Howdy Dan! Nicely done. Really like this effect on a black tank car. The tapping off for the patch work is so brilliant in its simplicity lol. I don't think I would have ever thought of that. I didn't notice when this video was posted (7 years ago)... and I saw the Cool Whip for $.99 in the Meijer ad and I thought what a great deal 🤣
Good video, Danny Boy! You've helped more modelers than you'll truly know. Hell, you've helped me and I'm an old fart that's been in the hobby a long time. Due to the size, I'd like to see you do some N Scale as well, to see if your techniques work on it. If you need equipment to experiment with, I've got it. Thanks, Bill
Very informative video! Honestly probably the most helpful when it comes to fading. I hope to see more how to videos in the future, preferably how you weather your trucks and wheel sets.
For trucks, wheels, freight car bodies and locos to add rust I use REAL rust. I take a roll of fine steel wool and put it into a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it on a window sill so the sun can shine on it. After a month or two, I pour the liquid out into a stainless photo tray from my darkroom (10X14). After it is completely dry I use a single edged razor blade scraper and scrape the rust out of the tray. It usually comes out as a fine powder. I then store it in a snuff container. Depending on how long you leave the steel wool in the vinegar my batches come out with different colors of rust, i.e., some are orange and others are a deeper colored red. When I get ready to use it I put several scoops of my rust into a plastic communion cup (neat little cups for mixing paints) and add some alcohol, Elemer's white glue and a dab of water soluble glycerin. Then I just brush it on. If I want an area where the rust has eaten through the metal (plastic) I use my X-acto knife and make some gouges in the sides of a car and fill it up with my rust. It looks very realistic 'cause it is REAL rust! Happy Railroading! W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee (Witherington Place Railroad)
Ya know, I've found that using some eye shadow make-up I got from the Dollar Tree works better than using weathering pastel chalks. Since it is make-up it sticks a lot better than chalk. And it is only $1.00. I get the darker earth tones that are from light to dark earth tone. Really works well and is sooooo much cheaper.
Something I do when airbrushing a car is to remove the metal wheels and pop in some plastic wheels. That way I don't get paint all over the treads of the metal wheels, and the axle ends keep paint out of the trucks.
Great Video! really learned something. Could you do a video or explain how you did the graffiti on that tank car? Looks just like somebody used a spray can, great job.
Hi There! Just wanted to ask you a couple of questions. First, have you ever tried the use an airbrush medium and distilled water as opposed to the 50% isopropyl alcohol that you use to mix with the paint? Secondly, have you ever used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean your airbrush? Great videos as always, very informative and well done Thank you!
Very helpful and a great looking result. What tape do you use for masking the reporting marks etc.? Apologies if you've answered that question on another video.
Dan you said you use 40psi I have heard other people using 20-25psi what are your reasons ? I am just starting out with an air brush. Great videos keep it up. :~)
I ended up using white instead and added dry brushing effects of grey. It was an ADM tank car. Thanks for the demonstration, I will certainly use it in the future.
Great vid. I have a few questions. I have been weathering using an airbrush for over 20yrs now, using the Floquil and Polly S. I have always used thinner or water, respectively to thin out my paints and sprayed with about 15 p.s.i. Acrylic is water based paint. What is the advantage of using alcohol? Wouldn’t straight water thin it out just as well.
Looks great Dan! Quick question on the reflective striping do you fade over those as well or just apply new or old looking striping afterwards? I know every now and then you well put new next to the old chipped ones which looks awesome!!
Hi there, thanks for the videos. I've got a problem, my tank cars are made from glossy plastic and the paint coagulates, doesn't stay spread. Have you ever met this kind of problem? Thanks.
What you need to do is spray a dullcoat on your models before spraying fade to fix the issue. The dullcoat provides tooth for the paint to stick. Also, you may want to go with less thinner in your dilution.
Hi Dan, got a question more. My problem is still there: even after applying dull coat, the wash liquid still coagulates. I used water to dilute marabu acrylic paint. What do you think could go wrong? Thanks in advance.
Honestly I think airbrush fading a locomotive is better with a light gray or white airbush ready paint. This method Daniel used is great for freight cars.
