Long term review of Shimano's Alfine 11 speed hub with di2 electronic shifting. Performance excellent but reliability problems with oil leaks and electrical connectors
It's a real world review where you can see the bike is actually being used as intended. I hate "reviews", where someone gives his opinion on a certain component after a few weeks or even just days of use, where you can see everything is still shiny and new, as if the bike has been just rolled out of a showroom.
@@kosztaz87 while it does look like it's used as intended, it's certainly not maintained and cleaned as intended. one doesn't exclude the other, does it?
I see there’s lots of comments on the fact that this bike seems to see very little maintenance (and lots of miles). To me this is very helpful because it’s nice to see what will fail when it’s pushed to the limit. I’d probably just replace that seal if it started to leak, don’t think I’d want to let it keep contaminating my brakes. It’s unfortunate they don’t have a better connector system for a hub that obviously needs to be unplugged for maintenance/repairs to the wheel. Shimano should address that. I am curious if cleaning the connector thoroughly would help prevent damage. Thanks for the review!
Instead of unplugging at the motor, use a 10 cm cable that connects to a junction. When the motor needs disconnecting, unplug it at the junction. In this way, when the plug wears out only the cable and/or junction need replacing.
@siemenssx1 Keeps the dirt off the seal and reduces abrasion on the exterior of the unit. Cars, motorcycles, bicycles will all last longer if you keep them clean.
"see here, i merely was in a pinch whilst trolling for crustaceans in me canal boat, and it wasn't too far off shore off the mouth of the canal itself, when i realized i hadn't an achor to wait out the eddy but ,... thinking quickly i tied off a length of rope, fastened it to a cleat on the port bow, and my Di2 bike on the other, and cast the bike overboard and used it as an anchor whilst i lived on the hook for two seasons, and after only a mere two seasons it was, i retrieved this so called top of line velocipede to find to my staunch disliking that it was no longer operatable. so i goes back to the shanty village where this affect was procured, and well,...after a heartfelt exchange with the dealer that sold me said (and only loosely termed to be such) "bike", and this rascals attitude which i can only describe as obstinate, having such tone, well,..i will declare that i wont be having any business with that brand or franchise of mine own accord any time forsee-able, i can tell you that." J R A.
The problem there my good fellow is the mixing of salt water at the estuary mouth resulting in a brine. In future i would advice avoiding the such brine and so retain warranty.
one word would likely solve both your problems... maintenance. shit is likely getting into the seals and wearing them allowing a leak. And dirt getting into the connector is self explanatory. our bikes we use for hire use Shimanos lower end hubs and have done years of service, bit since we clean the bike we've literally have never run into a problem.
Agree that regularly cleaning your bike would help a great deal. I meant that is ridiculously filthy! Perhaps the cone nuts were just a little loose on the NDS, hence the oil leak? Or buy a new seal? As for the Di2 connector, simply buy the shortest cable they do and add a small Di2 connection box. Simples. I think some people do literally assume this setup is 'maintenance free'. It's not.
Agree with Tim Jarksy's comment - put a new connector in 8-15 cm from the motor, and then epoxy the motor cable in place. Easy fix, and a good small soldering iron can solder up any kind of connector to the wire. Put a matching connector on the other end, and secure the controller end of the connector to the frame.
Is it two core, or two core and shield? I could easily solder that, just would wonder what kind of connector to use ranging from cheap audio, waterproof audio, small RF, PowerPole.....
If you fit tubeless tyres and keep your chain clean, you will not have to remove the wheel more than once every few years to replacr the rotor, the pads can be replaced by simply removing the brake calliper, sometimes you can unscreew the side bolts and fit the calliper back with no alligment, free tip ;) p.s that is one dirty bike!
8-year-old video, but handy info, so thanks, I'm building a 2024 version with a belt drive and will be sure to add an extra connector to avoid that problem.
8000miles with alfine8... did you do the recommendet service (oilbath after 3-5000 miles). Maybe then it woult not rust internaly..... cleaning by the way helps a lot *g* you are talking about inspecting things... have you ever inspectet your chain? just look at it.. how dirty it is. I have never seen such a dirty bike....
I took 8 speed in for service slightly over 1 year for the service, and moisture had already ruined the inside. Apparently with the 8 speed if you ride in the rain it's recommended (not by Shimano, but by people who service them) to relubricate them when they are brand new as they say they don't come with sufficient grease.
Great critic, please mail it to Shimano, so they can improve the next generations. Did you change the oil (AFAIK, this should be done after ~3000 km) Sad trend: "Maintenance free", ends up being impossible to maintenance; just at any other internal hub.
Spent fortune in Alfine DI2, even the Shimano shop cannot get it to work, crap info on the web, it's like some sort of secret society. This is my first foray away from Campag, never again.
Yes I agree, Shimano should sell a full kit to go with the hub...with a detailed explanation of installation and set up. I have had three mechanical versions, the second and current version is superior to the first but it lasted only 4,000miles before second gear gave up. I bought new internals and fitted it to the old hub and it is excellent and still not leaking any oil whatsoever but I have been completely been discouraged to try the Di2 version.
