did this to my 01 ram and it works good but the dash gauge will max out now and then go back to normal....i have 14.5 volts and alternator is charging i just dont wanna start frying things....i have good grounds any suggestions??
I struggled with the same issue off and on until recently. I cleaned the grounds a few times which seemed to help temporarily. Most recently, I removed the bracket that supports the alternator and AC compressor and cleaned all the contact points, which are basically grounds themselves. Many were very corroded and cleaning them did help. After that I had to turn down the voltage regulator one more time and now the Jeep runs great. Just drove over 2,000 miles to Arkansas with a full load and pulling a trailer with no issues. For the record, there are two grounds on the front passenger side fender, one on the engine block behind the ignition coil, and one on the engine block under the AC compressor behind the support bracket. Then there is a braided ground between the firewall and rear of the engine that is easy to find. There are also grounds under each front seat that I cut through the carpet to check, but those ones were very clean. Hope this helps!
This is a really good walk through, with only one exception. Dielectric grease is actually an electrical insulator so you really do not want to put this directly on electrical mating surfaces. This is a very common misunderstanding among DIYers. Thanks for showing how to install this essential Jeep upgrade.
@@EndlessMoneyPits I would only recommend using it on connections similar to spark plugs where it helps to seal away the positive side from water intrusion which can cause the terminal to arch to your engine block. Dielectric grease is not needed in my opinion for automotive grounds. For positive connections I think heat shrink and/or electrical tape will usually be a better fit. This guy explains proper use well. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yuKAmaIkA-U.htmlsi=Gn2hv9S5R8zvKkP5
Thank you. This jeep still has an electrical issue and now you have me thinking it could be from too much dielectric grease. I'll be cleaning some connections on Monday...
Hi, nice video and build. Probably the most complete and thoughtful "tools and material needed" I've ever seen in any video. A couple things that hopefully you haven't had yet any problems with yet - those power resistors can get HOT, so keep that in mind when locating them and when using zip ties, for instance. The other potential (probable, eventually) issue is by using those splice tap connectors - while they are very convenient, they are not suitable for use in a vehicle, ESPECIALLY an off-road rig. Unless you enjoy chasing electrical gremlins routinely, I would strongly suggest you replace every one in your vehicle with a better connection. Soldering and adhesive heat-shrink tubing in probably best, but those new butt splices with the adhesive heat-shrink and solder ball that melts are really good AND convenient. Both are much better choices. Inside the vehicle is less critical, and I generally use regular crimp connections there, but never the splice taps. I've been a professional Electrician for over 3 decades and have also done car audio and electronics professionally. I have a '99 WJ that I built. Nice rig and thanks for the great info!
Thank you for the advice! I actually am having a strange electrical issue since installing this thing and think it's a bad ground or connection somewhere. I will replace those tap connectors and see if that resolves the issue. I hate when I make mistakes like this in my videos but I'm thankful that viewers like you seem to always help me learn without being mean about it. I'm always learning new things. Thanks again for the informative comment!
@@EndlessMoneyPits You are more than welcome! Curious - what weird problems are you having? I'm asking because I bought and just received this kit, but have yet to install it. I bought mine because after upgrading to a 180A alternator, I started getting a Check Engine Light; when I scanned the Jeep, it said the Passenger Control Module had logged 16+ volts and the PCM had logged too high a voltage coming g from MAP sensor. I keep clearing the codes and every 100 or so miles, it comes back on. My best guess is the voltage regulator is failing, hence this purchase. So let me know what you are experiencing, if you would. If I have any ideas on your issue, I'd be glad to share, as well. Thanks again!
Since installing this kit everything seems to function fine as far as adequate voltage to charge my batteries, but after a short drive I get the "Check Gauges" light on the dash and the voltage gauge goes 19+v. The warning goes away and comes back every 5-10 minutes while driving. I recently contacted the manufacturer of the regulator and they suggested I have a bad ground somewhere, which I think makes sense, but the grounds seem okay so I'm not sure where to start. I originally thought it might have something to do with the upgraded alternator and dual AGM battery setup but they didn't seem to think so. Any ideas? UPDATE: I fixed the "Check Gauges" issue yesterday by cleaning all the ground points and coating them with dielectric grease. Here's a short update video showing how I fixed it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l8ZjDEEcDdQ.html
My alternator is a aftermarket JS alternator with the same plug-in as the factory two green wires coming from the computer. So I think I should be good following your video and setting it up like you did. Thank you for the video I know it will help more than just me you're awesome keep up the great work man
I have an autotech engineering that has an internal voltage regulator but it is putting out almost 15v. It was 12.5_12.9 for the first two weeks buy now it is fluctuating from 15 to 12 and sometimes not charging battery. Links very similar to your js. My vehicle is a dodge caliber. If anyone has any idea why this would be happening let me know. I think the high voltage ruined my optima red top.
It takes a little patience. I think the ground wire is giving me problems off and on so I'll be replacing it today with something more substantial, but I think that's because I have the extra battery and high output alternator.
