All about soil, footings, and codes for residential building | Building Better Homes 

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 you’ve never met good contractor then

David Briot ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-prygJuhvn9Q.html does your bell end look like this?

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You might be able to get away with a jack and shimming it. If it continues to sink, then replace it.

Good Question. When it's slightly damp seems it gives a lot easier.

I was waiting for someone to mention that. The new pressure treated wood, even ground contact, won't last as long as the old stuff. EPA strikes again..

Whats with the emoji. Why u flirting????? ;)

Tributary area can be a bit tricky. And it always depends on the type of build drop beam deck vs flush beam(header) deck. With overhang or not, with cantilever or not, wood species, soil capacity, and live and dead loads. Since I don't know your conditions, the best thing you can do is check out the DCA 6. The DCA 6 has a ton of great info for calculating your tributary area based on size, load, soil bearing capacity, footing type, special conditions, species of lumber, etc. And will help you determine spans, posts, beam details, and footings.... Also a great guide for general knowledge and staying up to date on do's and don'ts Hope this helps! 🍻

Far as I know, sketch out your plan on graph paper or use an editing program with the grid lines set up along 1' x 1' squares. Tribs will be either from one wall to 1/2 way to nearest support, or in a deck with cantilever, from edge of deck/cantilever, across first and in the middle between first and second pier. This is a simple vid ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g0otb1kzsXU.html

Call the contractor who "built" the deck!

matt mag I wish I could. This was probably done 10-12 years. I am not sure if I still have the guys number.

@@rolly5457 oh i see. A bandaid would be to temp. jack the deck up and pour on top of footings or lengthen the posts. By the sound of it though you need a better base. Bigger/deeper footings.

matt mag would it be possible to jack up the deck then just try to deepen the base and fill the hole with concrete with the post embedded in the concrete

@@rolly5457 in my opinion, no. The concrete needs retention as in side walls of dirt and i just cant see how you could do that. Another bandaid option would be to shim the posts some how. Support deck, cut connection, jack deck, fasten again (or shim depending on how post/beam is connected) That is only if the settling has stopped. If the settling is consistent year to year then I'm going to say you'll need new, better footings. Even if they're in a different spot than the original.

In our area the inspectors are a third party company. Safe to categorize them as contractors as they are legally responsible instead of the township. Not really city officials. I accept ‘gift’ that save me $60 online

It’s a stick

And the dirt there is hard as a rock anyways. Yet in southern NC it's all sand.

All of the states, cities, and counties have a different requirement. And municipalities also have different requirements. Homeowners associations even differ. Your best bet is to run over to your county inspectors office or planning and permits office and pick up all of the codes you need. In order to receive a permit You'll need an actual blueprint style plan for your build, drawn to scale, and it will need to be approved. Don't forget to have utilities marked. And in some places, you'll need a survey done to make sure you're not crossing the property line distance requirements, or any easements. This goes for anything considered to be a "permanent" structure. Even a concrete sidewalk. Or a small shed that cannot be easily moved. Just a suggestion.....We overbuild everything just a tad, it helps me sleep at night as the Owner. So I do recommend you really pay attention to the codes and one up that just a hair. If you build consistently better than your local requirements, you will eventually get to a point where pre inspections are unnecessary for your certificate of occupancy. Sometimes we have a final inspection on something like a deck build, but it's rare now with our relationships with inspectors. Things go so much faster and no downtime waiting for the inspector So you can pour footings. Type in your area/county/etc and building codes (R507 for residential decks) and you should be able to find your local adopted codes. We have towns outside the city limits here in different counties that are still running off of old code. 2002 irc at a home we're at now. Do not build to 2002 code! Lol! The best thing you can do IMHO is download the DCA 6 and build off of that. Read and memorize it. Print it off if you need a refresher. If you build off of DCA 6 you should have no issues. I hope this helps! Good luck to ya! 🍻

So true about having a great relationship with the inspectors . Was getting a new service put in 2 houses side by side . The inspector came and Ok'd the jobs before the jobs were done . Even the hydro boys were able to put in the new cables before the job was done . When a contractor has a reputation of doing better than code work the inspectors and the hydro boys know that so the job goes much faster for everyone . Having a good reputation just makes things go a lot faster .

@@henryrodgers3409 you got it 👍 It absolutely does. When you and your company strive to be the absolute best in the business, as opposed to how much money can we make off of this job or how fast can we knock it out, the rest follows suit. Quality, and reputation is everything in this business! Codes are getting tight, and people are getting more educated on efficiency and good building practices. Take care 👍🍻