Adding additional sockets to existing ringmain. Cjrelectrical 

A level head and analytical mind regarding trouble shooting is essential in electrical, mechanical, gas and pneumatic work. Anything involving high levels of energy and safety risk. I have seen people come to grief when rushed or in a poor state due to tiredness or "night before" concerns. I worked in a computer factory where all the heavy demanding work was done on Tuesdays to Thursdays, leaving Mondays and Fridays for general tidying up and paperwork. It was there on wiring jobs that I found out about the varying quality of output done on Mondays (not good) and Wednesdays ( the best ) and the absolute imperative need to keep a clear head when dealing with electrical work.

Glad you like them!

Thank you 👍

exactly it's about how it tests out. The NICEIC site doesn't even allow 7/.029-3/.029 as an option for test results. Bastards. It's fucking FINE. They're just after everyone's money. Bitter? HELL YES

Good point Darren I agree but I will say is the new usb sockets on the market now fit within the 25mm back box.

Maybe

I do it for those reasons if I can. Ring continuity is so important if you're stuck with ring final circuits. Only issue is needing to fit cpc sleeving.

Yeah. Although the wires don’t have anywhere to move in them. You could use earth tape.

That’s the best way I do the same

Real world mate sorry

35mm are bad enough for sockets, I second using the 50 on the front end.. but that's me. Cracking job all the same.

And then client calls later and asks one to be swapped for usb socket... bugger!

Click usb compatible with 25mm box

@@Cjrelectrical Fair play, I'll give them a check, I usually use Schneider, probably could put it on a 25mm but I always worry about wires getting pinched in a tight box.

🥱

It looked like the second box tries to slide inside. maybe put the rear box backward so they are back to back it would be more stable.

What's wrong with dry lining boxes? Chris said he didn't like them but I'm not sure why.

@@tobysherring1369 wasn't it because they're plastic? Not a sparky myself but seems odd the regs say metal boards now, but plastic dry wall back box is OK? Bit odd if you ask me.

@@ItzD3fW1sH that could be it. But plastic faceplates and plastic conduit are still allowed. Where do you stop?

@@tobysherring1369 well that's it isn't it where do you draw the line. We just had a rewire and now have metal hager box. Guy said there's nout wrong with the old one we had... But regs were regs.

I think this is personal preference. If you fit metal boxes then you can be confident that your socket won't get insulated over. You also don't have to remember exactly where you left your cables in the wall in order to cut in your box. And you won't start cutting in the box to find studwork or other obstructions in the way. Metal boxes fixed solidly to a wall (or noggin) also tend to be a bit more solid when screwing back the faceplate. Not to say there aren't good reasons to use dry lining boxes too, just that I can see why he chose to fit metal this time.

@@TheMattSturgeon Thanks for the reply. I take your point about personal preference. I was just thinking that if the client is batoning and insulating because of damp or condensation problems then attaching metal boxes to the cold wall may bridge the thermal gap and be somewhere warm moist air could condense. Also I find cutting plasterboard fit perfectly around an existing box is more of a faff than cutting new and pulling the cables through. But in this case Chris isn't fitting the plasterboard :-)

Install it to what your customer wants.. if sockets are 300mm off shirt put yours in at that what change the height of 1or 2 sockets fir the sake of what the regs say?!.. it’s only guidance

It’s not a new build mate it’s a refurbishment so part m does not apply here.

That attitude was/is arrogant and just breeds resentment IMHO. Not all the old days were good.

Mortar rake

Yeah, pure water isn't a great conductor - try checking the resistance of distilled water some time!

@@tonyjover Add salt and minerals for extra spice lol.

Tony Quinsee-Jover hi sir yes you’ve definitely got a point , still I don’t think I’d like to put it to the test all the same 😄 I suppose it’s an electricians constant belief that water and electricity don’t make good bed fellows . Thank again for replying. Best wishes and kind regards from Mike in the U.K.

Yeah good for plastering but not plaster boarding.

Where on earth did you get that from?

@@lewis94uk Probably confused it with TRS or VIR singles.

Superb

They're only allowed in the UK if they are either accessible or maintenance free - a fairly recent standard that is deemed to not need future attention.

Yet I find a sht ton of them anyways imagine if it was code

Probably be cheaper to get access from the plasterboard ceiling underneath if they had unterlocking floor. Obviously if it was ground floor your goosed!

I mean sometimes it's the only way

It's a good debate. Where practible yes but laying direct on plaster in a ceiling is a known method.

@@tresslerj1985 OK so it's not fire regs to have them clipped? I was always under the impression that it poses an electric hazard to fire fighters incase of a collapse of the ceiling in a fire because live wires will be hanging down, am I wrong? I'm literally just asking a question aswel so don't crucify me I'm not a sparky and havnt got that much knowledge of electrics so appreciate any feedback

Probably not on older buildings as say if it's under floorboards rewiring you wouldn't be able to get every single floorboard up for example to get at the cables to clip them, they would be drawn in especially lifting carpets and furniture as well. And if in the loft they would mostly be layed between the joists. It could also depends on how much time the electrician was given to wire the house if they have say quite a few to wire. Obviously any new builds would be stricter where to place cable. Sorry I can't give a regulation number off hand NEW builds are likely to be different with building & Electrical regulations.

