Hi Ray, brother, you done good!!! That system is now going to deliver the air that compressor is capable of! We do live in earthquake country, add a couple of heavy straps to the compressor, walking is one thing, falling over due to shaking is another!! Keep it up, looking forward to the next installment!! A+
Hello Ray, I am very impressed! There are a lot of RU-vid presenters who can not learn or take advice. You adopted the suggestions with grace. I am sure you will be much happier with the upgraded system. I can certainly understand the drive to do it cheaper but when you are going to be running all that piping in the trusses etc you probably won't want to do it twice. Save a lot of cussing in the future. Very nice job. I will be watching future episodes to garner ideas for my own installation. Take care. Doug
I also used the Maxline kit, with my new 80 gallon compressor. I'll never use anything else after using it. Your shop keeps getting better and better! Looks good!
Looking good, sir. I used the smaller version of that line when I was still in the garage but planning to go with the 3/4" line in the new shop. It works great! Hope you are well, sir. Tom Z
Hi Ray, looking good. I hope it had finally cooled down for you. It has finally cooled down here and of course it has started to rain. Your air system looks like it will work really good for you. I like the way you are planning before you do. Keep up the good work. See you soon. Bill from Seattle.
Looking good, Ray! Sounds like you have your air system all planned out. Copper does get expensive so I understand why you went with the Maxline. Take Care, Reid
Very informative video on your compressed air system. Thank you! I am curious on how you joined the copper lines and fittings. Did you "sweat" them together like water lines? On braise them? Or weld them ....melting the copper and filler rod. I'd be afraid sweating could not hold the high pressure of compressed air lines. Thanks again for showing you r layout and the other tips!
I went threw two 125 foot rolls of that 6/3 wire in my garage to put five 50 amp plug sockets in. That copper pipe also starts adding up in price fast.
Cool the air before it enters the tank to prevent moisture,,, l have drops but when I put a roll of 1/2 inch copper tubing between the compressor pump and tank I still had water,,,now I hardly ever get any water in my system,,,and run you intake through wall to outside really quiets it down and you get fresh air to compressor.
I did all 3/4 copper,,,reduced to 1/2 at tool connections,,,with t drops at all,,,all high runs for moisture to fall and best thing I did was put a roll of coil copper tubbing between compressor and tank dropped my air temperature by 85 degrees,,,most of condensation will come from hot compressor air entering cooler tank
Speedy's Garage did a couple videos on installing maxline. He had a rig for straightening the coiled tubing and something for nice corner bends. Worth a quick watch...
I don't live in your area but I used some 2-4 hole manifolds that I found at menards. Used ball valves out to pex runs to a shower fitting. stubbed out from there. Got 8 outlets and I can shut any one off if I need to do anything to it.
Hey Ray, your right "wire is expensive" Why not add three or four 50A recepticals off same run? Only using one at a time? Unplugging and plugging sucks. Good luck bro.
I would have to agree will not cost much to add the receptacles off the same circuit then you can leave the equipment plugged in and just turn it on when ready to use.
The problem is tying #6 wire together in the boxes. It gets to be a real PITA to either wire nut pigtails in boxes or double up wires on a 6-50R, if they can even accept two wires. I just ran as many breakers as I needed and multiple runs. My shop is small, or on a larger shop with all the power hungry devices on one wall, it is still a short run. It was a cleaner install and the proper way to do it, having a sub panel on the wall with my welders and compressor on the exterior of the same wall. Actually, my tig welder is wired direct to the panel with #4 since it draws right at 100 amps for full output.
Hey Ray I would recommend putting extra blocks of wood or something behind your 50 Amp 240 outlets it did when we built our garage. I'm glad we did because some of those plugs fit tight and I would have pushed the outlet back into the wall because of the way the box mounts to the stud.
Hi Ray I hope you and your family are safe from all the fires in California. I don't know where you Randy and Stan live in relation to the fires. I pray you and your families are safe. More later. Bill from Seattle.
Hello Bill, Thanks you very much! We are fine here in the Central Valley but do have a lot of smoke and ash particles in the air, the air has been pretty bad since the fires started. Thanks again and take care my friend!
