send an e-mail to me at manashttu@gmail.com . . . I'd be happy then to share screenshots of the settings that seem to work well on my large Mige. I don't claim to be an expert---but these adjustments took me from thinking AC was a waste of money to spending a lot of time in it, and they might be a good start for you.
I'm in the same boat man, AC feels terrible on my OSW. I've tried every solution known to the internet, nothing has helped. I think AC's FFB just doesn't hold up to scrutiny, with a DD wheel its vagueness becomes really apparent
Funny you say that. I loved AC when I was on the CSW V2, but after I got my Accuforce, I don't really fire it up for that very reason. I've been meaning to spend some more time trying to dial it in, but every other sim I have was pretty easy to get sorted quickly.
ABOUT MENY OF DEGREE OF ROTATION YOU JUST NEED TO CLICK NEAR THAT CURSOR(LEFT BEFORE (-1) OR RIGHT AFTER (+1)IT WILL ALOUD TO FINE TUNING BY ONE CLICK ONE DIGIT!ANY SETTINGS CAN BE FINE TUNE SAME WAY.
First of all congratulate you on your videos, they are very good. I just saw this video of yours as well as the last of augury kit 18nm of osw. Which one do you like the most and why? I'm thinking of buying a direct drive but I still have not decided which, this or the augury
what is the mounting components you are using and where can i get them......also barry can you do a simucube 2 sport or pro compared to the accuforce v2.....no one has that here on youtube,,thanks for a great video as usual
Barry / Folks I have narrowed my search to the Fanatec DD1 20nm ( 995 usd, ). I also have the v3 pedals, sq v1.5 shifter, handbrake, CSW v2.5 etc..BUT the Accuforce is a very good price and I already have sim commander software for Buttkiker. My only concern with the Fanatec DD1 is long term reliability...can I trust the wireless features in this new DD tech etc. I am impressed with the research and tech going into the DD1 and most likely the way I will go. However I am still open to people's concerns or suggestions?
Great review as usual. Initial impressions from people at the Fanatec event are suggesting that the Accuforce is considerably less smooth than the OSW/Bodnar (and moreso compared to Fanatec DD). Did you notice any difference in smoothness between the Accuforce and the OSW or Bodnar while driving? Thanks
Thanks for the quick reply. Would you say that this makes the OSW/Bodnar choice of motor better, or just different? Is this just what you would expect with the Accuforce being at a cheaper price point.
FFB "feel" is a very subjective thing. I don't think there is one right choice for everyone. Many factors will be in play to determine which one you like best. I suggest you try as many as you can to make up your own mind.
@@GoezTo11 As a recent Accuforce owner I would suggest if you get a chance to use the Accuforce that you have the ability to tweak the software. If you go to an expo and you use it in a comparison to something else odds are it's not tuned to your liking. When I first tried the wheel I really didn't like the feel, very grainy and unpleasant but in 15 minutes I was able to get a setting I really liked, great product.
Looking at this DD. I own Fanatec rims. Can Barry (or somebody that knows) tell me what parts were used to convert the Fana. rims to work with the AF2.
Just a thought regarding motor mounting Barry - do you think you could dispense with the Accuforce outer casing completely, and just mount the motor directly to the rig, with the four large holes on the front? Or does the casing perform a function?
Completely doable. You will have to find a way to manage the cabling. Ricmotech has a bracket that will fit the stepper motors bolt pattern, but not sure if they will sell it outside of the kit. www.ricmotech.com/Ricmotech_Direct_Drive_Wheel_Motor_Powered_by_Accu_p/rmt-ddaf-base.htm
can you please tell me how this is compared to a simucube for software, profile options, and compatibility? I like to play all games not just hardcore sims.
@sim racing garage im stuck between the most expensive belt driven wheels. Or the cheapest direct driver wheel to run on pc nd dof reality p3 with ddwheel support bracket?
Hello, thank you for this good review. May I ask that does this come with a stepper motor or servo motor? I read somewhere that says it uses a servo motor. I am really confused now. if it has a stepper motor, is it still a 1.8 deg. one or a 1.2 deg one?
The reason I ask is because when you are buying the Mige motor directly from the manufacturer, it literally only costs $20 USD more to buy the large Mige. Since I’m putting this system together myself, I figure I may as well spend the extra $30 total (includes the $20 referenced above + an additional $10 for the Meanwell 480w power supply that can peak to 720w). Seems like a no brainer.
The holes on the bottom of the housing have a ctr to ctr distance of 33mm. So, it will not line up with 40, or 10 series multi channel profiles. They do make an optional mounting bracket that you can purchase.
Very unimpressed that the PSU just sits in the box unsecured... the bits of foam are a bit of a joke. Really need to do better on that front, but other than that, the quality looks excellent!
One thing i don't like about fanatic DD is that with that price, they're using low quality capacitors which will leak in 8-10 years. AF uses good capacitors and they're in the power box not in the motor like Fanatec.
I see you're using a different wheel than the one accuforce sells. So am I right in asssuming you can mount other wheels on this DD wheel? The one thing I don't like is the wheel.
