I'm one of the "break it down between each color completely" guys. I had a ton of trouble with clogs when I first got started. Cleaning the entire airbrush, every single time eliminated that problem(for the most part). I think my first one also had some primer get dried in the needle chamber, and when I stepped up to a newer brush, I knew I didn't want to let that happen. Sometimes I wont do the needle chuck, and I just clean the pot and the nozzle, but for sure, I pull that needle out every time between colors. it always surprises me how much paint is left over on that needle alone.
I'm just starting out and this tutorial series was great. Very helpful and complete. From paint type, mixing, airbrushing and cleaning, you covered it all! Thanks for this.
Great tutorial Henry. I'm glad you didn't make a complicated cleaning video like some other ones I've seen around over the last couple of years. The back flush method completely changed painting time and color change time for me, especially finally realizing iwata and many other brands will back flush by slightly unscrewing the nozzle. I would like to add that it is completely unnecessary to dismantle your airbrush every time you complete a paint job, or as you mentioned those poor souls who might be doing it at color change. Back flushing with lacquer thinner frequently will leave you with clean parts, and I would argue that taking your AB apart often is only exposing your delicate parts to the possibility of damage. I usually just leave lacquer thinner in the cup when I'm finished, and it's always crystal clear when I come back a few days later. IF I leave it for a week or two, I'll add more thinner to the cup every couple of days to keep it topped. This does not damage the AB in any way. Quality AB anyway with teflon seals.
Great tutorial series, Henry. You covered everything we might need to know in a succinct, simple manner. Next, may I suggest a tutorial series on building resin kits as this kind of goes hand in hand with airbrushing. Being able to build kits only available in resin form is my main incentive for getting an airbrush.
I just want to note, at the end of the video where Henry said that Siphon fed airbrushes don't really get paint into airbrush body, while this is correct, I have an airbrush which I'm currently using right now (Siphon Fed) where the paint is located a bit more on the body, like where Gravity Fed airbrushes mix the air and paint, you do need to clean the inside like what Henry did and showed us. So its just a little note, be sure to clean the inside if the paint mixes on the inside.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner I use for firearms parts and my airbrush. I will typically put the airbrush in there after a day of painting, and only so often. Great tutorial.
Good idea to buy the volume thinner for cleaning and keep the good stuff for the modelling. So obvious really. Good to hear you just backflush and switch colours; I wasnt sure if this was 'allowed' so will be doing that from now on - makes life alot easier :-)
Vegeta, thank you for the tutorial. Could you please make one about building one resing kit? Specially when building one conversion kit using the bandai kit and the resing? How to clean the parts, put them together, paint them.... Keep up the great work! Big fan here!
when cleaning the cup/needle/body I found that using a lint free microfiber cloth works well (just air it out when you are done painting) its reusable, washable, and doesnt leave particles that can clog the brush like paper towels. also thank you for the information on what to do with cleaning thinner. i was always just dumping it into a container of paper towels and disposing of it ill try the dirty thinner method with my klean strip green. P.S. when using a siphon fed AB its best to keep a bottle full of thinner/cleaner and just switch it out then run the brush until it sprays clean. the bottle doesn't need to be emptied every session as long as you have jar caps or siphon neck covers just be sure to check the paint if you wait more than a day between sessions.
Hey Henry, I do airbrushing. I really appreciate the way you handle the entire job so clean. Usually the people doing paint job are messy and we find paint all over. I have really wasted a lot of thinner cleaning my airbrush. After this video, I can say you saved my money as got a beautiful way to clean brush using less thinner. Also I have a question for you, If I use acrylic paint on metal surface instead of automotive paint say on bikes gas tank and then a few lacquer coats. what are the results, is it durable?
You said you used Mr.Hobby's paint brush before and I wanted to know the pros and con between the Iwata Hp-CH vs the Mr.Hobby one. Those are the contender for my first airbrush and it would be nice to hear some opinion not just from Henry but anyone's would be helpful thanks. Or an easier question is pros and con between Iwata and Mr.Hobby which would be more suitable for a first time buyer. P.S I am going to Tokyo this summer and please suggest some place for me to buy these items :D Much appreciated
Fantastic series, thanks for the help. I just want to ask how to back flush the airbrush when the nozzle isn't a complete circle because mine has some triangles cut out on the edges and air keeps escaping through there.Thanks! :D
Hey, great video! I'm thinking about getting an airbrush, but I have one question. Do you have to clean it like this every time, or can you use it, clean it quickly, use it again, and then after a session do all this. For example, If I was painting an aircraft model, would I have to clean it like this after every different colour. Cheers, Archie's Models
When we should unscrew the nozzle to clean it up? Only when there's a clog problem, or everytime we have done big projects and idle for long periods of time? Thanks
so for acrylic paints i use tamiya thinner 20A. but to clean an airbrush i can i use 91% alcohol? to save on using up the expensive thinner? trying to get into airbrushing and don't want to damage the brush by improper cleaning.
Have a quick question from the last tutorial. Do you use primer for lacquer paints I have heard you don't need. Also If you do use primer what paint is it made od and what type do you recommend.
Brigham Oliver You don't NEED or HAVE TO use a primer at all. You can pretty much paint straight on the plastic. It won't damage the plastic like some may think if you use the thinner that you should use, no matter which paint type you use, be that water based, enamels or lacquers. Using primer is your own choice. Primer's good for "inspecting" the kit after sanding, filling, scribing and whatnot. It's also good if you'd like to do a bright paint theme over a dark surface. It's a more of a "pro" thing than a necessity. Same goes for hardware type thinners. Some may use it as a paint thinner and never touch the hobby stuff because it's more expensive, some would buy the hobby stuff exclusively, depends on the person I guess. Example, a pro builder working on a kit for a competition, doing a full monty would be a must. But that would mean you'd have to have a premium class air brush, a premium class compressor, complete with all the other bells and whistles. It'll cost you an arm and a leg too. Building a good set of tools comes naturally over time with this hobby. Hell, I started with Fengda air brush and now I'm using an Iwata too. Another thing, don't take advice for granted and use it as you would a Bible. There are a LOT of ways on getting the same result. Doing your own research would be best.
You can rub the kit and dirt and hope it sticks too, I guess I just prefer to do it correctly. Paint sticks to primer, primer sticks to surfaces. It's how it is designed. Who am I? A professional airbrush artist with over 25 years experience, a professional miniature painter and the 2013 GBWC North American runner up. I agree, you can get advice from all over the place, but always consider your source. Lacquer thinner can make bare plastic brittle without a primer barrier. If you soak a piece of plastic in lacquer thinner it will melt. Acrylics are water based so it won't have that reaction but the paint will always stick on your kit better if you use primer. Always. 100% of the time and teaching people lazy modeling is lame. Teach them right or don't teach.
