Great video covering the boat's history, the repairs, improvements, and design considerations. Nice work with all the fab and rigging. The color combination is killer, sporty, and classy at the same time. I appreciate you taking the time to narrate the process of taking the boat from a "beater" to a fully functional craft that suits your needs. Much respect for your tenacious collecting of the old outboards, someday you'll have to do a walkaround tour of your collection for us, the loyal viewers. Keep up the great work, the interesting videos, and your passion for saving the vintage history machines that we all love to see and hear run on your pond or the lake outings. Work safe, enjoy your week. See ya on the next adventure! Doug@ the "ranch"
Thank you very much for the compliments. I have always liked the combination of red accent against aluminum. This thing was definitely a beater when I bought it. Had I known how bad it was I'd have never brought it home. It turned out great and I'm happy to have put in the work now. I have a few leaks again that I need to try to seal up before winter storage again, but it isn't bad. I have every intention of continuing doing what I'm doing and saving these classics. I'll eventually have to get into some of my earlier antique motors again too. I have a coulle of bigger motors to work on over the winter and a whole slew of smaller ones. We'll see what I can get done. I have boat repairs to make also and some trailers to work on. Thanks for watching!
Beautiful classic. Growing up as a teenager my stepfather had the same boat. His had the wings on the back. Somehow I ended up with the steering wheel and cables for it. I still have them in my shed. Watching this video brought back a lot of memories. Thanks for sharing
Loving the setup, and the paint job. I like the quick swap idea. Mine is similar, except for the electric start I just added to the speeditwin, I can swap with either my Johnson or fastwin 18s, and even the 6hp fastwin fits the steering cables. I wish my throttle controls were in as good a shape as yours. She’s a beaut!
Thank you! My Alumacraft FD is set up with electric start and choke as well as a lanyard kill switch and the same style control box. It has the factory accessory center steering deck. If I want to use an electric start motor on this boat I use my start box I made with the solenoid in it. I can clamp on battery operated navigation lights if needed. The only extra wiring in this one is for the remote kill switch. That is zip tied to the shift cable. The key with this one is simplicity for the flip over and haul in the trailer feature. Having wiring and a big battery along is not an option. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I really enjoy this boat after doing the work to it. It was such a mess when I got it that I had buyers remorse for a while. Now it is definitely a favorite and a joy to run. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! It still kind of amazes me how well this setup works and does what it was planned and designed to do. I really enjoy running this setup a lot. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. This setup made a great little boat out of one I didn't like to run very much. The best part is I didn't lose any of my portability with the addition of the remotes. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing looks like a decent set up. One thing you could do, is the pulley that handles the 90ﾟ turn you could put that where the spring is mounted, and then mount the Spring on the transom.
Thank you. Yes, I could do as you described and move the anchored cable ends to the transom a.d move the 90° pulleys to the eyes where the anchored ends are now. That would work just fine as well. I'm not sure why someone would set the pulleys up where they are now. I'm pretty sure I will fix that this winter. Thanks for watching!
Yup, this little boat handles horsepower pretty nicely driving from the center bench. These were sold only as a tiller controlled boat and rated at 20hp. At the time this boat was built the 20hp was the same block as this 25 in a J/E motor. I have run three different large displacement 25s on this boat and other than some porpoising at top end, it handles thise fine also. Hopefully with a little less weight my CG will be far enough forward to avoid most of that and better my top speed. Thanks for watching!
Great setup! I have been considering steering on my 14 ft. Crestliner, will follow your example when I do. We have a 73 Johnson 25 and 72 Johnson 20. To get that extra horsepower, push the RPMs up to at least 6500 on the 25. Does that 25 like fuel, you bet, especially at WOT, the sound is great, gives the impression of a much faster ride. Our boats operate a at 5000 ft. altitude, prefer the 20 for day in and day out use, only a few miles per hour slower that the 25. You may have a difference experience at near sea level.
Thank you! I'm very pleased with how it came out. It works great and does what I want it to do. I'm learning more about what makes these little boats go all the time too. The OMC 18s are my favorite motors. I like them a lot for their power, versatility, and dependability. These small displacement 25s are, in comparison, definitely bred for speed. Im looking forward to getting this rig on open water to see if it will still sing with a 11P prop. The 10P definitely has it for the holeshot and gives the feel of low end acceleration over the 11P, but the steeper prop feels like it wants to just keep unwinding and may have it for top end. A 12P 2-blade may really fly, or it may not. It will be fun to find out. Good luck with your Cresty! Have fun, be safe, and thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I use a 9 X 9 three blade OMC prop to achieve 6300 rpm on the Johnson 25. The best speed has been 23, maybe 24 mph, over a light chop in colder weather, that's with one person and 3 gallons of gas in the boat. The motor is rated for 6500 rpm, how far can you push them?
beautiful rig, I'm sure it is a joy to drive, no tiller handle fatigue and better performance with the driver in the middle seat. I'm sure the braces, along with your console have done alot to stiffen up the gunwhales...
Thank you, Don! The overall performance increase was dramatic in this case. It was a terrible boat for ride and handling from the rear at the tiller. It's lots of fun from the center bench. Ride, handling, and achievable flat running speed are all better now. Yes, the braces and the steering deck added a lot of stiffness to the gunwhales. Thanks for watching!
It made for a great little boat. Lots of fun and it is still completely usable for fishing if you would want to. I like this arrangement for simplicity and maintaining much of the utility of the boat. Thanks for watching!
👍 I’ve always liked your work and this is no exception ! Next your probably making some sort of wheels to slid it into your trailer ! LOL . Did you use self etching primer on the hull or doesn’t it need it for the paint to stay put ? I know Ron painted the boat he got from me and I don’t remember if he used it , I should ask , I only talk to him every day ! Lol. But you reminded me about it on this video ! Lol. SKOL BUD !
