P0410, P0300 Secondary AIR and Random Misfire Diagnosis Pt-1 

Dude, I am a mechanical engineer, amateur car DIY, literally you are not a mechanic, you are a nerdy engineer with a mechanic job... Love your videos so much...of all the Techies/engineers/mechanics i have met, FEW can diagnose something until they KILL IT WIDE OPEN... like you do, electronics level, engine parameters, timings P.S: YOU ARE SUPER INTELLIGENT as well.

Dude! YOU ROCK! Love the video and will check others you have. Thanks for all you do . It;s great to see a step by step, logical approach to diagnosis and repair. Keep on rockin'

I love working on cars. I wish I knew 1/2 as much as you do. Thanks again.

I'm not even a mechanic and you made this look easy. My '01 Silverado has a random misfire code and after 2 mechanics looked at it both had different opinions, and both were probably wrong. Most likely an intake leak based on what I learned here. Keep up the awesome work!

You are so great Schrodinger! I am ASE certified in brakes and thanks to people like you, Eric the car guy, and Scanner Danner, I might just pass my ASE test in engine performance. I failed it 3 times so far! I may even be able to get a decent paying job if I can somehow become as good mechanic as you guys!

hi matt that's the problem I'm having on our focus secondary air and check everything and now you just did clarified to me and change a bad solenied .I'm not one that go to a parts store to get what the scanner is telling me. you're good in details explaining what's up.thank you and wish you were closer so(car wise).keep up the good work and God bless.

Thank you so much for posting all these videos, because of you my diagnosis skills have improved. I am no longer a "parts changer" lol

Great video! I am a former Mercedes Benz tech and currently a small auto repair business owner and what you are showing is vital and I subscribed because we can all learn something. I just diagnosed a secondary air injection problem in a 2009 Mercedes CLK550 & 2001 Chevy S10 yesterday. You and I are also using the same scan tool. I believe you are using Auto Enginuity Enhanced package.

Good clip. I really wanted to watch the vacuum dial but it was flooded out. I enjoyed the part two too (part to to? Than can't be right!) . Always good to see that final histogram act as it should. Son in law's car has got lean codes setting. I can't wait to get the scan tool on it. The shop told him it was most likely a vacuum leak without looking at it. They were planning to replace a lot of hoses. I gave him my scan tool and your links.

Out of 137,619 views, you only have 537 likes!? You should have at least 50,037 likes. With all of your intellectual professional knowledge, free mind you, everyone should be trying to watch your video at the same time. GOD bless and thanks again.

Had a P1415 code only. Replaced the left secondary air check valve. The old one was definitely plugged. Cleared and ran the truck. MIL light back on, checked and it had a P1416 code only. Cleared it to just make sure it wasn't an anomaly and MIL light came back on with a P1416 and P0410 code. Replaced the right secondary air check valve. Will run it today and tomorrow and see if that is all what the problem was. If I get the P0419 back, I will run through your diagnostics and check the rest of the stuff. It's my truck, so I don't have to answer to anyone but myself. Thanks for the diagnostic info.

you're such a smart ass and i love every one of your videos lol

Can I suggest that you turn the work lights to face the wall or ceiling rather than into the camera lens. The light will reflect off of the white surface and produce a much softer light more suited to filming. Also I am still searching for that youtube channel where a professional mechanic makes videos on molecular biology.

I had the same problem but the dealer want 870.97 for my problem to find out is was my evaporation holes that was leaking.. I away ask for any part any dealer or shop.. And thank to you i got a chance to school a dealer tech... Who did the same thing... After all was done the tech worked on my car for free because it wasn't the problem.. Evaporation holes boot ends... The one going from motor to sensor. Someone there remove fuse label stud1 witch is power the air pump.. Let just say the service manager want happy when u school the pro on there mistake. So again thank u.. This video help.. I gotWas getting mad that the truck been at the dealer five time and they couldn't find the problem And something simple as leak evaporation holes...

Good stuff verifying with propane & smoke... I never got into using the propane method myself. I think because I was always worried of it igniting from the spark in the distributor cap (when I first started every car had distributors) as well as the propane stays in the shop (heavier than air). Congrats on reaching 10k subs!

