These videos hold up really well. I remember watching back in 2013 for airbrushing tips and now that I’m getting back into airbrushing they are still great!
I already know all of this but it's kind of refreshing following your tutorials. You have a very calm way of explaining the basics to the ones that need it the most, novices. I'm sure this'll be of huge help to a lot of newcomers and a nice nod for the rest of us. What I am curious about is if someone knows if there may be some sort of reaction between the paint and the mixing spoon. I'm using disposable plastic ones for the enamel/acrylic paints but I'm king of hesitant on using the same plastic kind coffee spoon on the lacquers. Anyway, thanks Henry! Bestestest regards!
Many years ago I painted a model of a 63 stingray corvette. I used flat black as the primer and gloss black as the finished paint coat. Both of the paints were from a spray can.
I'm a big Gundam fan and want to take it to the next level with airbrush. Now with that said, thank you for taking the time to make these videos! They have been extremely helpful!!!
This is the one I've been waiting for. I was fortunate enough to get tamiya enamels while in japan and now I can't get them. I might look into those Mr gundam lacquers.
I've heard online in posts from 2010 to 2015 that Aqueous Hobby Color paints have been discontinued for US distribution, but Sprue Brothers has readily had them in stock online for the last several years.
You might want to check out the AK Interactive paints, along with Vallejo paints, they're better at being thinned properly. And, from what I have been able to learn from them is that there are videos about their paints and how to thin them for airbrushing... Have a great day...
Vallejo is usually the go-to acrylic for me, only been using them for about a year, but love those dropper bottles. The Model Air line has some of the only acrylic metallics I've agreed with too. Only downside is that distribution in the US seems a little spotty, always have to get them online instead of locally.
yeah i agree with you with lacquer being expensive,a single gaia notes paint in singapore can cost up to around 5-7 dollars,but the finished product is excellent and they're very durable
from Wikipedia The vehicle and binder of oil paints is linseed oil (or another drying oil), whereas acrylic paint has water as the vehicle for an emulsion (suspension) of acrylic polymer, which serves as the binder. Thus, oil paint is said to be "oil-based", whereas acrylic paint is "water-based" (or sometimes "water-borne").
I don't think you mentioned it but you can thin Tamiya acrylics with a hobby thinner to near lacquer results. Mr. Color and Gaiantoes are both acrylic pigments in lacquer solvents. What Tamiya does is they sell the acrylic pigment in less toxic "water" (alcohol) based solution (which is great for it's lack of toxicity), but it's not near as good for as a pigment solvent or medium for airbrushing. Thinning tamiya acrylics with lacquer results in less dry tip and faster drying, more durable coats with the only draw back being the fumes. The only other major difference is the difference in binders, from what I can tell. Which is why you can actually use Tamiya acrylics thinned with lacquer with hairspray, while you cannot do the same with Mr. Color or Gaianotes.
Henry, if you ever want to use water to thin your acrylics, you can buy "Glycerin" from the pharmacy to add to your distilled water. It will break the water tension. You could also use a very small amount of liquid dish detergent. Also, for anyone that wants to know, you can buy a product called "Mr. Retarder" to add to your home improvement store lacquer thinner to give it the properties that Mr. Color thinner has Henry was talking about. Increase the dry time, but gives you a SMOOTH finish, and is much more forgiving to overspraying.
tendaloin I've just finished painting the backpack for the Turn X in that purple paint. Used lacquer and though I believe the paint was a bit on the thick side (which was my error rather than the paints) the drying time was as fast as the paint was going on leaving me with a bit of a rough surface. I wasn't aware that Mr. Color thinner already had a retarder in it to help bypass this problem. My question would be, is it more cost effective buying a home store lacquer thinner and Mr.Retarder or actually buying Mr.Color thinner? I don't use that much lacquer paints that I'd be needing the biggest bottle of the thing. However I plan on going for (maybe) Alclads clear/candy on my future Nightingale/Sazabi builds and being lacquer paints I'll be in need of the best possible solution to this painting problem.
Daniel Z I would say it's more cost effective to buy one bottle of Mr. Retarder, and be able to buy more lacquer thinner at a home improvement store near you. Every bottle of Mr. Thinner will have shipping costs unless you have shop near you that sells that stuff in which case might as well buy Mr. Thinner as it was intended for Mr. Color paints. I use lacquer to flush and clean my AB quickly to change colors, so I use a lot. Having a huge cheap can helps. PS: To add more mystery, Mr. Retarder pretty much just smells like enamel thinner. So I guess somebody should try that lol!
Daniel, don't use "home town lacquer thinner" for Mr. Color. Its too strong for plastic models, Gunpla. Mr. Color (thinner) is optimized for plastic models mainly hobby use. It mades "milder" than general home town thinner. You can test thinner just put piece of runner or junk parts in a bottle of thinner, wait for 2-3 minutes. Generaly, home town "lacquer" thinner will melts plastic or stickky surface. Its not match for Mr. Color. Home town lacquer is usable for cleaning tools, Air Brushes. Also both Mr. Color thinner and General thinners are toxic. By the way, Enamel paints makes plastic "weak". So be careful to use for Gunpla because it has many joints, movable parts will crack more easy. Please forgive me about my bad english. Kasha
EricWalks I would argue that if your model kit "literally" cracked and crumbled from simple mineral spirits, then you were not actually using mineral spirits.