My 98 I bought came with the same voltage regulator, and a battery disconnect switch. Was trying to figure out what he was trying to fix or what was going on there, or where the wire gremlin could be. But also I've been having the engine pulse on me, was looking at the tb and sensor the other day and it looked fairly good still. But then you mentioned the tensioner pully. When I first got the 98 the pully on the power steering broke on me. Now that I'm thinking about it the tensioner could be the culprit, and caused the belt to slip off the power steering pully a bit and caused it to snap from pulling on it weird. And now it's causing the engine pulsing, head lights dimming, and rpms dropping in waves?
I'm having this exact problem with my car right now the ECU controls the charging voltage and won't allow me to charge past 13.8 volts and my lithium battery needs 14.4-14.6 is this a universal device I have been looking for something to do this for over a year now and have asked hundreds of people and barely get a response and if I do it's an answer to something I didn't ask so I learn something just not what I need to make my application work do you have a link or phone number for this device
Hi there and thank you for your video. I have a question I have the same problem but i got one of them but it wont work for me I was wandering if you can show me the connections There is only 2 ping from regulator the one with blue it split in to two one to the ig key can you send me the diagram you use please Thank you
Let me start by saying I am not very good at diagnosing electrical problems and I have never tested the amperage of my system, but here are my novice thoughts. If amperage from the alternator with the engine running is low then you may have an alternator issue. Increase idle speed to 1,500 RPM and see if it improves, which may be normal. Disconnect the battery and test it separately. If amperage at the battery is low you may need a new battery despite it showing good voltage. You can have it tested somewhere that sells batteries. I would also check for and clean/replace any corroded grounding points and damaged battery cables. I wish I could give a better answer but this is a topic I don't understand very well.
Can you do this on any PCM controlled car like Japanese cars? Im interested in doing this for mi car since I have a 320 amp alt but at 14.2 and I need more voltages for my car audio and batteries stability
On my Jeep Zj 4.0 my ground wire goes from the external voltage regulator to the body? I got it like that and dash shows 19+v should i move the ground wire to the alternator?
Hmm, I couldn't tell you why that would make a difference but 19+ does sound like a bad ground. Yeah, try setting it up like I did in the video with the ground going from the voltage regulator to the alternator and see if that helps. *UPDATE* I had this issue intermittently and it was a bad ground. Not the one for the regulator but one for the battery. This video explains how I fixed the problem: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l8ZjDEEcDdQ.html
Did you ever fix the problem of the 19 volts? And if so how? I have went over everything and tested several times with no luck. Even taken the alternator off multiple times to check output.
@@tabmorton2748 I checked mine with voltage meter a digital one and it's charging at 14,7 - 14.8 .. but dash still shows 19+ and i get Check Battery :/ So no havent fixed mine i still drive it but i'm gonna try cleaning my battery terminal cause i did clean all grounds if that does jot work i'll try adjustable voltage regulator 😃
UPDATE: After installation the Jeep had an intermittent "Check Gauges" warning which at which time the battery gauge would shoot up to 19+ volts. I fixed it by cleaning all the ground points and coating them with dielectric grease. Here's a short video showing how I did it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l8ZjDEEcDdQ.html Also, in the video I said my alternator puts out 300 amps but that was a mistake. It puts out 200 amps. 300 was the price of the rebuild.
That's great to hear! Very encouraging, I'm going to do the "Big 3" (Big 7 on a WJ, I guess) and am optimistic now that you've seemingly found your problem. Thanks so much for the follow-up! Best of luck with your rig, bro!
It may not work on something that new but I don't know for sure. Send an email to Quick Start directly and they should be able to help you figure that out.
I also have a 300 amp alternator and I'm going to purchase the exact adjustable voltage regulator you showing your video. The only difference is my 300 amp alternator takes two wire plug. Should it be the exact wiring that you do with your 2Wire module connector on your alternator?
It sounds like yours is the same as mine. The alternator should have two green wires, a large positive cable, and a large negative cable. If so, install the same way I did. If yours is different then could you please explain a little more? Also, I just checked their website and it looks like the adjustable voltage regulators only go up to 15.0v, but I'm not sure how accurate that is since mine was going much higher than that (I think they base this off a weaker alternator setup). Just wanted to give you a heads up incase you don't get the voltage you're looking for but with a 200 amp alternator I'd bet this will work for you.
Thank you for the video , May I ask the FRM (Gold Heat Sink) which looked like the Resister, Is that resister and How many Ohm? By the way NIce video presentation and step by Step. I have Jeep 1994, already subscribed
@@EndlessMoneyPits But your video enlighten me to design the External Voltage Regulator because I cannot order from Amazon or Ebay from Thailand, shipping cost and exchange rate kind of non sense right now. I already designed my own circuit and worked... Thank you for your video clip and other Jeep info .... :)
That voltage is extremely low. Your battery may need to be replaced but you can try charging it. Anything under 11.75v is considered dead from what I've read. A normal car battery should read 12.6v. The voltage may seem good right after you charge the battery, but the "surface charge" will wear off quickly.
