I’m on a journey with AAA, especially with the hugely controllable Durr gun.. I’ve got lots to learn and can’t wait to shoot some fine finish work ..I’m happy to invite input and learn from anyone out there who is familiar with AAA .. I know it’s common to opt for a diaphragm pump rather than piston. Looking at the slowed down footage I felt the GX21 worked perfectly and maintained pressure at 800 psi.. Would love to hear about your experience and what setup you’re using.. This video for the SpraymanUK GX21FF I shot footage spraying straight airless, a perfect sarin finish at 900 psi.. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Hfcj2_GA7pA.html Naturally I’ll still be spraying straight airless and putting content on here demonstrating all forms of spraying ..DIY and Professional setups, hopefully helping others 👍 ..regards Pete
Hi buddy, I've been speaking to Martin at spraymanuk today about AAA. He told me loads of information about it I never knew existed. This set up would be amazing in a occupied house doing staircases, door frames etc, hardly any overspray and much tidier. I'm not clued up on it too much at the minute, but if the whole set up was a bit smaller that would be amazing. Great video at always Pete. Respect 👊🏻
Hello my friend, ah cool.. yeah Martin is very clued up on the world of AAA 👍 ..I’ve still got a lot to learn 😆 ..I too prefer a smaller setup in all spraying technology.. airless / aaa / especially the hoses and flexibility ..thanks for the support, always great to hear from you 🙏 regards Pete
Great job pete thanks for sharing,so much information in this video and what a lovely finish with virtually no overspray,it looks like airless is the way to go for a really fine finish where you can really control the pattern size+control overspray with a soft spray technique,i think you could make some serious money painting kitchen cabinets with that high level finish,as a painter who works in private homes i have seen some kitchen cabinets that were sprayed that were far from flawless,with your technique,skill and system you would blow these guys out of the water
Thank you Edmond for the kind words, I always appreciate your support and feedback.. I have huge admiration for the refinishers out there and I like how that technology, including the products being sprayed can (and will) cross over to the P&D market.. AAA technology is taking off in occupied properties and you certainly won’t get a better transfer of material and finish than that of AAA ..Hope you’re well my friend and having plenty of spraying success 🙏 regards Pete
Ah! I now see why client of a developer I know would like doors sprayed in a Morrells product... Morrells applied with AAA must be exquisitely beautiful ....
Apologies my good friend, only just seen this message.. AAA is the best transfer of paint, (without going electrostatic 😀).. however the results you can achieve now with Graco FF LP tips is very good, very hard to tell.. just the transfer efficiency would improve with AAA.. I hope to do more videos on AAA in the near future.. all the best Beija 💙
@PaintHQ Thanks 4 responding...never too late! Took on board what you said & definitely welcome more disclosures & insights regarding AAA: Still on the journey🤙🤙
Great video Pete. Would love to get you up to Teknos for a day of spraying. We could do some fine finish work on some joinery if you're up for it. Let me know if you're ever in the area
Hey Jon, appreciate the feedback.. yeah that’ll be a pleasure sometime.. The high performing products by Teknos are always on my radar 🎯😊 ..I’ll be at Trade Decorator Live, Manchester.. I’ll swing by Teknos, get you a coffee 👍
Hi Pete, great videos, really appreciate the details you provide on pressure/tip/paint being used, helps immensely to learn from pros. I have similar setup, SF23 Select and Durr 2100, very impressed by the gun's adjustability, still learning AAA myself ;) I have a quick question, maybe you may help. I often run into an issue, when walls which have critical light, those are adjacent to windows, so window's light lands at around 10-20 degrees onto that wall, so when you enter a room with such wall, I often see vertical bands. * The wet film is perfect, just after being sprayed, no visible variations of thickness (I also used wet film gauge, in all sports I'm within 50 microns of difference). * I use 515 VZ tip, with H126 heated hose, I also installed manometer on paint line, between hose and whip (90cm long) so I can know pressure at the very end of paint line before paint enters the gun. My experiment showed that I loose about 6 Mpa dynamic pressure (with paint temp of 55 degrees) between pump setting (15 Mpa) and the gun manometer which reads about 9 Mpa when I pull the trigger, so if we account for yellow filter I use + 90 cm whip, I estimate having about 8 Mpa (1150 psi) at the tip level. * For air, usually I set to 20psi, with flat jet lever open in middle, round jet open 1/4 of turn. Test spray pattern show no end tails, spray pattern is nice and feathery. When spraying at 50% overlap, what I see after paint dries, is that regions where overlaps occurred, are more glossy that the rest. This create a zebra like vertical pattern, where some regions are more glossy and some are more mat. I'm using mat paint, I tried