I’m about to sell a house I bought a couple years back and grabbed a sprayer. My buddy who’s a painter told me to back roll everything which I’m going to do but I feel like your method is better than a lot of the other videos I’ve seen where they are just whipping the sprayer around it doesn’t even look like the walls are getting covered. Your walls look like they are nice and wet and even after the back roll I’m going to do my house like you did here.
When you were describing the application technique you should add or edit that you don’t want to roll the spray pattern . You did an excellent job with elevating and lowering your wand and extension, what I find a lot of rookies do is stand in one place and “arc” the wand instead of adjusting body position as you go. Well done man! We use a power twin system (8900) for shipping containers . 619 tip with a Axalta dtm. Probably around 50 gallons/week in summer. Just giving you my background as so many are keyboard specialists.
Just after tutorials before I buy one and do the job myself, quote was ridiculous, obviously didn't want the job. €3,500 plus vat for a 9mx9m wooden cabin.
Yes, I paint like that a lot spray the walls one or two and then back roll the one or two walls. I also most of the time use my jet roller on repaints if the people are not home and I can mask off everything. Jet roller is a little bit slower than your method but it’s more convenient because it’s just one device. I like to use a 514 FFLP tip on walls.
Hey, i followed all your directions in the video and painted my dining room. It came out great and this was my first time using an airless sprayer. I wanted to say thanks, I owe it all to you for teaching me.
Thank you for the video. Very helpful. You make it look so easy!! If you doing a new drywall , how would you go about the spraying and back rolling? The drywall absorbs the primer so fast. Thanks again and keep on the good work!!
@@MMPRECISIONPAINTING I found another video that you did four years ago: PRIMING NEW CONSTRUCTION - SUPER EASY! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ko1Z-uuZHeQ.html Thank you and keep on the awesome work!!
I can get through that music what's I'm using the word music how about I'll call that robot music. Anyway we need to get you guys a better theme song. Free master of his trade has the best of the best tools and to make music you need instruments and keyboards and synthesizers are not. Believe synthesize that's the meaning to fake it. Anyway that orange pill looks killer lot better than the one I just got done doing 20 minutes ago. I'm not done yet though I never done till it looks good yo. You guys popped up as a suggestion so thanks for the motivation!!!!!
Stupid question...when you back roll should you get paint on your roller first before starting? I get that as you back roll your roller will get paint I'm talking about when you first start to back roll. Or does it matter? Just bought an airless painter and haven't used it yet.
If I didn't backroll but need to touch up a sprayed area that I can't respray do you have any advice on getting it to blend? Microfibre or sponge roller?
In my experience only spraying works. I have touched up sprayed trim before by using sponge roller with flotrol latex extender added to the paint. You may want to try that!
Just curious but why would someone spray and backroll when they can just roll initially? It would seem less work with masking to just roll 2 coats. Does it leave less stipple with the spray or something?
It leaves no stipple with spraying. If you spray it on and need to touch it up at anytime you'll need to spray on the touch ups or it will flash and not match. I spray it on to save the time and hassle of dipping the roller and transferring it from bucket to wall, plus moving the five around.
Would you say it's okay to backroll primer onto new plaster and then not backroll top coats? To save time. I assume the texture from the primer coat would be enough to be able to touch up later with a roller if needed?
thanks for the upload! I have a pretty stupid question I guess, but here it is: how do you prep the roller? I guess it shouldn't be complitely dry? Thanks again!
Hey champ! this video was crucial in helping me paint my house except well, there were some areas I missed with the roller after spraying! So, after it dried, you werent lying about the rolling stippling not matching the spray stippling. How do I fix this uneven look? Should I just respray the part that wasn't backrolled and then backroll it since most of the house was backrolled? Thanks for uploading!
Thanks for the video. I just have a question. On an exterior painting job using a good quality paint and using a sealer coat is it really necessary to spray and back roll two times or should one time be good enough. Thanks,
Back rolling shouldn't be necessary if the prep is done right. Two coats sprayed is ideal. One coat will also suffice, but requires a little more skill to get the proper millage or thickness.
Great video. I'm just checking, is the back rolling done with a dry roller or is there some paint on it. I'm about to spray and back roll for the first time. Also, I'm doing an external concrete block wall which is quite porus. Not sure how that compares to your internal method.Thanks again for the video.
Use a thick nap 1/2 inch or so. You can load the roller prior with the sprayer on the wall. Just put it on the wall and roll up and down while your spraying directly on the roller. I normally use a dry roller though, it gets a ton of paint in it after about 4 or 5 roller widths of spraying.
