I just finished installing a BBS02 on my 2008 Trek 6000. I then wrote a review of it which I am going to share with you fine ladies and gentlemen. *Subject:* Most excellent, except... *Msg Body:* Overall, I am quite happy. The system works and works well. Installation is not nearly as easy as they make it look in the video, but it never is. I do find the following annoying though: 1) No PDF installation manual. I was working in an area with no internet access, so I basically had to memorize the video, then go out and work on the bike. Needless to say, mistakes were made. 2) A part substitution was made in the package that I received such that the screw than held the speed sensor magnet in place had a security Torx head. Most people have never even heard of a security Torx, let alone have one it there tool kit. This necessitated a trip to the hardware store. 3) All of the electrical wires come out of the bottom of the motor, this makes then easily susceptible to damage if you actually take your bike off road. 4) I would have preferred a metal chain guard.
I prefer Torx heads. I thought the same thing about the wiring harness coming out of the controller that's attached to the motor so I encase the entire thing in glued heavy-duty heat-shrink tubing and brought the speed sensor out where necessary, then the interface wiring and right op the power wires into a triangle bag. over 17K miles in 3 years with no issues... and I do ride off-road about 60% of the time. You should have got the BBSHD it's a way better motor. photos.app.goo.gl/dyw1JUWQSNjj8Cvy9
@@brianbassett4379 I have no problem with regular Torx, but security Torx are a PITA. As for getting the BBS02 instead of the BBSHD, well, for some people cost is an issue. Thank you for posting the pics. I really like that setup with the IGH. I still need to re-order or replace my rear cassette in order to get my chain line straight.
@@thekinginyellow1744 I bet that is a problem. With a Speed-hub you can dial it in perfect. I go through chains more often than I thought but aren't showing any wear in the gears, Stay safe.
@@max4557 it took about 3 hours. A week later I installed the shift sensor which was about an hour. I watched a couple of videos first and it was no problem. I'm over 250 miles now! My top speed is 38 mph.😎
@@max4557 So bikes are all very different. In my case, I have a 21 speed. That means 7 gears on the rear wheel, and three different size drive gears on the pedals. 3 x 7 = 21. Replacing the pedal gear with the BBSHD you will lose the multi-gear setup as it only has one gear. So now, I have a 7 speed powered bike. You still use the same chain and rear gear setup. It turns out for my normal casual riding, I only used the middle front gear anyway and used the bike as a 7 speed. My typical speed before the BBSHD was around 12mph. I was able to hit 20mph briefly. Now, I ride at around 16mph to 20mph on average and as I stated, have had it up to 38mph. I don't need to go above 25mph the majority of the time but having that speed available also means it has good torque. You can still shift your rear gears but you'll find you won't do that much. I ride in 6th gear most of the time and 7th when out on a long flat surface.
Very nice general installation. It may be beyond the scope of this video, but it will help many if one goes into the tricks of the installation. Getting the bottom bracket correctly shimmed with washers and spacers is vital. I think wire management is an extra plus. Thanks
So I got it all together, installed, & working. Removing the bottom bracket from my bike was by far the hardest part. Reinstalling the chain and the gear shifters was a pain, the video doesn't provide much detail on that. Other than that, pretty alright video. I am definitely satisfied with the kit after installation.
That was a nicely done video, thanks. But for your future information, there is normally no reason to break the chain as the front derailleur nearly always has a simple screw holding it closed and can be easily opened. It is also does not need removing and can help as a guide for the chain by leaving it there. The other point is that you went to the trouble of removing the bolt on the front V brake instead of just releasing the noodle as you normally would.
Couple things I wanted to point out. Some crank arms are held on with Hex bolts rather than Allen head bolts. In those cases it's almost always a 14mm. Also DO NOT over tighten that Outer Black Locknut/Beauty ring. It has very thin Aluminum threads and you will strip the threads on it if you crank on it. Only needs to be snugged tight enough to keep the main lock ring behind it from backing off.
Properly explained. One detail though. At 4:15, I would have fit the motor as close as possible to the frame because the rotation of the motor is going to that direction. I've seen some people using a piece of mid soft plastic to make some clearance for the gear shift cable.
I have a BBSHD with the Ludicrous controller from Luna Cycles. Pushing around 3k watt on a stretch cruiser (see pic as avatar). With 8 spd IGH from Sturmey it gets around 50mph. Highly recommend the Bafang motors, but would only recommend buying from Luna. They are N Americas #1 seller, and have some "upgrades" nobody else sells. Love mine.
Nice video. I wish mine was going together that easily. Most of it did, but the battery mount on mine can't work like it does in this video. My water bottle cage mounts are so low on the triangle that the only way to fit the battery in there while the slide mount is screwed to those cage mount holes is to mount it upside down. And doing it that way means I have to insert the battery upside down and then slide it up, rather than down. But even then, I can't quite get the battery to slide all the way on. It hits the top bar of the triangle about 1/4" short of sliding all the way on. I suspect the power contacts won't fully connect this way. I am going to have to fabricate something to make it so I can mount the battery normally. Not quite sure what that's going to look like yet.