Hi matt great video with brilliant audio and video quality! When u were talking about the massive clue at 8min 53sec I thought u were going to point out the low manifold vacuum pressure at just 12in of mercury I thought it should be in the 16 to 21 range anyway just an observation thanks and keep up the good work. Sandy(Scotland)

Even though that pump spins and you could hear it , it still may not be good. Still have to be careful. Your method is good as you progress. Usually on GM p0418 will tell you dead on the pump is N.G. But we still have to check as you did.

nice diagnosis

Great job well done.

There is one possibility for a legitimate misdiagnosis of the AIR pump by the shop tech. Worn brushes in the motor can cause motor to work or not work intermittently. Motors can occasionally work for some time before quitting completely. If this is case, the problem may recur. I've found that first start cold will usually result in non-start of worn brushes. I've seen this on several heater blowers. Great video. I look forward to each release. Regards

Another great diagnosis, as usual. Thanks for the video and congratulations on your 10k subscribers. Greetings. =D

Thanks to your last video where you explained it in excruciating detail, at 8:00 mark, I could immediately see the issue is with some kind of vacuum or intake leak due to high STFT values in Idle.

You are the man!!

Douglas: "Mr Haney, you sold me a defective tractor!" Haney: "No sir! It's not a Defective! It's a Hoyt-Clagwell!" Ebb: "Yeah! A Defective has bigger wheels in the front!"

It took me a week I watched videos I was able to download diagrams I mean I didn't end that research on my Milan's secondary air system which happened to be that my year Milan is the only car from Mercury that has this system. I will never buy a car with a California based emission system ever again. I had a p0410, p 0491, a p0300, and p2257. I started by changing the diverter valve, did nothing so I thought maybe it could be the solenoid, plus the 40amp fuse would blow each time I started the car. So I had over a dozen fuses just in case for a week. After I replace those I still had the same lights except for the p0300. I finally caved and did the pump the p0410, and p0491, finally went away when the new pump was replaced. Yay, then I put in the new fuse again start the car and boom wrench light, car wants to stall. it's a very high then immediate drop to low idle and check engine light. Good news is now my new pump works, but will not turn off on its own over about 40secs, even when I turn my car off the pump is still running. At this point I know I may have to do some major wiring testing. And I'm terrified of it because my smog pump relay and PMC relay are one in the same. I also noticed the fuse is not blowing anymore. So two positive so far. Still I turn my car off, run a scan the skin device once I put my car in run but immediately turn on my secondary air, or smog pump. I also noticed that the only time it would go off is if I banged on my junction box. Anyway the scan pulled up 2 opposing codes p2257 and p2258. 😭 I checked all the hoses found the hose that goes into the manifold from the diverter valve solenoid was extremely cracked and dry. that was a difficult hose to replace because you can't find them around here. I did find one at a junk yard in great condition, another diverter valve as well as the solenoid that's attached to a just in case, and out of extreme caution I even took a relay from the exact same year fusion as my Milan because that's the only one that would match to my your car. I replaced those all again, except the relay because the relay treat asked it was good. I did not know that every single time that smog pump started because the diverter was not feeling the vacuum it would which shorted solenoid which is why the pump kept going. After I replaced it all again along with the hose no change. Now though I was smart enough to turn the car off immediately and start my pump immediately to prevent further damage. I would still have to bang the junction box to get the pump to stop though which put a light bulb over my head the relay needed replacing possibly took out my old relay put in the new one started the car 1500 RPMs stayed stayed in a wrench drop down to about 80 still no range put it in drive went around the block very good came back parked turned off the car got out listened the pump wasn't running. Okay so far so good, started my car again that would be the big test held my breath turn the key no wrench and because my engine was already hot the RPMs would go into idle 60 70 RPMs no wrench I've never felt such relief in my life. I got to realize that there was something loose within the relay that was causing everything to short out because every time I hit that junction box it would shake something back into position within that relay causing the pump to turn off. Took the old relay inside my house tested it don't behold was not working properly I don't know if me constantly starting the car with the bed solenoid or the bad diverter or having that fuse blow so many times cause the relay to finally pop but every single check engine light is gone and it's not even secondary for the p0300. I hate the secondary systems and I'm going to make sure I do not have them with any other car they're so frustrating

Love the power probe

Just earned another subscriber mang!!! Im having a random misfire on my 95 subaru. Hard to explain. When you pull your foot out of the throttle at highway speed, like going down a slight hill, and then put your foot back in, like trying to get up another slight hill while staying at speed. It feels like it stopps adding fuel at the rate that the pedal is repressed. Shortly after my car throws a flashing misfire code. Its got me stumped.

