*So amazingly quiet and **Fastly.Cool** in my room! 42db is at a whisper level. I bought 2 and installed myself.Very sturdy bracket and easy to adjust to fit windows of different size. Absolutely fabulous units!!*
Outstanding. First I called Nest and they told me to measure voltage from Nest base between Red wire (supply) and Green wire (fan) 28Vac so wring is good, then twist together red and green, wait 3 minutes, fan no start so problem is in HVAC unit. I started checking capacitor as it is the most likely cause but uF reading was close enough. Then used used your very smart tip to test fan directly with the door switch. Fan motor OK. So ordered circuit board on eBay. Meanwhile I spliced 3 ways so the door switch supplies both the circuit board plus directly the orange wire to the motor. So now the house temperature is controlled with the fan blowing non stop until I replace the bard. Family is happy. No astronomical bill! Your video saved my day!
Don't know how to thank you. Old 20+ y.o. Goodman unit. Followed your instructions from the beginning - capacitor check, fan motor check and the same thing - board was shot ( didn't have any current between fan and neutral). Got a new board from supplier , changed it in 20 min and it runs great. THANK YOU !!!!
OMG, the AC guy just left and ball parked me $2000-$2500 to replace the control board and $6k-$12k to replace the entire furnace system. Thank you for posting this. I feel comfortable in troubleshooting and replacing the CB.
Dude thanks a ton for this vid. I was able to trouble shoot my inop AC to a bad blower motor capacitor. Cost me $10 to replace. And saved me $200-$300 for a visit plus labor from an AC company. AC is running perfect so I can enjoy my Memorial Day weekend.
Great start at troubleshooting. Helpful, but missed an important option when troubleshooting. Like in the video, I connected the hi-speed wire to the door switch and the fan came on, so I ruled out the motor and did all sorts of other troubleshooting. BUT, I should have done the same routine with the mid-speed (blue wire) and lo-speed (red) wire. I later did this and learned that the motor was bad even though the hi-speed worked. By trying each of the three speeds, you can definitely rule in or out a bad motor.
This saved my sanity. My old thermostat went out. I installed another but the fan was still not running. When you said the green wire goes to the fan, a light bulb went on. I rechecked the wiring and sure enough the green was not inserted properly.
Thank you for taking the time to make and upload this video. It gave me the confidence to try and fix it myself, which I did. Many blessings to you sir!!!
My A/C just went out today. I Googled the problem and I chose your RU-vid video. I did exactly what you did. I'm not gonna lie, I was scared as hell and it worked. It started working so it might be what you said. I'm going to take tons of pics of the wiring and fix it myself. Thank you so so so very much!
I followed the troubleshooting step by step and had a bad control board. Found one for $140 and afraid to find out how much I saved by DIY. The only exception was the new mounting holes didn't match the old ones. I cut a 1/4" piece of plywood as an arc/ short buffer behind the board and used drywall screws to complete the mounting. Great vid and tips!!
Thanks for taking the time to produce this video. Had this exact problem today, wired the motor straight to the breaker for the customer to be able to get emergency A/C for the day/night till I could pick up another board tomorrow morning and swap it out. Nice trick using the door switch to jump/test the blower motor, totally stealing that for the next time I run into this issue!
i did this and have the blower motor running on that door switch now, will the ac be on or is it simply just the fan running? the house is not cooling off has been running for good hour.
thats just the blower running. you need to check the unit outside: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4OAGq84mQSo.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-r8LD6rtElUY.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cnD65qX8bjM.html
This is a excellent video for any person that knows just a little bit this person did a great job explaining things . I use a close pin for the safety switch if I don’t have help
I wrote this two days ago, but failed to post. So here it is again with a EUREKA update. Thanks again ...for your amazingly fast response. We have been sleuthing since, and have narrowed down the problem. I should have mentioned that the thermostat and batteries had also been recently replaced. Also - in the process discovered some valuable information to avoid a potential disaster. There is no secondary drip pan for the condensate line; and no float switch which turns the unit off in case of clogged pipes..... which although indeed full of rusted debris, at least there were no water stains anywhere. Have now replaced all 35 ft of pvc. The unit in the attic has exceedingly difficult access and several other things have to be dismantled to even get the panel door off. However, the transformer checks out 24V ok. And the control board just has the steady blinking light and checks out fine. So, the only thing is that somehow the 24V is not getting to the compressor. No loose wires that we can tell. However, when tracing the wires from the thermostat to the attic, seems we don't have the same 4 colors so guess they must have been joined somewhere. Unfortunately its not a straight drop and they appear to meander through the walls - so cant really tell. Mystery. Our next move is to go get brand new thermostat wire and reconnect. After this we are possibly at the limit of our DIY-ness; but very much appreciate your help in what we have learned. Eureka! Indeed, hooking the thermostat up with new wire directly to the control board - bingo - the compressor started. Diagnosis is that this HVAC unit was a later addition to the house; and installer must have lazily joined old wires and attached the blue from the thermostat to the yellow on the control. When the new thermostat was recently installed the blue - according to the instructions was left off (since there is no heat pump) ................. so have now re-coded and properly connected wires and all OK. I hate to think how much time this would have cost an repair man to figure out. So - again many thanks for your instructive videos which gave us the courage to tackle all this.
