In Part 2 we continue manual testing of AIR system components and also end with Scan Tool tests you can do if you have bidrectional control capabilities. Part 1 is here: • Air Injection Reaction...
This man has demonstrated how to troubleshoot and diagnose the whole air injection system at the component level by using logic and knowledge of the system. Further he has validated all the work using a scanning tool. Any aspiring and practicing mechanic should watch and embrace this video.
I have a check engine light that that gave me a code P0410, Secondary A.I.R. system diagnosis on my '03 DeVille. After searching the web for information as to what I was in for, I came apon your series on the subject and was blown away with how you not only show repair tips but also how you go into UNDERSTANDING these systems and units. That's something that one doesn't get from alot of the shop mechanics............all I can say is BIG THANKS for taking the time to explain, in detail, these complicated systems to guys like me. Keep'em comin. I'm ready to tackle this Caddy now. Thanks again.
Such a talent for teaching. It's not often that a video explains everything clearly enough to fully understand it the first time around. I must invest in a Power Probe; they look like a godsend.
I replaced my spark plugs and had to take both air pumps on my v8 for access, nice for me as they were on top of the engine. I'd never seen air pumps as I've been running CRD diesels for years. Great explanation and appreciate your time to make this video.
That’s a good example of using knowledge and common sense together. The best kind of mind set to fix anything. Awesome video enjoyed it also good teacher didn’t miss a beat.
found your videos after having a lean code in my 2001 sonoma 2.2 flex. found out my fuel pump was only pushing 20psi. After fixing the lean issue I had a P0410. Ready to tackle that next. I've found myself binge watching your videos and thoroughly enjoy them all. looking forward to more in the future. keep being awesome.
Yes the phenomenon you found is what I call a "discovered" code. You won't get a P0410 on a lean condition... so it never shows until you fix it. These codes can be really frustrating for honest and skilled mechanics because of course the customer's impression is "you didn't fix my car right" but actually it was fixed for the original problem, it's just that the second problem surfaced as a result.
Thank you very much for such a good gift for the autotechnicians community. Thank you very much for taking your precious time to explain us how the system works We always get very good insights on how the car systems works from you! Blessings to You and your family.
Thanks bro! It's a special subset of the automotive population that recognize and appreciate my efforts. I am always happy to see there is an audience that "gets it". It only represents about 2% of the total automotive population so I'll never get rich doing this, but I wouldn't have it any other way- it's a great project and I love it!
I noticed that you do this videos with passion. When you do something with love and passion you get more than enough in return, if you know what I mean. Congratulations. People like you, who wants to lend a hand make this world much better.
Great video, on the '98 and '99 trans am's, GM put those vacuum solenoids right next to the AIR pump in the lower fender, also instead of a diverter valve to split the air flow, they used a standard heater hose T. It's pretty cool to see how they made changes (probably for the better) on this system.
Hi Matt. Merry Christmas to you and thank you very much for your very comprehensible videos! I think you are doing an excellent job in explaining the technologies and useful test methods. Just a few days ago I put some of that new knowledge to use and I was immediately able to exactly diagnose an issue with my Ford Focus! Without even touching one single bolt! ;-) Your videos are an excellent source of knowledge for me. As a trained TV technician, electrical engineer and software developer I really love the systematic approach to narrowing down an issue to the root cause that you prefer. So much better than just throwing parts at a problem... So therefore - thanks again!
Many thanks and glad you "get it". My theory is- the only times you should be breaking out a wrench are when you know 100% what to replace, or if removing something is necessary as part of the diagnosis. Indeed, usually I find most diagnoses (or at least directions) without even turning a bolt just like you did. The system works, but few people have the resolve to commit to learning it.
GREAT VIDEO Extremely enlightening,asa fairly new tech I really needed to know this.I had only had to work on a system like this once before and I was pretty much left in the dark as to what I was doing.It will be different next time.THANKS
I need to tell you I do really appreciate your time and expertise on your videos!!! I have been a mechanic in west phx. AZ for about 35 years. The name of my company is Rowe's Restorations. My big thing is not allowing people especially my customers is not to waste there money, the only way one can be successful in this is by the knowledge and know how (particurley in your theory of ops videos) I noticed how u had mentioned ur 25 degree floor, ALMOST sounds really good compared to our 112 I was in most of the day. This is actually one of the mildest summers we have ever had. Anyways again thanq so very much for your videos. Sincerely Mike Rowe
Good point- it IS easy when you have those three things. It really, really is. What is hard is getting the knowledge, and usually that's because most people don't have the common sense.