Interesting. I am still learning so have been watching many vids. I am kind of homing in on Tamiya and Mr Gunze for finer spray detail areas, using Tamiya aerosols (and sometimes car shop) for larger areas. Primers I use car shop aerosols like Halfords in the UK though I am using AK Fine white primers. I also now just buy the matching thinner for the paint ie Tamiya for Tamiya and Mr Thinner for Mr Color. The Mr Color range has an H prefix if it water based and I assume C prefix is solvent based. It is a whole lot more complex than I remember it 40 years ago. I still use Humbrol brush paints for fine detailing and figures. One tip I would give - buy a battery operated paint stirrer eg Trumpeter, saves alot of time and you can drain the paint from the stirrer into a dish so minimising waste. I have also tried mixing in the airbrush cup with mixed results but found out I should put the thinner in first - obvious really to stop blocking. The biggest pain is cleaning the airbrush so now I try and plan ahead for production batches
No matter the toxicity of any paint, your lungs have a low resistance to any aerosol particulates which enter them. Testors paints use toluene in their thinners, which what they are calling acrylic is actually an alkyd hybrid, which is not very good in aerosol form.
Thanks so much for this. Please give us an idea of how much paint to mix depending on the size of the kits etc from your experience. I dont see much of that discussed anywhere. I'll have my airbrush in the coming month and this tutorial is helping alot.
Check out Penetrol, an oil based enamel or lacquer additive. Paint extender and leveling additive. It make the power of the lacquer thinner useful again.
Tamiya acrylic paint is label as water soluble... but it really isnt cause tamiya acrylic paint is alcohol base. you have to thin it with either rubbing alcohol or their own brand of thinner. if you want water soluble acrylic paint, you have to go with vallejo or reaper.
Acrylic paints are good. yes it does dry quickly when thinned in water or alcohol. But if you prepare thinner with 8 parts of distilled water and 2 parts for regular glycerine the problem is solved. As distil water is pure water and glycerine doesn't allow the paint to dry soon.
this video should be out as soon as you creat your youtube channel! dont get me wrong, i was just talking about the necessity. excellent video keep it up!
I use Lacquer thinner to thin my testors enamel paints from the Don Yost DVD at a 2:1 mix ratio and I've had great results I also use lacquer thinner to mix Tamiya Acrylic paints to I'm using Mr Color Leveling thinner for that
Game air and model air lines of water based acrylic paints are made just for air brushes. Used primarily for war gaming and miniatures. But are great for gunpla too.
Plamo color makes some nice lacquers, and also Tamiya acylics again, not water soluble, it will clump. It can also not be mixed with other acrylics. Tamiya acrylic is kind of an odd ball, 91% isopropyl alcohol, and some claim ammonia, thin it well. Some people actually use lacquer thinner with Tamiya acrylics, you can not do that with any other acrylic I know of.
Try using Hannarts enamels if your in the uk infuse them n dry within minutes of airbrushing! Never had a problem with enamels drying slow in all my time building!?
Vallejo sales reps at model shows and expos demonstrate the non-toxicity of their paints by placing a drop or two of the product on their tongue and ingesting it... the more ya know :)
From the Mr Color website showing their Mr Color paint is "SOLVENT-BASED ACRYLIC PAINT" Mr Color is not a lacqure its an acrylic mixed with a solvent not water, Tamiya is an acrylic mixed with alcohol, so both are acrylic but the mixed solvent is different.
hey there... i'm new with model kit so i wanna ask if i wanna have a glossy finish(like a newly washed car) should i : 1. silver paint - color paint - decals 2. silver paint - color paint - decals - gloss coating(i just want to make sure the decals doesn't com off ) 3. just gloss coating(after putting decals) 4. flat coating(hiding any mistake)(after putting decals) - gloss coating i'm not sure with any of'em since i'm new , these were suggestion i got from a friend who is a veteran model builder...
Chiron for starters, do not start straight on your main build. I star practice on my SD gundam. after all, it is just not only one step(painting) you need to be familiar with, but a lot of steps (sorting, masking). Plan everything ahead, or learn a real life lesson.
Ive fallen in love with humbrol enamel paints. my local hobby shop has a huge selection, also i really like alclad for primers and top coats. Alclad has some really cool metallic paints too.
I know I'm 8 years late to this and you probably won't respond, but do you have a preferred thinner for them? Just getting into the hobby and trying to work stuff out
Vallejo Mode Airl/Game Air are great acrylics for showing, with a huge range of colors. Also, as far as toxicity, Tamiya acrylic IS TOXIC. It is not nearly as toxic as enamels or lacquer though.
waxmasterJ I know your comment is 3 years old.... but since then they’ve also come out with the Vallejo Mecha line. I like it, little more scratch resistant and decent color range.
Where I am from my choices are pretty much Humbrol, Tamiya, and Vallejo. I like for people to be able to handle my models when they come over so Enamel is pretty much the choice. Maybe I was handling them to rough but the Tamiya always rubbed off on corners during assembly.
