You sir are a savior. I was a bit worried about how hard it'd be to run an amp.and subwoofer setup when I got my 2015 Q50 last week, you've taken that worry away. Thank you.
Idk if you still have your Q but being that your video helped me out installing my amp and sub I wanted to give you a sound piece of advice. Dump that kicker passive LOC and buy an audio control LC1i. HUGE gain in performance. Night and day difference from the kicker loc. Before my amp was turned almost all the way up. Now I have it turned about ¼ of the way up and I have cleaner sound and more low end. I thought these active LOC's were all hype but now im a believer 😆. Also for anyone having low idle hum, its the mic located under the headliner light and sunglasses holder that is causing it. Just pop down that light and unplug the noise-canceling mic. The noise canceling will still work because there is a mic in the back as well but the one in the front causes the hum.
Bruh. You could've skipped on the LOC altogether if you used an amp with speaker level inputs. Now, if you have a particular amp you want to use that doesn't have 'em, that's one thing. But if you're shopping around, just get right amp and you're good. Save money and time on the loc. Also, it might be worth checking out the owc harnesses in the future if you want a pnp connection.
@prestige8161 I've run high level inputs directly into amps before. My old truck used to be wired up like that. You usually don't see that option on modern amps with LOC's being so inexpensive.
@@UnburdenedByWhatHasBeen On a lot of the modern amps, the high level inputs are built into the RCA jacks (like the Alpine R-A75M amp i'm pushing). I think that's why most people miss it. Everyone from back in the day is used to RCAs only being for low level. Gotta check the amp to be sure.
Nice clean install! Brings me back to the mid 90s with these subs. Only thing I would be concerned with is I'm in FL and would be worried about that amp overheating in that location. I've got a M45s with a aftermarket head unit setup that I was thinking bout adding the skar evl 12.
man the g37 was so loud i was so dissapointed with the bass on the Qs. but definitely something that can be fixed very easily so i am not worried at all, either way i always buy aftermarket and add some trunk bangers
does this amp come with a remote to control the bass output of just the skar sub in the trunk? or when you turn up the bass on the radio up front it turns all the bass of on all of the speakers?
Yup, both actually. It comes with a remote bass control knob which controls gains on only the sub. You can also use the bass controls on your radio which would affect all speakers including the sub.
The 2017 q50 has a second battery on the left side of the trunk. It would probably be much easier to install than routing the power cable to the battery under the hood! I found this out when installing mine
@@SquareWheelsAuto The non-hybrid has a second battery in the back. I *heard* that it's there to provide enough fast-cranking power for the engine stop/start system, but I have not confirmed that. I'm currently trying to find out if the rear battery is simply wired in parallel with the front battery or if it's somehow isolated. If the latter is the case, you might not want to use it for audio.
right? it may be legit tho, I’ve torn up my trunk since then and there’s definitely a perfect cutout to fit a battery, it’s where I ended up putting my aux batt 😈
@@SquareWheelsAuto I was kinda iffy when I seen on Amazon all them blowing up and catching fire. But some are really good reviews but I’m going to take a chance on it. Lol 😂
I got the premium Bose and I also have the same setup but with an upgrade 12 inch subwoofer from skar. Let me tell you it's bangs it sounds good 🔥🔥🔥 totally recommend
If you add a subwoofer does it keep the bass from the Bose or no? Or does it completely turn off the bass from the bose? I want buy and add a subwoofer to my q60 but I want the bass from the Bose to be heard too
@Honest Review - if you wire your amp and sub as shown in this video, your Bose system will have no idea that a subwoofer is added, so it will behave exactly the same. All the fine tuning, center point, driver sound stage etc will be retained.
Thx man for showing how to install a sub but I just got to ask you how you put the video on your screen I have an infinity and I don’t know how to put videos on my screen so if you can show us how you can do I I will appreciate thx man
@Elguerro2008 started with this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wUAs0IwxbEc.html ended up with one of these: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mp3OE77U0AY.html
Yeah the concept is pretty much the same for all cars. You'll just need to figure out the appropriate places to tap because the harnesses and wire colors might be different
Any issues with the amp placement in terms of too much heat, not enough air, etc? I love the location but don't wanna fry my amp🤣 $550 a little rough to replace
Haven't had any issues at all. Whenever I go back there the amp isn't even warm. I read somewhere that's not much of an issue anymore for modern class D amps. Don't quite me on that though, YMMV!! 😅
@@liloversteer7308 the RP series covers many different amps, and most of them are class D. Class D amps generate virtually no heat - all energy is transferred to the load. Mine is cool to the touch, even after pushing them, covered, for 6+ hours.