Nice video. Sometimes the relays are clicking but the contacts a not working anymore (worn-out) because the relays used are barely strong enough for the current surge of the motor. I usually change those relays with higher rating ones. Also sometimes the soldering traces are cracked because now-days they use lead-free solder that is more brittle...
When your checking voltage between neutral and black (hi-speed cooling) you would only expect 120v if the themostat was set for a call for cooling. In this video, you are using the fan auto/on switch to call for fan on. You would have to test between neutral and whatever wire was setup to energize with just fan on (whether is yellow, blue, brown), so when you showed 0v between neutral and black, that would be expected. So the board seems okay at this point in the video
This was very helpful, my control board went out on in the middle of the summer with intense humidity. I added a double spade connector to the door switch power out (power line to the board). I then pulled the spade connector off the control board that powers the fan (black wire for me), and connected it the new double spade connector on the door, and left the other power out going to the control board. I then jumped my Red and Yellow which bypasses the control board and calls for AC. I now have AC running nonstop until my new control board arrives later this week. Ill wouldn't recommend leaving this on 24/7 but its an emergency solution that works.
Sir, WOW this post spoke exactly to my problem and I was able to get the fan started. Thank you! My issue know is the thermostat is calling for AC and the compressior isn't coming on. It's always something...by AC dude is coming out and will be able to make final recommendations. Either way, this video was awesome and exactly what I needed to hear in order to solve my problem!
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this video. I followed these steps and found that my control board was bad, too. The differences are that my control board doesn't have an LED and my pressure switch is wired backwards (with no label). In addition to taking pictures, I moved the wires from the old board to the new board, one at a time. I unmounted the board with all the wires in place. I mounted the new board under it, then move the wires over on at a time, starting from bottom to top. My capacitor is off by more than 5% so I'll replace that in a couple of days when the new one comes in the mail. NOTE: It wasn't mentioned but the white neutral wire needs to be re-connected before testing with the pressure switch.
+1 just for "take a lot of pictures, just because the schematic is here, it doesn't mean that is how it was hooked up." Not to take away from the rest of the video but that is a huge one for someone DIYing.
A lot of people who aren't HVAC techs won't understand why you will read 0 volts when the signal is being sent. This is because the R 24v is sent through the G terminal when you select fan on. Multi meters read the difference in voltage between both leads or the sine difference in voltage. His meter reads 0 because R and G are the same voltage and sine if there was a common terminal he would read 24 volts because they are different sine waves from the transformer.
Another trick you completely forgot is that most control boards have another relay circuit designed to turn on a external humidifier whenever your in AC mode. You can just move the fan motor wire to that connection and all will work fine until you replace the circuit card.
I used this to determine my control board's cool (high speed) is not putting out any voltage. Heat is 119 volts. Hooked the high speed to the 120 volts of the interlock switch, as you show--worked like a charm! Will switch the air on with this, until I get a new board to install. Thanks for the help!
My outside ac unit is running, the furnace motor comes on, but the fan below the furnace doesn't kick on. I have no air coming through my vents. I went out and bought a multimeter and tried to duplicate your tests. I have a trane furnace and it is very similar to the one in the video. I tested the thermostat control unit and got 24 v AC with the fan on "auto". I couldn't test with the fan on "on"mode as the switch for that is part of the front piece that comes off.... so I couldn't test that part as you did. I don't see any overflow switch but my unit is about 23 years old - so maybe it never had one... I tested the capacitor and it gave me a 7.0 reading (the unit had a 7.5 on it as yours did) that seems ok... I plugged the black fan wire directly into the door pressure on/off switch on the blower panel so it was plugged right into the incoming power. The fan came on right away - blower seems ok. I tested the voltage on the control board from the spot where the black fan wire attached to the spot where the white/neutral spot is. You got a 0, I got 120 (I think that was number) but it then started dropping lower (I think because the furnace kicked on and used some of the voltage?)... So all my tests seemed to turn out ok.... any ideas/suggestions? Thanks!!! Mike
What do you call how you used the lead on the kill switch power cable from the 120volt wall outlet to check if the fan worked how would I look up how to do that further is it a method? Or does it have a way to safely do that
Great Video, It helped me blindly get my air handler working without replacing anything(not sure what did the trick). I had a Question. Randomly my air handler will not kick on even thou the unit outside will start just fine every time. sometimes it will last all year without a prob. then go out until I tinker with it ( its in my attic) or it will not work for a day and work the next. my ideal is it might be the relay sense its a goodman Brand, but any information would help. also i want to point out I dont have a magnetic shutoff for my air handler. Thanks for your time.
