Thank you so much for the comprehensive and well-illustrated overview of the different options and assembly process! You're an MVG - most valuable Ghostbuster!
That was the best review I've seen yet! Now that mine has arrived I cannot tell if I'm going to stick with my original plan to make it a classic pack. I almost feel this pack wants to be an Afterlife by design. It changes my whole game plan because I was going to set boundaries on my collecting at 84-89 and now that's probably changed. Everything you said about the pack was spot on. Also, your advice on modifying it was really well said.
Thanks, Matt for showing us the differences between each frame. I'll be using a Rothco LC-1 for my pack once it arrives this weekend. However, I noticed that the frame sits higher on the Hasbro pack compared to my homemade 1:1 scale pack. The way I have the Rothco LC-1 frame attached to my homemade pack is that it sits lower, so that the pack can sit upright (leaning back on the bottom of the frame's "feet") on the floor without any other support - like a guitar stand.
I had bought an LC2 for mine and found the exact problems you discovered. I don't want to modify the frame for now and am just gonna put it back in storage and wait for someone to figure out a kit that will secure it to the pack. For now, I caved in and ordered a rothco frame. Also ordered a replacement V hook like Adam Savage replaced on his, since he said it felt more secure.
I flipped the top and bottom brackets for my Rothco frame, and shored it up underneath with a scrap rubber piece to keep it from moving at all. It holds the top away from the pack in a way that looks a lot closer to the right pack/frame distance. The shortest bracket (now the bottom on my setup) doesn't work at all, but it all seems pretty sturdy without it.
My LC-1 frame didn't fit correctly out of the box. The horizontal crossbar was just a smidge too high and blocked off the threads for the side-mounts. Just last night, I'd had enough, and got around the issue by punching a pair of new holes in the frame for the spacer screws, just 7mm above the holes that those screws are meant to go through. I'm very happy with the end result.
I bought a LC2 with vintage worn straps and kidney pad But on didnt realise it was badly bent ,so i bought an LC1 repro as the side frame has the 90° angle not the triangle Ive found the side brackets on the horizontal bar doesnt line up either ,i swapped the repro straps for the OG ones ,it looks and feels great ,but your video has made me realise that the bottoms of my straps should be coming out of the circular holes😂😂
I am installing an Alice frame on my hasbro proton pack. I was able to make many of the brackets fit and they’ve are tight. I order some rubber spacers from Amazon to fill the gaps and I am going to purchase some longer screws.
I have a Lc2,I have the tall bracket on top and the screws on the bottom. I going to go to a hardware store and buy longer bolts, some tubing to use as spacers and a set of small files to get bracketw over the vertical support. Then I'll attach the bottom two brackets.
Just bought an LC2 from a military surplus. They also had an LC1, but it had black straps instead of the olive green. Maybe I should go back and get the LC1
Funny thing is my LC-2 has the same problem as your original LC-1. My LC-2 is a very used, and I didn't have problems with the vertical brackets. From my understanding the Afterlife pack used a Rothco frame.
5:46 is where you need to start, those of you who were trying to see which Alice frame would be able to fit your Haslab pack. The RothCo frame itself fits, but you may want to modify the fit by getting yourself some Alice LC-1 shoulder straps. The Alice frame LC-1 and LC-2 will not fit unless you are willing to do modification to the frame or to your pack's motherboard.
Great video. It was very informative if helping me sort out what I want to do with mine. I am going to be working up some solutions for using an LC-2 (my own 30 yo Army pack frame) rather than buying a newer knockoff. My hope is to get that spacing between pack and frame from the original movies, though I am going to use the mounting point layout as designed by Haslab.
Also you don't need to slide the kidney pad over the frame. They made an additional groove infront of the groove you are using to mount it on the stand with an alice frame. But you can mount it like you did if you want :)
Great Video, thank you. I purchased an LC2 frame last year for this pack because i thought id like the straps/padding better... so im kinda determined to make it work. That said, instead of grinding down the LC2 frame where the brackets go, it might be easier to simply make new brackets... either by bending new ones from a straight bracket, OR just keep the bracket straight and use longer bolts to reach the holes in the pack. Hmmmm.... thanks again!
I was reading about the spacers on the screen used packs last night and today, there are spacers on the frame that lift it 1" all around (check on gbfans forum for the measurements), so without modding the pack or anything, just make spacers that will work.
I'm bummed about the genuine frames not fitting, as I purchased an LC-2 frame for this pack. I'm sure I can figure out a mounting solution, though. Perhaps an adapter or creating my own brackets to replace the Hasbro ones.
I bought the "Rothco" frame you recommended in a previous video, and I was able to use all of Hasbro's metal fittings on it without any problem. Not sure why yours didn't fit. Might be because of the neck pad. I don't have a neck pad yet.
I’m glad I found a bare Lc-1 frame because my Lc-2 frame will not fit. The mounting gear will not sit flush unless forced and I don’t want to bend or break my only mounting gear
The problem you're having with your LC-1 frame is the same issue I'm running into with the LC-1 I picked up at our "local" Army-Navy store. At this point I'm at a loss as to how to proceed...
If you want to 'plug' the slots left behind by the old straps and have a 3D printer, I designed push fit ones that are easily removable if needed. Search thingiverse for 'Haslab Proton Pack'.
Those screws on the bottom can be tightened with a screwdriver. If you are afraid that they may work themselves out, use some locktite. If I'm right, those are 1/4-20s and as Adam Savage's showed us, there are nuts on the back of the motherboard. You do not need any more than a nuts worth of threading on, just snug it up and one quick final half turn with a long screwdriver. Be careful to get the weaker of the two locktites, can't remember if it's red or blue. It'll make it easier/ possible to remove the screws.
@@TheProtonPackIsNotAToy I stand corrected on the bolt size. Most TV wall bracket hardware will have extra m6 and m8s in them, if you have that laying around. They'll already be black as well.
@@TheProtonPackIsNotAToy I was watching this while browsing and found some longer screws left over from my spirit build and managed to slowly work the middle bracket down on a vintage LC1. Just slow and steady. I think they are M8, lost the baggie though.
I think you may have done the Rotcho slightly incorrect. The central line is that the tallest clamp goes on the bottom, mid size goes in the middle and the shortest one goes on the top. You need all of them for structural rigidity. I wrapped all mine in black stretchy electrical tape before putting them on. Looks better and gives more contact patch for the vibration motor. See my videos here ru-vid.com/show-UC6gHWuzn0THVfeYvuCL9lzw
As someone commented, my neck padding threw off the alignment, so the smallest won’t fit. I’m not worried about lack of structural rigidity. In fact I’ll probably make it less stable soon with another mod.
For what it's worth, I was able to get two vertical and one side bracket on my genuine LC2 frame, connecting to my HasLab pack. The LC series frames had quite a bit of variance among individual samples! i.imgur.com/JVEgRB4.jpg