Ho, Ho, Ho, Merry Christmas to You! Ten Thousand Subscribers ! Woooooooow! Congratulations ! That's awesome Matt and it's testament to all your efforts and what kind of person your are! Don't forget, I was your One Thousand and One Subscriber! LOL! Hope you have a even better New Year! God Bless!
Thank you so much for these videos. I was pretty scared at first to get into the diagnosis part of things, and this is helping so much. I was looking at the air pump on my neighbors 2001 Cadillac Deville and was able to recreate a lot of what you did here, like making sure the air pump actually works etc. It turns out there is no electrical signal going to the motor, so now I will look at the electrical side of it. There was one weird aspect to this car that I wanted to mention here. The outgoing air from the air pump split into two tubes, each of which had a valve operated by a vacuum hose (they were both turned on by a single solenoid) prior to feeding in to the exhaust manifold. When the solenoid kicked on, the vacuum activated the valves, but weirdly this then allowed exhaust to flow the other way, back towards the air pump. This just seemed really weird to me. It looks like the valves are bi-directional, either completely open or closed. Just wondering if anyone has seen anything like this elsewhere or if I'm missing something. Thanks again!
Good vid. enjoyed it. I have a belt driven system. uses a bypass and diverter valve and an additional solenoid. still same principal. enjoy your holiday.
George Heri Ah yes, I have seen those before too- I wish I had brought that up, dang. Actually, I have never seen one that was still working, I should say- I have only seem them on older cars. Great point- once again I always find things I overlooked after I publish the video lol!!
Pablo A Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe subtitles should show if you click the "CC" button near the gear icon in the lower right of the video. I tried this once and I was like "whoa, those subtitles are not even close to what I am actually saying"
Schrodingers Box Matt thanks for answering me, that button does not appear on any side and I tried to change mocilla chrome browser, explorer ... lol. Anyway thank you very much and sorry for my bad English. Greetings from Spain and merry Christmas to you and your family = D
wow. i see how much time i can save by having a bi-directional scan tool. you can check wire integrity and if your loads are good just by commanding them on and monitoring the changes. Would you recommend the "Auto Enginuity" scan tool ? does it have alot of things you can command on? or is there another one you can recommend?
Hey, great video. I have a quick question. I am currently replacing the vacuum lines on my C5 and I discovered that the vacuum line from the AIR solenoid to the junction connected to the vacuum tank was not holding pressure. Please advise on what (if any) effect that this condition would have on the operation of the secondary AIR system and engine performance. Thanks!!
Just wanted to let you know brother that your video's can claim that they have taught an old dog some new tricks...lol. thanks a bunch for getting me back into working on cars and the info on your video well I'm up to around 10 videos for 10 successful fixes on this old beater.
Really excellent series, Thank you so much !! I now understand the Secondary Airflo system, its function and diagnosis, Your Bidirectional control showed the system was working but ... What caused the code in the first place ? Or was this for instruction only and there was no code ? Either way ... Thanks
Question: If there is no secondary air system (like on my car)what system (if any) does the vehicle have in place to deal with the rich mixture at startup getting into the cat & possibly causing restriction?
