Yeah, so far i like it a lot, however if I were toy do it again i'd probably build it with an AHU or 1Z rather than the ALH. the ALH is a major pain to get to fit. Just be aware that the oil pan cant be clearanced in the front like the AHU and earlier diesels. the oil pump sits right above the front axle on the ALH so a lot of lift is needed to clear it, and the drag link hits the oil pan with the engine in the stock location. I have a build thread on bbs.zuwharrie.com in the diesel section if you want to see some more details.
@@CostasHoneyBees I'm in Utah, much less strict. I basically just have to meet the requirements for the 1987 samurai. More than likely if you get a full donor car and keep the EGR and stuff, it will pass. Its what I've heard from others in Cali. Probably best to talk to a emissions referee there to see what they would want to do. I also have heard that there were no diesel emissions tests before 1997, though I'm not not sure if that applies to California. If that's the case though, it would very much be worth it to go with an IDI or 1z TDI.
Looks really good. I have an ALH eTDI swapped CJ7. I did just buy an ARL shortblock and have a Landy 300 pump here at the house. How big of a pain was it to get it timed? Do you have a link or instructions for setting pump timing?
there are a few threads on tdiclub, but its pretty simple really. you need the dial indicator to thread into the plunger head to measure the lift and a bolt to lock the shaft through the side of the pump, I can't remember the exact size. but you pop the landrover hub off and there is a keyway on the shaft. that is not used, but it tells you which injector its pointing to. turn that to the #1 injector ramp (you will feel it start to roll up on it) , then measure about 1.45mm of lift and lock the shaft. align the ALH hub slot to the pin boss on the Landrover pump by eye. It just needs to be close enough to adjust it later. then unlock the shaft, install the pump, install the pulley loosely, install the timing belt, and set the crank to TDC. then, all you need to do is use your dial indicator to advence the pump to 1.45mm again, and tighten the bolts on the pulley. I'm just on my lunch break, I'll see if I can find a thread that explains this in more detail later tonight.
I just happend accross your build thread and saw there you made the port near the front of the head for the steam port. Have there been any issues with his? I've always wondered about putting one up front, and this seems to be a viable solution. Did you basically just draw an imaginary line from the rear port to the front of the engine, drill and tap?
There is a plug at the front of the head under the timing belt cover. The passage is drilled from both ends of the head. You can get a centerline off of that plug, then drill through to that passage. The head is about 3/16" thick. If you add a port to the front, the rear port can actually be plugged. The steel tube that is pressed in actually has the end crimped down to a 1mm hole. But I'd say its a very useful mod. I built the whole system to have the radiator cap as the highest point, and it is totally self bleeding. There is also no concern with hot spots in the head from air pockets now.
@@MonkeyWithAWrench I didn't wait and tested it out on my spare motor. Looks like I'll be doing this with the CJ once I redo the coolant lines. I'm guessing 1/8 NPT?
you only need switched power to the fuel solenoid on the pump. thats the only wire. If you get a marine fuel shutoff it will run with zero power. However, you do need an entirely different injection pump. The stock VW pump will not work without the factory sensors and computer.
I designed and fabricated them, though a company called tdconversions builds a couple plates that bolts to the engine to make fabricating them a bit easier.
