To get the drain valve off, use a high quality channel lock and place it on the nut above the actual threaded drain screw. First, I tried using a Husky channel lock and it did not work well. I grabbed my Craftsman channel locks and the drain valve came loose rather easily. I did NOT use any heat...nothing, just a channel locks. Evan, Thank you for this video!!! I have the same air compressor as you and the same bad factory drain screw!! I am going to the hardware store to buy the needed hardware to do the same as you! This will make draining my tank SO MUCH easier! Thanks again for the GREAT video!!!!!
Thanks for sharing. My drain valve has been leaking and needs to be replaced. I like your idea better and can build one for not a lot more than the price of a new manufacturer valve.
What are the pipe fittings originally used for? so I can find them in that department because I'm not having any luck specially with these 6" extension. Thanks
The last tool I used was the biggest adjustable wrench I had that could fully seat on the valve. It was pretty stripped by this point using vise grips, but came out easily. This was after using an open ended wrench, a box wrench, vise grips, PB blaster, trans fluid, hammer, propane torch, heat gun, an extractor. Threads were fine, no damage, whew!
Right on, glad you got her out. These are pretty cheap parts from the craftsman factory. Too bad they lowered their standards, this brand was a good name 40 years ago.
Suits my needs. So far, i've mostly used it for blowing snow off my clothes after shoveling the driveway or blowing out the filter in my shop vac or inflating the tires on my truck. Bout to try it for duracoating my M&P9c and a Ka-Bar.
thanks for the idea. craftsman compressor's valve has been leaky for almost 4 years now. never really occurred to me to do something about it. skipped the adapter and just snagged a 1/4" ball valve myself. humorously the drain hole was machined so off center I had to bend the extension to get the compressor to sit flat. wtg craftsman QA..
I have a nicer valve on mine, but it is really hard to open way down there in the middle, I practically have to lay on the ground to open it, gonna do this with mine.
I am not sure what they recommend, but it is a pipe thread. I would just wrap teflon tape around the threads 6x and turn it with a wrench pretty snug. Just stick with a 6''-8'' wrench and you should be fine, a 12'' wrench would make over-tightening easier to achieve. Good luck man. I am sure it will turn out fine.
Max Fitnus it came with some sealant on the threads already...I figured that I would tighten enough to see the sealant on a thread or two...and it did get tight at that point....thanks for the vid...I appreciate people who tackle repair work and then post what they learned.
Joe A Merican Okay, thanks for the comment. If it leaks, just snug it up some more. If you want to be positive the is no leak, put some soapy water in a spray bottle and let your tank get to full pressure. Spray the new threads that you installed and if it does not blow small bubbles, your fitting is not leaking. Take care.
I did not use heat on mine, but I did utilize a large pair of Channel-Lock type pliers which gave me a lot of torque. You might also have luck with some vise grips. Heat usually helps, but may change the color of your paint on the tank if it gets too hot. Good luck, sorry it took a few days to reply to your comment. Take care and thanks for commenting.