I have a 1997 Cadillac Eldorado and it had the P0300 multiple misfire code. I replaced the PCV valve and that cleared my P0300 code. My 2000 GMC when I apply voltage from an outside source to my secondary air pump, it will run for about two seconds and quit. Should it run continually when powered from outside source? When I use my vacuum pump on the diverter valve, it doesn't pull any vacuum but, it does when hooked up in the loop.

Just to add to my comment below, I had a mechanic (he worked on my wife's cars for years before we met) replace the air pump tubing, and check valves on my S-10 a while back before I repaired the actual cause of the P0410 code on my S-10 truck. The only reason I had him do it at the time is because I just had hip replacement surgery, so obviously I wasn't able to crawl up under the vehicle to diagnose it myself. Well, it turns out, of course, that his replacement of the valves and piping didn't fix the problem. I told him of the code, and asked him to verify the fix when I dropped it off. Needless to say, he didn't. So, once I was well enough to climb up under the truck, (the air pump is under the front bumper on the S-10 models), I quickly found out that the pump was frozen, and also the diverter valve was full of water. Thanks for that great repair job guy!!! Again, needless to say, I won't be taking any of our vehicles to him. It's just as you said, you have to learn how to do these things yourself (which I did years ago), because you can't trust anyone!!! Oh, and this guy is a reputable mechanic in my area, and was highly recommended to my wife years ago. Go figure......

I have never done anything with obd1. Can you tell me if theres anything special a guy should know about it or is it basically the same approach as you would take with obd2?

altuplingjr Great video but when there is water in the pump where does the water come from?

hey ther great video i was woumdering how do i check if my pump works..or of silniod is bad it wond turn on because i have no check engine light on just a red x on my scanner

Will this apply to a 2000 Mercedes S500? (P0410) Awesome video. Thanks so much. GOD bless.

Actually the guy that says he will replace the parts the dealer said it needed ass is covered..since he is just changing parts ...but of coarse it is a good idea to check the car out best you can to see if the dealer was correct... like a new water pump ac compressor etc... which would be easy to check to make sure...but some motor issues are much harder to nail down...

When you tested the solenoid, where did you put the leads from the volt meter or multi meter? GOD bless and thanks again for your patience and knowledge.

Thank you I will continue to follow you stay blessed

Mayberry mechanics you rock

Beautiful video bro, only one question... Why do you live so far away? (Chasing down an intermittent P0306 on an 04 SRX with 64k miles in LA where it gets really hot.)

I completely agree with you that a proper diagnosis is imperative to a successful repair. However, many customers don't want to pay for an actual diagnosis because Autozone, Advance auto, or their grandfather with a code reader pulled a p0171 and said its a MAF sensor. Obviously that was just an example, but that's a huge problem these days and I really DON'T BLAME THE CUSTOMER! It's these Big Box part stores creating a world where you just replace parts.

Thanks!!!

Just realised as u r in Denver which is "the mile high city" that would have an impact on your vacuum readings, sandy

Just wondering if for emissions inspection purposes did owner ever bring back to have you replace the bank1 catalyst?

My 2001 GMC Sonoma has me confused. It has only one code, P0410. The pump cycles and sounds fine, tested the diverter valve and it operated correctly, the check valve seemed to have a little resistance so I bought a new one which felt the same. is there a chance the pump could just have a weak flow? Or did I miss something? Also the vehicle is California emissions 2.2 flex fuel.

99 Tahoe po 300 my compression all are 120-125 but cylinder 5 is 100 what can you advise me

You are excessively intelligent, fun to watch

Hello, any tips on how to get the Secondary Air Injection "Monitor" to set? Both pre cat O2 sensors have been replaced, both air check valves at the manifold as well. I've been following the drive cycle best I can in the morning, it's just starting to get cool in the mornings where I live to about 65f ambient temperature. Any tips are greatly appreciated, getting a little frustrated with this 01' 5.3 Silverado. By the way, no codes no miss fires. All the other monitors have set except the infamous Secondary Air Injection.