Hi, the furnace doesn't turn on and the red light inside of furnace (down) is permanently on, means ?. The thermostat display AC on, probably is the fuse ?, or why the furnace and the AC do not work ? Thanks for your answer.
Could you tell me what would cause the 5a fuse to blow? Also the mother board sparked. Is it just bad and needs replaced? Where did your friend find a new one???? I see you can order online at like amazon. Do you know of local retailer/stores that would carry that part??
thank u SO much 4 this video. i wish i had a way to contact to ask what a module is, since AC repair ppl calim the reason my fan failed is a module and a near 400 dollar fix 3 weeks b4 xmas on a unit that is 14 months old. this is last time i will call them that is fact
Question, fan turns on when the thermostat is in the off position, also when the thermostat is set to cool and fan in auto. I still have nothing blowing through the vents. Any idea what that could be?
I have an outside Goodman heat pump unit. Noticed low to no air flow coming through the vents just all of a sudden. Ordered a new capacitor for the fan blower. It works and air flow is great inside until I put the top back on. I've cleaned the coils , have any idea what is making no air flow once I close the unit?
Hello, I have a question and hoping you can help. My ac blower is not working . I followed your examples. I first changed the capacitor hoping that was the issue and it was not. So then I put the fan on and removed the cool high black wire and the common white wire and used a multimeter. I pushed the button down on the door switch and it read nothing was all 0s. So, I thought maybe faulty board, but then I followed your instructions and connected directly to the door switch . Only a slight hum but that fan did not turn over. Any ideas on what it might be or anything else I can test ?
Thank you - we have learned much from your well produced videos. However, so far none to replicate our exact problem. A/C had not been used for 10 days or so. Now, when setting thermostat to lower than room temperature, "cool on" signal appears, fan motor starts, but compressor does not. Checking the compressor unit, there is no voltage across the 24V wires on the contact switch. But when manually press solenoid button, condenser starts--so voltage is not being transmitted from blower unit in attic to outside compressor. In the process we have replaced the contact switch as well as capacitors on the compressor unit. Next step? Presumably some relay on the control board? Your video showed how to test for the fan. How to test for the signal being sent from that unit to the compressor? Many thanks in anticipation of your assistance.
lindarundell1 As you already know, the remaining things to troubleshoot 24VAC. Is the transformer giving 24VAC? Then next is to see if the thermostat is working. The following video does both check: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nJVTVCVITxw.html If you do have 24VAC and the thermostat works, then check the control board and wires. From the control board, follow the yellow wire and return common wire and see if anything is loose. if you have 24VAC on the control board wire, but 0VAC outside, then you might have a broken wire (e.g. if you were working on the lawn and accidentally cut the wire). hope that helps.
Mr. please come and take a look at mine, it just stop working two day ago... motor outside spinning when it's on, but not blowing hair inside the house... What could be the problem
@@MGOSETHS that was a dumb ass answer. Sorry wendy for this idiot! You don't know that guy punk seth. If hes an electrician then he hasnt forgot you idiot!
In my case the control board was not the issue, it was the transformer. Whoever is having the similar problem make sure to check the transformer as well to see if you are getting any power to the thermostat b4 buying the control board bcs they are expensive compare to transformer
Can the relay be changed instead of the whole board? I did what you did to get the fan to kick on.. It's a 11 year old furnace.. Honeywell.. Unless you can do a video to wire the fan directly to the power so I can connect the cool wire back so the AC can turn on.. Until I get the board..
I have a tricky problem. Air handler works ok when in fan mode. When cool mode is selected compressor unit comes on and seems to be working fine but air handler shuts off. what is going on? Already replaced the 90380 relay on the handler. Please help.
Help. the outside fan is running and there is air pulling from the intake vent in my upstairs hallway, but no air coming out of my vents. I have the fan set to on or auto.
Great video! Thanks. We just had the fan blower replaced and it worked for about a week and now it does not blow. I wonder if it could be the capacitor. If they replaced the blower motor, I wonder if they put a new capacitor in. If they did not put a new one in, I wonder if it was a bad capacitor the whole time (nothing wrong with the old motor). Does anyone think that is possible? Thanks in advance for your time.
Again I'm watching a DIY Tinker video - and I really like this video. My issue is that blower wont come on when AC is on - either auto or fan. I switched the setting to heat and guess what. The blower came on - I switched the settings back to AC and it's running just fine. If I shut it off no blower fan. I do not have a volt meter so not sure how to test the safe-t-switch. Any thoughts?