Since the pcm in the computer regulates the voltage and if you decide to bypass it by adding an external adjustable regulater can this cause any issues with the computer since its not getting a reading anymore. Can it cause lights to come on ex: check engine light or cause the car to act weird
The resistor that comes with the kit is supposed to keep the errors away. However, my "check gauges" light comes on every 15 minutes or so for a few minutes at a time. I suspect I am getting the error because I upgraded my Jeep with two massive batteries and a 200 amp alternator, and the resistor in the kit may not be enough to compensate for that. I need to contact the company and see what they think is going on, but I don't think it is normal. You should not have any problems like this with a factory battery setup.
@@EndlessMoneyPits wow I see. I have a system and have the 90 amp alt. The issue im having is to get the full benefits of my amp I need to power them to about 14.5v but the factory alt only gets me up to about 13.8v standstill. when running everything if it does drop down to high 12v when I'm pushing but surprised most part im between 13.2-13.5v. I have a kenitik 1200 up front and a kenitik 600 in the rear to power 600 watt amp with a 600 watt sub. I also have a small power inverter in front with two outlets and 4 usb's, I also have a much larger believe 5k inverter I use rarely use now so trying to figure out how to maximize my power. Hope all makes sense
Not to mention I have not installed 2nd amp 4ch yet which will be powering front and rear speaker, thing is I have a set of component speakers I like to add to the front doors along with a second set of tweeters so possibly run all off second amp since the 4ch amp has enough power or add a 3rd amp. So yeah running alot of power. I did recently notice my headlight dim very minimal to where I notice but when I ask others they don't notice until I pint it out. Thats why I really want to add an external regulator but don't want the computer to act up.
That is quite they sound system you've built! I'm not sure the 90 amp alternator and stock battery are going to be enough to run that. I had my alternator rebuilt at a local shop to put out 200 amps, and I have two Odyssey AGM batteries. I also upgraded all the battery cables with larger gauges. For your setup I would look into the alternator rebuild and upgrading the battery. Replacing the cables will help move that energy where you need it and it was a pretty easy and relaxing upgrade. I'll be doing a video soon where I show all that stuff and explain what I did. You should also look into getting a capacitor for your subwoofer to help even out the power draw. If you do those things you may not need the voltage regulator but I'm not sure.
@@Juan_Morales69 Just wanted to let you know I resolved the "Check Gauges" issue yesterday by cleaning all the ground points and coating them with dielectric grease. Here's a short update video showing how I fixed it if you ever need it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l8ZjDEEcDdQ.html
No problem, I'm just sitting here working on the next videos. It took a couple more adjustments to get the alternator voltage output exactly where I wanted it, but now everything is working great. I should have done this mod when I did the dual battery mod because now I think both batteries are damaged from neglect as they won't hold a charge higher than 12.25v :/
The whole dual battery system took a lot of time to sort out and I'm actually modifying it more today with battery quick disconnects after getting the batteries replaced under warranty for the 2nd time! I haven't been driving the Jeep enough to keep the batteries charged.
I'm not entirely sure about that but I'm leaning toward no. This system bypasses the voltage regulator in the vehicle's computer. I'm not familiar with alternators that have a voltage regulator built in. You can contact the company that made this at alternatorparts.com for a better answer.
I have a jeep xj with a 2002 dodge durango 5.9 160 alternator oreilys website says it’s voltage’s regulator type is external will this kit work i need it charging around 14.5 and its only charging 13.7 currently
In that case, it sounds like this kit will work. That should be a very similar if not identical setup to my 1998 grand Cherokee. The Durango is based off the GC. Both offered the 5.9 V8.
Some of the confusion is that people incorrectly refer to this as "switching to an external regulator." The implication Is that the vehicle originally had an internal regulator. It did not. What it had was a *different* voltage regulator - in this case one located in the ecu. So what people are actually doing is switching their external voltage regulator. Before I installed anything, I would check some real basic stuff. Verify that the wiring between the alternator and the ecu are in good condition. That's pretty vague I know, but if you feel around and find a wire with a mushy jacket or visible corrosion, that could be the whole problem. If unsure, you can always temporarily replace that wire with something new and beefy, even if you have to trim an end and jam it into a socket and tape the shit out of it. This assumes, of course, that the output you are looking for is the stock output. If it isn't then you need the additional functionality of an adjustable vr. Those alternators will output much much higher voltage than what you're asking for - its the vr that keeps voltage down at high rpn by reducing the exciter field. So, yes - an adjustable regulator should do what you want. Whether or not the adjustment on this particular regulator will do the job is an open question. I've heard people bitch about the adjustability not working, but these were people installing a modification to a dysfunctional system and who knows their skill level. They could be as crappy a mechanic as I am.