I agree that the inept cable connection is an issue Shimano should fix... But the Oil leak - did it never occur to you, that you should just go ahead and change the seal, especially if it dangerously soups up your disk breaks? Not to mention any transmission you leave without fixing an oil leak is a transmission you want to fail... That leaves the question if you actually know enough about transmissions to make a review about them or if you work for the competition. The only two reasonable explanations I can think of...
Sometimes I am simply left astounded by how something with so much complex engineering could possibly fail at such a simple and dead easy function as a common connection. Come on Shimano, just use a simple headphone standard and some rubber seals. A child could come up with a better design.
A headphone jack? Omg, man... One of the most unreliable connectors even in it's intended use. This is a harsh environment. There are a lot of proper industrual connectors with various IP ratings and locking systems. No need to invent. They are not cheap, but these gearboxes aren't either, a proper connector's price should fit in.
Cleaning the plug and socket would seem easy to do : just blast it with standard WD spray ; it won't interfere with the electrical connection ; you don't even need to dry it before plugging; and the residue of the WD will help the plug and socket to stay cleaner.
The DI2-problem with the cable is sad. Is the mechanical one better? 10'000 kilometers or 15'000 kilometers are nothing. SHIMANO Altus derailleur shifting does the double and triple distance and is not dead yet. Of course pullies, chain, chainring, cassette were replaced. Derailleur shifting offers many different cassettes, for example 11-32 t. or 11-46 t. And this can be combined with a crankset 44/32/22 teeth. SHIMANO has cheap and good derailleur shifting parts. Plus there are other suppliers. Many derailleurs can be also found used. That gear hub shifting is way easier, it's a myth. Gear hubs like SHIMANO Alfine are fine for mostly flat grounds, not really mountains. Rohloff is the best choice for gear hubs.
I have a Nexus 8 C6001-8D. Even if i had bought the Alfine 11 i would have gone with the mechanical shifter. It is way easier to do maintenance and if it brakes its just 10 bucks for a replacement. No need for flimsy electronic shifting and expensive repairs
thanks very much for your share. i mean...i am about to invest in a A11 di2 myself...because i want to get a belt drive in....but this looks very threatening.. i am left thinking if the hub will sustain bu bunny hops & street gaps, and an occasional MTB ride..on my full suspension XC bike. what do you reckon ?
I've been looking at this combo for a potential new setup. Now you've had it for a few months what's the answer? Has the cable connector issue been addressed?
@@paulsslightlyactivelife i haven't had any issues but am running tubeless so haven't had to remove and disconnect the motor at all since it was fitted. Very pleased I don't have to mess about with constant shifter alignment issues or sticky cables as I was on the cable Alfine 8.
I'm coming into this conversation a few years late, but I'm wondering two things: 1) was the Shimano removal tool used to connect and disconnect these wires? They're not supposed to be removed by hand. 2) could a waterproof quick disconnect plug be soldered into the di2 wire to enable easier removal of the rear wheel?
@@simonchetwynd Cool!! Could you post a picture of the waterproof connect you used? I'm converting my Scott Sub 10 to Alfine 11 di2 right now, and would love to learn from your development.
@@VitaminDJ-qt7cj Use the shortest EW-SD50 electric wire from the motor hub to the Di2 Junction EW-JC200. As already mentioned by someone previously, when the motor needs disconnecting, unplug it at the junction. In this way, when the plug wears out, only the cable and/or junction need to be replaced. ;-)
You have to splice-in a military-spec wagerproof two-prong connector. Shimano can certainly do much better on this - fatal flaw they should be embarrassed about!
you should change the title - " HOW TO CLEAN A BIKE?" peace to all yo! actually with that kind of situation Alfine is a remarkable product that i would consider buying...
CLEAN YOUR BIKE, SHIMANO DOES'NT SPONSOR PIG STY RACING. That amount of filth would be an extra charge for cleaning BEFORE even update. You dont use a different connector. ITS E-TUBE. HOYVE!!!
Why the heck would anyone design a terrible system like this, obviously the wheel and tire need to come off if you get a flat tire. The system itself is brilliant, but someone dropped the ball big time!
If you can afford it, Rohloff is the way to go, especially if you're gonna use it for touring or heavy use. For light commuting I think Alfine will do if you take care of it.
concur with everyone else. If your bike gets that dirty in just a week, you need to be cleaning it daily, most likely. Also, if the connector gets dirty when you disconnect it, then clean it before you disconnect it! It seems like you're fighting common sense here...
True, but bikes don't NEED gears or pneumatic tyres (or any tyres!) either. You could simply ride around on a wooden hobby horse or Penny Farthing. However, if you're interested in progress and things that add to your comfort and ease of use (or have ever ridden a bike with a slick and accurate Di2 gearchange), you'd appreciate why some bikes have electronics. I love simplicity too and like the reliability of cable gears and cable-operated brakes, but if you've ridden a well set-up lightweight bike with hydraulic brakes, soft, puncture-resistant tyres and Di2 electronic shifting, you'll appreciate the positive difference progress and electronics CAN make when done well.
