The first thing i did when i bought my 04 was get rid of the rear freeze plug behind cylinder 6 and put in a bypass kit so that cylind 5 and 6 get much better coolant flow and with a heat gun now cylinder 5 and 6 are basically the same temp as the rest because i used the bypass so it flows better around the rear half.❤
Could i still use these on my stock truck? I know you said these are a necessity for people wanting to hot rod their diesels. I want something that will last me a good time.
No. Their proper name is core plug. Engine blocks and cylinder heads are cast iron or cast aluminum; molten medal poured into sand cast. When the metal cools the cast is broken up and sand within the internal passages is removed though these holes. After machining and further cleaning the core plugs are installed. The sole purpose of the plug is to cover the hole, the sole purpose of the hole is for removing sand from the casting process. If engine coolant freezes in your engine 1) Shame on you for not properly maintaining your engine. 2) If the only damage is a core plug pops out then call yourself lucky, it’s not designed to be a thermal fuse and it’s not uncommon for blocks to fracture before popping a core plug.
@@specializ20 i get that but they were also talking about higher hp increasing the coolant temps and so on. Like is there a pretty common power rating where factory no longer will cut it?
We've seen freeze plugs pop on bone stock trucks from time to time, but usually they are 400 rwhp before they pop one. But it is very common on 500+ HP trucks to pop freeze plugs if they are not upgraded.
@@pddofficial so basically my efi live on tune 5 I need to look into doing me some freeze plugs. Thanks for the info. How big of a pain are they to do in the truck? I've done a few plugs on a 6.5l on a engine stand but never in the truck. That rear one looks near impossible.
Dam homies I forgot that you guys had those I forgot to get some in my order I'm gonna have to call joshy back joshy is good to talk to I'm gonna call back
That works somewhat for race trucks, but it is a terrible idea for street trucks that need all the cooling they can get, not a great option for street trucks period.
Power Driven Diesel from personal experience and over 500,000 combined miles on 2 different 53 block cummins engines, water temperature was decreased dues to slower moving water in radiator and through the block as well as dropping water pressure in half. This saves the 53 block from cracking and takes stress off head gasket as well. I have tones of data on this and the proof is in the pudding. At 2k rpm the stock water pump makes 60psi at the back of the block, which is insane considering freeze plugs are pressed in. Clipping the pump mildly drops the pressure and slows the flow of coolant. Daily drivers as well as hot rods can increase longevity with this. Your billet freeze plugs are the best I’ve don’t get me wrong and I will buy a set for my spare engine build, but it will also have a clipped pump.
Yes, and they all suck! Literally seen tons of guys try them and we've never seen one survive much more than 500 street miles.... that's one or two tanks of fuel depending on your driving style...
Technically it is not classified as a positive displacement pump, but clipping the water fins reduces blown freeze plugs.... so at high rpm, it acts similar to a positive displacement pump.
