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Air-Sealing Exposed Rafter Tails 

Fine Homebuilding
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We’re back in Prairie Village, Kansas, at the FHB House 2022 working on exterior air- and water-management details. In previous episodes we’ve talked about our cantilevered sill detail, which sticks out to support the ZIP System R-Sheathing and to close off the bottom side of the polyisocyanurate rigid exterior insulation. Now, working our way up the wall, we have exterior exposed rafter tails that are a bit time consuming and tricky to air-seal.
To accomplish our air barrier in this area we have to block and put ZIP R-Sheathing in between each rafter. We ripped all the ZIP to the width of the bay for vertical blocking in order to get a better nailing surface. We’re relying on a taped joint between the existing wall sheathing and our roof sheathing, and then we will use ZIP System Liquid Flash between the blocking and the rafter tail. We like this detail because with the trim elements around it, using tape would cover too much surface area. So we’re able to cut the nozzle to exactly the width we want it. It’ll be a little slow, but it’s going to get the job done, and it’s going to accomplish really one of the most important details on the house, which is controlling the air.
These exposed rafter tails will have a tongue-and-groove ceiling, and 1×6 car siding that goes all the way down to the back of the subfascia where there’s an air gap that allows for ventilation over the top. Those exposed tails really serve as the architectural feature they’re intended to be while being fully air-sealed.
www.finehomebuilding.com/2022...