There's a thin line between paint that's too thin or just right and that's where the problem is. It could result in either getting the job done or wasting paint(and time).
So I keep hearing that Acrylics fade or peel off easily and all these other negative things about Acrylic paints. So is it safe to say that we should just bump using acrylic paints for painting our model kits because they won't last anyways? I guess what I'm trying to find out is what is the benefit of using Acrylic paints, compared to Enamel or Lacquer paints?
I do nails and use the cheap Walmart paint in my airbrush all the time...just thinned with distilled water. The consistency of chocolate milk is what I do. 👍
I'm still only hand-brushing but will definitely use this series as a guide should I ever move to air brushing. Mr color levelling thinner is great for achieving a smooth finish with acrylics, but I have found that it wont mix with Vallejo acrylics. The paint just clumps up. Anyone know why?
12:43 How on earth, can you get the mix, thinner than the thinner you using??? If you mix the thinner with anything thicker, it can never become thinner than the thinner media you using.
Lol, it's a manner of speaking. Runnier than the original mix but reaching close to the consistency of the thinner by diluting the mix with the thinner. Get it? It's not an exact science. Autism is a disorder
When painting a model do you have to use only one type of paint or can you mix and match? Ex. Enamel paint for blue parts and lacquer paint for red parts, etc etc.
You can totally mix and match the paints, but do make sure that they are fully cured. A good rule of thumb is that lacquer rubs off enamel and enamel rubs off acrylic. So if you start with lacquer on the bottom and work up, then you shouldn’t have any problems. I use a lacquer primer and normally paint with enamels. Sometimes I have to use acrylics due to color needs. Then I use a lacquer clear coat. I do not usually run into problems.
love your video I have Mr color paint an Mr color thinner an I watch your whole video to make the paint the same as the thinner but my question is if I use an eye drop an put 5 drops of thinner in should I put 5 drops of paint in or 4 to make it airbrush smooth
I have sort of a multi-part question. Going to get an airbrush soon, and I live in Florida. My paint that I can get locally is Model Master Acrylic. 1. It says it's thinned for airbrush, is that true? Straight out the bottle it will just work if I fiddle with the PSI a bit? 2. Most days humidity is around 75-90 range, and I would either be spraying from an open garage or in a backyard. If I'm in these places, I shouldn't need a spray booth, right? I know I need to wear a respirator.
why do i feel like lacquer paints scratch and damaged so easily. I handled it extra careful, not touching my nails against it and yet it still scratched and chipped by the time i assembled them.
Thanks for this it was a good watch! Do you pre thin like batches and store them in bottles? I was thinking for say primer or black or white paint which might get used often it would be more efficient
Another great video! One question, can I use mr color leveling thinner (as the one in your video) for all kind of paint? ( acrylic, enamel and lacquer ) thank you
Awesome video! Been waiting for this one. I'm glad to hear someone else using Testors for Gundams. Henry, where so you usually buy your Testors paints? I have a local craft store that carries but their current range of colors is not that big. And I was wondering if you have used Model Masters paints before? Thanks in advance!
I am most familiar with acrylics from painting Warhammer miniatures. They are great for that but I was disappointed with the durability of Tamiya acrylics on my first painted Gundam model. Any movement at all on the joints left deep scratches in the paint. Is there any cure for that?
Help me, I need to replace my old Floquil Railroad Paints with something new. Also, I understood that Floquil solvent is one two parts of xylene and one part of Toulene. Is that right?
Have you switched entirely to airbrushing for painting and top coating? I'm just getting back into Gunpla and saw some of your older videos using Krylon for top coating and the can you used to use isn't available that I can tell anymore. Both cans I picked up were Krylon, one left a pretty cloudy finish and the other came out alright, just very textured. Any thoughts or tips/tricks? Airbrushing will happen one day, but not yet for me.
Hey there, i am going to use airbrush to repair the car scratch, the paint i am gonna to use is polyurethane paint, i am wondering can i use this kind of paint by airbrush or what should i add to make it thinner. thanks~
Great vid!! May I ask for enamel paints, do you also thin it to the same consistency as in the video? I'm just starting to airbrush and have been testing around, but have been hit and miss for me. Thanks.
I have a question. I’m painting a HGUC Zeta Gundam (the GEP version) and I’m trying to strip Tamyia acrylic (hand brushed) from the wings and I don’t know how to strip it from the model without ruining the plastic.
So i have a question. I'd like to use enamel paint and i'll be painting in the same room where i'll be sleeping. I'll buy a proper mask while painting but is it a bad idea to paint in the same room as you're sleeping in? Would opening windows for a better airflow help? New to airbrushing and resistant paint is what i need for my project.
is there any difference between these enamels and lacquers and automotive grade paint? I am trying to paint my bicycle and want to spend as little as possible
a downfall to lacquer paints it's a humid/cold day, i use it at maximum 65% of humidity, more than that it get foggy and at 95% it get flat. what do you think about alclad's chrome ? it's not oilly as enamel paint and it's not tough as lacquer.paint.