My go-to finishing process for handles lately, particularly for plastic materials like G10 or resins, is to sand to 400 grit and then coat it with a paste finishing wax. I've found that this gives a nice semi-gloss luster after hand buffing the wax and leaving the sanding at 400 leaves just enough surface roughness for the wax to stick nicely. The wax leaves an ever-so-slightly tacky feeling to the handle so it doesn't slide around in the hand. Then if it ever starts looking dull or feeling slippery, you can just throw on a new coat of wax.
You should try "stippling". (Using a fine tipped soldering iron to create divots). People, I hear, do it to their pistol grips for superior grip retention. 😜
Yeah but IT Takes forever depending on the handle size....n Not Sure If IT works on G10 n such....works on thuse plastic crap some use...Like Becker...Kabar does ...but yeah feels n Looks nice....
Loved the "Grippy Finish" because a knife is often used with wet hands in the outdoors or even the kitchen. Thank You also for reminding the viewers about the seriousness of working around G10 dust. A lot of folks throw out the name G10 and forget that the 'G' stands for Glass and the dust from working it can be as dangerous for your lungs and eyes as working with any fiberglass. Stay Safe Everybody
Man where did you find that flexible 3M sand paper?? I got some on clearance at a bigbox store a few years ago and absolutely love it for handles, but now i cant find it.😢 Sunce i dont know what it really was its a bit tricky to find. Lol.. but what you used is the same stuff i love.
Is it possible to use the laser to give some subtle jimpingv(cross cross pattern) the first 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch just beyond the beautiful blue handle?
Not anything that you could feel. Any laser operation that would do that will heat up the steel to the point of significant compromise to the scale adhesion. It would likely require touch up afterwards if you did do it. These low power lasers are only a finishing process, not a manufacturing process 👍
@@Simplelittlelife Thanks for the answers, it is a beutiful knife, and I am happy that the really thin point survived. I wish I had the knowledge and esthetic that You have and the time and funds to start making my own knives, have to wait for retirement in a couple of years. Forging seems to be harder to get in to, so either commission blades later on or store-bought to start with and then move over to stock removal, seems to be a good middle ground for a hobbyist. Are not aiming for a commercial path just try out some designs. Then there is the sheet making.....
@@forgeworks3176 Thx....Just Aluminium Oxide? Right... Only Problem I have is crosscontamination... Thats why I stopped blasting....didnt wanna Switch Media .... Annoying to have tiny Rust dots on stainless Steel when the Media was used on high carb Steel before....
@@forgeworks3176 Well Just thought about a little more...the Problem occured when I blasted regular Steel before.... Hmmm....might explain the rusty dots....on stainless later on
