@@brandonsnyder7922 thank you Brandon, I really appreciate the words of encouragement and yes, I will continue to provide the best content I can. Let’s get better together 👍🏻😊💪🏻 ❤️🎱
Thank you Matthew. Also, If you’ll read through the comments, you will see that I address confusion on another player’s comments. My answers to them will also help you understand the situation more in depth. Thanks again 👍🏻😊
We learn center ball rolling contact 1st and engrain that contact point(only good for rolling ball) in our mind yet it is not a pure ghost ball position because of the cut induced throw. At 30 degrees it takes a lot of outside just to negate the CIT but that will be the true ghost ball position. 1. calculate cut angle, 2. adjust contact point for speed, 3. add some spin to get position, 4. change aim point, 5. re-adjust speed accordingly too maintain position, repeat steps 3,4,5. Or shoot a million balls and get in FLOW.
@@ronthepoolstudent hint you can share, cut a ball 90 degrees into a rail and try using enough outside to negate the cut induced spin. A good rebound will equal 0 CIT and 0 CIS
Thank you Ann, I’m glad for your feed back. When I started playing, I had no clue about the physics of what’s taking place with these three shots. After finally understanding it, I wanted to make a video giving a simplified explanation to help those that were in that same boat as I was in, during those early days. Thanks again 👍🏻
Thanks Mbaziira, great to hear my content has helped with your Pool game. Please let me know if you ever have any questions. Thank you once again 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Your videos have made me want to get an elephant ball to practice getting pure roll on the object ball. When I’m playing my best, I “feel” the contact and get it rolling pure, for shots I struggle with I want to set up this ball to help see what exactly is going wrong. (I’ve begun doing it with a stripe, but the elephant ball will be better)
The elephant ball is super cool EBT. Had I of used a slight bit of low on the outside english shot, we would have seen the stripe hold more steady. I have used a striped ball for this also but the elephant ball gives us a clearer visual. Another thing I would suggest is to video your shots. This way you can play them to watch what happens in more detail. Thanks for watching and let me know when you pick up your new E ball 👍🏻
Hey EBT, I wish had thought of this when making the video. I just used the elephant ball on that eight ball shot when the cue ball was frozen to it. I hit the shot at various speeds and watched the stripe as the elephant ball traveled into the pocket. The wobble changed with speed as well as where the ball entered the pocket changed due to speed variation. Note: I also placed paper reinforcements so the two ball would align exactly the same for each attempt. The paper reinforcements also were placed so the two balls rolled up against each other to assure they were always frozen for each attempt. I may have to make another video on this shot alone once again 🤷🏻♂️
@@ronthepoolstudent the more information when practicing the better! Yesterday mid session I switched from a Aramith tournament (single logo) cue ball, to a black measle ball. Instantly I could see I was imparting way more spin that I intended, and I quickly adjusted and started to play better. My cue ball control went up from the subconscious extra feedback I was absorbing. It was shocking to see the little black spots spinning much more than I realized.
@@EhBitTV 100%, by experimenting and changing up equipment, we get that much valued feedback. I’m now going to shoot a slow motion shot from above of a cut induced throw shot with clean vs dirty balls. I’m thinking this will really open the eyes of many players.
@@ronthepoolstudent the other day I was messing with a full-ball hit with extreme siding on a 9-foot table to see how far I could throw the ball into the far corner pocket, with the normal pool hall somewhat dirty balls I was able to throw quite a bit. Aiming the full-ball hit far outside the pocket, and throwing it in,
Kudos on suggesting a fellow pool players' channel! 1st shot: Frozen balls can't be double trapped so that's a legal shot at least in APA, BCA, WPA. 2nd shot, I was taught to use a touch of outside so I didn't have to compensate aim spot and it counteracts the "push" or throw on the ob. You're counteracting with similar friction so the cleanliness of the balls isn't as critical. Dirty balls cause more throw but the English with also have more friction with dirty balls. I don't know how true it is. I'm not good enough to test and tell if it's true or not. When you get the dirty balls maybe you could test if using the same outside on both clean and dirty is similar instead of having to compensate differently for no English. Maybe it's not a video but I'd be curious if you get a chance. Thanks for another great video, Ron!
Thank you Rodney, I’m for sure going to put together a better video which will compare dirty to clean based on an identical shot scenario. I’ll be shooting it in slow motion so we should see the real difference. Thanks again and stay tuned 👍🏻 PS, thanks for the explanation on the frozen eight ball shot 👍🏻
@@fixitrod4969 I’m hoping the bar that I play at on Sundays will do a trade with me for a brand new set of Aramith balls and exchange for the ones they have on their table which are super dull and old.