Very nice sir!! I have to ask you though on why you ran all that copper thats crazy? Those manifolds are 1980's now... the most easy way to do this is whip hose out of compressor straight into a refridgerated air dryer 110 volt with a hose out into a foot of copper with a regulator and 1 more small filter into your reel. Then you have the clean dry air and can paint cars for Barret Jackson it's so dry. Loads of people go the manifold way $$$$$$$ then a beads dryer system$$$$$ instead of the 2021 way it makes no sense from a point of view of money spent and the difference in quality of cleaner dryer air and way way less labor involved on a install
Thanks Adam, I ran the copper manifold because I had it on hand so I used what I had. No, it's not the most efficient way to cool the compressed air but it does work very well for me. I also have a professional grade Sharp air dryer that I can easily plumb in for painting. to date I have never had any moisture go past the regulator.
Nice video and setup. You're going in the right direction, just my two cents...Had the insulation/finishing to the wall NOW. Before adding pipes, hoses, wires and the such. You won't regret it. Later it's a pain in the a__. Thumbs up ;-)
Hello Richard, just a piece of advice: when branching an airline, always place the exit on the top of the line, and aim it downward like an umbrella handle, to prevent water from flowing down.
Hello Willem, Thanks for the air line info, so far I have not had any moisture in the system and only get a small amount when draining the tank. I will keep in mind your design for any future drains. Thanks for tuning in! Best Regards, Ray
Did you thread in the copper onto the filter and then solder? Or do they make some sort of fitting that will spin around in order to thread it in the filter? Not sure if I’m explaining it right. Once it’s soldered how are you tightening the threads
Hello B E, Everything is soldered and copper Unions are use to attach the Raipid Air Regulator. Here is a link to one similar to what I used, www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-Copper-Pressure-Cup-x-Cup-Union-Fitting-C633WHD34/204620217
I have a single car garage I do some painting and Sanders,grinders, impact usage. I have an 80 gallon tank. I only want to use some plumbing to add water traps along with regular air water desiccant. The rest of the hose is 3/8. What size would be recommended for a small shop like mine?
b e Most important is to cool the compressed air with 50’ of 1” or 3/4” copper or black pipe run with drains at the down drops before the first air hose connection. This will remove most of the moisture. I did this then connected to the RapidAir 3/4” MaxLine system in a continuous loop to equalize pressure to each connection. I recommend this same system for you and can be found on Amazon. If you don’t want to buy the RapidAir system go with all black pipe with drains at all drops.
Hey Ray, when nobody's looking, wire in how many plug in's you need for your welders. If you only use one at a time, no problem. Beats unplugging and plugging in all the time. We both know you'll never get away with it. .;)
The problem is tying #6 wire together in the boxes. It gets to be a real PITA to either wire nut pigtails in boxes or double up wires on a 6-50R, if they can even accept two wires. I just ran as many breakers as I needed and multiple runs. My shop is small, or on a larger shop with all the power hungry devices on one wall, it is still a short run. It was a cleaner install and the proper way to do it, having a sub panel on the wall with my welders and compressor on the exterior of the same wall.
Do you happen to have a link for your rapid air water separator? I was trying to Google it and did not find it. How are you liking it? I am looking for something to do the same. I have an automatic drain on my compressor but I still have a little bit a water in my line and was looking for a good water separator.
Danny Barber Hi Danny, Here is a link to the RapidAir Regulator I have, www.summitracing.com/parts/raa-k93217?rrec=true If you are getting moisture in your lines you need to cool the air from the compressor before it goes to you air system by creating up and down lines with drains at the low points like I did in the video, this will solve most of your moisture issues.
My compressor has 3/4” hole coming out of it so I assumeI should only use 3/4” versus 1”? Where did you get the 1” leader hose? I’m struggling to find 3/4” at 6’ length...
bugsysiegals 3/4” is fine. I had my 1” hose made up here local in Fresno, Ca cost was a little over $50 as a side note, one of the fittings needs to be a swivel fitting so the hose can be installed on two fixed objects. I would check on Amazon if you can’t get one made up local.
@@bugsysiegals It should be a standard 3/4" pipe taper. I used a brass pipe thread fitting just so wold not get any rust. If there was a black pipe in there, it should be NPT (national pipe taper)
@@RaysGarageI see your drain loop uses a Female Copper fitting and then Brass to the ball valve. The Male are cheaper than Female fittings at my local Mernards and avoids having to buy extra fittings ... are you saying it would rust if I used Male directly into the ball valve?
bugsysiegals I was worried about rust so I used brass, you should be fine using steel and should not be a problem. My system does not get any moisture so rust is not an issue.
