Next... Well that's a wast of time, Lots of talking, But no actual information on how to adjust Z offset, Even though he's got a few different printers 🤦♂️
@@3DMusketeersI reckon he expects the same everyone new expects. I'm new, have watched at least 10 videos on this, and still haven't seen a simple explanation on how to use z offset. Questions that could help understand better here. Say I did leveling with paper, so nozzle is 0.1mm from bed: What happens if I now set z offset to -2? How far would the nozzle be from the bed? If z offset was set at -2 before doing the bed leveling and isn't changed again, the moment I launch a print, at what distance would the nozzle start from the bed?
@@AP-yd1wz If you set the bed level with the paper and such, you would not want to set your Z offset to anything other than 0. If it is a negative number you will be too close to the bed, and -2 would mean that you would be very much digging into your bed. When you level the bed, before you do anything, return the z offset to 0 and then home and go from there :) Hope this helps!
@@3DMusketeers it does. But guess what, in one of many videos of this kind that I watched, part of the process before even doing the leveling with paper was to set the z-offset to -2.45. Later on I realised it must make no sense at all to do it. But it took time, exactly because most leveling videos are just useless.
I constantly have peaks towards the edge walls, the center looks pretty good but filament piles up as the printhead goes to change direction on the infill
That often indicated a warped build plate :/ This would also assume it is an issue for perimeters as well, if not, its likely a pressure advance issue.
@@3DMusketeers I didn't mean the edges of the bed, regardless of placement in the bed this happens near every inner wall perimeter within the infill, so I'm guessing it's probably pressure advance, but I've calibrated it through orca slicers PA calibration already, I'll try different settings and see if that helps
just one comment id like to add for anyone reading: soup cans are (obviously) not precision parts and will have a fair amount of tolerance between cans. a pair of machined steel 1-2-3 blocks is like $18 on amazon and are accurate to .0003 of an inch between pairs. this is what i use to level my gantry and it works flawlessly/i dont have to worry about the temptation of wanting to eat a tool i use often like i would with soup.
I have the anycubic kobra and with having the PEI sheet I use alcohol however I also wash it with dish soap and tap water and that does the best job. 👌. That is a great solution when alcohol does not work.
So i have a Sovol Sv03, been printing on it for a while and switch from normal PLA to different transparent filament. the temp i printed with for that filament was alot hotter then my normal filament. after i was done using that i went back to my normal PLA and i havnt been able to print since, i level my bed and set my z off set and as soon as it start is immediately doesnt stick and fails right away. Normally i can figure this stuff out but this time for some reason i cant, iv re level and set z off set over and over and it still fails. is there anything else i could look at?
I'll have to create a z-level file. That looks way better than the crappy stock one. It's way too small. By the time I can see the square, it's done printing. Having it cover the majority of the length of the bed looks useful. I know some people print one that does the ENTIRE bed, but I think that's too extreme and it will take too long to see the results.
this video did absolutely nothing but was straight yapping. read his comments where he replied and said it depends on the printer??? so don’t post a video at all dude. everyone knows to clean your plate, and make sure it’s “not too high” or “not too low”
Well if everyone knew that we wouldn't see so many failures due to bad first layers.. and screw me for explaining things.. who knew a video needed talking to explain things.
@@3DMusketeers I watched other videos than yours and it had actual settings we could tweak with or look at and change other than it’s too high or too low buddy
There aren't settings my dude. It's all knobs or moving points. If they are telling you to change it in the slicer that's dangerous. But hey, what do I know. Best of luck to you.
Heya im having issues, first it seemed i was to close, i have flashforge adventure 3 light, i adjusted the Y axis and can move a peice of paper underneath with just a bit of touch, my rafts are now really odd, it does the outline thick, and the internal lines very very thin and not touching, almost like looking at a harp, any ideas how to fix this? im fairly new to printing still
The build plate could be warped some, this is common on printers actually. It is why we love auto leveling as it corrects for that stuff. I would do a bed level on the 4 points like you are doing then move the nozzle to the middle and see what it is like there. Maybe try and average it all out, you know? Also, why a raft? It is generally an antiquated process these days.
@@3DMusketeers honestly, I only use a raft as that felt normal? Do you think it would skip this entirely without the raft? I considered taking it away but thought if it can't lay a raft, my prints without a raft would suffer the same issue. I've just been releveling, I'm not 100% confident I'm doing it well enough. I shall press on and keep trying with the levels for now. Thank you
they may have the issues. Rafts were what we used to combat warping of ABS back in the day. Removing the raft will help you better visualize the issue though
I have a Kobra Max or 2. All at once the auto leveling sensor (which seemingly can't be purchased) state that they are "abnormal". So, I unplugged and plugged in the wires, and used a cable tie to stabilize the print head wiring. Now... it says "calibration success" when I am not even touching a tool to the nozzle. Then it goes through the same prompt (leveling sensors are screwy) without even finishing the first probe. Anycubic is awesome until it isn't. Then you are screwed.
@@3DMusketeers oh no biggie. I am working on them now as we speak. I love my Kobra Max's but... it MAY be time to upgrade to something bigger and better.
@@3DMusketeers I have to be honest... sometimes manual leveling is just better. Less to replace. Less wait from China. Who wants to wait a month or more for parts?
I stopped having tramming issues when I locked the adjutment wheels with nuts and washers and locktight which gave me a bed that was trammed correctly and no longer has the ability to move and so there is only the Z Offset to adjust after the ABL is done, the machine then just prints, and prints well and they can go for 3 months or more without having to be adjusted, my Pro 3D V-King 400 which also has a locked bed and tri independent belted Z axis just does Z Tilt and then ABL and never needs any intervention, my 2X Ender 5 Plus machines have dual independent Z and locked beds and run G34 before each print and then ABL also hardly ever need need intervention.
