Activity vs. Stiffness in Telemark bindings 

I've been on tele gear for several decades...from leather lace-ups and 3-pins, to Merrell Supercomps and Superloops, to T2's and Hammerheads (and lots of other, weird combinations)...this is a good explanation of stiffness vs. activity. What most folks don't understand about the tele position is that you want to get as much of the ball of your foot on that ski as possible for maximum control. I've never understood why you would want to be tippy-toeing around on a less active binding...get that pivot point back as far as reasonably can, pair it up with a strongish spring tension (whatever is appropriate for your weight and skiing style) and learn to weight that back ski!...don't just leave it flopping around back there!

Much thanks Josh. Makes so much more sense. Been skiing tele for 25 years and never really understood why I liked some setting combinations. Now I have to mess around more with my new knowledge. Cheers!

Rainey Super Loops...got a pair, need to remount them and go ski them again and compare to newer gear. Thanks for the great content. Some of us are in lock down and very much appreciate this and anything more you might want to share! Thanks again!

Thanks for that! Pivot point, stiffness & activity = engagement.

Thanks Josh, great vid and super well explained. I've skied several of the bindings you showed and found the activity, or feeling that the binding is 'on' starts straight off the bat with the 22D OutlawX, whereas the G3 Targa needs a fair bit of skier input (dropping the knee/raising the heel) before experiencing that same feeling. I think a more active binding favours a more upright stance and the neutral bindings have a more 'backcountry' feel (I'm thinking of the days skiing in boots with the all-cow exterior). The pre-load setting options in both the 75mm and NTN bindings just moves the spring force further up the curve in Hookes' Law therefore giving more spring tension right from the start - that is obviously at the cost of reducing the spring's compression range, thus the need for stiffer springs for those folks who like their bindings firm. Also good to see you've been getting out for a slide between postings given your raccoon-eyed goggle tan ;-).

OK. So you've explained what the terms are in relation to the binding hardware. Now explain what those two things mean to the "wetware, " the skier. What type of skier would want what combination of activity and stiffness? How does the boot type and ski and conditions affect the desirability of one setup vs another? I assume a stiff boot and hard snow would want a different set up than touring boots and softer snow?

Love the vid. I read about it but didn't really understand. The video explanation is easy to understand. Thanks!

An active binding will engage the spring immediately upon lifting the boot heel, whereas a neutral binding will require the heel to be lifted some distance before engaging the spring, and thus the engaging the boot bellows allowing the power transfer to the ski. I agree with Greg Roberts below, and his thoughts on upright vs. dropping the knee/raising the heel for binding engagement. I feel like stiffer springs in the older G3 style cable routing was an attempt, at the time, to make a more active binding, and that might be a bit confusing. The BD under-the-boot cable routing was really a solution to moving the fixed pivot point a bit more toward the heel to increase the activity of the binding. A more quick activation of the spring allows for better ski control without having to get your boot sole nearly perpendicular to the board. Regardless, NTN is the way to go if you like an active binding. Thanks for the vids, Josh and company. #spreadtelemark

These are great videos- thanks.

Thanks for vid and info, on the Outlaw x what is the design/purpose of the smaller inside spring

Really nice job explaining this Josh. I’m still a 75 mm guy on an ascent set up for most days and the hammerhead (position 4) when it’s firm. Any thoughts on stiffness or activity with different conditions? I’ve related rear foot tip dive in soft conditions to more on activity point vs stiffness but now you got me wondering.

Here's the explanation. Basically it's all related to skiing style, particularly the extent of dropping the knee. And I gather that skiing style has changed to less knee drop as equipment has gotten stiffer, allowing more alpine technique while using freeheel gear. Here at Mad River Glen, a true telemark heritage site, there's a ton of freeheelers and they often use alpine technique because of the goaded, steep terrain (not to mention the scratchy conditions this year.) blisterreview.com/recommended/telemark-skiing-101/3

some neat progression, i've tele'd since 1997 and only used black diamonds riva 2, riva z and g3 targa......how are the ntn for lift served tele

So what about the height of the pivot point and the cable in regard of the sole of the boot? The G3 Targa has its springs and cables more or less alongside the neutral axis of the flexing boot. The BD O2 for instance has springs and cables underneath the sole/the neutral axis. So therefore the springs of the O2 get more enlongation for the same angle of the boot then the springs of the G3. So the O2 creates a higher torque with the same angle of the boot resulting in more pressure in the skis shovel then the G3 would. Thats why I always thought the activity of the binding comes with the height of pivot point/cable/spring and not its position reagarding the distance of the three-pin-line. Am I getting something wrong here? Or ist it both?

How do the stiffness of the plate, and the preload spacers and stiffness of the spring, impact the function of the Lynx? Specifically, I have a pair set up with the stiffer plate (small), black springs, no preload spacer, and think it feels very powerful and predictable. Have I made my bindings more active?