I use a 3-4 line skirt to ensure a good z-height and will adjust the bed on the fly. Generally, getting a good 1st layer result when I see a slight valley separating the lines. Too big a valley = lower the z axis / no valley = raise the z axis. To get an accurately levelled bed and proper z axis, try running a multi-lined skirt along the entire perimeter of your print bed and you'll plainly identify which corners need adjustment (and possibly find warped areas on the bed - mine has a slight upward bulge toward the center). Thanks for the good visual representation of this concept.
Your videos and cura profiles have been a lifesaver! Micro Center had the Ender 3 v2 for $99 and ive been getting great results with all your suggestions!
Wow! THANK YOU SOOOOOO MUCH! I purchased an .stl file to create a stencil of circles for cookie work. It printed a horrible mess. I gave up. I fine tuned nozzle, a bit closer to bed by increasing the set negative number, based on your video tutorial, AND IT IS PRINTING BEAUTIFULLY NOW! It's perfect! I can't believe it is working. Your explanation helps me understand a great deal more to fix this and future problems now that I know what to look for. Thanks again!!!
Bought this printer for my son’s Christmas present due to it being used by him due to the school he attends using it in the Library. He loved it and came to his parents. Using your videos to bring my “old man” knowledge up to speed of my son whom tech knowledge is above mine. Going to run it thru its paces BEFORE Santa does the drop. THANK YOU! and… may I suggest you add TikTok or whatever the kids use (as well) to bring you more subscribers to your channel… ❤
Thank you for your explanation. I've been having all kinds off issues with my v3 se set to Z -2.16 (especially with white pla, which I've heard can also be an issue). Have set it to -2.2 (based on your video) and WOW! SOOOOOO MUCH BETTER! I'm now running a circle calibration file and the results are looking Amazing!
mine was set perfectly, then all of a sudden, the prints were sticking a little too much and dragging into my build plate, and this was on the Ender 3 v3 SE, after I auto leveled, and when I used the auto configure before print option. I'm not sure if something messed with the settings, or if maybe the hot end might have not been straight or what. The print was stuck to the plate so well that the build plate broke a hole in the middle when I attempted to remove the 4th print from it :(
Your videos have been helping me with the headache of a new E3V3 SE. I got a bit of a lemon out of the factory with a poorly set gantry and goofy bed. Sadly had a 10 hour print fail in the middle of the night last night but after looking into it my z offset being too low for one side of my bed led to the nozzle knocking the print off the bed. Back to the z offset test prints 🤷♂️
When I got my ender-3 4 year’s ago was your channel that helps me with the build and tuning . Now I just got the new ender 3 v3 SE and your channel once again is helping me. thanks a lot !
Thanks for exceptionally clear descriptions. For viewers lacking experience with other 3D printers, a video simply describing which other videos are applicable to Edner-3 V3 Se (and which are not, and why) would be useful.
Thanks for this video, it has been helpful. I recently upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to use lcd touch screen and the marlin 4.2.7 board after it sitting in storage for 3 years. Was trying to figure out my Z offset and this helps since I also got an autoleveler attachment. now I just wish the software had more features and options.
After a number of good prints with my Ender 3 V3 SE I found that the first layer wasn't sticking to the plate. I relevelled a number of times tried different temperature settings etc but nothing seemed to work. So in the end I just reset the machine to factory settings, did the initial bed levelling and tried a test print and everything is back to normal again. Just a tip for any that ever have the same problem. I'm very new to this and only got my printer on January 1st so it's a bit of a learning curve. But thanks for your great videos. They help a lot.
After 7 years I had a massive blob on my Prusa MK2 and accidentally yanked abunch of wires out while removing it. 7 years it motored on. I decided daddy needed a new toy ... ( I'll fix this one too) Just pulled the trigger on a SE yesterday. Loving your videos!
haha i think "I" was one of the people having trouble that messaged you. You knew right away it was Z offset. This could not have come at a better time. Thank you for continuing to make simple easy to follow tutorials. Really appreciate it
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors it did! laying down some really great prints until now i have the opposite problem...nothing being extruded at all! hahaha I can't win. Do you have a video on cleaning the nozzle on an ender 3 v2 by any chance?
I wanted to study this topic, but for some reason I came across your video in English, the subtitles helped me understand the content without knowing English
Your videos are a godsend ! I just started last weekend and already after your tweaks and advice ive printed an entire guitar hero controller within 2 weeks kf beggining 3d printing !
