Your test is absolutely dog sh!t.... your feeding it a 4gauge wire....... try feeding it 0g and double 0g. At that you moron you must not know how to do anything. Feeding the amp 4g and saying hey I'm making a dyno video... with a power wire that cant even handle 1kwattts and btw I'm testing a 1600watt amp so this test is useless 🤣😂😂🤣😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣😂🤣🤣😂🤣🤣
Just came back and watched the full video on the al1600 after only catching the 1 ohm dyno runs a couple weeks ago and man thats crazy about the 4 and 2 ohm runs especially considering the bigger al2500 killed it at all ohm loads by several hundred watts and did like 3300 dynamic at 1 ohm! Still happy with my 1600s they do good as long as its a 1 ohm lol. Now im curious what it would do at .8 or .5!
Yeah I have this anp it works my Kicker comp r 12 pretty good so I am happy never overheats and is very good and clean sounding. I have my kicker wired at 4ohms. Hits hard people ask what kind of system I have and they are shocked to see a 1 12 in there. 😂
Their website did say Korean when i bought several of the AL amps including a pair of the 1600.1 And currently running one of them. To my understanding when i researched the brand back then, Audio Legion was FSD If i recall correctly prior to the name change built at the Xenon build house. skar bought AL a couple years ago I believe bc they didn’t want the competition in their build house with the SKV line of amps.
Thank you for this review! I have a stack of these that I plan on doing a build with eventually, but really wondered how they would do on a dyno. Now, I know I need to run them into the ground. You should do .8 dynamic on them to see what happens.
My Hifonics BRX2000.1D amps were wired at half ohms strapped quarter ohms per amp and they handled it and would never get hot and I turned it up all the time. I'm now using Soundqubed S1-2250.1 amplifiers strapped at one ohms. Half ohms per amp and there doing good.
@@RyanBassForLife Rise was probably horrid however I believe it with Hifonics, Their amps are "decent", Just always seem time limited like they have a component that just breaks down and blows the amp in a yearish of daily use. But I have fixed a few and they were always basic fets, gate resistors and driver transistor and good to go.
I'd say whats important to notice is where it's NOT made at, or hardly any amplifier these days (USA). And where is this allusive voltage rating at the end of ones 15+ foot run of 1/0 wire, that reads above 13v come from ?? I say all amps, regardless of their birthplace, be tested & those readings be from a normal 12.4v. The low prices of these 'new' sub amps is nice to see. I say "Shootem straight" & do these 'dynos' at a voltage every man or punk has at the end of their 15+ foot run of power wire. Hopefully it's pure copper & hopefully it's at least 1/0~ just networking in Bham
I have had 3 of these 1600.1s and 2 1200.1s and I really liked them. Wish I would have kept the 1600.1 I’m running a DM1000.1 now and it’s also a great little amp.
Eh for the price, It is Korean (Not S&I, The other one I'm drawing a blank on). The lower ohm load gain I am only assuming is because they are using beefier fets than needed and takes more power to get into their "sweet" spot. 3 power transformers seem a little much for the power as well. Many 2ks have 2 that size.
I actually own an AL1600.1 amp and 2 15 in maximas. I am absolutely impressed with the clarity and performance. Though about adding 2 15s and another 1600.
Junk!!! 10 years ago they came out with some decent Korean amps, and they have been riding on that shirt tail ever cents. Audio legion belongs at Walmart.
