What a cool process using baking soda! Who woulda thunk! Thank you for all your artistic tips and tutorials! You show us how to create beautiful pieces with such ease and your calm yet fun-loving demeanor makes you a pleasure to watch! It feels like you're just hanging out with us! Cheers from a fellow Canuck on the West Coast!
Andrea: Thank you for tuning in and for your kind words! Always good to connect with a fellow Canuck!! I love the finish with the baking soda! Although there are products you can buy that give you this textured look they are far more costly. I like the affordability and availability of this option for viewers. Know too that clean fine sand gives a cool finish - just not as easy to nab as a trip to the grocers!
Hello from Australia! I love your cement look urn, it's a perfect cement finish and so easy! I have a question - if I wanted to put that urn outside not in a full weathered spot but some, what would you recommend as a top coat? Thank you again for such an easy faux cement look :)
You are so welcome... thanks for tuning in! Here in Canada (Ontario), I would bring it in during the winter months (snow is no one's friend) and during the summer I would have it outside but would use an outdoor sealer. From our local hardware store I typically pick up the Diamond Wood Finish in Satin coat (would get a flat if I could!) from Varathane. It has held up well for me so far.
The decision about the sealer is dependent upon 'where' you are looking to use them. Mine were going to be used indoors so I used wax, though could have used any Polycrylic... if you're planning on having them hold up to outdoor weather than I do recommend a couple of coats of a good outdoor sealer.
Baking Soda is awesome and has tons of uses including fires. One of my precious angel started a fire on accident in one of our rooms. The flames were huge, with thick black smoke. I had an open bag on the kitchen counter (i was filling a contain that we use in the shower and tub instead of soap. its awesome on the skin). I threw handfuls toward the flames and immediately they were snuffed out. It took almost 2 5lb bags, but it put out a fire that normally would have taken a 911 call to the fire dept. i'm not anti fire dept. but i do know that if they came, everything in that room would have been smoke fire and water damaged and would have been thrown out. Instead I lost a nice couch, the blinds that melted and a few other items. Everything else just needed to be washed. Baking soda is awesome even in the laundry. Now I can use it instead of salt wash. Thank you for the video. I hope you didn't mind me sharing.
Theresa, I thank you for sharing and welcome future shares! Thank goodness you had that amount of baking soda on hand! Certainly by the time the fire department would have arrived, no matter how quick, so much more would have been lost to the flames. Best tool in the kitchen for grease fires too. I have often debated carrying Saltwash in the shop but I decided not to since I really find that Baking Soda does as good a job!
@@QueenBeeCreationswhat will I need to undercoat and overcoat these to make them able to withstand outside temperatures of hot and cold? I will be painting terracotta and plastic. I will be using these out in the sun.
It will be less about the undercoating and more about the finishing coat. If a piece is being left out of doors you need to consider how brutal the weather conditions will be and ... realistically ... how long you want/need/expect it to last outside. If you have harsh extremes in temperature with lots of rain and snow you likely would do best with a marine grade sealer for maximum wearability.
Cindy, I have two terracotta pots I would like to do. I don’t like the color of terracotta. I would like to do the concrete-look finish on these pots and use them with soil and a plant. Does this sound feasible? Should I use the clear wax sealer you used?
This technique works perfectly on terracotta. If you are using the pots inside then you can seal with the clear wax. If using outside though you would do better with a polyacrylic rated for outdoors.
@@QueenBeeCreations I will put a peace lily in one. Some of my indoor plants go outside under a large awning for the warm months. This will be one of them. I thought I would use leftover water based paint and a wax sealer on the outside. You’ve given me the courage to try it. Thanks Cindy!
Wax is a sealer, as is a polycrylic. Certainly if I'm finishing something for out of doors then I will use an outdoor poly but... inside... I will use wax whenever I can. I prefer the finished feel of it and the versatility - allowing me to add other coloured waxes and blending them to create more variation in a piece, aging it, etc. I typically use DIY waxes, and carry them in my shop, but there are other good waxes out there>
Coffee grounds work great for texturing instead of salt. sometimes salt reacts as a corrosive over time and will break down the polymers in the paint. Also need to prime the surface or the finish will flake and crack over time. Just a heads up.
Everyone is making gazing balls with cement coating. Your process seems easier. Do you think it would work on a rubber ball? With an outdoor sealer? And why do you not like acrylic paint for this process?
Christine... You could use acrylic paints if that's your preferred paint - I typically use what I have in the shop! As for the gazing balls - Because the balls themselves are flexible, I think you need to use the cement - it would be 'hardier'.
The paints I have in my shop are water based, not acrylic or oil…. Mostly for my furniture painting, but I use them in my projects too. What’s important is what you’re using them for and how you need to seal them
Not really, just blend in. Now.. I’ve never done a side to side comparison so it could be a little lighter, but it’s not like adding white paint… it doesn’t blend in that way…. Mostly just acts as a thickener.
I don't see why not! Some paints 'stick' better than others - the clay based paint I'm using is fine. If you're using something else you might want to try priming the plastic first or give it a coat of spray paint - that helps things stick to plastic and glass better.
I used DIY paint by Debi's Design Diary, which is what I carry in the shop - it is a clay based paint, similar to a chalk paint. However, this technique will work with pretty much any of the typical paints out there!