Great video on SIT and CIT, especially for novice players. The one thing I'll point out is at 9:30 you said, "if using inside spin you aim to over cut and using outside spin you under cut." That is not true and WAY too simplified. Let me explain: Im assuming that you mean cutting the ball thinner as "over cutting." I get that you're not trying to make a super complex video but me thinking this exact thing, because i saw it on youtube, caused me YEARS of missing shots. The statment is true ONLY if hitting ~1/2 ball at a slow to medium speed, when CIT and SIT are the greatest and deflection is the least. The issue arises once speed/distance increases because deflection increases. The effect of deflection is greater than the effect of CIT and SIT at higher speed. Even more so if its greater distance. For example, the 8 and 9 are on opposite short rails and cue ball is only ~10-20° cut, 6-8 inches off the long rail. So, gotta have a good stroke behind it, using high inside to get it to opposite end of the table, via 2-3 rails. If i aim that shot thin, using inside, i will miss 95% of the time. (Ask me how I know.😂) We'd actually have to OVER CUT with inside, as much or more than a center ball hit because the deflection is so great.(thats using a revo shaft so even more true with maple.) If the distance is greater, then its even more true because deflection will have more effect. Sorry for the long novel, complicating a topic you were trying to make simple.😂 I've been playing pool 9 years and wasn't until the 2 years ago i realized "over cutting inside, under cutting outside," is only true for very specific conditions. Was 7 years of frustration, missing fuller/thinner than 1/2 ball hits, with english and speed. Hopefully, you make another video explaining the effect of deflection vs. effect of CIT/SIT. Its kinda tough to simplify and make a general video because it will vary depending on equipment. Only way to understand it fully is to practice.
There may be an issue in that I only use my low deflection Z3 shaft cue when making videos. My equipment may be very different than other player’s. This being said, each player will need to set up shots to not only learn their own cue, but to also learn how much compensation will be required per the angle/speed/spin of each shot. This is why I say to players, set up paper reinforcements, then shoot shots over and over again with differing speeds and spin rates. This is the best way I’ve found to give me accurate feedback. Once I grasp the physics behind various shot angles, I can then adjust and compensate correctly. Once again, I strive to keep my videos simple as all this can only be learned by the individual when they experiment. This is how I have learned so quickly. It is my hope by sharing drills and exercises that I have used, this will encourage and motivate players to add these to their practice sessions so they too can learn at a more rapid pace. Thanks for your insight once again DD 👍🏻
I find I'm way over cutting inside spin shots using the overcut logic that's out there. I'm mega struggling how to "aim" when my cue stick is not in the middle of the cb because I use the stick to aim. Do you use the center of the cb to aim? Idk, the better I get, the less I know.
@@brett6314 that’s what a friend in Florida and I were just discussing ten minutes ago. He’s a super strong player and we both agree, the more we learn, the more we realize there’s so much we don’t know. As for using inside, shoot my four ball rotation challenge where the object balls are at the first diamonds 1” off the cushion along the long rials. Start with ball in hand around center table. Shoot three cushions on each of your shots, always trying to make it back to center table. This will make you totally understand aim with throw because your cue ball will never be exactly at the same location per every shot. This is a FANTASTIC way to learn the physics of using inside english. Thanks Brett 👍🏻
@@brett6314 I am shooting the challenge in this video, start at the 3:30 mark. See link below: 3 “must-have” position shots ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aEVNIKWEE7c.html
The 3 simple rules. 1) When shooting a cut with centre ball overcut slightly. 2) When shooting with outside spin (Earl Strickland a big advocate) aim directly at the contact point - the spin counteracts the throw and no compensation is needed. 3) When using inside spin then compensate as you say in this video - but (at my level) try to avoid such shots!😀 If anybody wants to listen and learn from Earl just do a search for 'Earl Strickland Presents.'
Outside spin will throw the object ball a ton at finesse speeds with lots of spin. Shoot the 9-10 drill for instance and you’ll learn this very quickly. See link below, this was a video response to a subscriber’s question: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--YcW5v0zRUM.html
@@ronthepoolstudent Thanks for the link Ron. So outside spin and throw DON'T cancel each other out on slowish shots it seems. I wonder why Earl (and others) mention it so much.
@@cueball5858 aim is very different when applying lots of spin at slow finesse speed I have found, this is why the exact same shot can at times be aimed differently. Even with clean balls, I see considerable throw when trying to spin the cue ball with max outside. Once again, matching up speed with spin with our stroke is a must. Also, have you succeeded at the 9-10 challenge?