Just commenting for the algorithm, lol appreciate ya taking the time to make videos. I'm only 7 months into 3d printing, currently have an Ender 3 v2 Neo, and your videos are probably the most helpful to me...
When I got a PEI plate that was slightly thinner than the factory plate I made a very thin square in the slicer and printed it, and adjusted Z offset on the fly. It was hard to determine the right level by eye though.
Yes, please keep these coming. First video where something was actually explained why it happens and how to fix it. Great video. I too have and ender 3 ve se and really like it but had to replace the slide plate because the one from the factory was bent. Got the new plate installed tonight and now trying to get leveled up. My request after a first level attempt, the graph show a bunch of different levels, all either green (good) blue (close), yellow (needs adjusting) and red (out of whack, lots of adjusting). But how do you change the graph so you r number are green. I know you can manually make the change and guess a number, but what is the right way.
The Z offset should be set so that when the printer 'thinks' it is 0.2 mm above the bed (or 0.4 or whatever), it really is. So you should actually measure it instead of trying to eyeball it while printing, otherwise you're allowing for other factors to come into play. For example, if you're using a filament configured so that its flow rate is too high and use it when adjusting the Z offset, you're likely to set it too high to compensate for the high flow. Then you use a different filament and the Z offset is off. So, clean the nozzle, put the printer at a Z of 0.2 and using a feeler adjust the Z offset until it is indeed 0.2 mm above the bed. Save the setting and don't touch it again. If the printer seems to be printing 'too close' or 'too far' from the bed, you'll know its not the offset but some other thing that makes it look like it is. My 2c.
thanks for this. it's nuts that anywhere else i was looking to figure this out was essentially like "Does increasing the z offset raise or lower the bed?" "Yes."
Like your videos! May I make a request. So I'm new 3D printing my first printer is the Ender 3 v3 SE. It was your videos that helped me set mine up. Thank you. Anyhow my request is could you make a video that is about acceleration and max speed settings that is in the between the your V2 settings you used and the v3's capabilities? The printer is fully capable of going much faster but since its so new there is literally nothing to help me in this quest.
i find im constantly adjusting my z offest, its never a set and forget between prints on my Kobra 2 Neo. Switching from textured pei to smooth peo im able to see my first layer better and make better adjustments to my z offest. thanks for the explanation.
Thank you! I almost have an high elf army printed on my ender 2 pro. But now the baeses come loose without a raft. Hopefully this helps. thanks again and looking forward to the a1 review
Just by the opening image (nozzle/Bed): That helped to visualize more than any other video I watched. I just purchased a V3 KE and it's supposed to be auto everything which was one of the reasons I go it. Not so much! I've successfully printed the tugboat and 7-8 other prints (mine and others) however the consistency of the first layer sticking is about 50/50 AND I can't even complete the Creality calibration tests without them ending up in a big blob dragged across the bed. Unfortunately no settings I input improve the outcome and I still can successfully print the first layer of a calibration test. After all my tweaking I think i have a bad printer.
I was just thinking I had a problem with my z-offeset. I thought my first layer was correct, but my parts come out about 1 layer short when doing a block. I think the nozzle is dragging the top IDK. anyway thanks for the content!
Thanks for the information. My printer doesn't have the a "Z" offset on the LCD screen, so what I do is put the offset in the "Start G-Code" in the slicer (look for a G30 Z0.xx ).
Thank you. Very informative for a new user. Granted, I understand how negative numbers work. I do have a somewhat related question, on my SE, everything was fine at first but I started having some adhesion problems. I re leveled the bed and my Z offset went from -1.76 to -1.91. This resolved my issue, but my question is what would have caused it to change? Was this an issue with the printer moving on the table slightly causing it to need to be adjusted or should I be worried about a lose part?
I have the same printer. When I auto level, the z offset is too far from the bed and nothing sticks to the bed. Do you think there is something wrong with the sensor that sets the z offset?
The picture is super, but by my calculations -3 is a lower number than -2, -1, 0 etc. The picture clears it up, but if this was audio-only, that part of the explanation would be super confusing.
Great vid thank you. I have recently bought an ender V3 se with auto bed levelling. But it's not doing a great job, particularly in certain areas on the board
Thanks for the video, but I have an issue ever since I changed the nozzle. What's worse? Sometimes the z offset is good, other time it peels off the print as it goes. What can I do about it?
