best deal on Goodyear air hose best stuff I have ever used amzn.to/3b5cJvy I misspoke on the eve color into the stucco. I will be brushing the stucco color into the eve. keep that in mind.
How do you decide what color to paint the eves? and do you paint the outside of that upper trim a white, like the rest of your house? I have a dark gray for the house, white trim...so what should I paint them? I got a 2 10 paint tip, is that going to be small enough? Ive never used a different size tip. Thanks so much! And Im always up for not taping and plastic or paper over stuff!!! Even if you tape it off, you can still get bleeds through!!!! Love this video, Thanks so much!!!
Hello mike the painter. Are you familiar with the after market silver gun? They look exactly like the Graco silver gun, exact copy for way cheaper. Are they any good?
I see ya. I've personally tried both ways . I've mastered alot of different teqniques spraying stucco with major color changes and spraying out eves/facia. In ever thing you do you at all cost want to avoid going back and climbing up that ladder again. So the best way I found, is to mask and spray all in one shot.
you are going up 4 times. Once to mask it again to spray it then again to remove the masking paper.once to touch up. I go up 2 times . Once to spray it once to touch up. done.
No, what he is saying, he goes up only one time as you go up twice.. He goes up to mask, sprays and take down the making... Then goes back down and repeats... No cuting in, shaper lines and not climbing up the ladder twice... Much faster IMO.... That's how I do it also. Another way to save time....I use 2 ladders side by side for jumping one ladder to the next without coming down the ladder.. Half the ladder work... If you know how to lay down your tape in one direction, when pulling the masking it will come off in one piece. So I go up and mask 5 feet with 4in paper, then spray, then jump to the next ladder, mask another 5 feet, spray and pull down all the masking from the 2nd ladder I jump to... then come down the ladder Repeat... Like your setup...
I will spray most of the eve out then brush up against the stucco. Keeping my set up with me on a ladder hook....no masking.... I would never blast the wall then have to come back...seems stupid to me
@@nothingsimpostleble1593 yeah and it’s way easier and faster to touch up or finish painting the smooth eve than it is to paint the top edge of the stucco. When I’m inside doing door jambs and they want them rapped to wall I just hit wall with the enamel a little bit and come back and cut the wall back in. Way faster, straighter lines, and better coverage!
@@mermaidmuncher2708 yup or if I'm spraying a full interior I'll spray the walls first(then Drape them to shoot the ceiling) and get the wall paint on casings to get a higher build. Then when I go to spray trim and doors which I do at the end, it's wayyy easier to run a strip of paper around the edge of casings then to try and wrap everything in the beginning and makes touch up sooo much easier
That's how you get everything done fast and efficient. Insted of going back and wiping your tail or someone else your spraying out the garage or cleaning out pump and loading truck!
This eliminates going back. You can pull your paper after each run especially on the highs. You should also paint facia at the same time. I personally like to brush and roll facia. If it's a two coat system, paint facia 1st then 2nd mask wall(allowing for facia to dry) 3rd spray eves(back roll and spray again if color change or necessary for coverage) 4th brush/roll facia 5th climb down ladder and repeat till at stopping point!
remember masking is another trip up the ladder to mask then remove. You can take up your trim color and your stucco color and paint the facia and touch up underneath on the same trip up the ladder. I have done that before when painting by myself.. The trick is it takes practice to cut the paint just right to brush the stucco in with less effort.
What I will do thats faster and eliminates masking altogether is instead of getting the eve color on the wall, I'll spray about 2 inches away from the stucco and cut the rest of the eve with a brush while I'm up there and facia in the same move. I'll have the duce bucket with a brush and roller set hooked onto the ladder. That way your cutting in wood versus stuck and when I get down from the ladder, it's done. Like completely done.
