You may want to reduce the maximum charge voltage of the batteries to prolong their lifespan, since batteries stored at 100% SoC lose around 20% capacity per year per battery university BU-808. If the reduction in total capacity causes issues with road trips, you could add a DIP switch to enable full charge for planned outings. Fun little project!
A recessed push toggle on the front panel would be perfect. Have it normally recessed in the front panel, and limiting the charge voltage. Then if you press it, it pops out, raising the change votlage.
I'd never heard of them, either. I did a little research, and aluminum nitride seems like a perfect thermal material: it's got almost the same thermal conductivity as copper, but its conductivity is somewhere between that of deionized water and glass.
Look in to emergency light module AGM batteries; they're available in 6 and 12 volt, run between 2.5-5 amp hour and would fit perfectly in the space you're working with.
That's what I was thinking, too. I also remember Big Clive doing a teardown of a headlamp with an AGM battery that couldn't have been bigger than 10 cm x 10 cm x 10 cm.
Frickin' awesome. I love when pesky personal preferences get in the way of good part selection and you really have to go down the rabbit hole for that just-right part.
i really appreciate the thought given to sustainability! I have held off on a lot of new hobbies because of the confluence of "i already am pretty good at woodworking and would like to do more" and "the world doesn't need more plastic and e-waste". if i really need something 3d printed other than upgrades to my theoretical 3d printer that i could get, i'll just get one of my friends or a library to do it!
i don´t get why this guy does not have more subs. I am binging all his Videos the last couple of days. I don´t really understand what he is even doing but it is really entertaining
For a moment there I thought I was witnessing some KiCad wizardry right in front of my very eyes. Regardless, using the regulator in parallel with the charge controller is some wizardry of it's own. I might want to put that one up my sleeve. I'm actually in the process of designing the charger circuitry for my hopefully commercial project. I said to myself "It'll charge using power from USB. How hard could it be?"... Several weeks later, 4 largely different circuit variations, and the constant uncovering of new "gotchas" that the USB IF sprinkled in the spec like rotten easter eggs. And of course I'm doing all this while trying to work around the limitations of non-ideal parts since the ones I actually want have a 1000 year lead time.
First, build a time machine out of NOS parts. Then, go a thousand years into the future to grab the long lead time parts when they're ready. Or you can go back in time a couple years to pick up parts that use to be in stock. Then, return to the present and build your project.
The throttle temperature is around 90-100°C so a bit too warm for normal 18650s ... there are however special cells with a high temperature electrolyte where this might work
Omg metal can transistors! They do exist! Where can we get them, especially those of us learning EE on the internet and Udemy on disability afgrr a massive stroke? Beautiful components, dreaming here
Dang, I've been thinking of doing something like this for my Resin 3D printer. Relatively low power but definitely a problem with power interrupts. What if it had an adjustable output voltage and 'read' the DC voltage during normal operation, and used that as the setpoint? Seems relatively easy and also useful!
Yes, it's a bit strange: My DC-DC converter on the reference module uses this eXtRemE iSOlAtIon idea to attenuate all incoming common mode noise. I made a video about it. So whatever I do on the battery module should mostly disappear. But systematically it just didn't feel right to have a potential noise source there
I was looking into that MPP Solar off grid system you have but I have a question. Can it be set to NOT charge the batteries from the grid once they are empty but ONLY charge the batteries when there is enough solar power? Thanks for your time.
I am a physicsbro by education, and far down the stack of people who know anything about electronics. I came from the electronics wisdom, and stayed for the voice. Jesus christ you should have a second career in voice over, I could listen to you for hours.
Isn't it a better idea to have the two linear regulators as far away from each other as possible, so they dont heat each other up? That way each can have more surface area for cooling.
Is pdf shown at 0:39 correct?? "Taintanium-Nitrate" note the "a" as second letter, and they refer to it as "TaN". It is not written as Titanium Nitrate or TiN. Google returns nothing for "TAitanium Nitrate", just treats it as a typo of titanium nitrate.
Hey, what program do you use for schematic design, and do you know of a half decent free program that can be used to create gerber files? Great video as always, props from a Canadian electrical student :D
I see another invertor charging a battery, why do DC2DC charging circuits get so rare. I see them only for car batteries. I spent time searching for something to charge my bike batteries without the need to carry a full charger and using inverters on the Stationary power stations.
I kinda hate his schematic timelapse. he just records himself deleting the schematic then reverses the video. but it does look good and takes way less time
I would say it takes more time to first design it and then record deleting everything. What he is doing is instead saving time of his viewers (while making it look pleasingly effortless).
@@ristomatti What i hate is making it look effortless part. Doing that takes a lots of time an a tremendous amount of research. I just feel like it does not show how difficult that process is. Does look good to the audience tho.
@@Ender_Wiggin I'm with you on that. I'm still stuck in the occasional THT protoboard phase with my hobby. The topics covered seem to be on a completely different level, so it feels natural for me to skip the gory details of the actual work. It will likely also attract a much wider audience keeping the videos short. :)
4000 hours? Didn't you forget some parenthesis there? 28Wh / (0.084A x 12V) should be less than 28 hours, very long, but not unreasonable, if you don't need to transport it very frequently.
@@reps Yes, as you wrote two lines above, 184mA total, subtract 100mA for the module, and you have the remaining 84mA that you used to calculate, so there is no need to worry about the 1W for the module since it's already taken care of, at least according to your calculations 😉
2:47 You're either so good that you know exactly how wide each component is or you recorded yourself deleting every part and played it backwards for the presentation. I'm on to you with your movie magic wizardry.
I highly doubt even the best of the best designers make no mistakes that require deletion or reposition. This seems like an automated replay/redraw of an already designed shematic.
Awesome! It seems that reliable power is becoming more and more a must, not just for PPM's but for convenience and safety, now that everyone is so dependant on electronic devices whole home backup power is becoming more and more desired. Thanks for the cool circuit, too bad the ubiquitous TP4056 couldnt be used. I think you should add in better power flow for the device. That way the 250mA current limit can be bypassed. It looks like you have 24v going to the linear charger then buffered directly by the battery then to a 7812 to the stable 12v output. What I suggest you do is add 2 diodes to the input of the 7812, the first coming from the battery to the 7812, the second coming from the main input (24v) to the 7812, that way as long as the input supply is higher than the battery voltage (meaning the batteries could be charging) then the power goes directly to the 7812 meaning you could get a max of 1A of pass through power (provided enough cooling was given to the 7812). Then when the supply voltage drops below the battery voltage then it will start to draw the batteries down while still being able to source a maximum of 1A. I do this alot with my DC UPS circuits and I use ideal diode boards which keep the efficiency and current handling high when feeding buck/boost converters, in your application the PPM's are more important than efficiency so diodes would actually help by reducing the voltage by ~0.5v sharing the heat of the 7812. Not only does this increase the current handling capability but it also significantly reduces the "micro cycles" the batteries see, because of voltage drop under varying loads the charge voltage of the cells will be constantly changing with each increase and decrease of throughput current. This should allow the cells to also have a significantly increased lifespan while also increasing the total passthrough current capability. I always get annoyed when manufacturers dont implement this feature, the cost is very low and will make it last a much longer amount of time! I hope this helps and good luck on the next project/revision!
Great little project. Currently building a solar system using a Tesla S battery pack. Definitely adding redundant protection to keep it form going into goblin mode. (will remember that term) Have to keep the all 432 18650 cells happy.
Another good video from Marco Reps ! And showing to a DIY audience all those scarse and hard to find components is akin to showing fields of coca plants to people with chemical dependency/adiction problems .... it does not help on this times of chip scarcity ... 😀
