Air Suspension Manual Override - Emergency Lift Kit. Land Rover LR3 Air Fix! 

Where do you order all the part from?

Please ist supplier. Needing info

Ok but if your hooking up air lines to the car which is already on its bump stops the car cannot physically go any lower. You sound like a guy who can’t change his own oil lol

@@Lying992 Are you unable to grasp what I wrote? 10 people understood at least. I wrote in general working with the air lines.

Or Easy Lift suspensions module as well :-)

Polite reply by @Chad Street that this is not a good idea.

Where did you get that parts?

excellent! and happy new year!

more than just similar. BMW built many of the components on the LR3 of this generation. You have a keen eye.

Thanks Mike. Looking forward to it.

You're welcome 😊

Kind of nice to do 4 because if an airbag has a leak, it is easy to isolate it and find fix the problem

Do you have to T in to the valve blocks or is it possible to just T the two fronts together and have the one Schrader valve? Same for the rear, rather than re joining the cut tubes can you just join both struts together and inflate together?

@@olivia-raelemon805 Have you got the answer to this yet? That is what i am going to do once i get the tubing here from amazon. I will let you know if that works. I feel like doing both lines and to the block is pretty much a waste of time and a T fitting.

Danger Will Robinson...the car would risk leaning outwards when cornering if left and right are connected together? i wouldn't connect them.

@@olivia-raelemon805 Danger Will Robinson...the car would risk leaning outwards when cornering if left and right are connected together? i wouldn't connect them.

It's a shame LR didn't offer or include a way to use the compressor to inflat the tires

New Air bags go for 200$ each. Thats not very expensive. Dont have to change the whole strut which is about 1000$ for the fronts

Yes you can keep driving it, if that is the only error/issue being experienced. The warning lights might yell at you, but you are still the boss. Its not going to cause engine damage for example, if the only issue is it wants to lower itself down, and it cant. Be aware that if you are in extended mode you are a bit taller, so you might be a slight bit more tippy in the curves and corners, so just go a bit slower on turns.

Hi DJ, I actually dont recall the exact figures, but about 70 psi in the rear and I think it was close to 120 psi in the front. But take those figures for what it is worth. It was a lower PSI than I expected as the front and rear PSI I have seen recorded elsewhere list 145 PSI and 116 psi. In each case though, it will relate to the weight of the vehicle. The front always runs at a higher PSI since it has the heavy engine up front. The rear is always less unless you are hauling a heavy load, since the back is usually mostly empty.

Thanks. I would recommend a compressor or pump that can do 150 PSI. (60 psi is not enough) While the back sits high even with 70 psi, The front is much heavier and runs at a much higher pressure. 100 psi will only barely get the front off the ground.

@@FarReachFR could you please provide a link to the tubing and valves sets?

@@FarReachFR Do you have your parts list and where you purchased everything. Thanx

I just did mine today and hold the air all day rides nice, just the warning lights Do it!

I picked up the pieces from amazon. I have put the links in the description.

Not even close.

You could and it would likely work reasonably fine. That said technically depending on loading the left and right could be under different weights. For example if you have a driver and not a passenger, and thus require slightly different pressures to level the vehicle. This is why LR measures and modulates each corner.

I was thinking this too

maybe by removing the dedicated fuse...

Like @LR4_morocco says, you can remove the fuse located under the hood. @Far Reach Engineering has a video that shows you how to access both fuse boxes.

He doesn't say what you could get the Schrader valves or nothing

DJ - as an update, I sold the White LR3 not very long after this update. He was an interested buyer and I used the opportunity to update to an LR4. I had it about a month with this mod on it, and it held air well and worked for me. But I cant say longer than that, simply because it is no longer in my stable.

Sorry not to have more detail on it. I actually wish I had more time to play with it myself. I didn't actually expect it to be sold so quickly after the mod. I had plans to run a bunch of different pressures and height configurations, but you know how it goes.

When you did this did this also fill your reservoir tank and what was your reason for doing this for me my lr3 has some kind of wiring in value block or something everything was fine until I replace everything with new part now I'm on bump stops

I did not fill my reservoir tank. I did it because there was an electrical fault keeping the compressor from turning on. I recall it being an overheat sensor response, even when the thing was stone cold. In any case, forcing the air into it I bypassed the whole lot of it.