A very Merry Christmas to you! Great videos, yet again! I must say, I envy you and your American car. I just spent a month troubleshooting and repairing an AIR system fault on a '97 Volkswagen Passat VR6. Why a month? Because fixing the problem involved removing the cylinder head, completely disassembling it, soaking it in a strong, aluminum-safe solvent for THREE DAYS, then mechanically cleaning the EIGHT SAI ports drilled through the cylinder head, feeding to each of the six exhaust runners. Quite an involved process, which includes drilling plugs in the cylinder head, finding a drill bit long enough to stretch the length of the head (the carbon was so packed and solidified, it was actually harder than the aluminum...), etc. etc. etc... Decided to rebuild the head in the process, since several of the valves were leaking, and the stem seals were questionable... Sadly, no bidirectional capability (VAG-COM license is $1500...), so a lot of temporary spaghetti, momentary switches, and vacuum pumps. The real problem, though? Absolutely, 100% ZERO documentation on the physical layout of the system past the combi (diverter) valve. Nothing on the internet, nothing on Mitchel or AllData, and surprisingly, the VW forums--which are usually pretty good--failed hardcore. "Just delete the system, bro!" Well, guess what? I'm in California. That's not an option. I even had one guy tell me to pull an OBD I computer from an older car in a junkyard, covert the car over to OBD I, so that I COULD delete the system... Yeah, not even gonna touch THAT level of stupidity... I sit here, looking at your big fat tubes flowing in nice straight lines to huge iron standoff blocks on your exhaust manifold, and my first thought is "How much feces should I throw right now?" XD Ah well. Hope you have a wonderful Christmas, and a happy, prosperous and successful new year! Looking forward to seeing what you've got lined up, 25 degree garage floor or not! ;-D
Many thanks rh and thanks for the comment. My friend Terry has a video on Passat AIR Pump- his channel is Stuzman52, might try searching for it. He thinks a lot like I do. See ya next year bro!
Matt, your channel is great, thank you. I've learned a ton from you. I'm having a problem with my 2005 tundra, 4.7L motor. I'm not sure about the diagnostic process with the system, but the air path is as follows. From the pump, through a hose to an electrically operated valve. then to sort of a manifold, through two vacuum operated valves, then to the exhaust manifolds. I don't remember what the initial code numbers were, but I had 3 or 4 of them all saying that the three valves were stuck open, and I had a horrible whine during open loop. That info was enough for me to look at the pump first. Got it apart, the pump was trashed, and there was pieces of it stuck in the valves. Got them all cleaned up, replaced the pump, and all switches are opening as they should. I didn't have any trouble getting any of the harnesses unplugged or replaced. Now I'm getting P2445 indicating the pump is not turning on. I checked again, and all the harnesses appear to be in good shape, and all wires are tight. Switches are still operating as they should and the pump wirks when supplied with power. I'm not able to start the truck and check if the pump is running or if I'm getting power all the way to it because the entire system is under the intake manifold. I've been searching around, and I can't find anything that tells me how the ECM determines whether or not the pump is coming on. Looking for suggestions on what I can do to try to diagnose this. Any help is very much appreciated.
+Schrodingers Box Delayed reply, but I was able to do.ally fine a factory service manual online, and it had way more info than I was previously able to find on the diagnostics. everythj.g I put a meter on checked out. So probably late August I decided to pull the intake manifold again to take a look, and discovered that TWICE I missed a 1.5" piece of vacuum line that runs between the electric switching valve and a pressure sensor. frustrating to find that I fixed it the first time but a small oversight was causing the truck to go into limp mode.
Thanks man. Mostly from just playing around with the scan tool and all my neighbors bring their cars and families’ cars to me. The dealer manuals are really good for learning the fundamentals of operation on systems too- I have a ton of those.
Hi Matt, Merry Christmas! Where's the vacuum "bleed-off" for the diverter diaphragm? When you attached your vacuum pump to the solenoid vacuum line that feeds the diverter, the vacuum held. Once you energized the solenoid, the vacuum dropped (with engine running vacuum would be present). So once the ECM turns the solenoid off (no more manifold vacuum to diverter), the diverter still has vacuum in its diaphragm ... on the VW systems that I am used to, the solenoid has a "vent to atmosphere" so that the diverter valve(s) can close / vent the vacuum (that was present) to atmosphere. I guess the diverter itself could have a bleed in it?
***** Ah great question. It might be that there is at the rear of the manifold between the solenoid and manifold. I guess I missed it, and indeed I forgot to mention it as I am aware of these. Even so, there is no way if it was in that location that I would have been able to film it. All the vacuum connections on an LS1 are pretty much blind. I saw that you have a video on replacing AIR on a VW- it came up as a recommended video when I examined mine after uploading. I will certainly watch it!
Schrodingers Box No need to watch my stuff... it's not organized material and no real "teaching" layout, as I'm recording while on-the-clock. I'm sure there is a bleed-off, it was just something that I was curious about.