I am extremely lost and hope you could help me answer a question, there is a hose that comes off the electric switchover on the secondary unit, I have that is just cut off, i have no idea where it hook up to the engine?? It's some kind of vaccum

Man,I wish you lived in Florida!lol.ive got a 4.3 vortex in my 2000 Sonoma that keeps throwing po300.i can’t figure it out .any clues on diagnosing steps?it showed 4 out of 6 cylinders misfiring.you think it’s the spider injection

Change the solenoid, bill for a pump. Sounds like proper protocol.

Btw i loved your Maf video. Another 2%er right here.

also quick question. I have p0410 code. when I start car it has loud vacuum noise. but after a few seconds to 30 seconds it stops. Do you think it's the part you replace in video. Solenoid

This is more a question. When you put the tester on the air pump to see if it worked , how did you know what was positive and neg contacts?

Does anyone know What would the vacuum hoses part numbers be ?

Hello, I have a problem with the check engine light on my 2012 chevy silverado I did a 1200 miles trip most of the time was raining and the light turn on on my way back, I took the truck to auto zone and they said it was the mixture of gas and air wrong so they told me that the air filter needed to be change light went off for one day and turned on again, now they say could be the fuel injector or the oxygen sensors so They don't know what they are doing, I need help finding the problem ( I try to take it to the dealer but here where I live they are always one or two weeks behind on work) Woul like to fix it myself, Thanks for reading this and I hope I can get an answer to my problem.

You refer to putting air into the manifolds. I assume you are referring to the exhaust manifolds and not the intake. If I am not mistaken, air, from an A.I.R. system, only adds air or oxygen to the exhaust stream in order to accelerate the heating of the catalytic converter by giving the oxygen sensors a lean signal in order for the pcm to richen the mixture whereby getting the cats hot faster.

Good morning ,I have a Saturn 2001 1.9 I replace. bell tensioner, before I did it was fine after that code 300 and 410?can you please help

got the pump to work now i have crank but no start i realize i wasn't getting any pulse on my injector connector but i have power on the left side of the connector, any suggestions.

can you tell me the correct name for that solenoid. I have a Silverado and need it but autozone, pepboys can't seem to find it. Secondary valve solenoid maybe? Help.

Hey What scan tool software/hardware are you using on you laptop/ODBII?

hi i was wondering i got a code p0413 on my 2010 volkswagen beetle..its a 2.5l engine..secondary air injection system valve A ckt..we replaced combi valve? could this be the problem?

i have a 2000 gmc sonoma came with a k.n air filter. n i got p0410 but the smog pump hoses don't connect to nothing they're just there don't see where to connect them if you can help it will be much appreciated

Great video I learn a lot by watching you're videos. I wanted to ask where could I get the software that you use for diagnosis issues.

$700??? Are you kidding me? It wasn't even the correct diagnosis!! I just replaced the air pump, solenoid valve, and air shut off (diverter) valve on my truck(they were all corroded from the failure of the check valve to the exhaust manifold) in about an hour by doing it myself. The parts were only around $200. So, going by a shop's labor calculation, I probably saved myself about $500+. Mine is not nearly as easy to get to as this, as it is under the truck on the passenger side in front of the motor. When I hear of things like this here, it really pisses me off!! Great job on the video!! I follow them regularly, so keep up the good work!!

Sandy from Scotland beat me to it, but I also thought you were going to point out the very low vacuum in combination with 0 percent throttle as indication for a vacuum leak. Another thing: when you test with the bad solenoid toward the end of the video, you talk about the computer maybe compensating for the air pump's activity by temporarily increasing fuel trim (if I understand correctly). This seems unlikely to me since a lean mixture at the cat is exactly the objective of the pump, in order to heat it up. At least, that's what I learned from your previous video and from ScannerDanner.

hello Schrodingers Box im not getting any p;ower to my secondary air pump any suggestions

Great video. Plan on taking care of my p0410 on my Intrigue this weekend. What is the name of the tool that your putting 12 volts to air pump? I have found meters but nothing you can put power through.

