I started off adding a used turn signal switch to my CJ-2A Willys Jeep, and ended up adding a tow bar and trailer connectors also. Now I think the wiring on this Jeep is safe for road use!
Aside from your sense of humor, what I like about your videos is how you take the time to reuse and repair stuff to use. We live in a world where people don’t repair they replace. Everything is considered to be disposable.
Possibly your best video yet! Love the training, love the Jeep (as always) And look at you, getting all fancy with turn signals on a Willys! Very impressive!
I really appreciate that, I'm glad you liked it! Its almost strange being able to just jump in it and drive somewhere. Maybe its time to start modifying...
37 years of teaching industrial arts and still learning. My grandson picked up a FUBAR 46 Willys and is hitting me up for guidance. At any rate, 6 volt to 12 volt. Now lighting and figuring out exactly what you did. Amazing help. I like your sense of humor as well! Obviously you been there. Do like your use of old when you can. Of course, I do tell the boy to use the research...it's much easier today! Thanks.
For the tow light configuration on my jeeps i interrupted the wires going to the back with a triple pole, double throw toggle switch. Takes care of the directionals and taul lights. Grainger's
between this and the wiring video, it just made my wiring redo on my 65 cj5a ALOT easier. I did have the trailer harness laying around also. Makes things so much easier! Love the flatties! Still want one!
Obviously this was a year ago, so you may have realized by now that you wired it wrong: When you hit the brakes you have no turn signal in the rear, because the lights will be on constantly - and from what you showed, you didn't test that the turn signal works when the brakes are pressed, which it won't when you're only using basic diodes. In order for it to be wired correctly, the turn signal switch needs to disable the brake light power to the side you're flashing. Effectively the brake lights need to be wired through the turn signal switch, so when it's in neutral, the power is free to go to both sides, and then when you indicate left, the brake light power to the left is cut off and power is sent to the turn signal relay instead, and vice versa for the right side. It appears the turn signal switch you added is for separate turn signal and brake light curcuits, and won't work with a combined circuit unless you get a bit more creative with the wiring.
The trailer light adapters are awful. They would work, fail, work again, then fail; always inexplicably and for random periods. When the replacement went nuts after a short time, I only connected the piece of crap for towing so even if it was on the fritz I had plausible deniability for Johnny Law.
It's the standard for small trailers as well. A 4 pin connector is usually green, yellow, brown, and white, a 5 pin adds a blue for electric trailer brakes, and a 7 pin adds a black and a red for 12V power and backup lights.
At first I thought that was my old jeep! Same color, etc. But mine was a 45 GPW with hood and grill from a 2A and didn’t have tail gate etc. I sold it in 1998 when I was still in Alaska. Brought back memories though.
Nice work with the blinker switch install. Wiring is one thing that holds me back on my projects. I just plain and simple don't get it 🤷♂ Glad you could fit the tow bar also. Take care and happy wrenching 🔧🔩
Thanks! I've noticed that a lot of people shy away from wiring, that's why I figured I'd dig a bit deeper on some electrical videos and maybe that'll help.
white is gound in trailer wiring to. they often change after someone has had to digg through the wiring but not always. that light is for trailer marker lights.
Enjoyed the video, good explanation of wiring; Two questions 1. Where did you get your rear lights (brake and signal) 2. What did those seats come out of? Keep doing what you do !!
Thanks! I got the lights from Wheeler Fleet Solutions, but a lot of other places sell them, they're kind of generic for trucks and trailers. The seats are replacements for a forklift, got them off ebay.
@15:37 you will love those led lights…. I used them on a Kawasaki mule assume! Myself I used the rubber grommets for them! They an come with plastic covered with crome.
I love that CJ2a found one on FB here in Ar near me $9500 fresh yellow paint old NDT tires IIRC you paid 950 for that red one. Im about to tackle the wiring on my 66 AMC wagon took for ever to get brake parts for the thing.
What about brakes on, plus using a turn signal. Thats what all the fancy circuitry in the uhaul box does. As is, if you hit the brakes, your rear lights will be on solid with no turn indicator.
Yes, exactly. When there's only two lights in the back, I want braking to be the priority indicator. I want to make sure people behind me know that I'm slowing down, because being rear-ended is the most likely danger. In situations where you need the turn signal light to be seen, like changing lanes, you're not using the brakes anyway, so then the turn signal is most visible.
Love the don't be scared to fix stuff make it work again approach. Its old where are the new parts for old stuff? No worries old stuff can be fixed with new approach.
31:56 отрезай у пластиковой бутылки верхнюю часть и насыпай туда мелочёвку - это удобнее чем хранить мелочёвку в пакетах, как пробку для обрезанной бутылки можешь использовать смятый пакет
I never realized how much I would like seeing your wiring “schematic” haha very helpful. Could you possibly do a small recap with drawing on the hi beams and low beams again? My cj5 has a two position switch and first position is running lights and gauges and second position is hi beams. I don’t really understand if I need a floor switch or what kinda setup the previous owner had or if he just set it up to brights all the time. All the wiring is new… but no floor switch. I’m just a little lost on the best way to not blind the neighbors
I'd guess he wired it for off-road use only, and didn't need low beams. You need a switch that has one input and two outputs, like the floor switch or even a SPDT switch on the dash. Take the wire that currently goes to your headlights, and run it to the input on that switch. Then run one output to your high beams, and the other to your low.
@@LowBuckGarage well good news, I gave it a shot. Well not really. My speedometer went out so I fixed that… then decided instead of seeing that my brights are on all the time I took the bulb and just put it in the back light socket. Ha, problem solved! Low-Buck style 😅
My 2 cents, I run sealed beams and the way new car lights are the best way I've found is to just aim the highbeams down and forget the lows, you'll just be blinded by new cars if youre running sealed lows.
If there is a round rubber wheel at the top of your switch housing, mount the switch so it contacts the steering wheel! When you use your turn signals, then they will automatically turn off!
Why get into all that complication with diodes? Why don't you just use separate indicator lights (or turn signals, as you call them) at the rear? Here in England it is illegal to have the brake lights and indicators working off the same bulb.
Hi! If you answer comments, please tell me some basic info on the motorcycle you had in that 3rd trailer near the end of this video. I've never seen a Honda like that, and would appreciate any help on finding one for myself! Thanks
As far as I know that's the only one! I built it out of a Honda Twinstar and ATC. I did a video on it if you're interested: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8rktULsdGvc.html
I like the rusty junk repairs. I know you wont answer this but I'm asking anyway. What do you do for a living? Do you live off RU-vid monthly checks or did you inherit large amounts of cash. All the land, the cars , the parts, Just living cost so much !! How do you do it????????????????????????????????
@@LowBuckGarage cool! I work maintenance at a food packaging plant. A little bit of everything happens in my day. Sometimes a whole lot of nothing. I would be honored to have you as on of My valued subscribers.
I like Rustoleum, mainly because its cheap and in every store around here. Any brand rust stop type paint seems to dry really slowly, which lets it soak into whatever crud is on the surface. Also, it isn't too glossy, so it hides a lot of dents and waves in the metal.
love Jeep now linseed oil under all, splash IT ON. Metal , rubber, plastic , loves linseed oil. keeps water out. paint no good, shrinks and swells diferent than metal pulls away from metal lets wet in and holds it. worse than bare, .