Thanks for your video. Just found my camaro 1999 z28 air pump has a filter canister on the inlet. There are a number of filter disks in it plus another filter in a small plastic housing on top of these disks in the canister. Found they were a little dirty so I cleaned them and was about to put them back in but changed my mind and replaced them with some filter cloth. Made disks out of the material and inserted the plastic housing with original gause like filter, closed canister and now found heaps of air coming out of outlet of pump, where before pump would run but no air out. Note inlet to canister is just a small pipe pointed down open to engine bay. I have the Full GM workshop manuals and there is no mention of this filter canister? Graeme in Australia
Just noticed my air pump has 3 wires. Looks like one turns on a 1 way valve on the output and the other is for the motor. 3rd is ground. You can see the valve open and close when 12V is supplied to one of the terminals and you can hear and feel the motor turn when the other teminal is supplied.
Looks like there is more to this system. The valve in the pump is called an itragal valve and there is a vacuum bleed valve on the output hose going to the T then to the 2 check valves. The vacuum bleed valve is controlled again by the PCM and is to stop a vacuum in the line causing the intragal air pump valve not to open. I have checked all these components and now have this error come back on me ! Have photos but do not think I can put them in these comments?. I love and hate this car Graeme Redman in Australia
Nice- when you commanded the pump on did you get a check engine code ? Merry Christmas Matt and thank you for another year of fantastic, informative vids. Shalom
Steve Rob I actually fully expected an engine code but I did not get one. I am not sure if it's because there has to be 2 sequencial failures or if it's because when I commanded it on the PCM knows to expect the lean. One funny note though- just prior to starting the engine I had juuuuuust remembered about the clamp still being on the AIR hose for B1. Had I forgotten that, obviously I would only have had response on one bank... boy oh boy oh boy......lol!!
Thank you and I always wanted to visit Denmark. In the states here Denmark generally brings up impressions of a very clean and beautiful country where the citizens have strong allegiance and sense of nationalism. Glad to have subscribers from there!
Schrodingers Box You are welcome if you come to these parts of Europe:-) Thanks for all the highly instructive videos. They really set a new standard in my book
I also have a 2002 trans am. I have been getting a P0410 code around 20 to 30 minutes into a trip. The AIR system should be off by then…correct ? Any insight ? Thanks. John.
My truck/SUV with 113,000 (2000 GMC Yukon Denali 4X4) didn't pass smog (Secondary Air), No codes because the battery died. Would this be the reason it won't pass? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to make your videos! Eventually I want to diagnose and repair this myself I'm really glad I ran into your channel.
Nice two part series. Thanks for doing it. I really liked how you demonstrated numerous ways of testing the system and each component. I only have one suggestion. Please quit putting down and/or, especially, insulting people who don't have an understanding of what you know, i.e. Haynes manual jockeys, forums, parts changers... My angle is that I was once in that group, but not a parts changer due to the pure financial cost of that style, because I didn't know of another way. But, it wasn't because I was an idiot. I'm guessing that other than your professional mechanic followers that many of your followers were also on that road. This is why they knew the style you propose is the better approach. I have been studying and working cars for more than 25 years. In addition, I'm a programmer and totally comprehend the computer control side. I have a comprehensive library of numerous shop manuals, engine mechanics text books, electronics text books, and diagrams. But, it wasn't until I started watching you, Scanner Danner, James Danner, ADP, etc.. that all of it came together. You YouTubians have allowed me to meld together mechanics, electronics, hydraulics, computer control systems, high performance theory... to where I am today. So thank you. I wish you and your's a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
p51302 I think people misunderstand that I am not putting down people who are beginners- I am putting down beginners who go online giving advice as if they are experts. That's what I have a problem with. It's why anytime you look online for ANY information- auto repair, medical, household repair, product reviews, even local events- there will always be thousands of asshats with no knowledge or experience who for some reason just have to put their .02 in and it dilutes the potential for valuable, reliable information.
Fantastic and Thorough Video!! My 2008 trailblazer keeps throwing p0410 for air system. Because I went to Automotive school from 1965 to 1968 I have devolved into a dreaded "parts changer"! My shop who looked at my trailblazer said his computer couldn't "command" my system to work even though I changed the relay, Solenoid check valve and Air pump all based on scanner codes! Any helpful thoughts??