I have hot violent stalling while driving 01 Silverado new plugs wires, intermittent but Consistently only with heavy load and hot engine

Matt could I get your opinion if you have one on the subject? Oriellys auto sells an Obd2 scan tool made by bosch which im thinking about buying... It can be viewed on their website...the model # is 1300. Im thinking about that one partly cuz it can read obd1 and I have a couple of older cars that are obd1. Also I like the fact that I would be able to display 2 graphs at once so I could kind of be like you...a little bit - haha. Just wondering if you wouldn't mind taking a look at it & see what you think of it cuz I can't find any reviews on it...I think its a new item. Thanks

So I am working on an Audi A6. I hook up the power probe to the pump motor it turns on real quick but blows the little breaker switch on the power probe. So I am thinking it is shorting out inside the pump. the codes it throws is for insufficient flow to both bank 1 and bank 2 so I know it's a component affecting both banks. I am also thinking if it is shorting out there should be a fuse that is blown but I have yet to find it but when I do it it should be a good sign of what I think the problem is. Thanks for your videos I am also a subscriber to your paid channel.

What kind of gizmo do you use to put 12 volts to the devises for testing. that is neat.

Where do you buy the replacement pump ? And assembly

Can you explain in simple terms what this means?.......P0410 MERCEDES-BENZ Description An air pump is used on the vehicle to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) grounds the Air pump relay control circuit which energizes the Air pump. The PCM also grounds the Air combination valve vacuum control solenoid circuit, which energizes the Air vacuum control solenoid. Vacuum is then applied to both Air combination valve diaphragms which opens the shut off valves. The PCM enables both circuits simultaneously when Air system operations id desired. When the AIR system is active, then Air pump forces fresh air into the exhaust stream in order to accelerate catalyst operation. The AIR combination valves replace the conventional check valves. When the AIR system is inactive the shut off valves prevent air flow in either direction. GOD bless and thanks again.

Is the air pump also a purge or charcoal canister?

Where did you get your vacuum pump, Matt? I keep meaning to ask. It looks perfect for our type of work.

I have new valves my motor winds at start up my hose's are good but I never checked the solonoid can that be my issue.

What is the scan program you're using on your computer?

Please!!!!! Need help. I have the same vehicle and recently had to diconect the battery to change ignition. Now I need to get it smogged and the only sensor not reading is the 2A. I've done numerous drive cycles and probably 30 cold starts and let it run for 2 1/2 mins and nothing. I hear my secondary air pump turn on and it stays on for about 50 sec then turns off. I don't know what to do or what to check. It has no codes and no issues and all other sensors are ready besides this one. Any advice. Please.

I have a 2000 Silverado 6l 2500 when punching it to pass she will spotters and pops out the tail pipe.there is no check engine light and no codes.i have put a new MAF sensor in and new plugs. Checked the EGR and it's good. Put propane around the intake and no change in Rs.i have checked spark gap on all 8 it's got good spark.the fuel line pressure regulator check ok no leaks.it starts up ok and when applying gas in a regular take off and going up steep hills it's ok.i haven't checked the fuel pump. Could I get some help on this one thank you.

Code PO300 in my case 2 & 4 cylinder spark weakens as I Rev higher rpm. Can you give me an idea what to check for

Matt could you identify the tool make / model in notes per new videos. Thanks walt

diffective thats hilarious

What cable do you use to connect to the ecm?

hello, I just wish u could help me with a misfiring problem on my 03 chevy suburban? I have replaced fuel pump ,filter plugs wires coil injector,,the code I'm getting is p0307 ,but it did not made a difference ,still runs rough , I have tried everything but no luck ,great video it gives me more ideas to try,thank u

Are all secondary air injections the same?? I have a 2013 impala 3.6L and I pretty much checked everything.. i changed out both my check valves and my codes turned off, I checked my pump and it worked good.. after I changed my check valves the codes went away but a week later, I got code p2444 pump stuck on.. I'm lost on what to do now.. I don't see a diverter valve and I don't know where my solenoid is.. maybe you can guide me in the right direction?? please??

What scan tool are you using? AutoEnginuity?