You can mount any wheel you want and you can also route the USB connection through the phone jack on the front of the base too. The pin out for the connector is on the accuforce forums. I converted a Fanatec formula v2 to USB and used a phone cord instead so it plugs right into the base.
i am not bari but i owned csl elite. and now my accuforse v2 is a completely different level. It is more precisely stronger and more reliable. this is no longer a toy. if you really like racing you will like it.
It is possible that they changed the PCB design. But not easy to tell. Motor used is the same stepper motor, with a different case design. There may be some other small tweaks here and there.
I so like your super detailed reviews Barry. I do wish you were a little more systematic about going through the products. Feel a chunk of video time is mentioning the same thing several times from going back and forth. Please don't take this as a dislike just a subscriber giving feedback. I enjoy your channel amd the fact you give all the info on every product. Keep up the great work I look forward to every new video even of products I don't use.
No worries, always happy to hear constructive criticism. I agree I can be long winded and sometimes repeat the same ideas. I just have more fun with an organic approach as compared to the clinical. And as long as I am having fun doing these reviews I will keep doing them. But, if the fun stops, then so will my desire to continue making videos for RU-vid. Trying to keep it going as long as I can, both financially and spiritually.
@@simracinggarage3026 I totally understand and hope to see videos for a long time. You are my source for product reviews and always will be. I try to make sure to like every video as I watch. To help support the great thing you do for the sim racing community. I greatly appreciate your reply as well mate.
Can confirm this. The wheel itself leaves a bit to be desired. Been wanting to convert my old fanatic wheels to it but don't know how. Really is a awesome bag for the buck system otherwise.
I used the stock suede wheel for 2 years on my V1. It only flexes if you force it forward and back, not a motion you should be doing while driving, even if you tend to push against the wheel. I will say that switching to a Sparco P310 was more than worth the cost of the wheel. Total game changer. Makes wheel feel slightly stronger due to smaller diameter, feels superb in hands, and doesnt obscure as much monitor.
I recently bought a Sport Line Competition 300mm wheel. It is really nice, of comparable quality to a Momo, and less expensive. I got mine from Crowder's LLC through Amazon.
If you haven't already found out your answer; Yes, it can be used with the PlayStation consoles. You will have to purchase a GIMX Adaptor ( $35 usd ), and run it through a PC, or laptop.
K.G Consistency is repeatability. Direct drive is more solid than belt drive, so it's more accurate. Any piece of kit that's accurate and predictable - from a sand wedge to a rifle scope - allows you greater repeatability by being one less point of variance in the system. TL;DR They wiggle less.
Typically when people say consistency they mean their lap times are less spread apart. They are not faster but their lap times are closer to each other.
The consistency I have found in using a DD wheel, as well as quality pedals, is the ability to better understand what the car is doing at any given moment and adjust. Every successive lap on a track is varied---different tire temp and wear, different entry angle and speed at a corner, different traffic, etc. The immediacy and detail of a DD wheel enables rapid, accurate reaction/adjustment to the hundreds of variables one encounters on a lap. This means more consistent lap times, and for me---far fewer slides, forays off track and wall-kissing bursts of frustration. I could make just as fast a hotlap on my T500---or even non-ffb ECCI . . . but it would be a best lap among dozens of error-filled laps more akin to guessing right for 17 corners rather than actually controlling the car. With DD, one can truly drive the car rather than guide it down the track. To me . . . that is the consistency that DD brings. Several dozen consecutive laps with no incidents with laptimes that only really vary due to tire wear and traffic.
Thanks MANshTTU, you explained it very well for me. Now I fully understand why I never felt satisfied with the laps I made with my controller. I'm not driving the car I'm just guiding it. But #poorlife so can't get even a non FFB wheel and to top it off no way in my country. I think I'll try to make that DIY FFB wheel I saw in RU-vid. Who knows maybe I'll make a DD wheel. Thanks again everyone.
@@simracinggarage3026 everyone says stepper will not work, but this work perfectly fine... do you feel any different when you hold the steering wheel betwen stepper and servo..??
Stepper motor works well. Yes you can feel the difference between the AF stepper motor and a Mige, or Kollmogen servo motor. As you should, seeing how they are different types of motors.
Running shakers off audio is just so subpar compared to SimVibe. It's hard to explain it to people, but they get it once they try it. The signal is so much cleaner and useful.
So, it's a stepper motor? Just because you've always been told servo servo servo doesn't mean it doesn't provide a good result. The guys at Simxperience have taken a stepper hybrid kit and through software/encoder created a good product. Did you hear Barry complaining about it being a stepper? No you didn't. He made comments about the lack of power vs. some other DD options but that's something we all knew as it's only 13nm. In fact Barry appeared to praise the product for the ability to get decent settings on Assetto Corsa, something he usually can't do with other DD wheels.
Why would you mount any external PSU on a motion rig? The cable has plenty of length to mount it away from the motion rig. I have mine on the wall, several feet away from my cockpit.