Changing all of those is useless if command is never reaching the solenoid. did you check for command to the solenoid before replacing it? If there is no command you will have to backtrack to the open or short
I was told by a GM shop that it was coding for solenoid valve stuck shut. I replaced that and took it back and they said that it was now coding for relay or fuse.
I have a 2003 corvette , the vacuum solenoid has key on power and ground without it started. It seems like it might always have both power and ground. Would you know what would cause that ?
Vacuum solenoid for what device? oh sorry never mind I see you mean for air solenoid. if it’s ground side switched then a ground fault would cause that. check a diagram to verify if this is ground side controlled on that model (I am sure it is) and track down a ground fault prior to the PCM. the only other possibility would be a bad PCM which would be exceedingly rare.
Thanks Nick. Honestly mostly a combination of reading factory manuals and applying the knowledge by messing around with various components of the cars and seeing what the effects are. I have a video "Air Fuel Sensors-The demise of shade tree mechanics?". In that video you can see exactly how I "train" myself in real time.
Greetings Matt. I have a 05 Jetta and I just replaced the air pump cause it was bad. Everything seems to be working except that when I connect my handheld scanner, it shows that the test is not ready (flashing AIR icon). I have driven the car for a week and put over 200 miles and still the test shows not complete. I don't have any codes and my emissions apparently are ok but the smog station won't pass my car because of the incomplete test. Please help
Lauro Noriega I often see this with various readiness tests. It is often because the readiness test is not actually available to the scantool or it doesn't communicate. It's nothing to worry about.
May not want to front probe connector could spread pins..just want to point out. No bad intentions I love your videos and goal but we are all here to learn....happy holidays can't wait for next series. Try t-pins from rear of connector
I’m trying to troubleshoot why my secondary air monitor is not ready. I’ve completed drive cycle . Pump is good relay is good I’ve replaced check valves any suggestions
there are three reasons this would happen. First is its legitimately not hit the requirements for readiness. There are sometimes factors not indicated such as fuel level must be between 25 and 75%. Sometimes the drive cycle is not completed because proper engine temp wasn’t achieved at beginning of the cycle. all kinds of variables. The second reason is that readiness has been achieved but the scantool doesn’t recognize it because of communication issue. The final reason is it’s not completing readiness because a fault detected. Are you seeing the PCM validating AIR functionality with an O2 sensor or fuel trim response?
It's me again with same problem. My car just failed smog test!! And the reason........on board tests not ready, specifically, secondary air injection! I have done more homework and found out that my car turns on the secondary air injection during a cold start, as you've explained in your video, ECT temp must be below 96 degrees F and the system is on for a max. of 100 sec. That's the only time the system comes on same time the car is started, and of course, as you showed me in the video, the test its not run at that time. After that, in every subsequent start, the ecm is supposed to turn the air pump for about 10 at some point when the engine its at idle and ECT is below 204 degrees F, that's when the test is performed. This is what I found. The pump comes on at cold start, after that, I can't seem to detect the command from the ecm to turn on the pump or open the diverter valve. I have followed the steps on your video as much as I could since I don't have a bidirectional scan tool, but even if I did, the ecm has to turn the air pump on its own, right? Everything seems to be ok, pump works, there's initial command from Ecm to turn on, my system has an electronically controlled diverter valve, so no vacuum lines, no check valve either, the diverter valve when closed also blocks any exhaust back feed. The diverter valve when checked held vacuum and opened when the initial command to start pump came at cold start up. Could it be an ecm problem? I have no codes!!! I'm thinking that since the system turns on during cold start, there's nothing wrong with my air injection components. Im pretty sure the diverter valve is ground controlled, so a failure would trigger a check engine light. The only thing I didn't do was to check the passages ( that's right, it has two! A pipe to one end of the manifold and there's an opening right where the valve mounts, at the opposite end of the manifold) from the diverter valve to the exhaust manifold for some blockage. But even that I would think, if there's command from ecm to run the pump, should trigger some kind of insufficient flow fault, don't you think? Please help!! I'm at the end of my rope
Lauro Noriega Wow man,l sorry about that- I was definitely wrong on my last response that it was just a scantool communication (which I do often see but obviously this isn't your issue). All I can tell you is that if everything on the system is working and you confirm the O2's are going lean when you activate the system- it sounds to me like the PCM is not commanding the test to happen in the first place. Remember- the system readiness test DOES NOT HAPPEN AT WARMUP- it can't, because the O2 sensors aren't even working yet. What you will need to do is consult a service manual and see under what conditions the PCM will initiate the readiness test and then you must duplicate those conditions. Hopefully this induces the readiness test. If it does not, your PCM either has a problem OR you have some problem where when you are under those conditions, the sensors are not indicating as such, so the PCM never sees the conditions to start the readiness test are satisfied.