I've never seen something like that before. Sounds like your blower is working and im assuming the air is cold when you switch back to AC. If thats truly the case, then Its possible that you might have a faulty control board. you should call a HVAC professional for their advice, this doesnt sound like a normal failure condition.
DIY Tinker Hello and thank you for the response. I live in S FL and have only used AC in 4 years. I live in a rental house and the landlord isn;t so nice. The outside unit works and the coil does produce cold air. The blower doesn't work. I disconnected the safe-t-switch and still nothing. Then it started and ran for quite a while. The temperature dropped and the unit shut off- now it won;t start. I just need the fan wired so that it runs with the AC - don;t care about the heat. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.
i had two questions, i didnt have a voltage meter to test the capacitor for the fan, but i plugged the fan up directly to the on switch like you did to test the fan and it did not work-but when i put the wires back the way they were and tried the a/c the fan turned on. and my second question is if i test the fan like i did and the fan did not come on does it automatically mean a bad motor or can it be the capacitor still, i appreciate any response
intermittent issues are the hardest to answer. The short answer is yes. a boarder line out of tolerance capacitor can sometimes turn the blower/fan/compressor on.
GEEZ , the guy helping me at AC place their place not open today or tomorrow AND I need to ask him again something . He said on blower motor if I disconect the cool terminal wire on circuit board and connect the bottom black wire to cool terminal that ( this is what I'm not sure what he said and needed to talk to him ) if it works ( or doesn't ) that means board is bad NOT the motor ?? OR is it the other way around ?? And yes replaced capacitor . Still the same barely running the blower not full speed and shuts down after a while with new capacitor
@@AZDESERT2024 yes it was Blower motor. Most suppliers won't sell to non ac techs / companies but some will. Johnson supply will. Call around ask if they do. Anyway found a universal replacement ( not OEM ) for $70 plus $30 for holding bracket. I don't know if you've read all my comments but I'd try changing the capacitor first for about $15. Very simple to replace and many techs carry them because many times that's the cause. They do go out sooner or later. Tested mine with ohmmeter and looked bad. Cheap easy fix. Just make sure you turn off power and either run screwdriver across terminals or use voltage detector making sure it's not going to shock you. Both outside unit and inside equipment have them just for future reference if you ever have outside unit problem. Good luck.
@@AZDESERT2024 mine did freeze up both inside and outside lines. While many people recommend cleaning both inside and outside coils in my case I couldn't get to the inside ones . My outside unit one wasn't that dirty but still washed them out. Good luck.
@@AZDESERT2024 Seems there could be several possible causes but likely will be either or both capacitor and or blower motor. And installing it was a lil tricky. Not too bad . Mine came with longer though thin bolts that stuck out too much and cut them back. They stuck out a couple inches too much preventing the motor from properly installing. Hopefully very important that you take pictures take notes on wiring back up . I did and also put lil taped on labels on each wire. Also my replacement motor was three speed while old one was four speed. The counter guy at supplier explained that's ok just need to not connect one. Leave it out.
I have a Payne HVAC package unit and the heat is working but when I switched it to cooling no air is coming through the vents but I hear the unit running. Any idea what the problem is?
I am using a nest thermostat. You have to unplug it to read the fan and power so will it read 24 volts while it's on and unplugged or is it 24 because there's something wrong?
Could someone help me? I 've been having the following problem for a couple of years: Every so often the unit outside kicks in but the blower inside the house won't! Then I proceed to change the batteries in the t-stat and then the blower comes on. It will run fine for a couple of weeks before it starts to do it over again. Any ideas? I'm on my third t-stat thinking that maybe I had a bad one :-(
I have a question for you. My blower motor does not come unless I manually push start it. I checked to capacitor and was 12.38 microfarads. The label said it was supposed to be 7.5 microfarads +/- 5%. I am obviously getting power to the unit. The door switch works and the outside unit is running. I checked continuity on the control between the red and green wires and I got 30 volts. I disconnected the one lead to the door switch and the cool wire off the control board. Then I connected the cool wire to the open prong of the door switch. When I activated the door switch I can what sounds like the motor wanting to start. I can hear the flow of electricity, but nothing happens. Then with the door switch deactivated I manually pushed the fan then activated the door switch and the blower motor started to work. I am clueless as to why this is happening of how to correct it. Any advise you could give me would be helpful. Thanks in advance.
+Woody Dropa if the label says it should be 7.5 and you are measuring anything more or less than 5%; then the capacitor is bad/wrong, that would explain why you have to manually push it then turn it on.
+Woody Dropa diy tinker is right your capacitor changed value more/less the tolerance ...replace the capacitor and also check the resistance of your blower motor relay.