@@ronthepoolstudent Hi Ron, the 9-10 challenge is top of my list when I next go to the pub for practice, probably Friday before the other guys arrive and we play friendly games of scotch doubles. Today's comp is more serious but I won it last week so something is working! I watched a video yesterday where the guy, an amateur, explained that as well as having a loose grip what helped him a lot was having a very flexible wrist as it kept the cue level throughout his stroke, so it was more like a piston than a pendulum. He's also abandoned trying to keep his elbow up and feels his stroke is much better for it as he's now able to draw the ball the length of the table without giving the shot a lot of power. I'll give it a go on Friday as it always feels a bit unnatural to me trying to keep the elbow fixed high and my draw shot is pretty feeble.
@@cueball5858 thanks CB 👍🏻 When we make a mechanical change. It takes time to ingrain the motion as you know. Let me know what you eventually settle in with.
You say to over cut when using inside English (left in this case). Over cut means you want to hit less full on the object ball or aim more to the left of the pocket. When I use left English for this particular shot I have to aim to the the right of the pocket, in other words, I am hitting the object ball fuller than if I didn’t use left spin. If I don’t do this I miss the pocket to the left. What am I missing from your explanation?
Humm, with inside gearing spin, you MUST hit thinner to over cut the shot otherwise the reverse spin will throw the ball short of the pocket. Your cue is most likely squirting the cue ball to the right which makes for a thinner hit from where you’re aim point truly is. I’m fortunate to shoot with a super low deflection shaft so my aim point is the spot I intend to contact on the object ball. Test your cue’s deflection with the shot shown in the video linked below: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RQk__o4ac1U.html
I do have a Revo low deflection cue. I did go to the suggested video and tested it and it definitely is low deflection. In your aiming with spin video of a month ago you say an inside spin shot will appear to be an undercut. That statement agrees with what I said in my original comment where I said I aim less full (undercut) when using left spin. However, this seems to contradict what you are saying in this video. So I am still confused.
@@scooperjs not sure if the angles are apples to apples per each video which I’m sure they are not, so in this video, you MUST aim to over cut when using inside spin when shooting this shot from this angle.
Hi there Ron. Thanks for the video. Really appreciated. But I thought that when using inside spin, we have to hit it a little fuller on the OB. A little thin when outside spin is used. Am I correct? Please correct me if I am wrong. Btw, great vid.
Thank you Ljs. It’s actually the opposite. Using outside spin will throw the object ball in the direction of the cut and inside spin will apply a gearing affect that will grab thus throw the object ball short of the cut angle. Keep in mind; speed and amount of spin will dictate your aim point. This is why it will require you to set up duplicate cut shots (marked with paper reinforcements) to then experiment. By testing various speeds/spins along with every combination of both, you’ll begin to understand the physics of these shots. From that, you’ll more quickly understand how to stroke these shots and compensate your aim point depending on the speed/spin rate you’re applying. Thanks again for your question and hope that makes sense 👍🏻
Hi. I am very curious as to why this shot of shooting across the cueball to throw the object ball that was frozen to the cueball (the first shot of the video) into the pocket would be illegal at all anywhere. There is no double hit on the cueball, right? Could you please provide one or more links that explains the illegality and why?
I’m heading out to shoot with the big guns now so you’ll need to look it up maybe in the english players rule book. A couple Englishman weighed in on the YT Short video to say it is illegal 🤷🏻♂️
A double hit is a double hit. Double hit is probably the foul that is gotten away with the most. Mostly because it turns into an argument everytime.. I digress... I believe BCA my have a rule about being at a certain angle then its not a double hit, even if you technically double hit. From the angle you're shooting from its unlikely that you are double hitting. Especially with a maple shaft because its more likely to move out of the way, via deflection. If you want to know of its ACTUALLY legal, set your camera to a high frame rate setting and/or slow motion looking close and directly where you're comtacting the cue ball. If you double hit its a foul, regardless of country or sanctioning body. Unless of course there is a rule about the angle. I know APA has done away with that rule because of its in accuracy.
This video is only meant to help understand CIT and SIT. To get this far, these players most likely understand their cue’s deflection. Besides, if they are shooting with a low deflection shaft as I do, they can aim directly at where they intend to hit. This is why I won’t switch to a carbon fiber shaft, my maple Z3 is amazing as I find there is no squirt hardly at all.
@Ron, “The pool student” wow, I ordered a predator Z3 and sent it back immediately, because of the amount of deflection , im playing with a lucasi maple shaft at the moment , but am intending on just going with the revo.
@@chriscarman6305 The Z3 maple or the Revo shaft Chris? The Z3 maple shaft I have, (they are all 11.8 diameter) has barely any deflection over the Revo I have found.
If you put spin on a shot , there will always be deflection , always . And BTW, the pause causes me to miss a lot , im working on it my self , I just got an ass raping from my instructor because of my set , there was no pause , ughhhh
You mainly need a smooooth transition with some sort of hesitation in your back to forward motion. Also; I think of pushing the cue forward that first inch then accelerate.