Typically, when painting anything, you need to consider your use. If you were putting this outside on a covered porch, or somewhere that it just got a little rain (option 1) then any outdoor polycrylic finish would be fine. If you are finishing something that is going to be staying outside in the full rain, sun and snow then you are best to either use many coats of an outdoor sealer or choose one that is specifically designed to hold up to those conditions (like perhaps a marine grade sealer). It is also dependent upon the desired longevity of the piece. Meaning... how long do you want it to last. A couple of years? then you can use a lower grade sealer. 5+? you'll need a better sealer and/or more coats.
@@QueenBeeCreations thank you! As I started painting I started thinking of a few of those. But those are good suggestions. It would be in a semi covered area. But there are some wet times. :)
Absolutely! the choice of the sealer would be dependent upon 'where' you want to use it - or simply based on what you have on hand! Instead of wax you can use a polyacrylic sealer of your choice - rated for indoors or outdoors depending upon use!
If you are using a painted piece outside you should always seal it with an Outdoor polyacrylic or even Marine Grade sealer - something that is better suited to withstand the elements.
It sounds like it is likely a combination of the surface of the item you're painting and the type of paint you are using. I use DIY clay based paint which adheres to just about any surface. If you are using perhaps a Walmart or Hardware store brand chalk paint then I would suggest two things to make this work. First... prep your surface - sand the piece and perhaps use a surface prep type product - certain brands carry them. Paint one or two coats of the paint with no baking soda or salt wash added - to build up layers and ensure that your paint is sticking. then Add the baking soda/paint mixture in light stippling applications - a couple of thin coats rather than one thick and heavy one - you should be good to go!
The wax is a sealer, designed to protect the painted surface, like a poly acrylic coat would. If you are using it indoors and it won’t be handled a lot you could get away without sealing. Just don’t get it wet!
Then you should be fine. Left unsealed any painted surface is more susceptible to scratches, water damage, etc. but if you are painting a piece that isn’t going to be touched much at all and you like the look of the paint when it’s unsealed then it should be fine
It is more a function of what you seal it with. I sealed it with wax I believe (its been a while!!) which would add a little bit of resist. If you wanted it a little more durable then use a polyacrylic (in the finish of your choice). I don't recommend it for outdoors but a covered porch would be okay with an outdoor sealer.
The rougher the texture the less likely it is for you to get a transfer to adhere smoothly. You create the amount of texture by the type of stroke you use... a stippling (or pouncing) motion giving you the most. You can also smooth out the texture with sanding so your call how much texture you leave. You could paint the piece in a flat regular paint, add your transfer in one spot and then add your textured paint 'around' where ever the transfer is perhaps?
@@QueenBeeCreations I’m so glad you responded so quickly- I’m just ready to head upstairs to add my transfers! I am now going to sand down the small areas where the transfer will go :) Thank you!!
For this you can use whatever paint you have on hand and prefer. I used (if I remember correctly) DIY clay based paint but you could use a chalk type paint, an all in one paint... open times on each will vary of course. The type of sealer you use will be important if you are planning for it to be used outside or inside. My pot was wood so I sealed it for indoor use.
Most artists and art supply firms recommend under coats depending on the objects surface consists of before applying paints. It depends on the material of the object being painted and the type of paint being applied. Incorrect prep and painting will result in problems. V I have been surprised over the years at my guessing versus the correct use of materials. Have you researched how to apply paint to glass so that it is durable? I have not, but experience tells me 'aint too durable'.
When painting on glass undercoats can certainly help with adhesion and durability. That said though, it is really dependent upon the type of paint you are using. DIY paint is clay-based and I have never had an issue with either adhesion or durability with it once properly cured.
@@birgip.m.1236 DIY is an actual brand of paint. You can find it for sale in your area via an engine search. The paint’s creator has a YT channel, Debi’s Design Diary, here on YT.
I sure wish that the companies that make expensive paints such as Annie Sloane and DIY Clay paints, etc. would offer their paints in small tins. I would love to try these paints but as a pensioner, I find them far too expensive to have to buy regular size tins. So I tend to buy paints that offer ‘sample’ sizes, that way I can try lots of colors! Especially as I craft more than using paint for furniture.
I think that Annie Sloan does have small tins (120ml??), DIY clay paint has 8oz as its smallest size. The Fusion Mineral paint I carry does have small testers in a 37ml size... and I sell a lot of those... so I think that most people would agree with you about 'tester' sizes!!
And now... the update. I have found it to be a great product for in the workshop, works great for this technique and... I just went and bought another big box to replace it! I didn't need a big box for the project but loved the technique and used it up!
Without going back and watching it myself I believe I was using DIY Clay based paint. That said though... you could use the same technique using just about any kind of paint. What becomes important is 'where' you intend to use it (indoors versus outdoors) and then how you intend to seal it. I was planning on this being for indoor use - primarily decorative - and it is finished in that way.
It really depends upon where you are at with your skill level. You sound skilled and familiar with various techniques and process so, yep, a slower video for you. For a beginner who is taking this on as a first project - they have lots of follow up questions for me even after the 21 minutes. there's a balance in there somewhere that I didn't hit for you but hit right on for another viewer and didn't give enough for some.
I find that the ratio does vary depending upon the type of paint I’m using and the amount/type of texture you want but 1:1 is likely a hood general rule.
It’s really dependent upon the texture you are after. 1:1 is very thick, 20-20% is much thinner. Whatever ratio you use is dependent upon the surface and the desired texture. If you are using and all in one paint… one with a built in sealer… any addition to it, whether other paints, fresco, baking soda etc degrades the possible seal. Therefore if you weren’t looking to seal it after application I wouldn’t exceed 10 to 15%
