Aktiv Grizzly XP '89 | Clutch problem Part-2

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It doesn't really tell that much when there's no resistance in the clutch, but as the engine is turned off, the belt simply can be knocked off by the tips of your finger, not suppose to be that easy... And as I turn the inner disc, it got much more clearer, the spring is not in its place... The week after I took the clutch appart, after purchasing new cam-buttons in case they were worn out also. And I was right, the spring had came out of it's place, and had been carving on the surface around the holes within the cams.
Thanks for watching!

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16 мар 2012

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Комментарии : 2

@SweedSleds95 12 лет назад

Yeah, I know the belt isn't meant for this sled, but changed it last season when I was too cheap to buy a new one, but that has nothing to do with it. The problem was the spring, it had ripped up the original hole, and there was a clear rip in the aluminium from the hole and the spring tap had been shorten off, and there for when the sled was under stress, the belt just slipped down between the disks. Took it appart and fixed the spring and greased it all up and it was driving like a dream again

@2500vtg 12 лет назад

Hope you have the problem resolved with your driven clutch. It's hard to tell from the vid, but it looks to me like you have way too much belt to sheave clearance in your drive (primary ) clutch. It looks like there's a good 1/4" or more space between the belt and the sheave at idle. With the engine shut off and the belt positioned at the bottom of the drive clutch, you should only have about 0.020" clearance between the belt and the sheaves. A bit more is ok, but certainly no more than 0.040".