Interesting repair Bill. I recently got an as new version of this model. It has traction tyres and has no trouble with points. I've also watched a video of someone taking off the tyres and then reinstalling them because it ran better with them on. Just an observation. Great to see the strip down. Happy Modelling
Hi all, I have just revisited my Airfix 14xx and followed most of the excellent video but not dismantled the motor as this was always a no no from early Triang motor days. However as this was not the first time I had worked on trying to improve 14xx running I noticed a thin piece of cardboard had been placed under neath the back of the motor frame but couldn’t remember why! Being intrigued I slackened off the motor fastening screw a half turn and discovered that the running was improved. I continued to back off the screw in increments until no further improvement was noticed. This allowed a shim or packer of cardboard 1.2mm (0.047”) to be fitted and the screw retightened. For some reason the smooth slow running was greatly improved but not sure why but you may want to give it a go which can be done without any dismantling, just slacken of the motor securing screw and see what happens. Having thought about this I seem to remember that a universal joint when operating through an angle does not produce a constant output, strange as it may seem, hence what is refereed to as a CV ( constant velocity) joint is used in motor cars perhaps?
I made a new brass underframe with can motor and EM gauge axles/wheels. The springing of the rear truck took a long time to adjust so that the drivers behaved correctly; very little room for weighting so it does not pull many vehicles - just a few wagons or an autocoach.
Great video. I just overhauled my 14XX. Other than traction tyres and dirty contacts I had a missing motor spring as well. So I removed a spring from a spare old car window switch which worked perfectly. A pen spring would also work. The locomotive now runs perfectly, thanks for the video!
Evening Bill. How satisfying is it when you get a none runner put it in the engine shed then on your work bench strip it down and fix it 🤩 You’ve a real cool way of repairing broken locomotives and bringing them back to life 😂 Loved every episode I’ve watched 👍🏻 Cheers Stevie
I have three of these, and I love them, especially for running my Autocoaches. So far I’ve been lucky enough not to have to strip them down, so will undoubtedly be using this Vid for reference in the near future. As ever thanks for postin Bill ✨🙏🏻✨
Really useful, I just purchased a used one identical that I had spent the evening trying to work out why I’m continually pushing it ! Traction tyres off first job!
I have one of these and it has always been an intermittent runner. I am grateful to you for showing how you removed the traction tyres as they seem to be the problem with mine having done everything else. David.
An interesting design and engineering. And a brilliant fix for it. Turning a non-running "scenic" model into a usable engine. Thanks for another great video.
I’ve got three of those Airfix 1400 tanks. Fortunately they do run. I didn’t realise how complicated the mechanism was! Must have been designed by a committee!! Nice job on the tank filler as well.
Another great repair video. Thought I was going to catch you out with the upside down con rods, but you spotted the error. Well done all round, liked the Molyputt moulding. Cheers, Jim L
I bought one from a son, discarding the works and wheels as I am EM. Scratch building the frames and getting wheel clearance and making it 'sit right' with that trailing axle really was a very fiddly job.
I picked up a 14XX at a sale last week, too late I spotted the tiny label saying non run! anyway thank you for opening your engine up and explaining some of its complexties! I had never even heard of plunger pick ups before, and i was stunned to find a car prop shaft as part of the mechanism. Anyway, your work has inspired me to have a go now. Certainly the tyres can go !
I think i've got 3 14xx locos, not sure at the moment who the makers of each are. It's not surprising Airfix stopped making model railway locos if they are that complicated a mechanism. I've recently pulled out 5 GWR locos to look at since watching your videos, 3 x Kings, 1 x Hall and a Mainline 0-6-2. They, like the rest I are all old secondhand ebay purchases, coming complete with rusty handrails, missing bits, grime, chipped paint, god only knows what state the insides are like. But here goes. Thanks Bill for the inspiration. Keep up the good work.