If it was me I’d be back to clip them all

@@paultipton743 OK that's great thanks for your take on the situation, suppose it makes sense really as like you say he couldn't really access every Joist but he has had most of the floor up but still, I'm not going to slate the bloke over a few clips if it's acceptable in circumstances thats good with me 👍

Sorry about that

I do own one but it’s a pain sorry

Seamed more like a body cam today.

No the consumer unit is full and quite a long run from the bedroom. The circuit also fed downstairs so would of been a Rewire of 3/4 of the house sockets

Really sorry I do have a go pro and head cam but quicker and easier for me to use the phone

@@Cjrelectrical Ahh dont be sorry, we all know what its like when your on the job fella!

Looks like an offcut of 15mm copper pipe

@@JohnWatkinsUK was going to type that lol, any tips for finding work experience in the uk for electricians?

Wondered where I lost mine

@@JohnWatkinsUK that still doesn't exclude it

Sorry about that

Can recommend the Imex LX22G Cross Line green beam Laser

How can the copper tarnish if it's tinned?

Imperial T&E PVC twin Older T&E wiring having fairly similar construction to today's cables. Conductors were stranded & tinned to prevent reaction with rubber insulation. These old cables had a bit smaller earth wires than today's. They were also available with no earth conductor. Several versions exist: Ashathene T&E Polythene sheath, precursor to PVC T&E Lasts well PVC outer VIR inner an early T&E cable where the inner rubber has failed, the tails can be sleeved 2 core Twin no earth, used for lighting circuits, or power circuits with a separate (usually uninsulated) single run alongside to provide an earth conductor. PVC and ashathene versions of this cable last well and are usually in good condition, but rubber does not last well long term. PVC outer rubber inner cable can have its rubber ends sleeved to make it safe, as its only the ends where exposed to air where the rubber becomes brittle and falls off. Cable with rubber outer insulation can not be made safe this way. Sizes: 1/.044" T&E = 1 mm² 3/.029 T&E means 3 strands each of 0.029" diameter used for lighting circuits 1.27 mm² 3/.036 = 1.94 mm² 7/.029 T&E imperial 7 stranded version of 2.5mm² T&E used for socket circuits until unstranded 2.5mm T&E was introduced around 1970 strands are 0.029" diameter = 0.74mm xsa 2.9 mm², rated 25A continuous in 14th edition (with a rewirable fuse) 7/.036 = 4.5mm² 7/.044 = 6.5mm² unstranded lighting cable also used 7/.052 = 9.35mm² 7/.064 = 14.5mm² Red T&E Early 1970s

@@Cjrelectrical thanks, Chris, my point with the previous commenter was that the idea of tinning is that it inhibits corrosion. I was hoping he would come back with some counter arguement to back up his comment

Totally agree the cable once cut back and made off again was in fantastic condition better in fact than newer twin and earth.

@@Cjrelectrical Sorry I got dyslexic and thought it was the copper platted onto tin wires.

Not on this occasion I was lucky 👍

Every electrician loves looking at the wall for several minutes. It's the only time we get to think!

This must be every single house in the uk will a 15mm hole cause that property any problems .... who knows

sorry

What hazard are you suggesting he is failing to protect himself against?

I do normally wear them but I have a bad knee at the moment which the boots don’t help. Lighter boots needed.

Just because it's a domestic job doesn't mean that you shouldn't wear appropriate PPE. Walking around a partial floor where there may be exposed nails, large splinters etc, handling drills, knives etc that can fall on your feet... my risk assessment would call for safety footwear.

@@JimWhitaker I suggest you watch the video again, You cant tell me wearing safety boots would be the less safe alternative than shoes ?

All the floors were cleaned and hoover out after the job was finished the customer is taking every bit of plaster off the walls to batten our insulate and plasterboard. Thanks for the comment

@@Cjrelectrical Well you will have to let me know what vacuum cleaner can get down between a 2-3cm gap between the wall and joist to remove the crap that was totally unnecssarily put there. And you would not have to spend a lot of time hoovering it all up if you had prevented it getting there in the first place ! Sorry mate, no brainer.

All locations that were chased out had open floors the one that james did had a gap of about an inch easily accessible with my long hoover attachment.

@@Cjrelectrical Well look at it from purely a time pespective. You'd rather spend money employing your guy (or you) to spend time sucking up all the debris with your hoover (which will probably clog up regularly) than collect the debris as it is created by putting a sheet or old towel down so you can transfer it to a bucket in seconds ? I know which method I use. If you are chopping out in a room that still has carpet and furniture in it do you bother with dust sheets ? Or prefer to let everything get covered in dust so you can hoover it up and wipe the furniture down later ? Professionalism in the way you work is not just about how good you think you are at your particular trade/skill.