Thanks so much. Loading the roller with the sprayer, is that just to avoid having to have a separate tray for the roller and one last thing, I'm working alone so should I spray say 20 feet at a time, then roll? I assume getting the rolling done as quickly as possible is important?
@@shanecummins2556 Yes, you don't want the paint to dry before you roll it. Keep in mind weather conditions too. You can spray on more before backrolling in cooler conditions or the shade than in the sun or a hot day.
Okay so I looked through all of the comments and didn’t see my question to save you time. My question is how often do you back roll? Will you do it for each coat or just the final one? Do you back roll if you are using a high build primer? Any issues I should watch out for if I am spraying an 18’ tall entry walls with a room that measures 6’ x 12’. Thanks for your time.
Yes, I always backroll, even with high build primer. I also backroll on every coat. Backrolling accounts for several variables. One: It allows you to really work the primer into the substrate/wall. 2: It allows you to apply an even coat on each respective coat. 3: It saves on material costs by way of example 2 above, to save you on cost of material/paint. 4: It allows you to touch up with a roller instead of having to break out an airless. This is due to the fact that the stippling, however subtle, makes a difference in the final color. The sheen and possibly color of a coat that is sprayed on will be different than a coat that has been rolled. So if you or the homeowners ever have to do touch ups, it would be best to use the same method you used when originally applying the paint. Given that most homeowners don't own an airless, I generally backroll. That being said, I don't always backroll. If it's my own home and It's a small space, then I will sometimes skip the steps, while realizing that I have sacrificed all the benefits listed above for the sake of speed. As for larger walls, there shouldn't be a problem. Make sure you have an extension pole, and maybe grab an 18 inch roller to cover more ground quickly and try to keep a wet edge. Hope this helps.
M&M PRECISION PAINTING thank you for your response this helps me greatly. My main concern with the tall walls is that I only have 6 feet of width. I’m having to work off of scaffolding so a large extension pole isn’t really an option. I hope that I can work quick enough to keep a wet edge while back rolling and taking down the scaffolding as I go. 🤞🏻Thanks again. Looking forward to watching more of your videos.
I like to keep my sprayer in the other room to keep the overspray off of it. And what’s with that ceiling? Seems like they’re going to mess up your paint job when the put that up.
No. If you spray your first spot really heavy and bankroll it, it will load the roller appropriately. Then you can lighten up on the amount of paint your putting.
I usually start it dry and it accumulates quickly. If you want, you can load it up by spraying a section of the wall and rolling your roller in it until you get the desired amount on your roller.
@@MMPRECISIONPAINTING @M&M PRECISION PAINTING thanks! Do I need to backroll each coat? I'm painting on fresh plaster. I'd like the roller texture but surely once I've done a coat or 2 backrolled then the texture will remain and for final coat isn't needed?
Normally I will do my ceilings first, regardless of whether or not I'm spraying or brushing and rolling! If I'm just brushing and rolling I will cut the wall in after the ceiling is done freehand, or you can just use some tape on the ceiling where the wall meets it. When I'm spraying I use 12 inch masking paper on a 3m hand masker with frog tape and mask it like in the video here. If your sprayer pressure is not too high, all the paint will simply fall avoiding the ceiling!
If I’m repainting a house, say after moving, but it’s not new drywall, do i still need to backroll? Or is the original paint providing the texture good enough? Thanks!
The back rolling on new construction is mainly to push the material into the substrate, and to provide an even coat. That being said, if the wall is textured and pre painted you can probably get away with just spraying it. If you ever have to touch up it "could" be a problem if the texture isn't enough to hide the different pattern that stippling can create. Hope that made sense!
your viodes are helpful but adding descriptions with that big font makes me just close the video, it's not good for the eyes, just have the at the bottom of the video with much smaller like subtitles, thank you!
You don't have to. I normally don't. I just put a little extra on the wall at first and my roller gets loaded pretty fast. I'll reduce the amount of paint I spray on as I go, as the roller becomes more and more loaded. You will eventually reach a point where your roller will be so loaded that you have to unload it by doing a section without spraying, just roll it on, to prevent too much paint being applied. Hopefully this helps! If you still have questions please ask! I will always answer your questions!😁
@@MMPRECISIONPAINTING thanks, I am getting ready to repaint a few rooms in my house, spray and back roll, it has the same type of knockdown texture as in your video. Going to be my first attempt at this and wanted to make sure I had all the details. I appreciate the help.