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14 дек 2022

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Комментарии : 24   
@stevecrawford6958
@stevecrawford6958 Год назад
great video. would love to see a video on how Joe and Travis detail the exterior penetrations (vent hoods, electrical, hvac etc).
@macgyver03ga
@macgyver03ga Год назад
On my personal house I just built, I used polyiso board for mine. Zip tape sticks to it wonderfully. It was super fast. My framers couldn’t quite understand why I wanted to seal off the rafter tails so I decided to do this detail myself. I precut all the blocks on the ground, slightly oversized, then just trimmed them to fit with an olfa razor knife. I could trim them while I was up on the ladder. Then I came back and sealed the perimeter with canned spray foam using a long nozzle gun. We came back and spray foamed the roof so the polyiso was really just a backstop for the spray foam.
@justinstevenson2061
@justinstevenson2061 Год назад
My thoughts exactly. Never worked with this zip sheathing. Interested to look further into it. But plywood and polyiso is where I’m at, and spray foam the gaps, I’m not sure how much I trust tape to be a long term flash, seen it fail on tyvek, blueskin etc etc. even the high end butyl tapes.
@macgyver03ga
@macgyver03ga Год назад
@@justinstevenson2061 actually zip tape Is a fantastic product. I have used the other tapes and there’s no comparison. Huber got it right with the zip tape 👍
@Natedoc808
@Natedoc808 Год назад
IT's wild how in the past we simply blocked the eves with 2x6 ripped down with a bevel cut to match the pitch and no air sealing because the attics were vented anyway, but now I brought this up doing a remodel where the attic was part of the conditioned envelope and the whole thing was going to get open cell foamed and the older guys on site looked at me like I had grown another head because I broke out the sausage rolls of liquid flash with duck bill nozzles and started sealing the eve blocks to the plate and rafters. I explained it to them and then were on board. when we got to an area of new construction a similar thing happened when I sealed the overlapping sheathing to the block after adhering bituthane membrane over the block foundation as well as liquid flashing the mudsill along with bug barrier. one older dude said, "You just love the caulk don't ya!!" we all had a good laugh.
@KennyFlagg
@KennyFlagg Год назад
Well done. Any air sealing details that can be done from the outside for a vented attic assembly? I‘ll have to get dirty in the attic and address the top plates anyway, but also have a reroof planned and wanted to tackle any soffit work, etc at the same time
@Natedoc808
@Natedoc808 Год назад
@@KennyFlagg if you are opening the soffits anyway, you can seal it up completely from the outside. With the siding off and soffits out you can tape and liquid flash every seam. If you are going to replace the sheathing then you have the golden opportunity of laying down a bead of sealant/glue on the studs and where it overlaps the foundation like you were doing a subfloor (you can also do just where the seams and top/bottom edges of each sheet to save on glue but I usually do them all). Are you saying you want to keep a vented attic or you want to seal one up and make it non-vented?
@KennyFlagg
@KennyFlagg Год назад
@@Natedoc808 thanks for the reassurance. We’ll keep it vented in the attic since it’ll never be living or storage space and we’re climate zone 6a. Would like to go to a ridge vent system instead of the ugly little boxes that don’t seem to do enough. Stucco is hard to knock so I’m only doing sheathing on the most affected/rotten areas. Did liquid flash all the rim joist and mud sill connections I could see. Might end up doing the whole damn perimeter. The crawl will go from vented to conditioned and am really excited to see a good blower door number after all this toiling haha.
@KennyFlagg
@KennyFlagg Год назад
@@Natedoc808 Unfortunately we're all stucco with no drainage gap. The original house has two layers of tar paper w/ wire mesh, while the addition has some unidentifiable sheet sheathing and tyvek. It's a guess and check inspection to see what's holding up and what has been taking on water without drying. Will definitely hold your tips in my back pocket. Might re-sheath + self-adhere membrane 3ft from grade and up, we'll see.
@Natedoc808
@Natedoc808 Год назад
@@KennyFlagg Gotcha. If you have the interior gutted, or even down to drywall sans fixtures, using the AeroBarrier system would make a lot of sense for you as you could air seal from the inside, especially since you're leaving the attic vented you could completely seal off the living envelope from the unconditioned space above. That will eliminate the heat drive from warm interior to colder attic space in the winter and eliminate moisture drive to the exterior where you could get condensation on the interior side of the exterior wall where it would be very difficult to dry. For attic venting for when it gets hot n humid, I prefer active ventilation to passive eyebrow vents, using the solar powered fan units makes all the difference in my area compare to passive ridge, eyebrows or even whisper cool (passive rotary) and it gets 105-110 in summer in my neck of the woods.
@tc9148
@tc9148 Год назад
Love it, great air sealing detail.
@MustardMade
@MustardMade Год назад
Great detail and explanation!
@MrBrianDuga
@MrBrianDuga Год назад
Nice detail that avoids having to add rafter tails after everything is sheathed and insulated ('Monopoly House'). I really would love to know how big of a deal it is from a thermal bridging perspective. Splitting hairs? Pendulum swinging back to 'Pretty Good House' keeps framers happy and not chewing up too many hours screwing around with the analysis paralysis of passive house building principals.
@johnwilson327
@johnwilson327 9 месяцев назад
What about attic ventilation requirements?
@joequixotic3039
@joequixotic3039 Год назад
Why not jig all of this to make details identical and speed up the process? My roof is going to use jigs for as many steps as I can starting with spacing the I-joists. All of my blocking will be identical and fit perfectly. My gaps will all be consistent and tight. I won't be measuring and squaring at every step because my jigs will do that for me. The time I save I'll spend taping and caulking joints.
@Natedoc808
@Natedoc808 Год назад
How’s that end up working out?
@raheemkhanasa1770
@raheemkhanasa1770 Год назад
What happened to the hurricane ties for those long rafter tails my engineer will never allow that to be built without those being added.
@nbco55
@nbco55 Год назад
They may be using the TimberLOK 6" rafter screws and you'd be covered.
@timothydillon6421
@timothydillon6421 Год назад
Just zip the soffit and facia blow it full.
@k.sullivan6303
@k.sullivan6303 26 дней назад
Great video if you are looking for part of the story.
@duggydo
@duggydo Год назад
That works, but there are easier ways with better air seal.
@MustardMade
@MustardMade Год назад
Like what
@duggydo
@duggydo Год назад
@@MustardMadelook at what they are doing at 4:10 in the video. They could have cut the tails, boxed it in side to roof, then added rafter tails with plenty of support. Matt Risinger did something similar a couple years ago.
@av1204
@av1204 Год назад
@@MustardMade like closed cell spray foam.
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