Sikkens Alphacryl Pure Mat SF, Trimetal Ultimat SF, Sigma Perfect Mat, undiluted or at max 10%. Walls are plastered brickwork, with proper primer and on some 1-2 layer of paint already, no problems of uneven subtract absorption whatsoever. Tried allowing more thick coats on purpose, till I see sags, but I can see those uneven glossy stripes on heavy coat tests too. The only way to handle such critical walls I found so far is to do cross pattern, first layer vertical then wet on wet, horizontal. Or just use HVLP if it's a accent colour wall (with just few square meters). No much problems with ceilings, but I also put cross pattern there. I tried to play with lower pressures (like 8 Mpa - 10Mpa) at the exit of the pump, good thing that this reduce overspray dramatically, but I still see those uneven mat stripes after drying, lowering pressure more and we see end of stray pattern tails. Question is have you ever encountered that kind of issues ? and if yes how do you handle this ? I'm wondering if I need to experiment with other paint or try with 517 -519 tips. Thanks in advance for your feedback :) hope I can learn few things from this issue on a journey to perfect AAA :D
Hi Dimitri, it’s so good to get your input and hear about your experiences, your knowledge is incredible 👏👏👏 ..To be honest, I too have experienced what you describe, although I didn’t have the critical light glancing across to show anything noticeable.. for me once the wall was fully dry, any concerns I had disappeared.. I feel it’s caused by the air, that’s shaping and atomising the fan.. Even a wet edge and 50% overlap, the air could be impacting the next pass.. it did improve when I lowered the air Vs airless pressure, but I would fear it could show in a critical light that you describe.. it occurs on my ceilings, but like you say, a cross hatch cures the problem.. ‘on paper’ I have no concerns about the fan, same as you, I achieve a beautiful ‘letter box’ distribution of material.. straight airless i don’t have an ‘issue’.. I’m certainly a fan of AAA, but I’ve got lots to learn.. I enjoy the challenge.. historically AAA was a feasible way of spraying thicker materials and at a production speed and efficiency that was a considerable advantage over air spray / HVLP.. I think what’s happened, is the advent of LP and FF LP tips when spraying straight airless has improved dramatically over recent years that the gap between airless and AAA has closed.. I enjoy learning all the time though 😆 ..keep in touch my friend, always a pleasure.. regards Pete 💙
Great videos Pete, really nice to see the work and finish on these sprayers. Instead of the zinsser bin though would bulls eye have been a better choice with it being water based and their being less fumes.
Hi Kevin, thanks for the feedback, appreciate the support.. good question.. I think BIN being a shellac has better blocking properties. I see what you mean about the added smell / fumes of BIN, but only a relatively small amount is sprayed (wearing a mask), purely to spot prime, before the main WB stain blocking primer is sprayed via HVLP 👍 cans of BIN are handy to have in your kit 😆 ..hope this helps my friend, keep in touch.. regards Pete
Enjoying your videos. I'm looking at adding Air assist to my airless setup. Taking in information as from a firehose. What tip size do you use ecommend for spraying woodwork, door casings, baseboard and especially kitchen cabinet face frames? I'm looking for max control rather than speed. I am leaning toward the Kremlin Xcite gun but your Durr gun looks great too. How much can you change the fan width with that gun? Thanks for your content.
Hola amigo yo quiero felicitarlo por sus excelentes videos, eres un krac dime que pistola es esa y si funciona con compresor quiero una como esa mil gracias 👍👏👏👏
hola amigo, gracias por las amables palabras y el apoyo... es la Durr EcoGun 2100, es una pistola sin aire asistida por aire, por lo que requiere un rociador de pintura sin aire y un compresor con suficiente CFM, las 2 tecnologías trabajan juntas para atomizar la pintura... de qué país eres, amigo mío, solo me preguntaba si puedo ayudarte un poco más y orientarte en la dirección correcta... saludos a Pete
Ottimo lavoro e complimenti per il video, Pete ne approfitto per chiederti un consiglio, secondo la tua esperienza e meglio Graco GS21 o Wagner PP 90 Extra?
ehi Nicolò amico mio, mi scuso per la mia risposta in ritardo.. ti risponderò sempre 🙏 ..non ho familiarità al 100% con il PP90, tuttavia con il mio coinvolgimento nel settore degli appaltatori di vernici, posso onestamente raccomandare le unità Graco , come la gamma GX / GX21 .. parlo spesso con ingegneri che elogiano la qualità costruttiva della pompa e del motore, quindi una volta che la pompa richiede un intervento, può essere sostituita senza attrezzi e a costi molto contenuti.. posso personalmente garantisco che la qualità costruttiva è eccellente e il servizio A+ Graco è il migliore del settore.. spero che questo aiuti.. saluti Pete
Another great production Pete! Excellent painting and filming. Was the Anest Iwata gun more controlled for the spindles than the Durr Assisted Airless gun? All the spray equipment must take up plenty of space in transportation, especially with the compressor, extraction and all your p&d gear!