@@SquareWheelsAuto every rp class d ive had/ ran into get extremely hot... idk if its how you had urs tuned but mine wasnt clipping and got very hot. i was also running a big 3 with a 2nd agm battery in the trunk. im not sure what caused it, but the rp800 lasted like 2 years
What are your thoughts about M45-like shoulder mounted tweeters, 2 on each front seat? I had that in a M45 back in the day, and thought it added a lot to certain music. Do you think it's doable? This isn't in my wheelhouse so I don't know.
@@SquareWheelsAuto I'm thinking if Bose/infiniti did it, it can be done. Cut out and de-foam the dimensions of the tweeter. Run the wires down the sides of the seat. Meet those wires with the under floor harnesses. Route to head unit or amp. My biggest concern is integration and control.
Lovethe instal video.Going to install a sub now.its beeen years since ive wired up any car but i cant wait to do this now Appreciate the video.Where did you get you car mats??
So I bet this isn’t gonna get a reply but it’s worth a try. I did everything you did but sub is super quiet. I even went out to go buy an LOC and same thing. Amp powers on and I can feel the sub playing but it’s super quiet any idea what that could be?
Best Buys a week ago wouldn't install my after market amplifier and subwoofer... both of which are just between 360-400 RMS nothing crazy. I wanted to keep the stock BOSE system. He stated my speakers will blow. How are your speakers now since the install and has it enhanced your sound experience? any power issues? My car is 2015 Infiniti Q50 Hybrid .. the battery is in the back but the truck space is small compared to normal Q50
Sorry man but this made me laugh. I'd love to have them try to explain that one to me. How could an aftermarket amp/sub make your factory speakers blow???? The systems are essentially independent and have no affect on one another. I've installed aftermarket amp/subs on every car since my first, a 1987 Dodge Omni. It's a very common practice. To answer ur questions directly, my speakers are still in pristine condition and I've had no power issues.
@@SquareWheelsAuto exactly what I thought. It’s like I paid you to perform a service; here’s my parts ..do it. He didn’t do it, just shady explanation after shady explanation I was alright just nod and smile then go. Ended up refunding the service vouchers and thought next steps. Thanks
@@vsar223 NICE. You're better off in the long run by not letting the wrong person touch your car. This is a fun, low risk, weekend project. 3-4 beer maximum installation time. 🍻
Love ya car and set up man. I just scooped a 2017 Q50 (BOSE). I previously had a 4k watt system in my Honda Accord with a JS H.O. Alternator and XS Power Extra Batt. Looking to swap my system over just can't find someone who customizes HO Alts for the Q50. Any thoughts or directions to make the 4k work in the Q50? Got my sub btw💪🏾
@SquareWheels Automotive my line output converter came with the 4 speaker wires, a power, ground, and remote wich I ran to the power, ground, and remote into the amp. That was the problem I just capped those wires to the converter and only used the speaker wires and it works great. Not sure why it comes with them if u dnt need them. Great video tho brotha everything else went fine thanks to you i just had a different type of converter. Getting that power wire through the backseat was sumn else. Used a flashlight to find that hole then pushed a hanger from the trunk into the back seat then taped the power wire and pulled it through.Thanks again for the video
Rookie here just replacing my original bose amp in my q50 after replacing fuses didn’t do the trick(new fuses immediately blew). Your video helped me locate the amp after infiniti service wanted to charge 2200$ to replace the amp! Should I disconnect the amp from power as I do it?
Glad the vid helped!!! If u think it's the amp making the fuse blow, it shouldn't matter. Please post up how the swap goes man I always wondered if they have to be programmed/resyncd. Good luck!!!! 🤞🏽
Brother, thank you for the video. I have a question for you. Have you had any issues with the amp overheating since the amplifier is located in the spare tire compartment? I'll be installing two Alpine KTP445u power pack amps to boost my front doors, rear doors and aft shelf 3.5" speakers. I am hoping to install them where you installed your amp, thus the question. Like you, I needed a little more bass so I installed a small powered sub (with an LC21 Pro line output converter) to my 2016 Q50 Red Sport and have loved the the difference it has made. The install is clean and I've lost nearly no trunk space. I did have to turn off my ANC (active noice control) but that was simple. By the way, I've created wire diagrams (using PowerPoint of all things) for my entire set up if anyone is interested.