@@nothingsimpostleble1593 working the brush upside down is a bit of a pain. Try getting it on the stucco and cutting the paint with water next time. The master is to cut the paint with water to the right consistency to fill in the cracks and still cover. I can do a whole house in less than an hour all the gable ends and touch up the stucco. also the shield blow outs. around all the lights. and touch up misses. which I dont have very many because of how I spray straight at the wall
Yo Mike, What ever works best for you with the proper final finish that lasts. You are correct about using flat. Even with the best primer. Learned this from my Father in Law. Best Journeyman painter in the Trade. Stay cool and provide that Awesome Craftmanship and Knowledge to your Customers.
EXCELLENT VIDEO Please... PLease ... PLEASE tell me what kind of Airless sprayer you're using? (Don't laugh)... I "Flip" houses for years now... but I started painting my STUCCO House... and I have painted other stucco houses, with a brush and a 12 foot pole, but this Stucco is resally rough and it is eating my rollers up... I should have bought a sprayer from the get-go. What could you suggest for a beginner sprayer... Thank you for your help, and sharing this video
Hi Mike, please I really will like to know the type of gun you use and also can it go with any compressor. thanks so much fur answering me , I'm in the UK and really impress with your technic.
My respect for this guy, he's spraying machine set up is unique. I never seen this. I have a question... I saw your video on what parts you use for your gun.. I spray a lot of interior trim on nice houses.. Are those types of tips good for fine finish on trim?
for the most part yes. There are times I use a reversa double orifice for cabinet doors. and some parts. I still use a regular flat tip for doors. just go 18 inches away turn the pressure up a little. just a little.
when they are peeling, I power wash with spinning tip on that kind of eve (rough sawn wood). on rough sawn wood there is not usually a need for primer. the paints are self priming for rough sawn wood. The only need for primer is when you have a staining issue. I scrape as I go generally on that substrate. There was no peeling on this house because I did it since it was new. painted before it started to peel. Long term customer. Finally they passed away and house after this went up for sale.
I came across this video with the same question. There appears to be over spray on the eves which would indicate he painted the walls first. I would probably do the same except shield the wall while spraying and avoid the need to double back and fix it with a brush.
I have some exposed rafter tails on a older house. I was thinking of just painting them to make it clean. Some of the wood never been painted, so I was wondering what to use. I probably have to use some wood filler type stuff on a couple pieces. And there's some t1-11 type trim I want to remove and just let the block exposed. Must've been a style in the 60's * so don't use enamel 1st tip
Morning. In response to what you said,that is incorrect sir. I climb the ladder once! I climb up with handmasker hanging from back pocket,roll of tape around wrist,and with 2gal bucket with brush & roller(with paint hook) and spray line. Everything done once! Touch ups done with extension pole when necessary,but very minimal, because I'm very detailed.
would be nice if I could have my hand fit through a roll or fape ha ha. too much to carry up there for me. All that stuff would slow me down but great thinking. My way gives you an opportunity to touch up the walls. Everyone gets spray misses of some sort. Plus the masking SHOULD all come down but you know it doesnt always happen like that .
hey mike great video bud, I saw that you did the brown after you had already done the walls and I guess you said you were going back to touch up the small finger size overspray on the body, why dont you do the lighter color first and get the overspray on the darker color? which I believe it will be much easier to cover the lighter overspray with the darker color, just my thought. great video!
actually it is easier than you think I touch up dark brown with off white all the time. One trip cut the paint and be light on tips of the brush. Just gotta be good. practice makes perfect.
i tried your way. i put away the extension and used a 413 tip. but is till got a lot of over-spray. when i turned the pressure down, i got dribble/ spit. what did i do wrong? shout out from san bernardino ca!
tip orifice might be too small for the material. pressure might be too low. there is a balance between too much pressure and too little. If it is spitting you might have a loose tip or air getting into the paint. Or not adequate sealing somewhere between the gun head and the tip could cause spitting.
Keep on painting brother,but theres no way you would beat me doing it that way. I would be loading my truck while your going back cutting in stucco & painting facia
I bury every guy who said that but keep on keeping on. I have never had anyone who is faster than me but I am old now. 55 semi retired and still fast. You would be the first.
I'm getting up there to,43 and enjoy painting. I pay attention to pretty much everything including my time when I do stuff. If your local sub me out on a job according to how long you think it will take a journey man level "painter" to do at $25 an hour. When it's all said and done I should beat your hours and make $30 and up.
