I understand why a spray booth isn’t being used (ease of recording)but I can’t help but think “oh that poor cutting mat.” I put down a piece of white poster board to protect the surface and it helps me see the colors better. Loved the video!
I liked this week’s video. I have been doing large pieces of building terrain from SW Shatterpoint…in a work flow environment…using my Ultra 24. In the past I used rattle cans and brush to paint terrain. Would like to see some future examples of terrain painting…urban to sci-fi to fantasy. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks buddy - glad to hear that it's going well for you! We have been discussing a terrain video - just haven't found the right project yet... we'll do it though! W
It would be nice if your customer service folk were as open and responsive as the video channel. I am a fan of the tools and have just bought my second brush(hopefully) but have yet to hear back from Customer service. Pretty disappointing!
Hi Peter. My apologies for that. The staff are certainly doing their best BUT we know we’re not on top of things right now. Combination of not quite enough resource, great response from you all, and winter sickness bugs! However, we are in the process of putting extra resources to our Customer Service Dept and we believe that you’ll see a real difference within one month. In the meantime, please email me directly with your question: wjs@harder-airbrush.de Thanks, Warrick
Man I must be a weirdo but I don't think I'd spray anything without at least a N95 mask for non-toxics. Excellent airbrushes. My H&S are super precise and flawless.
Hey ArkansasBassMan - for sure. Just difficult to narrate and paint whilst wearing a mask, so we are sure to keep our studio very well ventilated - it's actually quite a large space, and this also helps. But for sure the most important thing is to always use a spray-out pot when changing colour and/ or cleaning. Very happy you're enjoying your H&S airbrushes! W
I'm not really a figure kinda guy, but i do build and paint Gundam Model Kits... literally throw these videos on during my sessions and listen to it like it's a podcast lol. Keep em coming! Also My Ultra 2024 gets here in a few days!
Another great video from H&S 👍✌️😊💜 Bigger projects can be daunting - "oh %✓¥$¢!! I've bitten off my than I can chew". But working on one or two areas - even just glueing/solvent welding two bits together - at a time and building on such, even if only 15 minutes a day, gains traction and momentum to a project. This young lad is great👍✌️😊works in a very similar way to me (and yes I keep recipes and notes too - I learnt the hard way after leaving models part finished) for large scale model railway models, RC cars, RC boats etc. I agree re yellows (diesel locos use warning yellow on the cabs, the only way to paint it is airbrush imho). Also as good as some rattle can primers are, you can't beat an Evolution to put down, in my case, Ultimate Primer (black, grey or white), the detail remains, as a micron thin coating is put down, that if airbrushed with subsequent coats won't clog the detail. I enjoyed the video from start to finish as everyday is still a school day. I use my older Evolution - more and more - for this kind of work too. I use a 0.4 set up, which does everything really well. I've got a back stop "handle" for mine, not that I use it, plus with a "Dred" type mod/hack to the trigger movement, a back stop adjuster won't work. For repetitive detail work - Eg "rusty", "bolt heads", in 7mm (1/43) scale - I sometimes use one of my Infinitys (Chameleon for awkward work - less fatiguing) with the back stop set, that gives a nice uniform, consistent, finish for dozens of tiny "rusty", "bolt heads".
Awesome buddy - and yes, totally agree on the point of not clogging the detail in the mouldings - the airbrush is supreme for this. Of course, this is WHY we buy a certain model - the moulding! So of course, using a paint application method which doesn't lose any resolution from that seems the best way forward. W
Guten Tag, ich habe eine Evolution Silverline und habe das Problem, dass die Pistole nach einer gewissen Zeit am Trigger Blasenbildung hat. Ich gehe davon aus, dass irgendwo irgendwas verstopft ist, aber ich sehe nichts. Gibt es dazu irgendwelche Erfahrungen, wo ich reinigen sollte? Oder habt ihr andere Empfehlungen?