Excellent work Bill, I have one that doesn't run very well, so I now know what to do! On the haulage capabilities these engines were usually found on a rural branch line towing or propelling an auto-coach, sometimes one front and one rear. So as you had it towing 2 coaches around your layout that should be fine.
for those who dont know .airfix and dapol locos such as the terrier ...j94 ...pug...14xx and several tender locos were all re done by hornby in one version or another.the parts are identicle so newer hornby locos can be used for spares for old dapol and airfix.i have had 3 airfix and 1 dapol 14xx .they would have been better if fitted with all wheel pick up and no traction tyre.i got a dj models one which is better but has its own issue ...mainly the crappy motor.
I have three of these but one is out of action due to a worn out drive gear so is a spares at the moment. The metal plate attached to the upper brush was the correct way up first time but clipped in the wrong place, it should be in the slot half way down the brush holder so the folded down part at the wide end makes contact with the chassis. That is how they would originally have picked up power the other strip going to the magnet screw is a later addition that I’ve not seen before.
Glad this worked well. I have struggled without traction tyres because of the groove in the wheel and reduced rolling radius; more probs to bobbing and derailing. It’s a shame as I love 14XXs
Hi Bill, Great work. I have a couple of these engines boxed away. They were always poor noisy runners especially over points, so I never got round to doing anything with them. After seeing how well you have got this one to run I think it may be time to dig them out.
Good fix. I have one of these. Mine seems ok with traction tyres. As long as those plunger pickups are free. They are more noisy than my Hornby or Dapol. I run mine with an autocoach. Regards Paul. 🚂
Well, more coincidence and a very instructional video and nice job on the filler cap too, looks very good. Thank you for showing me what I have in store when my version finally arrives! Such a complex design. Apart from a new version at huge cost, there don't seem to be any other options if you want a 14xx. Even the second hand Hornby or Dapol are too expensive for me. Still, it does look very cute. 😊
bill, if you think that's over engineered then I wouldn't recommend you open up a modern model loco. I guess I'm lucky as I work on US and European models as well as UK models. I just did a DCC sound install in an Oxford Rail J27 for a fellah. Turned out rather well hardest part is routing all the wires.
Arent the mankey brushes the best for cleaning stuff from bodys to diesels steamers and ya teeth hahaha Keep up the good work and gr8 video there Bill. We are learning heaps fro you m8 so thanks millions m8
Recently had to strip mine down as awful screeching noise when going in one direction. Full clean and runs fine. How long were you looking for the screw in the chimney though!? Took the traction tyres off too and runs better and a lot less stalling over points. Sure she pulls less but how much did the real ones actually pull
It'll run and generally it'll run better. You'll get a little grumbling sound from the grooved wheels with no tyres but you won't get the stops and starts you get with them on. You will lose traction so don't expect it to pull much.
@@oobill Thanks Bill. I dare say having it pulling a little consist is better than it sitting like an ornament! I have the contact pads on the pick-ups on the pony wheels to re-find as well(stuck inside the pick-up with gunk too!) and it was good to see the extent I need to go to do the repairs needed, and where the screws are. Thanks again Bill. I was surprised at the drive gear too! Keep safe, sir!
bit silly having a long drive shart,surely power is lost over that distance,then trying to make up for loss of power by fitting traction tyres.best wishesjpj
I got 2 from about 10 years ago with a smaller motor, not the older drive shaft types though. Neither have any ever run right. few weeks ago I finally made one run well by replacing that useless rear wheel spring with a stiffer home wound one. Took a lot of trial n error to get the tension right. Almost stall proof n smooth now. However it wasn't without a fight. Removing the body, disassembling the chassis n trying to put it back together properly was difficult. Horrible design. Very swear wordy. Difficult clips everywhere, wires had to be de-soldered n threaded through, soldering them back slightly melted the plastic insulation sheets, after the faff the pickups would pop through the spokes n bend in the struggle n it is just amazingly un-user friendly. Dog shit actually! But it's working well now. Why TF they couldn't put a good spring on in the factory I'll never know.
