Another great informative video, I started climbing and cutting trees over 3 years ago and learned everything from RU-vid, I started in the canopy and worked my way down, It’s become more of a passion than profit but I do make good money doing it. I can always learn new stuff, and always try and that’s why I know more than others cause many don’t. Thank you Joe, God bless mate.
Joe Bisping I mentioned before about having a back up while using a friction saver, I thought about this after hearing a climber who’s tie in point broke and he was seriously Injured, I would like to hear your thoughts about it if interested, I don’t care for any likes or comments etc, I just care to keep passing on knowledge in this trade to help others. Here’s the link to my video on it, and by all means please if you want, you can redo my video and share it , you can reach more than I can, take care buddy. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-thfGBV0uX74.html
It took my half way into the video to understand that you set the anchor from the ground. By base anchoring the block after setting it over a limb you make it retrievable, this is mind blowing, I never considered this, I always climb to the anchor point....
Nice work Joe. Great info. Thanks for being kind to the tree. Years ago a guy gave me a great price on removing some dead limbs from my oak tree. I didn't know at the time the spurs damage trees.
Good stuff man. Im going to start posting more of my videos . One thing I gotta add though is when you're chunking down a spar like that ESPECIALLY on a silver maple you should hit that other side with your saw so you don't get a peel that drags you down. Meaning the peeling cambium will pull down very quickly on your lanyard. & if you're not spiked in REALLY effin good youre going with it. Trial & error buddy. All & all im giving you an A- the minus is only for the peels. Stay safe- stay alive Tree Bro!
really enjoying your videos , often times when Im working, I don't use the correct words ( volcabulary ) n your explaining is excellent thanks for great videos for reminders and great technique .. Joe
Great vid nice presentation..only concern here is removing whole stems from multiple stemed trees with large diameter often results in severe decay resulting in eventual tree failure..may take many years..10 -20 or more..As a general rule i try and convince my customers to have us reduce weight and lift lower limbs for clearance more light etc on unwanted leaders, sometimes cabling is recommended or even entire tree removal..and start over with a tree better suited for the site..just my 2 cents..love your stuff!
Good job joe, I think it was faster the way you did it, It always pays to have a plan and think ahead, It took me years to learn, and i am always still learning and improving. Stay safe man 👊
Even if it wasn't faster it's probably safer and less strain on the body which is huge in a game where most climber only last 7 years. Oak man all day not a Euc man.
awesome video...I use this technique often....I also use it for setting climbing lines the same way...my son and alot of old timers don't really like to use SRT so this enables them to tie high with having to isolate a crotch for DRT.....I actually did a video on this but I suck on camera so I never posted it 🤦♂️ stay safe
Very cool explanation of the process. I´m a big fan of floating rigging set-ups. As a former groundsman and now climber it just presents much better dynamic involved teamwork with your work mates. Also excellent info on the loading quantities. Not many really think about this but it is so important to operate safely with potentially heavy equipment overhead. Great stuff.
Hi Joe, I like your videos and I they are very helpful. I am a tower climber/rope access tech that recently started with a tree service after being in the mountains doing rockfall (one rope system) and slope stabilization. Being I was already a certified (sprat and Irata) R.A.T. I had already familiarized myself with SRT and DRT and used and played with them. My employer is a self taught tree climber who startred his business a few years ago and isnt familiar with my certs and seems apprehensive to let me climb for a few months. I have provided references, my certs and even photo and video documentation of my work. Part of the job offer was to have my own climbing gear, I have full body RAT harnesses petzle avao bod croll fast. He seems to think it wont work in the tree however I have done rope access on towers, skyscrapers, trees, and cliffs and dont see any reason why I cant use it, I already have significant money in my climbing gear and dont really see myself buying thousands more in a tree specific kit anytime soon (obviously I will in the future as Im a climbing nerd and love gear). What are your thoughts on using a RAT harness in the tree? Am i missing something?
LOL! "That's why you wear a helmet!" TRUTH! How many times have we been tying the climbing line onto the throw line (or whatever) and suddenly there's a knock on the lid!
Hey Human! Hope all is well. Well we just removed two leads and the rest of the tree stayed. I guess maybe technically thats called a lead removal and not a prune??? Either way, my point was, i'm not going to spike the part of the tree that is going to stay so I treat it like a prune.
Great video but i have a question. Would tip tying, or at least mid tying those tops and long branches have helped it not get caught up in those other trees and make the rigging so much easier and faster?
What do you do if they ask you to reduce the crown (not top at 2/3s height) of a silver maple equal size and shape with no access for a bucket? If it’s unsafe to climb any higher perhaps so those branches in this video would fit and not hang up.
So this is to avoid using a natural rigging point? Are you worried about damaging the tree or the rope, cause a natural rigging point is so much faster. But maybe i’m ignorant?
Jeff Beeckman are you asking about tying off the rigging line? If so it’s nice to use the Prusik cord so you can’t tighten up the line easily to the desired tension.
Sling and ‘biner is quicker than tying a running bowline each time I think, are you meaning a bowline with a biner clipped back? That seems the fastest
Wait so it started with “advanced” rigging techniques and ended up explaining why you used a climbing line and how you’re able to lean back in your harness when you use one? Kind of like starting a business, then realizing you have no idea how to price your work. That’s OK! There’s RU-vid!