No heat issues whatsoever. I think it's because the amp I used is Class D?? No matter how long or hard I run it, it stays cool to the touch. Enjoy man!!
@@cristianmota5405 Below is the link to the folder that contains the PDF of all the sound mods I have made. This PDF includes the wire diagrams I created, pictures, and a portion of the "Audio, Visual" section of the Service Manual for the 2016 Infiniti Q50. I am not sure if any changes have been made to later (or prior) years, so you might need to verify. I have installed the powered sub (as you might have read already), an amp for the front door speakers, and one amp for the rear doors/aft shelf. I do not think I will be installing the Center Amp since (I believe) the junky Bose amp seems to focus most of its power on the front center (dashboard) speakers. The system sounds nice with the factory speakers but I do plan on upgrading most of the speakers in the future. Here is the link to the PDF (Updated 03/30/2022): 1drv.ms/b/s!Au42u7eTh78BmdVrjqaDdSdOWKbNQg?e=NqlGKW
Nope. If you have ANC it will cause this. Try disabling in your infotainment menu, and if it works, permanently kill ANC by disabling the ANC microphone.
@@SquareWheelsAuto Oh ok. How do wire about the subs and amp I was looking for that in the video but I don’t think you record it. Also what was that kicker black box I don’t think that comes in the kit
@@Awsometiger1011 yup it's just a standard sub install after that. Plenty of how to install a sub vids on YT, I just covered what makes it unique on a q50. The black box is the line out converter from your speaker signal to ur amp. Hit me on IG @veeqfiddy happy to talk u thru it if U get stuck
I got the all the same parts as you installed on my Q50. I am getting a thump from the subwoofer when I turn off the car. Does/did this ever happened to you? Thank you.
Hey man I’m new to all of this and I wanted to install my system myself I have the same products you have … how do I hook the power wire to the battery ??
Emblem is dipped in this video. I got a black LED one recently as part of my headlight project. Check out that vid, there's a link to the emblem there!
Could be better that way? I'm not a pro installer or audiophile, just a guy with a Q. I do know this setup has been rattling my mirrors cleanly and consistently for over a year 👍🏾
@@SquareWheelsAuto that’s good that nothing bad has happened. If I decide to keep mine (2014 Q50 with the Bose), I might do it before the amp and also disconnect the factory sub so I don’t blow it up when the lows hit.
@@clarks2001 I'm no pro, but I know enough to know there's literally no chance of that happening. All you're doing is piggybacking the low frequency signal from the factory sub. There's nothing getting sent *to* it.
@@SquareWheelsAuto I’m definitely no pro either. But thank you for the clarification. I’ve got an alpine type r (older model) and a 1000w mono amp just waiting for me to install but was always afraid I’d mess something up. I’ve done many installs on all my other vehicles but they never had premium systems in them so the Q is new territory for me on audio. Also, I’m on the fence about the “Tesla screen”. Being a 2014, it’s not capable of a PnP CarPlay module, which I need. I’m not sure if Phoenix has one that has CarPlay though but seen something about one that had it.
@@clarks2001 I do know a thing or two about those 😅 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UnAJlgdZ0So.html Carplay support included, no need for additional accessories: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q_krcJmG4Fo.html
Yes factory signals and wiring are all intact. I spliced (google posi-tap) the factory wiring so it would still send signal to the factory sub. I actually ended up removing the factory sub to let more sound flow into the cabin. I'll reinstall it when I return the vehicle to stock form.
But I installed the specific loc you mentioned, and I also tapped the remote signal as well, only the remote worked, I didn’t get any sound through my sub
I’m 100 💯 sure that I did all good and nice but when I started my car the center console was off and the radio I checked the fuse is a 10a but it heat up what could that be
Pretty much the same process just the sources are in different locations. Tap the audio signals from behind the head unit, and I think the lighter socket provides a good remote relay signal
@@Officialfabreeze hmmm not sure, I’ve never heard non Bose before. If it was me, I’d start with a sub first, and if my mids/highs were noticeably lacking afterwards, I’d upgrade. Tbh I’ve never felt the need to upgrade factory component speakers, but I’m no audiophile either 🤔
Couldn't agree more! I want to do this to mine, thanks for posting. I have a 2018 Q50RS with Bose...not a big fan. It helps if you fade slightly to the back, otherwise the front sound bar and mid-bass overwhelm the rear sub. But it's still pretty weak sauce. Trunk room is already on the smallish side. :( But I'd give some up for deeper bass.
