I serviced a Hornby 0-6-0 chassis recently that had suffered the dreaded mazak rot. The chassis had expanded making it difficult to remove the wheelset, and there were bits of fine metal all over it - which seems very similar to what you have showed us in this video. The coupling hole had also failed as you demonstrated. Also I notice at 11:17 the flat part of the chassis in front of the motor looks bumpy and raised - is the metal expanding here as well. I was able to source a 'new' chassis on-line, had no problems fitting the wheelset back in.
Total perseverance . Well done . It’s a nice running nicely finished model, it’s just that an 08 should have outside frames and because of this models genetic chassis with old Thomas Tank Engine and Jinty it doesn’t have any . Looks a bit naked under the running plate. Superb slow running round layout though . Great videos as usual . You say you kick yourself for not spotting these things but actually you spotted it - a bit like the derailing of my A1 was due to the non pivoting back pony . Would never have got that !
Another repair done. persistence paid off. I have saved quite a few of your videos in the hope I will learn to make repairs, I can do basic ones at the moment.
I’m in the process of my first refurb of a loco with one of these. Full strip down of the paint too as it had a terrible home paint job. Will be psyching myself up to rebuild the motor
Nice model. Looks good. The new ones are fabulous, as are the Bachmann ones. I have one of each in Green, sound fitted and they’re superb performers - 70% of the time........... a spec of dirt is all that’s needed to stop them! I have a match-truck permanently connected with additional pickups which has helped. The sound fit and necessary modifications are not for the faint hearted though!
Hi Bill, thanks for another great video. I’ve bought a couple of old 08’s with the intention of servicing them and fixing up, but just not got round to it yet. Your videos are a great heads up on what to expect. Thanks again
Patience is a virtue they say. And, Bill, you’ve more than a fair share of that. Makes you wonder why they use these breakable plastic clips when a couple of screws would do a better job. All the best. Mick.
@bill. Found this just now, didn't realise you had one like this very similar to my one I emailed about. Getting the body off was a pain, in the end I broke the blooming clip, like you say... A couple of screws would have been enough lol Interesting aswell, the bits of chassis was a similar issue on mine. R2425... And the cause the classic 2000s shoddy metal mazac! Yay! Bearings so tight btw due to the metal expansion, i loosened mine a little by filing but still bit tight.
Hi Bill, If you go for an 08 shunter IMHO the Wrenn one is a much better runner. But the Lima one is quite nice as well. Especially if you put the new cd motor in it. Both of these have the correct external frames and coupling rods rather than the generic Hornby 0-6-0 ones
Hi Bill, thanks for the video. It's always good to watch you and you've taught me much from loco maintenance to how to use a multimeter. What makes your videos so good is the way you put everything into simple terminology that even someone like me can understand. Thanks again.
In order to learn about a particular fault, you have to be able to (a) demonstrate it in action and (b) work out what's causing it. If you don't persevere, you risk not fixing the fault, resulting in frustration for yourself and disappointment for the customer. I can well understand Bill not wanting to give in!
hi Bill,great video,have just finished doing one of these shunters. have put a motor with the brass worm gear in, runs much better, out of interest the instructions tell you to put a small screw driver in the radiator end and lever the body off. you have to be careful, remove coupling first.all in all these are great little 08s at a good price and do the job ,just like the ones at 170 pounds.i bought my railroad ones when they were 35 pounds each, have been waiting for a bottom base plate for over a year, hornby spare parts service is as useless as a chocolate tea pot
The body fixing is similar to my J83 and J52 so I know how to insert the screwdriver to remove them. However, with this model it wouldn't budge and would only come off by sliding the screwdriver up from below. I hate clips.
A model railway stand at kempton park back in 2004 had these for £15 brand new split from the train set with the chip in he had 10 all lined up wish I had got one and removed the chip he provided a free blanking plate and would take off a further few quid if he removed the chip and you gave it back to him ,instead I brought a class 155 in West Yorkshire PTE red mind you that was a bargain too ,all the best
I think a Class 08 Shunter completes a layout, there is something about them. This one looks very good in that colour scheme. Hate that clip on body, so nerve wracking and interesting info about the possible mazak rot. Is it restricted to a particular production period? In case I end up unwittingly buying one. Another enjoyable end scene running the Caledonian too.
Another good video. To be fair Bill, a slot in the buffer beam to secure the body bothers you, but the model doesn't even have an underframe with outside frames. These versions of the 0-6-0 shunter are no better than toys. As mentioned in a previous comment, the Wrenn (or later Lima variant) are much better than these shockingly inaccurate Hornby efforts.
The slot doesn't bother me as such i was just mentioning that it isn't very aesthetically pleasing which, for some, will be intolerable. But for me it's the fact the body clips on rather than screws on that is more annoying. Detail, or the lack of it, doesn't bother me in the slightest.
Is it my imagination but this is a very old model. The proper 08 shunter has outside frames and so the frames hide the wheels. As you said it may well have mazack rot. Unfortunately this affects a lot of locomotives and I don't know of any cure apart from replacing the parts if any have been manufactured. Iancooper62.
I am surprised that these 08's are suffering from Mazak rot. What I would like to know is the chassis the same as the one fitted with the X03/4 motor. If so I have some motor mounts that are the same as fitted to that model and I have bought some motors from China. I have already fitted one motor into my Triang S Class Saddle Tank and it seems to work fine. I do not have a layout yet, but on my Rolling road, it ran ok. Martin. (Thailand)
This model dates back to the early days of Tri-ang, although a completely new body moulding was made in the early '70's (the earlier one looks weird.) It has always been in the range and always used with the current 0-6-0 chassis, so in the '70s-'90s you could easily swap with any other X04-motored loco such as the Jinty or Pannier tank engines.
hello, could you please advise what grease is suitable for that central gear, Also what lubricating oil is best, I use Wahl clipper oil, any thoughts? thank you so much
I wouldn't say generally or professionally or anything like that. But I'm happy to take on a loco if you want me to and it's something I'd be interested in. Email me via address in About tab for details.
I have exactly the same model as in the video - D4174 - bought from e-bay. It runs brilliantly, even at a slow crawl - but only on a straight track! It won't go around the gentlest of curves. The axles don't seem to have room to move sideways, so the wheels are always in a straight line. No idea how to solve the problem. Any ideas?
Do you mean it cuts out? Or it gets jammed as it goes to a corner? I would follow the video...pop the motor off and then see if you can push it manually on corners. If so, then it's nothing to do with the chassis or wheelset and more the power pickup. CAREFUL with the front clip, it's a pain!!!! 😢 Best of luck.
My 08 shunter is not working R152 moter is working help Cleaned comutatior pick ups buffer light goes out when i put it on track a shorting probleum ?????
Hi Bill. If you want to see poor design of bodywork on an 08 shunter, look at an old (1963 ish) Hornby Dublo 08, which had a totally visible flathead screw on display right in the middle of the bonnet. Your little gap in the buffer beam pales by comparison.
I noticed at 0:24 the loco was rocking on its centre axle, so I knew there would be trouble. The business of Mazak rot has put me right off buying newer locomotives. Lesney used the same stuff for their Matchbox cars, and they didn't suffer the problem, and I haven't had any issues with (Hornby) Margate-built models.