To attempt enhancing my learning, I try not to just think about what I learned, but how I can, or another person could misinterpret data and get the wrong diagnosis. I can see some replacing their catalytic converters when their A.I.R. system was simply not being as effective. Or, worse yet, they could replace an O2 sensor, which would make them yet another step behind the logical progression of information.
HELLO >> i realy like your education videos < they are very helpful \ can you give me advices to be like you iam automotive engineer from egypt and hope to learn more and know more how i start ? thanks
Have a 99 Chevy Blazer. SES Light just went out after I replaced the small hose from Solenoid Vacuum, maybe that helped it. I did the test on Diverter and it blows fine, with a vacuum only. But removed the Solenoid and tried to apply a vacuum one of the nipples and it wouldnt hold a vaccuum. And on the other it would show a Vaccuum that would immediately fall. So I went to local autoparts to get one, and took vacuum tool, and new one does the same thing. No holding of vacuum on either side. One side nothing at all, the other side, get vacuum that immediately drops. So I didnt purchase and replace the old one, and will see how car reacts
hi matt, by using propane to find a intake or others leaks, it's not danger, please let me know, I have watched lots of yours videos and I like them all, happy thanksgiving
Funny how that AIR solenoid looks exactly like the EGR solenoid on my 95 Formula. Even in the same area of the engine. Different Motor though, yours is LS1 (OBD2) mine's LT1(OBD1). Probably the same part since function is basically the same just a different system to operate on.
+El Camino Guy Same functionality. The LT1 engines have a diaphragm EGR on the back of the engine but the vacuum is controlled by a solenoid. The LS1's have the 5 wire Electronic EGR.
Schrodinger's Box Quantum Mekanix Sure thing, Just had to replace the EGR after testing the EGR solenoid, lines and then discovering that my big vacuum leak was the EGR diaphragm. vac pump connected to it sounded like sucking on a straw...lol. No clogged passages but why would there be, it wasn't doing anything...:-) BTW, I did the whole solenoid switch test with vac pump, vac gauge and jumper to put the PCM into diagnostic mode with solenoid on the car. Test is fairly siimple, In diagnostic mode vacuum applied to one side of the switch should be the same on the other side. If not the solenoid is bad. I hated all the expensive sensors on my old 96 Camaro but I loved the extra diagnostics I could get out of the PCM. That and the short wait in the emissions testing line. No roller tests, they just plug in and 30 seconds later it's all over with. Anyway, love your vids, we're of a like mind and I subbed which is something I'm stingy about. Keep up the good work, I think you missed you calling as an automotive educator!
Garage floor is twenty five degrees, eh? Did you just assume that or did you measure it? Only an idiot would just assume his garage floor temperature is twenty five degrees. Just kidding :-) I really enjoy your channel. It's taught me a LOT.
Hello i am the idiot who replaced the air pump right away i am a terrible part changer and wouldn't even consider calling my self mechanically inclined. I have a P2437 Secondary Air Injection System Air Flow / Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Bank 2 and have no idea what to do next. I have replaced the air pump check valves and checked that they are getting power can you please help thank you.
@@SchrodingersBox don't know exactly how to answer the question check engine light on with code p2437 replaced secondary air pump but after watching your videos i managed to test the old pump and it works check valves work aswell i was told that it could be a secondary air pressure sensor but i can't located all i see is the map sensor which i don't think could be the problem. The car is a 2015 gmc terrain
What I would need is the voltage from the MAP during idle and then during AIR activation and also the AIR pressure sensor voltage during same conditions. That would tell you where the issue is.