Still no complaints from this Skar setup! I have the bass gain knob set to like 5% and it’s the perfect amount of bump for day-to-day. Good luck, thx for watching!!
The only rattle I had was with the license plate holder. I always use 3M double-sided tape on both the license plate holder, as well as the license plate, to eliminate those rattles.
Hey bro nice video, I'm glad my diy guide on the q50 forum helped you. I know that image anywhere when people msg me on fb :). Btw you might want to replace those t-taps because the sub with rock those t-taps and make it loose and won't bite into the wire. Make it seem like the amp or sub blown but it will be that t-tap. Just a suggestion
I had this installed before I got my Tesla screen: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wUAs0IwxbEc.html Dude you're gonna want to see my interior lighting project when I'm done. It pops extra on the cream interior. Stay tuned!!
Thinking back to the install - I think the remote wire they provided was pretty puny. I still used it and have had no issues since, but that's literally the only complaint.
I did my install just like this and it worked for around 30 minutes and then my system cut off, decides to just buy a new amp since mine was old anyways and the new amp isn’t reviving power, any ideas or recommendations?
I've upgraded to the latest Tesla screen now, but for this video I was running the smartautokits: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wUAs0IwxbEc.html
I’m getting a loud rumbling sound from my sub. Can anyone tell me how to disable the Active Noise Cancellation in a 2018 Q50? There is no option in my secret menu to do so.
This is great, but I just used a harness i got from owc upgrades. Just plugs right into the stock sub/amp and then to my new Alpine R-A75M amp. I did have them install rcas on the wiring to plug in and look clean. Definitely worth checking out imo. Car thumps now.
@@theripper121 They're pricey because they're custom made and really high quality. A rare thing these days. The way I see it is I would've spent a bunch of time wiring it up, cutting into my car, or pay out the a$$ to have a local shop in my area hack into my car. For me it was well worth it. Plus, I like that it's reversible in case I sell the car.
To each his own I guess. There are other ways to accomplish the same end result that are significantly cheaper. Again at the end of the day you do you but that harness is more than what most people are paying for their amps. I could never justify that.
@@theripper121 Yeah, different mindset for sure. Because I really like the quality and value of it. The least expensive one for the Q50 is like 90 bux. And the premium version (i bought) is 115. My amp cost me about $325. Unless you're goin for the cheapest of the cheap setup, 90 bux is nothing for a high-quality setup that clicks in 2 seconds, gives me awesome signals, and maintains the value of my car. How would you accomplish that cheaper without wasting a bunch of time?
@@SquareWheelsAuto I just got this enclosure for Christmas and plan on installing it this week. Do you still have the factory Bose speakers inside? If so how do they sound with the added bass?
@@MrKINGSHT205 still running all the factory Bose, they sound great. Sub gain is turned to like 10% and it balances the whole system out. Congrats, nice gift!! 🙌🏾
Why couldn't you just steal power/switch from the lines to the factory amp? I did this in my old Maxima and it withheld perfectly fine. Just asking....
@squareheadrob2587 I get that. I guess it depends on the amp. I was running a single powered 10" Bazooka tube flawlessly, but I suppose something with more power would require a dedicated line
Hi brother. Love all your videos. Wanted to know since you have the mark 5. How’s your subs and or system hooked up. I have the mark 5 but the factory engine noise they pump In is ruining everything. Can’t access secret menu because I installed the mark 5. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hmmmm you should still be able to access the secret menu through intouch. Have you tried that? I don't have the fake exhaust/ANC sound, but I've heard of other people that cut the microphone in the headliner to disable it?
@@SquareWheelsAuto thanks, this sub looks good but I plan on getting bags on my Q and want to have a trunk still lmao. Also I think I have the same mats as you but mine don't stick to the "walls" next to your legs, did you use velcro or some type of adhesion for this?
@@enriqueramos2554 I feel you! I considered doing an infinite baffle sub in the ski pass through, that could be an option! For the mats, I tucked the edges under the plastic trim pieces all around to make them "stick" 😎👍🏾
I'm a bit confused on the Kicker step, what's the purpose of connecting the Red(with white stripe) and blue together with the white junction box ? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fAkCs7Ylcjc.html
I have a quick question I have a 2014 q50a and don’t have the Bose system so you can only imagine my shit sound I was trying to do this but I don’t have a amp so I’m not to sure where to install the remote cable
U could tap anywhere that only gets power when the car is on. The positive wire going to cigarette lighter ports are perfect for this. Disclaimer: haven't done this myself