Thank you Ebike Essential this really helped me install my bafang motor 👍 I have one issue with my install and that's the 8mm allen screw that is fitted on the pedal crank arm. Everytime i ride the bike that screw unscrews itself and the crank arm gets loose. Have you ever experienced that and what's the solution to fix it.
Looks very easy but of course it is not. What I was still in the dark about was... what happens to the pre-existing nice Shimano gears? He replaces the front one, but what about rear gears 7-9 of the little gear wheels. What happens to those? And how are we supposed to use those gears with the motorized version? And how about tying up the loose wires all over the place? This left a lot unanswered. Shame.
3:15 your bike has that cable that goes to the back wheel just like my bike. I see that's not a problem, the motor has a little room to spare between it and the bike frame, right ? So no problems installing ?
What you do with the front deraileur and cable if removed? Cable tied to frame?No need to remove and break chain? Will it cause friction with motor?. My new ibiky rampage fat tire looks like its integrated hard to remove deraileur and also bought plastic guide I may not need.
Hello, thank you for your video. I am wondering about the adaptability of this engine with my bike. I have a distance of 78mm and not 73mm of length of tube in which to insert the bottom bracket mark. Can you tell me if I have to take a 90mm bafang motor or if the 73mm will be fine? Thanks in advance, Jean-Louis
Just finished installation on recumbent trike. All good except for throttle. Female connector on throttle cable and female connectors on motor cables. Bought male to male cable , connected, not working. Suggestions ??
All sounds great but. ........And it's a big but. The Bafang motor will probably need force and probably a lump hammer sort of force to fit into the crank case. My kit had wires that were far too long for my bike and it was difficult to arrange them neatly. Also as there is no standardisation in the world of motors and batteries they will probably need entirely new fittings to get them to join together which was a real pain. That all said, it's worth the effort as the bike is simply fantastic to ride. Particularly when you have hills wherever you look.The 750w motor makes mincemeat of any hill. And I get 30 miles plus with my 13ah battery. It'll transform your cycling.
@@mjremy2605 Mine is 48V and it works well. I've now done almost 2000 miles on the bike and the battery still gives me the same mileage as at the beginning
Can you make a video on adding two 48v/21ah batteries to a Foxbat 1000w motor? Parallel attachments also and area mounting perhaps. I have two batteries now and want to utilize both at the same time. thanks
Nice tutorial, I just do not care for the speed sensor attachment, appears shady if it were just bumped. Hose clamps would appear more secure and stable.
So I've got a 750w with a 48v battery pack and I've done 4,100kms on it over 3.5 years...mtn bike with knob tyres. The battery is starting to lose charge fairly quickly now and it'll drain to 50% after 10 to 15km. The last 1000km I've been using throttle mainly because i damaged the display/ mode button with water washing the bike and i can only get mode 1 or 2 assist... hence the throttle. My question is have i had a good run on the battery with the life of this bike or should have expected more? The battery is still getting me around but yeah charging it again at maybe 40-30% after 10kms now... so looking at a new battery soon anyway and... will the motor give me a lot more life... going to get a new display to try and resolve my throttle only issue as well. Feedback would be appreciated.
Can you tell me the length of the cables? I'm planning to install the system on the rear BB in a tandem bike and I'm worried the cables might be to short. If needed, there is a way to extend the cables with some basic electronic skills?
Can’t quite figure out why there was a need to completely unlink the chain. Maybe it’s a bike specific thing, but this is the only video I’ve seen that does it.
Does it matter where on the wheel you place the magnet for the speed sensor? From my thinking, depending on where you place the sensor, will affect the speed that the sensor will pick up.
The speed sensor is just counting the interval between passes of the magnet. That number will be the same wherever you mount it. I'm assuming that you need to tell the display the size of the wheel so it can calculate your speed. You should mount it as close to the hub as possible to reduce the centrifugal force on the magnet that is trying to throw it into space!
@@thekinginyellow1744 even if you tell the display the size of the wheel, the closer you put the magnet to the hub, the faster the magnet will pass the sensor and therefore the faster the reading. so where is the best place for the sensor?
@@thekinginyellow1744 thank you for your information, but you seen not to understand that a speed sensor is used to measure the rpm, which is then in turn used to calculate the speed of a vehicle, in this case the bicycle. This is also how your car's speedometer works, but a car's drive shaft is the same diameter and has a known radius from the central point, so a calculation of speed is possible.
@@omishkim actually I understand exactly that, which is why the placement of sensor is irrelevent. regardless of where it is place, it will count the same number of rpm, because all components of the wheel have exactly the same angular velocity.
I don't have a water bottle holder. Does this mean that I have to drill holes into the frame to hold the battery mount? I can do that but I'd rather not, doesn't the battery mount come with optional straps or some other non-invasive fix?