Thanks Dave! I have already started thinking through a few designs for wheels to roll this boat into my trailer. LOL. I used Total Boat 2-part epoxy aluminum boat primer on this hull over the Gluvit and under the Mystic Tractor and Implement paint top coat with hardener. I believe Ron did use self-etching primer on the Cresty.
Great build but I have a few questions, is the throttle only compatible with evinrude motors, or all motors, and where did you find the pulley part on the steering wheel?
Thank you. The throttle cables that are installed on this control box currently are for OMC outboards and stern drives. The pulley (drum) on the bottom end of the steering shaft came from a commercially made boat steering wheel assembly. I prefer the Spirol type drum, but I was able to make some small guid pulleys that I placed under the steering deck to guide the cables well enough to prevent them from stacking when I turn. Thanks for watching!
Glad to hear you gat your transom done in your FD. That one is a bit if work. It took me a while to do my FD transom too. It was well worth it though. It's a great little boat now. I'm sure you are going to love yours. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. It is coated 3/16" steel cable from Tie-Down Engineering. I cut it to length from a bulk roll. I believe it can be ordered from Amazon or any number of other online sources. Thanks for watching!
Glad to hear you enjoyed the explanation. Which cable guides? The little wire loops that I riveted to the sides of the hull? I believe I bought those on Amazon. Thanks for watching!
I moved the pulleys. The spring placement wouldn't help. The geometry was way off. Moving the pulleys aft completely fixed the issue. Thanks for watching!👍
In my opinion, that is the only safe way to do it. Otherwise the only throttle control is on the tiller or the face of the motor somewhere depending on which motor it is. Unless ot is a rear cockpit, you can't even reach that and even if you can, you can't get to it in a way that allows you to be in control of the boat. Thanks for watching!
The CMC tilt trim unit would add a whole lot of weight to the back as well as a lot of complication to the intentionally simple setup. It also wouldn't fit inside my 12 foot trailer anymore. I don't think I'll be adding that feature to this boat. 😉 Thanks for watching!
@@igotatan1 I have tried hydrofoils on different motors on a different boat and I never liked them. If trim is adjusted correctly, all the hydrofoil did for me was slow me down. Thanks for watching!
Adding the spacer brought the thrust vector from the propeller closer to the bottom of the hull. That reduced the tendency for porpoising some as well as slightly reduced the drag from the lower unit in the water. Can't raise these motors much due to the placement of the bypass plate for the water pickup, but this didn't adversely affect the water flow and it did give me a little more speed and less porpoising. Thanks for watching!
It made a whole new boat out of this one. I didn't like running this boat from a tiller at all. I don't mind running tillers at all on my other boats, but this one was not well suited to it. Putting the remotes in made this boat a lot of fun amd one that I regularly run. Thanks for watching!
The spring is a tiller rope spring. The pulley should be closer to the anchor point than it is in this video. I ended up moving my pulleys. They are now about 1.5" -2" away from the anchor point on both sides now. The geometry was way off on this boat before. I just used existing holes, but ended up drilling new ones and filling these with blank rivets. Thanks for watching!
Which part of it? The steering wheels were produced with a dash mount, shaft, bearing, wheel, and drum. They were very common in recreational boats in the 1950s thru the 1970s and even into the 80s. The Teleflex push-pull cable setup with a rack and pinion at the helm had mostly replaced cable pulled steering today, but parts are still out there. I made most of this one myself.
No sterio w/sirius satellite? Kinda slackin off aren't you!!!! Lol very nice i need you for a neighbor i have outboards and 2 boats that i can't get to
I do have a nice JBL MP3 speaker I can take along and stream SIRIUS from my phone. No real need to build it into the boat.😉 I hear that neighbor thing every now and again. LOL. Thanks for watching!
@@donaldswider3858 I never really thought about doing a video on boat restoration. This boat got quite a bit more work just to make it float than most of mine have needed. I have an Alumacraft Flying C that needs quite a bit of work too. That would be a lot different video and I would have to learn a lot more about editing to make that happen. I ordered my Gluvit online, I bought my riveter on eBay, I use Gord's metal polish after an acid wash to remove the tree sap and oxidation. I also use 3M 5200 sealant on the rivets when I replace them. I used Total Boat 2-part epoxy aluminum boat primer under Mystic tractor and implement paint with hardener as a top coat.
How do you keep the steering cables from tangling when turning i try to keep tension when installing then when i turn after a few times it seems to tangle up
If you are using a simple divided steering drum without a spiral groove, cable stacking is pretty common. It may take some adjusting of pulley positions to reduce the stacking as much as possible. I added a couple of small cable guide pulleys to the underside of my steering deck to adjust the cable angle to the steering drum. After adding those guides, it doesn't stack at all and the steering is steady and smooth from stop to stop. A spiral grooved steering drum is a better solution IMO, but I did not have one when I built the steering in this boat. The factory steering deck in my Alumacraft FD with factory placed pulleys will stack too. I use a single spring on my tiller cable and it is tensioned to about 1/4-1/3 of the spring travel when the motor is in normal drive position. That seems to work great. Thanks for watching!
@@colton6035 They're called tiller rope springs. Do an internet search, amd you can find lots of vendors that sell all sorts of tiller rope steering parts. Springs, clamps, cables, loop eyes, cable guides, etc.
I bought the bare boat for $150 cash amd when I got it home it leaked so bad I wasn't sure if I could save it. I would have probably been money ahead had I waited and found a nicer one for more money, but it opened the door for this project. The boat turned out great after all the work I put into it. I'm glad I have it now. It's a great little boat in its current setup. Thanks for watching!