Hey Paul ..thank you, you’re a diamond.. The Durr has huge ability to control and shape the fan pattern with various gun / air settings.. you have the potential to go from a wide to narrow fan (on the fly) with any installed tip / nozzle ..especially coupled with a smaller nozzle (I had a 309), even a circular nozzle / air cap is available.. but yeah the HVLP setup I used is equally very well suited to a staircase and spindles 👍 ..haha P&D’s certainly amount some kit, sanders, dust extraction.. it’s endless.. I started out with a ‘bag for life’ for my rollers, brushes, etc, etc 🙈 ..Keep in touch Paul with how that fence turns out.. you won’t look back! 🎨💨😆 ..regards Pete
Hey Paul, it’s all about the requirements of the tool being driven (in our case the spray gun / air cap).. first consideration is the CFM requirement of the gun.. then tank size as you mention.. the smaller the tank, the less air reserve you’ll have.. so it could be a case if you’re using air faster than it’s being stored, you ultimately will hamper performance.. it all cones down to the tool / application you’re looking to drive, there is a calculation for working out both CFM and tank size based on the tool / gun specification.. this is where my knowledge runs out 🙈 ..and I speak to Mike at SpraymanUK 😆.. the model you mention, I believe the CFM is the same as the 24ltr that I feature.. I’d have to ask, but if the smaller tank can drive a specific gun, it could be case that it would be running constantly or certainly a lot more as you’re spraying.. basically working harder to store air.. with the 24ltr I use, it will shut off periodically and fire up again once it needs to top up air.. certainly one advantage of using a smaller tank, is the weight to manoeuvre around.. for example there is a 50ltr version, due to weight I’d probably use that in the workshop or power remotely in the van and run an air line.. hope this helps a little, I’ll have to look to learn a bit more myself and put a video tutorial together all about compressors 👍 ..regards Pete
Hé Pete, some time now subscriped to your channel. I like it very much! Just bought my own graco FF. After many years painting with the brush, I now want more spraying... Could you please tell me the best tips to use for different jobs? Keep up the good work!! Greetings from Holland!
Hey Wim, great to hear from you in 🇳🇱 ..I recently traveled briefly through Holland to get to Graco in Belgium.. I’d flew into Dusseldorf 😆🙏 ..You have a great unit in the Graco GXFF and will be able to produce wonderful sprayed finishes 💯 ..With fine finish / woodwork paints, I myself prefer waterborne industrial / low viscosity (thin free flowing) paints.. so mostly spray with a FF LP 208 or 308 ..now if you’re looking to spray decorative finishes (those that can also be brushed / rolled).. you’d be needing a 210 or 310 👍 ..the .010 orifice allows for a thicker / higher viscosity material.. then for spraying emulsion (walls / ceiling).. I’d recommend a Graco LP 515 ..Vs the usual 517 that comes in the box.. you’ll gain much more control, with less paint flow, when using a 515 👍 ..Don’t get me wrong you could use a 517 but my number one bit of advise will be, move the gun fast.. you can’t comprehend how quick paint sprays when airless spraying.. hope this helps my friend, keep in touch, I’m happy to help if I can anytime👏 Regards Pete Ps I met a great contractor from Holland.. @RubenvanderKruis ..do you know him ? 🙏
@@PaintHQ Thank you very much Pete for your nice answer!! It is very much info what I like. I will get me the tips you recoment. As an "old" brush painter it is good to change some times instead of constantly fall back in my old habbits.... Yes! , hahaha, I know ( not personaly but from other painters) this dutch guy; he made spraying famous for me in the Netherlands, hahaha. I saw that he won prices with spraying. You and him are the reason I want to do more spraying. Thanks again Pete and now I go watch some more of your Utube!! Greetings!! Wim
You’re very welcome, anytime 🙏 ..I very much admire the ‘traditional’ skills using a brush and roller.. you come across to me a very methodical painter, proud of the finish you can create and looking further to advance into new techniques, such as spraying.. you’ll make a great sprayer and won’t look back 💯 ..good luck on your spraying journey, keep in touch with how you progress 🙏 regards Pete
I see you painted some spindles bannisters and stairs, any recommendations for paint to do the same? For durability... I have airless and HVLP to paint with