As a customer I like nice crisp lines. This is one of the reasons I don’t hire painters, sloppy work. I don’t doubt you’re making money but the customer isn’t getting their money’s worth. In your other video you admitted to dropping your quality of work to make money.
Tudo bom Mike, sou do Brasil e gostaria muito de adquirir esse adaptador com filtros e bicos para pintar esmalte verniz e látex acrílico ,.serve em qualquer pistola airless ?? você poderia me indicar um lugar onde que eu posso comprar o kit completo ,ou você mesmo vende ...aguardo resposta obrigado desde já parabéns pelo vídeo....
Mario Kienen mak'artes pintura profissional/ fala Mário! Vc pode comprar no eBay - Eua (US) e montar vc mesmo. Procure primeiro por ( silver gun) depois por ( flat tip ) e o ( fine mesh filters) td em inglês . Qualquer dúvida manda mensagem pra mim que tentarei te ajudar, abraços. Luiz
Obrigado.. mais não consigo achar todas as peças necessárias que vi nos seus vídeos..a pistola que tenho aqui,preciso de um bico pra látex acrílico e um pra verniz ou esmalte como vc esta usando,43 996231125 esse é meu número do watts..da uma força aí 👍🏼
I always brush and roll facia. You get it into the cracks better and I do it first with a roller then chase it with a really wet brush dipping it several times to smooth it out. very thick coat there.
mikethepainter ok, sometimes i brush and roll the facia with oil primer if they are bad and when i spray the soffit I’ll spray the facia as well or do you roll and brush both coats on facia ? Guess it all depends on the facia and shape of it
yea cut it with a bit of water and brush the stucco into the eve. Really easy to do. Saves hundreds now in masking materials. They have gone up dramatically
Not sure if the customer specified semi-gloss but it seems flat or maybe even matte paint would've hidden those unsanded wood imperfections a little more.
With a RacX ff lp tip you don’t have to worry about overspray, saves paint, and pump. Just shield either body or eve. There’s more than one way to skin a cat!
I have done it both ways. my guys like to mask and I beat them every time. they are fast maskers too. Also am I. I bring up 2 buckest when I am working by myself. stucco and trim 2 trips up the ladder all walls touched up 2 trips. brush and roll facia always. This is just another way, masking works fine but in a tight market this can be much more profitable. Just takes practice getting the paint cut just right.
@@mikethepainter you never cut the paint! I use Benjamin Moore, best paint on the market. Covers great, lays down, great color retention. It’s worth every penny,
You've talked about the pressure setting you use (in several of your videos) as being something you set by feel and it changes according to the weather conditions and paint used. Have you recoded a video explaining what you look for when setting your pressure and some of the considerations given when setting your pressure. If you have not addressed this yet this would make a good video to hear you talk about this topic as you narrate over some of your house painting footage. Just a thought.
Actually your way is slower masking off is faster. Your not even using a extension on your spray gun. Your spending alot more time going up and down your ladder too much.
First rule of painting never caulk eves. it gets too hot and the caulking will fail. you actually want the paint to not seal in there so if water gets behind it has someplace to go.
Good gun control but i rather put one strip of tape and elimintate as much touch up as possible it takes more time to comeback with a brush than to put one strip of paint but each to its own thats my own conclusion
Enamel is the best based on prep I've been painting for 35 yrs and never had a problem..same customers have me paint their houses 10 yrs later and eves and trim withstand termite and dry rot..painting with flat on eves and facial is inexpensive and cracks fades in less time and if not prepped termite infestations may occur...you get what you pay for...
you have cracks in the wood all around the eves. when you wash the house down. (should be done about every year) the water can release without being trapped in the wood. When it is trapped it has no place to go but pop off the paint.
@@CritterStyle sorry man there was absolutely no dust or overspray on any windows. It is all about the tip, pressure and consistency of the paint to make sure you have NO fallout. Put the reversa tip away and the pole gun. those are all reasons for getting fallout (overspray or dust)