Do you know where its located in 99 k1500 suburban

wondering ive seen the video and since my truck missed emissions due to incomplete secondary air injection drove it for over 500 miles for ovee a month and still no complete status what could be wrong? change the pump the check valves and the solenoid..... i never had a check engine light so no codes but its still incomplete -__-

I have the same problem with my trailblazer I spend 1,800 for this mechanic trying to fix secondary air injections, he changed the air pump, air solenoid valve, purge valve and that one thing next to the gas tank ,nothing change the code po410 still pop up I really need your help sir

95% of the cases is not the technician fault. he maybe diagnose the car correct but the "sales department" will lie and try to make the customer to replace many parts as possible. In Europe works like this at dealers. I was personally asked by shop owner to miss-diagnose many things , pulling out codes by removing electrical plugs (and print DTC data for costumer) , replacing whole EGR system (valve , cooler, tubes , etc) for a 0.5 euro gasket leaking ... sometimes just the labels are swapped but parts no .... sometimes parts are taken an replaced (stolen) even from even brand new cars in the showroom too... ... it`s an entire mafia behind spare parts from manipulated varranty, they need to get rid off (abusive sell)..... a dealer is stealing from the brand he represents by manipulated reports, warrany, etc and also from the customer. in most cases , the personal in the shop is just working for thieves .....

I have a car with that code (amateur here) my pump is noisy at the start, and most importantly my engine is noisy (top of engine, rattle at most RPMS below 2000, probably lifters or so called tappets) its a 2.2 petrol peugeot 407 2005, had black Engine oil when i bought it used, so i used the Oil Flush before change (and left it for a while sorrowfully i guess that's why) and changed to 10w40 semi-synthetic Nulon (sydney australia) the engine have 164k Kms on it so not that much, after oil change, noise was there.... Engine repair by STP silenced the noise buy only for a while. Any clues? the P0410 is now gone, i guess it was a loosely cap hose near radiator top that dropped the vacuum ... but now after cleaning air intake, got P0075 Air intake solenoid fault..... Air intake valve is operational even when Key is on "accessories" mode.... any insight? Have to mention too that the car is quite responsive after Spark plugs replacement and intake clean etc... but still the rattle.

Amazing video. I am going to check my solenoid soon. I cannot get my secondary air monitor to set. My tahoe had major misfires and i fixed it with new plugs, wires, and all 4 oxygen sensors. My scan tool can turn on the air pump but wont show me O2 data at the same time. I will have to open the diverter with a vacuum pump, hot wire the air pump and monitor the O2 reaction. I fear my O2s are cheap Chinese junk and respond slow. They dont react at all in open loop. That or the aftermarket cats on it are plugged. Even in closed loop they dont switch high low in a nice wave. It kinda skips a bit. I have no DTC codes or check engine lights but multiple codes for air and O2 voltage in the tests ran parameters. All my readiness monitors are set except air. Thoughts?

I have a p0410 code. my mechanic first suggested the pump relay. that took the check engine light off for a bit but still the code stayed. I took it back and now he is saying it's the check valves? would that have anything to do withe the p0410 code? it's also a 2001 chevy silverado

how do i know, or how do i check to see if my pump isn't working.. thank you.

A co-worker of mine once had a Nissan Maxima. The car was driven through a puddle once. The electrical system would cut out randomly ever since. This means no electricity to anything in the car and the car dies. The car was taken to the dealer several times for repair. Each time, it costed him around $1500. How would you approach this intermittent problem? BTW, he finally had to sell the car because it was dangerous to drive this car. I told him that I wouldn't pay the dealer after the first attempt. The Dealership was paid to fix a problem, not randomly replacing parts at inflated prices.

I live in thornton Colorado. My 01 Chevy blazer is having this code. If you are still working on these can I get your number if you would like to take on mine? Would love to pay you over a big Chevy dealer.

So why does nobody do this vehicle check on a Cadillac deville from 2000 on it’s a common problem... if the check engine has been on to long and extreme cold during the winter in ND -10 is a high

My bet is the mechanic diagnosed the solenoid was bad but there was more money to be made by saying the motor needed replacement. Replace the solenoid and the car is fixed and say you replaced the motor and pocket the money.

This guy and scanner danner confuse the chit out of me...

Owner of Tahoe gets diagnostic review from ASE certified tech saying it needs a new airpump. Tech offers to do job for 700... Owner decided to... hmmm... replace plugs and wires. Tahoe runs like new. Case closed. :P

Can we make half the verbal back ground noise go away and double the movement of hands?