Hello Nick, I used all Type "L", (thicker and a little more expensive than the thinner Type "M") copper pipe and off the shelf NIBCO copper fittings from HomeDepot, I do not know for sure what type the fittings are but have not had any leaks and/or issues to date, I keep the system charged @ 125PSI 24/7 and pressure tested @ my air compressors max 175PSI for several days. I do not think you will have any issues using off the shelf copper fittings as long as you prep and solder correctly. Best Regards, Ray
Hey Nick, I used all the ones i made up and do not have any spares, sorry bud! I would make you up some but I'm very busy with the pool project I got going right now, you should be able to make them from some 1/4" thick aluminum bar stock from your local hardware store, just cut them to length, drill and tap them 10-32.
I did the same thing with 3/4 inch copper,,,and I used a roll of 1/2 inch copper coil tubing from my pump to my tank and it dropped my air temperature from 240 degrees at compressor to 62 degrees at tank,,,looks like a alcohol still,,,lol,,,but works great,,,,and my moisture is minimum now,,,, but like me your very particular and anal retentive neat,,,,I catch myself just staring at my system,,,,I even polished the copper pipe,,,looks like jewelry now,,,,lol...
Hello George, Sounds like you have a very nice system that works fantastic! So far even on damp days I get no moisture in my lines at all! I wanted to do my entire system with 3/4" copper but it was not cost effective for me. The Rapid air system is still working great for me to date! Thanks for tuning in and sharing! Cheers, Ray
Hey there man..Very informative Video..I am about to buy this compressor and your video is alot of help.Can u tell me how is it running up to this point and is it living up to your expectations.
Hello Dwayne, So far so good! i am very happy I went with this set up and it is working flawlessly and no moisture in the system at all! Feel free to hit me up with any questions and good luck installing your system!
Not trying to be a wise guy but you should always take the air off the top of the airline.the first connection is off the bottom. The air lines worst enemy is water it will condense in the line.trust me.drain water often.
Hello James, Yes you are 100% correct! I am hoping the one loop will catch most of the water before the regulator, if not I guess I'll have to reconfigure again! Thanks!
I do not understand.. why you are running a loop in your air line, air isn't directional..? why not run one mail line and use it like a manifold? by taking all your drops from it? It must be me but it seems to to be way overkill.. your doing awesome work though. thanks for the update!
Hello Dennis, Running a loop will equalize the pressure and will give you the same constant flow at all outlets plus creates additional air storage in the system.
If running 10/2 wire I'm pretty sure you're supposed to use a 30 or 40amp breaker not 50. A 50A requires 8 gauge or even #6. Good luck with your fire lol.
Jeff Chartier Hello Jeff, I’ll have to watch the video and may have miss spoke but I do have #6 THHN on the the 50 amp breakers and #10 THHN Wire on the 30’s. I am sure the breakers will trip well before a over load, plus it’s all been inspected by the City. The last thing I need is a electrical fire after spending $65K for my dream shop! Thanks for tuning in! Best Regards, Ray
Hello Daniel, I wanted to catch all the moisture I could before going thru the regulator, so the more up and down loops you place the more moisture you will collect. My system is working very well and never get any moisture past the regulator. Thanks for tuning in! Best Regards, Ray
Very nice sir!! I have to ask you though on why you ran all that copper thats crazy? Those manifolds are 1980's now... the most easy way to do this is whip hose out of compressor straight into a refridgerated air dryer 110 volt with a hose out into a foot of copper with a regulator and 1 more small filter into your reel. Then you have the clean dry air and can paint cars for Barret Jackson it's so dry. Loads of people go the manifold way $$$$$$$ then a beads dryer system$$$$$ instead of the 2021 way it makes no sense from a point of view of money spent and the difference in quality of cleaner dryer air and way way less labor involved on a install
Thank you, I built the 1" copper manifold because I had the pipe on hand. I completely understand dryer systems and since I do not paint cars in my shop and if I do I have a Sharp drying system I can easily plumb in if needed. Thank you for all the great info and for tuning in!