Thanks for your response, I bought the kit you used to air up I had issues with the quick connect Schrader leaking air I am sure you probably seen LR TIME viedos he remove the plug on resivor and installed a quick air connector I'm going to try this to see if it makes a difference and air up my lr3 I have a 60 gallon air tank I like the viair Schrader valve that seals better I order one on zoro they sent me the wrong one

@@jamesray3920 not sure if this is related, but be aware that schrader valves are made to be unscrewed on the inside. You likely know that already, but just mentioning it as when I received mine the inner cores were loose and wouldnt hold air. But once I screwed the interior of the valve back down like I feel they should have been from the factory, well then all was fine. Good luck in your setup!

Thanks. Yes, I know they need to be screwed in, but the quick connection was leaking on viair the ones you showed screwed on the airline I installed a new arnott air compressor but keeps cutting off then light comes on it could be the reservoir valve body I bought off Amazon nor sure I just ordered a oem one to see what happens I just want the lr3 to air up it's driving me nuts

I have put the link in the description

the tap in locations might be slightly different, but the concept will work the same.

First of all, nylon is "plastic" Second, ALL of the factory air lines are "plastic" nylon. Even the valve blocks are plastic not any kind of metal. Third, why on earth would a European car that is ENTIRELY METRIC use 1/4" tubing? You are talking about the difference of 0.250 inch and 0.236 (14 thou) or [0.356mm)

@@wesbuckley5535 100% Nylon, not cheat crap like in this video, proper pneumatic pipe line, not dinky toy shite. I'm in the US so there's that, and finding 6mm valves is a joke, you try. I had this exact kit blow out on me, it's a warning what's your problem with that? "First of all" go check yourself.

Ah, American. Please ignore my previous transmission; I wouldn't want you to have to travel to Canada just to point your pistol at me. (Watch how that "triggers" some angry counter-reply).

@@wesbuckley5535 Have the day you deserve bud.

Are you correct man! I make all on my D3 and tested this common tube and compactors really not works the pressure is too high now i use only nylon like oem and conectors pro! This stupid man that said to you he doesn't know how to fix skate, the video is great the idea is great also 👍🏼👍🏼

We’ve done this to ours in the UK it is legal 👍🏼

Can some link to the parts please in the UK??

Thanks for watching. Reason I didnt swap those components is that they were not the fault. Air blocks and compressor all checked out fine. Mechanically the suspension components were in good shape. It was an electrical/computer issue. This mechanical override, let me use the truck when gremlins acted up.

@@FarReachFR ok hope you can fix your LR3 the right way and enjoy it the way it's supposed to be enjoyed they are awesome trucks even with it's sometimes pain in the butt gremlins. Cheers 🍻

Hi Garry. You are right, it was more work, but the reason I did it close to the struts and not in line with the existing pump and reservoir was that rover computer issues or wiring issues can lead to a failure there. (for example transfer blocks shutting down, sensor wires being snagged and ecus glitching all are still a failure option if injecting at that point). But at the strut there is no way it can electrically be blocked, it becomes 100% mechanical injection point. Thus an emergency bypass.

@@FarReachFR So putting a T in right after the air pump would not work? I'm guessing you may be talking about in case of valve block failure? Height sensor failure? Those are easy enough fixes and you can keep spares on board. Maybe I'm missing something?

@@garrykennedy5484 This project bypassed a suspected corrupted ECU/BCU+. In more detail: You could certainly add a T right after the air pump and it would work for many situations, but not all. In this particular instance the LR3 when scanned was throwing data and failure codes that appeared that one of the LR3's onboard computers failed (The valve blocks and height sensors you asked about were registering fine). Common electrical and relay bypass measures (that usually work) still resulted in failure modes. You could carry extra body control modules on board, but the particular computer in question was quite expensive and fraught with secondary problems. And that only solves one element of future possible failure, as multiple points of failure still exist within the LR designed electrical system. Pressure pump-> thermal sensors-> height sensors-> multiple valve blocks->ECUs-> not to mention the wiring harness itself/fuses/connectors/corrosion/shorting. Even a minor door ajar is a shutdown mechanism for the air suspension. As such, I was willing to take some extra work in exchange to make an absolute-full-bypass-direct-injection-system. I wanted ZERO electrical fail points in my Emergency Lift Kit. Would it be much easier to T in after the pump. Yes. and that would solve for pump failure and thermal sensor override failure. But I hate ALL electrical failures so I by passed ALL electrical fail points. Including the computers :)

@@FarReachFR I didn't consider the BCU failing. That would present a problem that only your solution would work for. I wonder if there's a manually activated valve system out there that could be put in place? Like maybe from an older air suspension system.

@@garrykennedy5484 There are actually a lot of air ride suspension and what I would call "show off" bagged kits available as well. Those could make a reasonable swap and would result in brand new components.