How do you actually mix the paint inside the cup? I replaced my no-name with Ultra and the cup does not allow for going way to the bottom to get in there with the paintbrush to actually mix the paint properly with thinner. I got to say, quite a nice vid - love the fact that that you factor in actual game plan, people really underestimate that when batch-painting a lot of minis, worse if you go back to an army and you don't remember the paint you used x)
I dunno man, imo a bretonian army has to be colourfull. With all the coat of arms the crests the heraldics. Its just not the same when they all look the same
Es wäre schön wenn ihr jetzt auch mal andere Arbeiten zeigen würdet, was so technisch machbar mit einer Airbrush ist! Keine Frage super Künstler mit den Warhammer Figuren, aber es gibt ja noch andere Kategorien! Dankeschön, weitermachen!
I'm ever so slightly triggered by the amount of paint wastage using that large brush to load the airbrush. Gotta get those citadel paints transferred into droppers!
Wonder if you will ever have demonstrations using the airbrush scale planes, battle weapons and vehicles or dioramas for these airbrushes. Or these airbrushes made only or miniature figures. Appreciate the uploads and information, btw have the 2024 evolution. It operates much better than my infinity cr plus. Major improvements.
Hey Kevin - thanks for the feedback on the EVOLUTION 2024. Rally glad to hear that! We will indeed start doing more content on those topics in the coming videos, for sure. However, we at H&S tend to think more that airbrushes are best designed for whichever stage you are at in your development as a painter. The features can be much more targeted to the user experience that way. So they're good for all applications! W
I like how the planning is relatively comprehensive right at the start... stops decision fatigue setting in part way through and causing the project to start to grind... W
Could you make a video and explain the relationship between needle size, paint consistency, pressure and distance to the painting object. How to get you make a right combination of these all parameters and understand that it is right?
Certainly. That’s a great idea… we do have one coming up soon which covers the basics of this but not in massive detail. As for pressure, I would say that just sticking with 25psi for everything until you feel that you have full control of the airbrush is definitely the best strategy 😊
@@harderairbrush Thanks, I feel 25psi is too strong for my dilution. If I use 1:1 or 1:2 with Vallejo Game or Model (0.15), my paint almost always dried momentarily it's very frustrated to paint such, so I suppose I need more thinner. I seen recommendation about 9-10 water with 1 part of color ))) So maybe 15-20 psi is what I need. I need more tests to find out right way )))
Hey buddy... water does not perform the same task as airbrush thinner. If you find that you want more flow try this, and PLEASE write back to tell me of your experience - this is something new that I am experimenting with as well.. mix your paint 30 minutes BEFORE you want to use it using ONLY the correct airbrush thinner. Then let it stand for 30 minutes before you begin to use it. Try this when you are preparing to do some high detail work. Make the dilution whatever you need, but only use the thinner. Letting it sit slightly alters the characteristics of the base. I won't tell you what it does, because I don't want to set your expectations - because I am interested in any differences that you notice, if any. Many thanks in advance for your reply!
@@harderairbrush it’s very interesting! Should I mix paint with thinner in airbrush cup and stay it there? (I think - no )))) ) Or mix in external place and add it in airbrush before I begin paint?
@@harderairbrush I mixed well 1 paint and 8 thinner in a little glass cup then waited for 30 min then add to an airbrush without mixing. Hard particles of a paint stayed on a bottom the glass cup. Mix in airbrush was like an ink than paint. It was a Vallejo Game Color. The color was strong but it was very liquid. Did you mean this way?
Mr.hobby leveling thinner is a much better thinner than the tamiya one, can be used on all the same paint but got so much better leveling propertys. So try that and i think you will be realy pleased. This was probely a good beginer video, and i do realy like the stuff you guys put out
If you're using Mr Hobby Levelling Thinner you should at minimum be using a spray booth, but you should really be using a respirator as well if you value your health
This video is great for everyone looking at army painting from start to finish. Really nailed it with showing the preparation and process plus highlighting the advantages of an airbrush. Golden times for the hobby truly
@@harderairbrush I wrote you that email regarding the collar scratching the body on my Ultra. I hope mail attachments and a german text are alright, I found it difficult to describe. Thank you for caring 😊
Ask ItsAGunpla for a video! Both gunpla and miniature painters can learn a lot from each other! I just used my ULTRA 2024 today and it's like being in a healthy relationship for the first time! Superb product!