I have a bike rack on the back of my bicycle and that's for my battery.but if you're really desperate I suppose you can wear a backpack and carry the battery in there
Is there any one that I could speak with regarding installation of kit? Why is this so completely impossible? What has our country become? You can't talk with anyone when you have questions.
John Buying Right. But the video only showed how to remove the brake cable from the original brake lever. It didn't show how to remove the gear shifting cable so that you can add it to the new shifter.
Good video , but this kit needs motor mounts 1-2 inch longer so motor is NOT at a down angle reducing clearance from underneath this happens on MOST bikes.
I have had issues with this motor coming loose after tightting it with the correct torque and additionally applying Loctite to the grey Locknut. Raised ridges are facing the bicycle and are bitting into the frame but after some time the motor comes loose. It's a very annoying problem I have that prevents me from enjoying an otherwise great kit! Any suggestions people?
Someone has a fix for this. You put one worm drive ring on the motor and link it into another one that goes round the down tube. If you look at videos for troubleshooting the bafang you should find out in pictures!
it all comes down to the bottom bracket. these fit on standard 'BSA' bottom brackets that are 86-73mm wide, which covers most of them. not finding that bike's specs on google, though, so I couldn't tell you if that specific model fits or not (you might be able to find out by looking at the branding of your existing cranks)
Excellente vidéo. Gros plans sur les opérations délicates à effectuer. Je suis français et ne parle pas l'Anglais mais tellement explicite que les mots sont secondaires. Merci beaucoup.
I just feels that way. Had to go for a help of a local bike repair store. For $10 they helped me to remove this damned bottom bracket. Which one apparently got stuck so hard I couldn't move it at all.
@@senchi3836 The difference between you and him is that you will try and then get the assistance you need... he won't even try. So you needed help with the BB and had to pay 10 whole dollars, big deal. If you get the right tools you can easily mount a BaFang mid-drive on your bike. IF you do need help, ya get it, and from then on you will be able to do it yourself. Stay safe.
@@brianbassett4379 to be be fair, the OP might have a press-fit BB, and those are a right pain even with the right equipment if my understanding is correct. BSA-style brackets? well it makes good sense to think ahead and order the tools along with the motor, but it is doable.
This tutorial failed to mention some basic things that a beginner could make such as installing the chainring the wrong way which would cause the bike chain to derail, also the crank arms are labeled as right and left, if you break open a chain you should use a master link instead of putting the pin back in
question is it waterproof like can i wash it ? or do i have to take all of it off and would it be better to buy a shitty bike rather than use my only good bike?
@Frank Blackcrow EU for on road is 250W motor and no assistance above 15.5 MPH. If you are going off-road however, you can do as you wish I think. In the US I believe they're allowed 750W motors and 20 MPH. But it probably varies by state over there.
It's a bit unrealistic how everything just comes apart from the bike so easily like it's all already loose. In reality everything is pretty solid, especially the bottom bracket and crank removal, as parts have bound together over time and use. The adverts telling you it only takes two hours?.... yeah right, to do it properly and neatly with maximum cable tidying, your looking at 4 to 5 hours, especially if you have to drill and insert new bolt holes into the frame depending on which battery you buy. Because of these issues, you'll find yourself buying more and more tools you just don't have. I convert peoples bikes as a paid service, and you wouldn't beleive the state of some of the bikes I'm given. I've had to use a heat gun on a bottom bracket before to get it to start unscrewing. New chains have to be bought, cable connection for battery and motor mostly dont match, some cheap derailleurs are not up to the task, and ALWAYS buy and fit a gear censor, without this, your drivetrain and chain will not last very long....just some of the unstated basics.
Some front derailleur cages do not come apart without breaking them(Like every Shimano Tourney series ever made). The only way to get it off is to break the chain. Honestly, I can break a chain with the tool and have it back together faster than removing the derailleur cage.
the method of breaking the chain that they do is not recommended by SRAM or Shimano. SRAM uses a master link and Shimano gives you a special pin to connect the chain. I would try to follow the manufacturers recommendation for high torque like this.
Just check on Aliexpress, a kit without battery cost 420€ shipped from Spain. www.aliexpress.com/item/33058307484.html You can buy the battery separately (any 48V battery of at least 12Ah should be ok, make sure it can handle more than 25AMPS of constant current).
and why did you remove the chain??????? you can take the front chain guide off most if not all bikes by removing a screw to separate it from the chain...otherwise great video
Dude, don't I need he electric bike controller connecting throttle lever, brake sensors, speed sensor and gear sensor ? Cool instructional video though :) Ride safe & have fun.
@@Thephonkgod Thanks for your replay. I Also learned that I don't need throttle lever nor gear sensor, I even can manage without brake sensors as long there's cadence sensor. ln short, if you stop pedaling the motor will disengage. Dos that make sense ? =)
@@Thephonkgod You are right, motors 750w & above will be necessary to have. My apologies I was thinking of 500w with disc brakescan be handled by a seasoned rider without extra sensors thus limiting the connecting wires mess+ dead weight 😉