Hi M&M PRECISION, i got the same sprayer as you Graco 390, on new drywall on the ceilling, once the primer is sprayed if i use flat white paint do you think i need to cross spray my ceilling ? I mean spray in a direction and dont wait until the coat get dry and spray in the opposite direction. To be sure to avoid lap mark, do you do that ? What is the best way ? Thanks for your help, i like your video! What can you recommand me for brand of paint at sherwin-william ? I live in Canada.
Fortunately when dealing with flat paint lap marks become less of an issue. It matters whether or not the ceiling is textured etc. So just to cover the worst case scenario, I am going to assume you have the basic level 5 finish and want to avoid lap marks. In that situation, I normally just ensure that I overlap at 50 percent and that I stay consistent with that. Given the ceilings orientation it is less apt to drip, so you can pretty confidently put it on thick. If you are going to backroll, then I would suggest two opposing passes. 2nd coat should be started in same location as the 1st coat was started and same pattern used, just in opposite direction. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Thanks to reply fast! The way I was planning to do it, PVA primer, and one coat of Pro Mar 400 flat for ceilling. I'm not planing to backroll the ceilling, just walls. Do you think one coat of Pro Mat will look good? Would you do two passes, I'mean one coat not too thick in one way, and an other passe opposite way more thick, and not waiting for the first coat to get dryed ? Just to be sure there no laps mark. Or maybe spray section by section on the ceilling as long as the ceilling is keeping wet so i dont have laps marks. I tought maybe i will have laps marks if i try to walk and spray at the same time cause i dont have experience too much. Thanks to help me ! :)
@@stevebeaulieu2617 One coat of Pro mar should work. If not, you can always just hit it again. Just be sure to over lap 50 percent on each pass and keep a steady speed and distance to ensure you get even coverage.
M&M Did you ever tryed paint at Dulux store? If yes, can you give me some choice for primer, ceilling mat, eggshell or velvet for walls. It's a new construction. For walls I plan to put 1 coat of primer and 1 coat of finish paint. I'dlike to be able to wash the walls if I need to. Thanks a lot ! :)
@@MMPRECISIONPAINTING That makes sense, thanks for your reply. I've got some paint projects coming up and have been a little intimidated with using an airless sprayer indoors. Again, this was instructive and very encouraging. Take care!
Nice job. Just a question. Why would you choose this method over a brush and roller? Wouldn't the masking/prep/setting up the gun/spraying/back rolling/removing prep/cleaning gun etc be a longer process over using a brush and roller? You're essentially rolling everything anyway. Why not go around the room once..If you were doing a whole new house and had a partner following you back rolling I can understand. I'm no expert I don't do domestic painting I'm just genuinely curious. Thanks.
I've actually timed it before and it's about 3 times faster with this method. Of course every situation is different. If I feel that brushing and rolling are more productive, then I will go with that.
M&M PRECISION PAINTING it’s at least three times faster. If you have let’s see a yellow color on the walls to start with and you were just brushing and rolling you would need to apply to complete coats so it’s probably five times faster in that case.
Hey Mike, Do you put retarder into your paint for walls? I tryed that and the paint add a hard time to stick to the wall, made some leaks. I took LP 619 tip. Thank for reply body !
@@Mowers11 I feel like the hea tip is a little faster from a production standpoint, than say a graco low pressure tip, not an fflp though. The graco lp tip is the equivalent to a titan hea. The fflps are awesome for trim and doors.
Great vid! Simple and to the point. Question: How do you keep the plastic/paper/drop cloth from sticking to your shoes when protecting a finished floor?
Usually use rosin paper or something similar if there are wood floors involved. In that case, we tape it down plus all the seams to prevent it from moving. Drop cloths don't really stick to your shoes that much.
Hey I’m just guessing you are spraying with about a 517 tip? Let me know how close I am, LOL. I like a 619 in my sprayer but that’s about as big as it will go. Don’t you just hate shooting indoors with bright windows? They screw with my exposure all the time. Good video though. Catch you later.
PVA is usually needed for fresh texter.. it primes AND also seals.. The sealing part is important when dealing with raw texture/drywall whatever your coming up on.. to pva a wall jus cuz its stupid, no real painter ever does that, that guy is trying to skimp on coats. I feel bad for dude having to paint out of such a nice vehicle... like a Mazda lol he needs to open trigger the walls or lap marks.. he sprays kind of hacky too.. but I like it!
@@MMPRECISIONPAINTING Looks like you did a nice job. I'm new to spraying, it's helpful to see how other professionals do it. I wouldn't use PVA though as it can cause paint to craze. Better to simply mist coat or use a specific primer like Zinsser Gardz. Thanks for the video.
dubbing the music in pretty much ruined what could have been a great video , unless you wanna be on MTV . Shoulda left music off an talked about pressure settings or something
