Damn beast there. I wanna eventually upgrade to eithet 2 or 3 15s in my truck. Might jus do 2 15s since it will be loud for sure. Been looking at the Salt 8 or Ruthless 10k. If i do run 3 15s would be at .67 ohm load so not sure if i should run the Salt 8 or Ruthless 10k. Might do 2 15s too cuse like running 1 ohm cuse knkw it will be alot more efficent
I have owned a 4000w planet audio amp for almost 8 years to me is the best amp you can get for the price will be unfair to compare it to a $300 or $400 amp. I’m currently looking for an other amp to install in my mustang looking through amazon I found an amp call crunch with 3500w I was really interested in getting that but I watch a dyno test video in that one and it only made 180w at 1ohm so after watching this video I think i will go with planet audio again I don’t think 1200w is that bad lol I think it worth the extra $50 for 6 times the power
If only Sony DID MAKE Mack daddy RMS power Subs like this, bc I know for damn sure the Xplod 12s I had back in the mid 2000s never bumped like this _ever 😂😂😂😂😂
So question, im looking into getting the marine verison of this amp, i have two Skar EVL-65 | 6.5" 400 Watt Max 200 Watt RMS 4ohm subs, with the Amp Rating at RMS Power at 4 Ohms 370 Watts x 1 Channel, would both subwoofers get 370w if wired in series to keep 4ohm? just trying to get a better explanation about it.
As a basshead since 1989 i will say these amps are the truth Theres no doubt they are every bit as powerful in thecreal world as my 2 surge audio 10ks.i drank the " go korean kool aid" like everyone always said but these have a smaller footprint and just get down.i have 2 smart 8s on 6 18s resilient sounds.gonna be adding another to have a smart 8 per pair.just ridiculous power for the money.a korean 8k gonna run you $1000 and up.$1700 for a incriminator 8k...no thanks.they get down no doubt.if your on the fence buy it.keep your electrical up and they will serve you well.
Running the 1500.1 at the moment and tested it for months on four twelves @ 1ohm in a home theater setup and it was absolutely awesome. Moved it to the vehicle and again now for a number of months has been nothing short of a great amp and great value. Wanted just a bit more power for the subs in the vehicle and thought maybe to try something different just for the heck of it but given the reasonable price these things are going for and the fact that they make this power while staying cool and composed is just another reason to simply stick with what works and avoid the temptation to buy something more "gucci" or flashy for a bit more money.
Isn’t 1ohm stereo the same as 1/2ohm mono? If I’m correct (and I am) that amp should be able to do at least 1ohm mono. Idk maybe they have a protection mechanism to not let the amp go that low. Either that or I’m wrong (Not possible) about how it works. Anyway good video dude
@@FrankStPeter there's no way to accurately match what the dyno reads and what the clamp shows on uncertified, because the dyno doesn't stop reading. In certified, I can go frame by frame and match the clamp to the dyno when the dyno stops reading.
@@Facekicker thank you I was just curious,, The reason why I ask is because in my head if dynamic simulates music the amperage that the amp is pulling in that mode would give you a better idea of where you're charging system needs to be i.e it pulls 300 amps in certified but in dynamic it pulls between 200 and 150 you wouldn't need three 400 amp alternators this is just example numbers not saying that's what the amp just did
@@FrankStPeter it's definitely true that playing sine waves, like when in competition lanes, requires more current than music. Taramps manuals actually give two fused ratings, one for sine wave which is higher and one for music which is lower.
Could you imagine this amp in the early 90's? Price would be horrible but just think about how many of those old school woofers people could have ran on this thing lol
@@sppb32800 watts in the 90s was unreal. I ran two fultron xm300 each bridge two fosgates .. and a little Alpine 3522 for my Polk mids and highs. Of course the 5.25 mids.
Could you imagine being the “BIG MACK” with this bad boy back then and the absofuckinlute envy from EVERY SINGLE FAMOUS Car audio brand of the 90s😅😅😅 You’d have spies trying to figure out your Audio setup lol
I don't prefer these jumper wires. I would prefer buss bars. IMO, those jumper wires can potentially become a source of failure with constant vibration car audio can produce. Other than that, good video.
@@Facekicker 12:14 I'm not an electronics engineer so jumper wires might not be the official term. The black wires coming off the power supply to the output stage. and the speaker wires to the outputs terminals. If you look at the internals of a Rockford Fosgate T2500, they have a pair of bus bars, that are less susceptible to vibration damage. better board design incorporates output signal to the terminals via traces, instead of using wires. I'm sure this increased the price, but I'm willing to pay it, for a more robust design. this design is ok for an vibration free indoor environment, but those are low cost manufacturing processes for a product that has to survive the rigors & vibrations of mobile environment . It's just my preference. Thx for the video BTW...
@@johnstarks5323 The black wires are the secondaries to the rectifiers. I will almost bet you will lose transistor legs to vibration long before ever losing the secondaries or the output wires.
@@ellensburgamplifier You make a compelling point, , I did see a guy that burned threw a speaker wire that rubbed against the transistor retention clamp on his amp. if you look at the orion 2500dz that's the design I prefer. no internal wires, just 2 bus bars. it's just my preference.