Sure, I’m happy to help my friend.. are you in the UK?.. I can provide links for you to a UK company 👍😆 ..Either way I’ll do my best to recommend products for you 👍
Hello my friend.. I use a lot of these products for day to day internal woodwork, incl staircase joinery.. they are low viscosity, waterborne industrial 1K products.. spray very easily, no thinning at very low pressure ..being low viscosity, I use .008 tips.. so a 208 / 308... Also the new Graco FF LP 106 is awesome on spindles.. I’ve got some short form videos on my Instagram “paint_hq“ using a 106 👍 ..Also being low viscosity, will spray HVLP perfectly, again no thinning.. WP136 Water Based Primer / Edge Sealer holmanpaints.co.uk/interior-wood/171-akzo-nobel-WP136-highbuild-waterbased-primer-edge-sealer.html For the satin topcoat.. AkzoNobel Aqualit (Supercryl) Waterborne Enamel Topcoat holmanpaints.co.uk/interior-wood/169-akzo-nobel-aqualit-waterborne-enamel-topcoat.html You get a beautiful cabinet like satin finish ..and very cost effective, especially in 5 litre cans.. Comes in white, then if needing tinting both primer and top coat can be colour matched off any colour chart.. I’ve used Holmans for years, the Holmans team are all super helpful.. Can be delivered next day if required.. If this helps at all, Holmans have a 5% discount code, across all their range, if you place your order online.. 👉 Code PAINTHQ Keep in touch my friend.. regards Pete
Nicely done Pete congrats mate. I’m not jealous at all ( much 🤣🤣 ) good bye HVLP? Mind you though, 1000 psi fluid pressure and 10psi air “kind of” defeats the object no? I mean, i know i can get good results with 1000 psi with AR2 alone but, I guess you’re finding your feet at the moment? It’s all about the Durr gun 💯 try next time knocking back to the the airless to 700 and about 25 on the air. So much more control though nonetheless 👌🏻 what do you think about the SF23? Do you see that maybe an advantage later on? Honestly i commend you dude hat off to ya! If only i could have a couple weeks with you spraying, I know I’d be upping my game for sure. Keep up the good work 🙏🏻
Hey James, thank you so much buddy, I appreciate your input.. Yeah I know what you’re saying.. what you’re looking to do is let the airless side do most of the work (atomisation), I believe 90%.. then air as low as you can possibly be, enough to shape and improve transfer efficiency.. so you’re looking for a solid even pattern across the midsection and tails at the ends.. with the emulsions, when I dropped below 800 (or 1000 psi for AR2), I got a heavy stripe down the middle.. there’s numerous factors though, heat for one.. the Durr tips are not LP, but double atomisation, suited and highly rated in fine finish work.. like I say, I’ve got a lot to learn with the gun especially 😆 ..I’ve heard all good things about the SF23 and would love to put one through it’s paces.. my only personal preference with a diaphragm pump, if I was choosing one, is to choose one that ran as quiet as possible.. that’s just me 😆 ..really appreciate all the kind words, you’re a diamond my friend 👏👏👏 ..regards Pete
@@PaintHQ now you just completely lost me 🤣🤣! That said, the only reason i didn’t buy the S23 was the constant noise of it, a mate of mine has one and although it’s a great machine it gets annoying. I’m glad you’re getting good results with the GX AA combo setup
@@swatts66 absolutely agree. I have been around one for a day and it bugged me! That said, yeah it’ll probably become less so much after time? This is why I’m going to sell on my HVLP system as i can’t bare the noise of the turbine.
Hi Ivan.. thanks for your question.. I put this AAA setup together over a period of time.. so I started off with airless (the Graco GX21), then added a compressor with enough CFM to supply the air cap.. the Durr AAA gun.. then you need the twin / airless / air line and an air regulator.. so it’s tricky to answer, it’s a setup that you can build upon.. do you have a spray / airless setup yourself my friend?.. I’m happy to help and advise some more if I can 👍 regards Pete
Speak to my friend Mike at SpraymanUK, he’s super friendly and knowledgeable about all things spray related and compressors.. SpraymanUK sell the Gentilin Compressor and all the Air Assisted Airless kit featured in the video.. please let me know how you get on, I’m happy to help any way I can.. regards Pete... ➡️ SpraymanUK 🌐 www.sprayman.co.uk/ ☎️ +44 1543 496 289 Here’s another video of the AAA setup in action.. Air Assisted Airless Setup. Spraying a Ceiling ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m-xg9xqGk48.html
